malaysia, singapore & brunei 14 - preview · 2019-06-25 · stamps by taking the overland and...

Simon Richmond, Brett Atkinson, Lindsay Brown, Austin Bush, Ria de Jong,

Damian Harper, Anita Isalska, Anna Kaminski

Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei

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Langkawi,Kedah

& Perlis(p193)

Pahang &Tioman Island(p254)

Perak(p127)

BruneiDarussalam

(p470)

Sarawak(p394)

Penang(p160)

Sabah(p316)

Selangor & NegeriSembilan (p108) Johor (p239)

Melaka(p217)

Peninsular Malaysia'sNortheast(p284)

Kuala Lumpur(p56)

Singapore(p490)

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Welcome to Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei . . . . . .6Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei Maps . . . . . . . . . .8Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei’s Top 21 . . . . . . .10Need to Know . . . . . . . . . 20First Time . . . . . . . . . . . . 22What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . 24If You Like… . . . . . . . . . . . 25Month by Month . . . . . . . 28Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 30Outdoor Adventures . . . . 36Eat & Drink Like a Local . . .44Regions at a Glance . . . . .51

KUALA LUMPUR . . . . 56

SELANGOR & NEGERI SEMBILAN . . . . . . . . 108Selangor . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110Batu Caves . . . . . . . . . . . . 110Forest Research Institute Malaysia . . . . . . . .111Genting Highlands . . . . . . .111Bukit Fraser . . . . . . . . . . . . 112Putrajaya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115Petaling Jaya & Shah Alam . . . . . . . . . . . .117

Klang & Pelabuhan Klang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118Kuala Selangor . . . . . . . . . 120Negeri Sembilan . . . . . . .121Seremban . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121Kuala Pilah . . . . . . . . . . . . 123Sri Menanti . . . . . . . . . . . . 124Port Dickson . . . . . . . . . . . 125

PERAK . . . . . . . . . . . .127Ipoh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129Gopeng & Around . . . . . . . 136Cameron Highlands . . . . . 138Pulau Pangkor . . . . . . . . . 145

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Contents

Kuala Kangsar . . . . . . . . . . 150Taiping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153Kuala Sepetang . . . . . . . . 157Belum-Temenggor Rainforest . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158

PENANG . . . . . . . . . . 160George Town . . . . . . . . . 162Greater Penang . . . . . . . 185Air Itam & Penang Hill . . . 185Batu Ferringhi . . . . . . . . . . 186Teluk Bahang & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188Balik Pulau & Kampung Pulau Betong . . . . . . . . . . 190

Southeast Penang Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192

LANGKAWI, KEDAH & PERLIS . . . . . . . . . 193Kedah . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194Pulau Langkawi . . . . . . . . 195Alor Setar . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211Around Alor Setar . . . . . . 214Kuala Kedah . . . . . . . . . . . 214Perlis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215Kangar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215Around Kangar . . . . . . . . . 216

MELAKA . . . . . . . . . . .217Melaka City . . . . . . . . . . . . 219Ayer Keroh . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237Alor Gajah . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238

JOHOR . . . . . . . . . . . 239Johor Bahru . . . . . . . . . . .240Muar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246Mersing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248Seribuat Archipelago . . . .250Endau-Rompin National Park . . . . . . . . . . 252

PAHANG & TIOMAN ISLAND . . 254Pulau Tioman . . . . . . . . 255The Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . 264Tanjung Gemok . . . . . . . . .264Pekan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .264Kuantan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265Cherating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270The Interior . . . . . . . . . . 273Temerloh & Around . . . . . 273Jerantut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274

Taman Negara . . . . . . . . . . 276Kuala Lipis . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281Raub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282

PENINSULAR MALAYSIA’S NORTHEAST . . . . . . 284Kelantan . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285Kota Bharu . . . . . . . . . . . . 285Around Kota Bharu . . . . . 293Terengganu . . . . . . . . . . 295Pulau Perhentian . . . . . . . 295Pulau Redang . . . . . . . . . .303Pulau Kapas . . . . . . . . . . .306Kuala Terengganu . . . . . . . 307North of Kuala Terengganu . . . . . . . . . . . . 314South of Kuala Terengganu . . . . . . . . . . . . 315

SABAH . . . . . . . . . . . 316Kota Kinabalu . . . . . . . . 318Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park . . . . . . . . 332Pulau Manukan . . . . . . . . . 332Pulau Mamutik . . . . . . . . . 332Pulau Sapi . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333Pulau Gaya . . . . . . . . . . . . 333Pulau Sulug . . . . . . . . . . . . 334Northwestern Sabah . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334Mt Kinabalu & Kinabalu National Park . . . . . . . . . . 334Around Mt Kinabalu . . . . . 342Northwest Coast . . . . . . . 343Island Getaways . . . . . . . .346Eastern Sabah . . . . . . . . 348Sandakan . . . . . . . . . . . . . .348Sepilok . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 354

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Sandakan Archipelago . . . . . . . . . . . . 358Deramakot Forest Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 359Sungai Kinabatangan . . .360Lahad Datu . . . . . . . . . . . . 365Danum Valley Conservation Area . . . . . . 367Tabin Wildlife Reserve . . . 369Semporna . . . . . . . . . . . . . 370Semporna Archipelago . . . . . . . . . . . . 371Tawau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 378Tawau Hills Park . . . . . . . . 381Maliau Basin Conservation Area . . . . . . 382Southwestern Sabah . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 384Interior Sabah . . . . . . . . . .384Beaufort Division . . . . . . . 387Pulau Tiga National Park . . . . . . . . . . 389Pulau Labuan . . . . . . . . . .390

SARAWAK . . . . . . . . 394Kuching . . . . . . . . . . . . . 395Western Sarawak . . . . . 415Bako National Park . . . . . 416Santubong Peninsula . . . 419Semenggoh Wildlife Centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 422Annah Rais Longhouse . . . . . . . . . . . . . 422Kubah National Park . . . . 423Bau & Around . . . . . . . . . . 425Lundu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .426Gunung Gading National Park . . . . . . . . . . 427Tanjung Datu National Park . . . . . . . . . .429

Talang-Satang National Park . . . . . . . . . .430Batang Ai Region . . . . . . . 431Central Sarawak . . . . . . 432Sibu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 432Batang Rejang . . . . . . . . .436Bintulu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .440Similajau National Park . . . . . . . . . .443Niah National Park . . . . . .445Lambir Hills National Park . . . . . . . . . . 447Miri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .448Northeastern Sarawak . . . . . . . . . . . . . 455Gunung Mulu National Park . . . . . . . . . . 455Kelabit Highlands . . . . . . . 461Limbang Division . . . . . . .468

BRUNEI DARUSSALAM . . . . 470Bandar Seri Begawan . . . . . . . . . . . . . 472Tutong & Belait Districts . . . . . . . . . . . . . 484Tutong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .484Jalan Labi . . . . . . . . . . . . .484Seria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .485Temburong District . . . 485Bangar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .486Batang Duri . . . . . . . . . . . . 487Ulu Temburong National Park . . . . . . . . . . 487Brunei Survival Guide . . . . . . . . 488

SINGAPORE . . . . . . 490Singapore Survival Guide . . . . . . . . 559

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Contents

Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei Today . . . . . . . 566

History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 569

People, Culture & Politics . . . . . . . . . . . . 580

Religion . . . . . . . . . . . . . 586

Arts, Architecture & Media . . . . . . . . . . . . . 590

Environment . . . . . . . . . 596

Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 602

Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 610

Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .615

Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 620

Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 629

Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 638STILT HUTS, TAWAU P378

SURVIVAL GUIDE

UNDERSTAND

SPECIAL FEATURESOutdoor Adventures . . . 36Eat & Drink Like a Local . . . . . . . . . . . 44

Regional Specialties . . . 83

The Mega-Diversity Region . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 523

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Essential Malaysia & Singapore

This itinerary cherry picks the best of the two countries with a focus on urban adven-tures but also with the chance to experience the region’s amazing biodiversity.

Spend your first three days in Malaysia’s capital Kuala Lumpur (KL) where you can explore cultural diversity in Chinatown, marvel at the soaring steel-clad Petronas Towers and discover the treasures of the Islamic Arts Museum.

Next head inland to Taman Negara. Even on a two-day visit to this magnificent national park you can clamber across the canopy walkway and do some short jungle hikes. Return to KL and hop on a flight to Penang where three days will give you a good taste of the heritage districts of George Town and other island highlights such as Kek Lok Si Temple.

Historic Melaka, another Unesco World Heritage Site, deserves a couple of nights but visit midweek to avoid the crowds. Then head across the causeway to Singapore where you can spend your final four days enjoying everything from maxing out your credit card at glitzy shopping malls and sampling delicious hawker food to visiting the eye-boggling space age architecture of Marina Bay and the excellent zoo and night safari.

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Starting on the Peninsula and finishing in the wilds of Borneo, this itinerary includes classic sights, some off-the-beaten-track gems and time to relax and take it all in.

Schedule a week in Kuala Lumpur and surrounds for sightseeing and acclimatisation. Day trips could include Batu Caves and Putrajaya, a showcase of modern Malaysian archi-tecture. The sleepy old royal capital of Kuala Selangor, near to which you can observe the dazzling natural display of fireflies, is also only a couple of hours’ drive from KL.

After a pit stop in Ipoh, which has some great colonial-era architecture and places to eat, your second week is spent in the cooler climate of the Cameron Highlands where you can take walks past verdant tea plantations. Return to the coast and hop across to Pulau Pangkor.

The urban delights of George Town, on Penang are up next; the city’s Unesco World Heritage district is packed with colourful, fascinating sights. This large island is also Malaysia’s number one food destination. A quick flight away are the resorts, gorgeous beaches and jungle hinterlands of Pulau Langkawi.

Into week four and it’s time to cross the mountainous spine of the peninsula to Kota Bharu, a great place to encounter traditional Malay culture. Island- and beach-hop down the east coast, pausing at Pulau Perhentian, Cherating and Pulau Tioman. Kenong Rimba State Park offers jungle adventures without the crowds.

Singapore can easily swallow up a week of shopping, museum viewing and world-class eating. From here you can fly to Kuching in Sarawak, a good base for a longhouse excursion or for arranging a trek in Gunung Mulu National Park. Rack up the visa stamps by taking the overland and river route from Sarawak to Sabah via Brunei stop-ping in the capital Bandar Seri Begawan.

Having made it to Kota Kinabalu, relax for a few days dipping into the art scene of Sabah’s capital or heading to the nearby islands of the Tunku Abdul Rahman Nation-al Park. Your final challenge, should you choose to accept it, is to climb Mt Kinabalu. Alternatively, it’s difficult to resist the chance to eyeball close up the supercute ginger apes at Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre.

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On this grand tour of Borneo tackle the island’s top five treks and enjoy some world-class diving and snorkelling plus encounters with endangered wildlife.

From Kuching explore the local long-houses and Bako National Park. Fly to Miri, which is the base for trips to the im-pressive Niah National Park and Bario in the vine-draped Kelabit Highlands.

Travel overland to Bandar Seri Bega-wan, Brunei’s capital. Also schedule in the sultanate’s Ulu Temburong National Park, a pristine sliver of primary rainforest.

Chill out in Kota Kinabalu before set-ting off for Mt Kinabalu. Catch some ape love at the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabili-tation Centre, followed by a layover in historic Sandakan. The mighty Sungai Kinabat angan offers wildlife enthusiasts plenty of photo fodder. If you’ve got the time (and the dime), head deep into Sa-bah’s green interior for a trek through the Danum Valley Conservation Area. The magnificent dive sites of the Semporna Archipelago accessed from Semporna provide an ideal climax.

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This abridged itinerary for the time- challenged offers a sample of the best of Malaysian Borneo, including top national parks, snaking rivers and time spent lounging on longhouse verandahs.

Start in Kota Kinabalu (KK), which encapsulates Southeast Asian city life on a manageable scale and where you’ll be obliged to spend a day or two sorting permits to tackle Sabah’s star attraction, Mt Kinabalu. Consider a day-trip cruise (including buffet dinner) down one of the tea-brown rivers in the Beaufort Divi-sion, or learn a little about the local cul-ture at the Mari Mari Cultural Village.

Leapfrog by plane from KK to Miri and then on to Gunung Mulu National Park, home to the world’s largest caves, and several challenging jungle treks, includ-ing the marathon Headhunters Trail. Pass through Miri once more for a flight down to Kuching. Sarawak’s capital is a real charmer and will easily keep you occupied for several days. Break up your time in town with a visit to Semenggoh Wildlife Centre, Bako National Park and, if you have time, to a longhouse such as Annah Rais Longhouse.

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The southern end of Peninsular Malaysia is no slouch in offering up a diverse range of travel experiences, plus there’s easy access to and from Singapore, the logical start and finish to this trip.

Leave yourself several days to soak up the island state of Singapore’s manifold attractions. If you’re strapped for cash then Johor Bahru just across the causeway is a cheaper base. It’s a decent hangout, not least for street food and nearby Legoland.

The lethargic riverside town of Muar has a colonial-era district that’s worth a look, and can be used as a base for assaults on Gunung Ledang, Johor’s highest moun-tain, located within the Gunung Ledang National Park. Recover in Unesco World Heritage Site–listed Melaka where you can spend several days enjoying the endur-ing Portuguese and Dutch influence.

Explore the last remaining stands of lowland forest on the peninsula in Endau-Rompin National Park. Stunning Pulau Tioman is the epitome of an island para-dise. Alternatively, indulge in some island-hopping and diving around the 64 gems of the Seribuat Archipelago.

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Idyllic islands, Malay culture, rainforests and hill stations all feature on this tour around the north of Peninsular Malaysia.

Explore Kuala Lumpur for a few days before heading to the east-coast resort of Cherating. Move on to Kuala Tereng-ganu, with its pretty Chinatown and the Kompleks Muzium Negeri Terengganu.

Next come the classic Perhentian islands, accessed from Kuala Besut. Pulau Perhentian Besar tends to be less crowded and just as gorgeous as its more popular twin, Pulau Perhentian Kecil. Back on the mainland, linger a day or two in Kota Bharu, for its museums, cultural events and night market, then head to the remote Royal Belum State Park in northern Perak.

Access more Malay culture in Kedah’s capital Alor Setar before taking the ferry from Kuala Perlis to Pulau Langkawi for sunbathing, island-hopping and jun-gle exploration. Fly to George Town, the essential stop on Penang, then cool down in the hill station of Bukit Fraser (Fraser’s Hill) before returning to KL.

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SUMATRAINDONESIA

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Malaysia & Brunei: Off the Beaten Track

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Lined with flowers, trees this attractive village, reached by the Jungle railway, is an excellent exploration base of Kelantan’s interior including the amazing waterfalls in the Gunung stong state Park. (p295)

DABONG

this idyllic, tiny island off the northeast coast of Peninsular Malaysia, is a good diving base and with just three resorts, is quieter and less-developed than neighbouring islands such as the Perhentians. (p304)

PULAU LANG TENGAH

Home to a vast systems of caves and Malaysia’s only semideciduous forest, rich in wildlife, this small and remote state park runs for for 36km along the thai border. (p216)

TAMAN NEGERI PERLIS

said to resemble a pregnant woman laying on her back in the sea, this small, placid island, 10km off the southeast coast of Melaka, was once a retreat for Muslim mystics. (p238)

PULAU BESAR

not far from the Kalimantan border, deep in Murut country, this 600m jungle-topped limestone outcrop, riddled with caves, is a bucket-list challenge for rock climbers. (p387)

BATU PUNGGUL

at the northern tip of Brunei's temburong District, this 25-sq-km mangrove-forested island is an untamed habitat for proboscis monkeys and flying lemurs. (p487)

PULAU SELIRONGRECREATIONAL PARK

this seaside park's majestic mangroves are a habitat for monkeys, fireflies, estuarine crocodiles and countless varieties of fish and prawns. snub-nosed Irrawaddy dolphins can be spotted in the offshore waters. (p421)

KUCHING WETLANDS NATIONAL PARK

Laying deep in the heart of sabah you need to be on a tour to access this 25km-long canyon lined with pristine rainforest and hemmed in by immense sandstone cliffs. (p359)

IMBAK CANYONCONSERVATION AREA

a far less visited alternative to Malaysia's premier national park, this sprawling area of lowland forest rises to the limestone foothills bordering taman negara itself. (p282)


accessed from the town of Bekok in Johor, this forest offers trekking routes, campsites and waterfalls and gently cascading rivers in which you can swim. (p248)

SUNGAI BANTANG RECREATIONAL FOREST

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######•#•##•##•##•##•##•#

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SUMATRAINDONESIA

KALIMANTANINDONESIA

SARAWAKMALAYSIA

SABAHMALAYSIA

MYANMAR

PHILIPPINESTHAILAND

VIETNAM

MALAYSIA

BRUNEIDARUSSALAM

Gulf ofThailand

S O U T HC H I N A

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I N D I A NO C E A N

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C e l e b e sS e a

Strait ofMelaka

Sibolga

Sandakan

Taiping

Ipoh Semporna

Alor Setar

KotaKinabalu

Medan

George Town

Kuching

Melaka

Kuantan

KotaBharu

JohorBahru

Seramban

KualaTerengganu

Putrajaya

Kangar

BANDAR SERIBEGAWAN

SINGAPORE

KUALALUMPUR

#•

TAMANNEGERIPERLIS

PULAULANG

TENGAH

DABONG


SUNGAI BANTANGRECREATIONAL

FOREST

PULAUBESAR

PULAUSELIRONG

RECREATIONALPARK

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Malaysia & Brunei: Off the Beaten Track

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Lined with flowers, trees this attractive village, reached by the Jungle railway, is an excellent exploration base of Kelantan’s interior including the amazing waterfalls in the Gunung stong state Park. (p295)

DABONG

this idyllic, tiny island off the northeast coast of Peninsular Malaysia, is a good diving base and with just three resorts, is quieter and less-developed than neighbouring islands such as the Perhentians. (p304)

PULAU LANG TENGAH

Home to a vast systems of caves and Malaysia’s only semideciduous forest, rich in wildlife, this small and remote state park runs for for 36km along the thai border. (p216)

TAMAN NEGERI PERLIS

said to resemble a pregnant woman laying on her back in the sea, this small, placid island, 10km off the southeast coast of Melaka, was once a retreat for Muslim mystics. (p238)

PULAU BESAR

not far from the Kalimantan border, deep in Murut country, this 600m jungle-topped limestone outcrop, riddled with caves, is a bucket-list challenge for rock climbers. (p387)

BATU PUNGGUL

at the northern tip of Brunei's temburong District, this 25-sq-km mangrove-forested island is an untamed habitat for proboscis monkeys and flying lemurs. (p487)

PULAU SELIRONGRECREATIONAL PARK

this seaside park's majestic mangroves are a habitat for monkeys, fireflies, estuarine crocodiles and countless varieties of fish and prawns. snub-nosed Irrawaddy dolphins can be spotted in the offshore waters. (p421)

KUCHING WETLANDS NATIONAL PARK

Laying deep in the heart of sabah you need to be on a tour to access this 25km-long canyon lined with pristine rainforest and hemmed in by immense sandstone cliffs. (p359)

IMBAK CANYONCONSERVATION AREA

a far less visited alternative to Malaysia's premier national park, this sprawling area of lowland forest rises to the limestone foothills bordering taman negara itself. (p282)


accessed from the town of Bekok in Johor, this forest offers trekking routes, campsites and waterfalls and gently cascading rivers in which you can swim. (p248)

SUNGAI BANTANG RECREATIONAL FOREST

35PLAN

YOUR TRIP O

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SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

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OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edi-tion and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Ameer Hamza, Andrew Lamère, Charlotte Crawford, Dale Follas, Edwin Heeregrave, Evelin Mueller, Hanna Becker, J Welch, Jean-Philippe Mauve, Ken Wilson, Nadia Vendrig, Nicolas Combremont, Owen Davies, Sally Arnold, Simone and Sergine Verswijveren, Steve Mair, Steven Hankey, Susanne Mathys, Tim Marlow, Tom Micciche.

WRITER THANKSSimon RichmondTerima kasih to the following who assisted with my research in Malaysia: Ng Seksan, Andrew Sebastian, Narelle, Brian and Andrew, Mei Yun (Elena), Melissa Low, Baida Herbus and Mienal Hussein.

Brett AtkinsonIn Kuching, terima kasih to Donald and Marina, Wayne, Danny and Purdey, and thanks to Louise in Santubong. Around Batang Ai, Bading effortlessly led the way, and Lucy, David and Lian (x2) made visiting Bario an absolute highlight. Also in Bario it was good to meet the Mild Men of Borneo, Alasdair, Jason and Giles. Cheers also to Mr Lim, Daniel and Jason Brooke. Final thanks to Tanya Parker at Lonely Planet and my Borneo co-authors Anna and Paul.

Lindsay BrownI am very grateful for the assistance provided by numerous friendly folks across Malaysia’s northeast. In particular, I would like to thank Lorenz in Kuala Terengganu, Zeck in Kota Bharu and Bukhari ‘Bob’ Mat in Dabong. Thanks to Jenny for being the best travelling companion.

Austin BushThanks to all the kind folks on the ground in Malaysia, in particular Bairavi Shanmugam, Narelle McMurtrie, Wanida Razali and the cats at Temple Tree.

Ria de JongThank you to my destination editor Tanya Parker for all her help guiding me through my Lonely Planet adventure, and to all those I met along my travels who kindly shared their knowledge, time and Singa-pore secrets with me. Thanks also to Craig, Cisca and William, my travelling circus tribe.

Damian HarperMany thanks to everyone who helped along the way, especially Allan Rodrigo Balang, Peck Choo Ho, Carl Lim, Celeste Brash, Shaowen, Ruth, Pei Lee Yeoh, Johnny Doran, Rupert Maconick, Sue, the helpful staff at Hotel Sentral Kuantan, Haziq, Rudin Zulkarnain Voon, Tim and Emma, and much gratitude and a tip of the hat to everyone else who proffered tips and suggestions along the way.

Behind the Scenes


628

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES

Anita IsalskaBig thanks to all the travellers who shared their travel tips and tribulations with me – you helped make this trip. I’m grateful for the local insights and advice of Val and the Father’s Guesthouse team, Jason Marcus Chin, Andrew Sebastian, Jaja Taher, Jennifer Freely and Howard Tan – terima kasih. Special thanks to Normal Matt for facing highland roads (and his food demons) to join my research.

Anna KaminskiHuge thanks to Tanya for entrusting me with Sabah and Brunei, and to everyone who’s helped me along the way. In particular: Thanis Lim and Leslie in BSB;

William, Wendy and Tom in KK; Shavez in Tawau Hills; Itisha and Simon in Lahad Datu; Howard at the Tip of Borneo; Anton and Linn in Sandakan; Wong in Sepilok; Sitti in Deramakot; Afiq on the Kinabatangan; and my guides on Mt Kinabalu, in Danum Valley and Tabin Wildlife Reserve.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol-ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44.Cover photograph: Street art along the Melaka River, Melaka; Richard Taylor/4Corners ©

THIS BOOKThis 14th edition of Lonely Planet’s Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei guidebook was curated by Simon Richmond, and researched and written by Simon, Brett Atkinson, Lindsay Brown, Austin Bush, Ria de Jong, Damian Harper, Anita Isalska and Anna Kaminski. The previous edition was writ-ten by Isabel Albiston, Brett Atkinson, Greg Benchwick, Cristian Bonetto, Austin Bush, Anita Isalska, Robert Scott Kelly, Simon Richmond and Richard Waters. This

guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editor Tanya ParkerSenior Product Editor Kate ChapmanRegional Senior Cartographer Julie SheridanProduct Editor Will AllenBook Designer Fergal CondonAssisting Editors Sarah Bailey, Andrew Bain, James Bainbridge, Judith Bamber, Nigel Chin, Michelle Coxall, Jacqueline Danam, Anne Mulvaney, Rosie Nicholson, Monica Woods

Cartographers Hunor Csutoros, Julie DodkinsCover Researcher Wibowo RusliThanks to Jennifer Carey, Helen Elfer, Bruce Evans, Martin Heng, David Hodges, Kate James, Alicia Johnson, Amy Lynch, Hugh McNaughtan, Kate Morgan, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Niamh O’Brien, Genna Patterson, Monique Perrin, Gary Rafferty, Jessica Ryan, Eleanor Simpson, James Smart

629

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

AAbai 364-5accessible travel 602

Singapore 559accommodation 22, 602-4,

see also accommodation types individual locations

booking 603budgeting 73, 604language , 620-1

activities 36-43, see also individual activities

adventure sports 519AIDS 616Air Itam 185-6air travel 610, 611-12airports 21Alor Gajah 238Alor Setar 211-14, 213ambuyat 479amusement parks

Escape 189Jerudong Park

Playground 476Legoland 243Melaka Wonderland 237-8Skytrex Melaka 237Sunway Lagoon 117Universal Studios 517-18

animals 27, 339, 523-32, see also individual animals

animism 588Annah Rais Longhouse 422-3anti-Semitism 589apartments 603

George Town 175Kuala Lumpur 77

aquariumsAquaria KLCC 61SEA Aquarium 517Underwater World 195

architecture 25, 594-5Minangkabau 124

area codes 21art galleries, see galleries,

museumsArt Printing Works 95arts 590-4, see also individ-

ual art formsasam laksa 46, 47, 83ATMs 606ayam percik 88Ayer Keroh 237-8

BBa Kelalan 467-8Badawi, Abdullah 577Bako National Park 416-19Bakun Dam 440Balik Pulau 190-2ballooning 116Bandar Labuan 390-3, 391Bandar Seri Begawan 472-

84, 474accommodation 477-8activities 477drinking & nightlife 480-1emergencies 481entertainment 481food 478-80internet access 481media 481medical services 482money 482postal services 482shopping 481sights 472-6telephone services 482tours 477travel to/from 482-3travel within 483-4

Bangar 486-7bargaining 23Bario 462-4Bario rice 466Batang Ai 431-2Batang Duri 487Batang Rejang 436-40bathrooms 607-8

batik courses 71, 270, 288bats 446Batu Caves 17, 110-11, 17Batu Ferringhi 186-8Batu Gajah 137Batu Maung 192Batu Punggul 16, 387, 16Bau 425-6Bawang Assan Longhouse

Village 432beaches

Batu Ferringhi 186-8Beserah Beach 266Pantai Cahaya Bulan 293-4Pantai Cenang 195Pantai Kok 197-8Pantai Pasir Hitam 199Pantai Pasir Tengkorak 198Pantai Seri Kenangan 484Pantai Tengah 196-7Peranginan Pantai

Muara 476Pulau Libaran 359Pulau Mamutik 332Pulau Manukan 332Pulau Perhentian 298Pulau Sapi 333Sentosa Island 517Tanjung Aru 322, 328Teluk Kumbar 192Tempurung 388Tip of Borneo 345

bears 355Beaufort 387-8Beaufort Division 387-9bedbugs 616bees 618belacan 87Belaga 439-40Belait 484-5Belum-Temenggor

Rainforest 158-9Besar 298-300bicycle travel 612, see

also cyclingBidong Island 310, 314, 528Bilit 363

Bintulu 440-3, 442bird-watching 27

Danum Valley Conservation Area 368

Gunung Mulu National Park 455

Jurong Bird Park 515KL Bird Park 63Labuan Bird Park 391Vale Eco Center 145

birds 527birds nests 361boat cruises

Kuching 404boat travel 611, 612boat trips 43

Bako National Park 417-18Bandar Seri Begawan 477Kuching 404Sabah 361Similajau National

Park 443Taman Negara 278

books 566, 584, 586history 570, 571, 573, 575,

577, 578border crossings

Brunei Darussalam 393, 454, 482, 483

Indonesia 236, 245, 381, 414, 467, 562

Singapore 246Thailand 211, 214, 215, 293

Brunei Darussalam 54, 470-89, 471

accommodation 470, 489budgeting 488-9climate 470emergencies 489food 92, 470, 488highlights 471holidays 489legal issues 489LGBT+ travellers 489media 595money 488people 583


630

IND

EX B-E

Brunei Darussalam continued

politics 585postal services 489telephone services 489time 489tourist information 489travel seasons 470visas 489weather 470women travellers 489

Buddhism 586-7Buddhist temples

Buddha Tooth Relic Temple 501

Dhammikarama Burmese Buddhist Temple 170

Dharma Realm Guan Yin Sagely Monastery 62

Kek Lok Si Temple 186Kong Meng San

Phor Kark See Monastery 514

Puh Toh Tze Buddhist Temple 321-2

Puu Jih Syh Temple 349Sam Poh Temple 139Sin Sze Si Ya Temple 63Thean Hou Temple 66-7Tumpat 294Wat Buppharam 171Wat Chayamangkalaram

169-70Wat Nikrodharam 212

budgeting 21, 604, 605Brunei Darussalam 488-9Singapore 559, 560

Bukit Fraser 112-15, 113Bukit Larut 158Bukit Tambun 191bumiputra 576bus travel 610-11, 612business hours 21, 606

Singapore 560butterflies 67, 190, 531Butterworth 185

CCameron Highlands 12,

138-45, 140, 12accommodation 141-3drinking 143-5food 143-5information 144-5sights 139-41tours 141

travel to/from 145travel within 145

camping 603canopy walks 368car travel 612-13carbon emissions 598, 610cartoons 594cathedrals, see churches

& cathedralscats 403caves 27

Agop Batu Tulug 360Batu Caves 17, 110-11, 17Clearwater Cave 456Dabong 295Deer Cave 456, 531, 530Fairy Cave 426Gomantong Caves 360-1Great Cave 445, 446Gua Charas 268Gua Kelam 216Gua Tempurung 136Kek Look Tong 130Lang Cave 456Langang Cave 457Painted Cave 445Perak Tong 130, 26Pungiton Caves 387Sam Poh Tong 130Sleeping Buddha

Cave 268Taman Negeri Perlis 216Wind Cave (Bau) 425-6Wind Cave (Gunung Mulu

National Park) 456caving 40-1, 426, 457cell phones 20cemeteries

Bukit China 226Chinese Cemetery

(Sandakan) 349Japanese Cemetery

(Sandakan) 349Labuan War

Cemetery 391Protestant Cemetery 169

char kway teow 86Cherating 270-2, 271children, travel with 72,

604, 618-19Chiling Waterfalls 114China House 178Chinatown

Kuala Lumpur 62-3, 73-6, 82-93, 98-9, 102

Kuala Terengganu 309-10Kuching 401-2, 403Melaka City 224-5

Chinese opera 592Chinese people 580

churches & cathedralsAll Saints Church 153Christ Church 220St Andrew’s

Cathedral 498-9St Michael’s & All Angels

Church 349-50St Paul’s Church 220-1St Peter’s Church 226

cinema 592-3, see also filmsclanhouses 163climate 20, 28-9, see also

individual regionsclimate change 610clothing 22clouded leopards 524,

524-5clubs 549coffin caves 360Confucianism 586-7conservation, see environ-

mental issuesconsulates 604-5cooking courses 45, 71,

226-7, 288, 323Kuching 405Penang 171Singapore 522

coral 528, 528-9costs 21courses, see also individual

locationsbatik 71, 270, 288cooking 45, 71, 171, 226-

7, 288, 323, 405, 522crabs 547crafts 27, 594Crazy Rich Asians 593credit cards 606

Singapore 560crocodiles 443culture 580-5currency 20, 606

Brunei Darussalam 488Singapore 560

customs regulations 604Singapore 559

cycling 37, 612Kuala Lumpur 70-1

DDabong 295dams 598-9dangers, see safetydance 591Danum Valley Conservation

Area 367-9Darul Hana Bridge 395Dayak people 582-3deforestation 596-7

dengue fever 616departure tax 611diarrhoea 616-17disabilities, travellers

with 602diving & snorkelling 11, 13,

41, 528Bandar Seri Begawan 477Kota Belud 344Labuan 391-2Miri 448Pulau Kapas 306Pulau Langkawi 202Pulau Perhentian 296-7responsible diving 43safety 617Semporna

Archipelago 373Tanjung Datu National

Park 429Tioman Island 257, 256-8Tip of Borneo 345tours 322-4

drama 591drinking & nightlife see

individual locationsdrinks, see fooddriving see car traveldriving licences 613

Singapore 563durian 49, 48

EEast Coast Malaysia,

see Peninsular Malaysia’s Northeast, Pahang, Tioman Island

economy 567ecosystems 532electricity 602, 604

Singapore 559elephants 273, 527embassies 604-5


emergencies 21language 622

Emergency 574Endau-Rompin National

Park 252-3, 253ntertainment, see individ-

ual locationsenvironmental issues 596-

600, 610websites 597, 598, 600

etiquette 23, 46Eurasian people 581-2events, see festivals &

eventsexchange rates 21


631IN

DEX F-I

Ffasting 50festivals & events 17, 28-9,

see also music festivals, individual locations, individual festivals

Islamic 587films 566, 577fireflies 120, 314fish 528flying foxes 527, 527folk medicine 619food 23, 83-92, 10-11,

23, 83-92, see also cooking courses, indi-vidual foods, individual locations

blogs 80budgeting 605Burmese 539etiquette 46food courts 545language 621-2street food 11, 45-50, 179

Free Tree Society 96fruit 49

Ggado gado 380galleries 26-7, see also

museums, street artArt Porters 503Bank Negara Malaysia

Museum & Art Gallery 69

Batik Painting Museum Penang 165-6

Galeri Petronas 61Gillman Barracks 516Hin Bus Depot 169ILHAM 57Junglebluesdream Art

Gallery 462Kampong Ayer Cultural

& Tourism Gallery 473National Gallery Singa-

pore 19, 497, 19National Visual Arts

Gallery 67-9Perakanan Photo

Gallery 310Sabah Art Gallery 319Sekeping Tenggiri 67Zheng He Duo Yun

Xuan 225gardens, see parks &

gardensGardens by the Bay 491,

496-7, 26gay travellers, see LGBT+

travellers

Genting Highlands 111-12geography 596geology 334-5George Town 12, 24, 162-

85, 164-5, 168, 170, 12accommodation 173-6drinking & nightlife 180-1entertainment 181-2food 177-80internet access 183medical services 183money 183postal services 183shopping 182-3sights 162-71tourist information 183travel to/from 183-4travel within 184-5walking tour 168, 168

gibbons 524Gillman Barracks 516Golden Mile Complex 539golf 519Gopeng 136-8government 579guesthouses 603Gunung Bengoh 426Gunung Mulu National Park

455-61, 39

HHari Raya Aidil Fitri 473hawker stalls, see street

foodhealth 615-19

websites 615heat 617hepatitis 616high tea 540hiking 15, 36-7, 38

Bako National Park 417-18

Batang Ai National Park 431

Bukit Fraser 112-13Cameron Highlands 139Danum Valley Conserva-

tion Area 367-8guides 458, 464Gunung Gading National

Park 427-8Gunung Mulu National

Park 455-9Kelabit Highlands 466-7Kuala Lipis 281Kubah National Park 424Lambir Hills National

Park 447Limbang Division 468

Maliau Basin Conserva-tion Area 382

Matang Wildlife Centre 425

Mt Kinabalu 335-9Niah National Park 445Penang National Park 189preparation 278Pulau Perhentian 297-8safety 38, 258, 278, 367Similajau National

Park 443Sungai Kinabatangan 362Taman Negara 276-7Tanjung Datu National

Park 429Tioman Island 258tours 322-4Ulu Temburong National

Park 488Hindu temples

Arulmigu Rajamariam-man Devasthanam 241

Arulmigu Sri Rajakaliam-man 241

Sri Mahamariamman Temple 63

Sri Mariamman Temple 171

Sri Poyatha Venayagar Moorthi Temple 225

Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple 505-6

Sri Subramaniam Thuropathai Amman Alayam 226

Sri Vadapathira Kaliam-man Temple 504-5

Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple 504

Hinduism 587historic buildings & sites

8 Heeren Street 225Astana 404Balai Besar 212Balai Nobat 212Batu Bersurat 147Blue Mansion 162-3Bukit Malawati 120Fort Cornwallis 167Hock Teik Cheng Sin

Temple 166Kota Belanda 147Loke Mansion 69Master Mat’s House 97Old Court House

Complex 400Old KL Train Station 67Pinang Peranakan

Mansion 163-4Porta de Santiago 224

Rumah Penghulu Abu Seman 61

Sandakan Memorial Park 348-9

St Francis’ Institution Melaka 221

Stadthuys 219-20Teck Soon Heritage

House 309-10TT5 Tin Dredge 137Villa Sentosa 225

history 569-79books 570, 571, 573, 575,

577, 578Borneo 572bumiputra 576Dutch rule 570-1East India Company 571Emergency 574ethnic tensions

574, 575GE13 578Kedah 195Kuala Lumpur 57lost flights 578-9Melaka 218-19Melaka Empire 570Penang 161-2Perak 129Portuguese rule 570-1Sabah 334Sarawak 395Selangor & Negeri

Sembilan 110Singapore 491websites 574, 576WWII 573

hitching 613HIV 616holidays 606-7

Brunei Darussalam 489Singapore 560-1

homestays 364honey 140-1hor fun 86hornbills 527, 526hostels 603hotels 603

IIbrahim, Anwar 566, 577-8ikan patin 88Imbak Canyon Conserva-

tion Area 359Indian people 581influenza 616insurance 605internet access 605

Singapore 559

632

IND

EX I-M

internet resources, see websites

Ipoh 129-36, 132-3accommodation 131-3activities 131drinking & nightlife 135food 133-5shopping 135sights 130tours 131travel to/from 135-6travel within 136

Islam 567, 570, 586Islamic festivals 587islands 27, see also Pulau

entriesitineraries 30-5, 30, 31,

32, 33, 34-5Singapore 497

JJalan Labi 484-5jellyfish 203Jerantut 274-5, 275Jerudong 476Johor 52, 239-53, 240

accommodation 239climate 239food 89, 239highlights 240travel seasons 239weather 239

Johor Bahru 24, 240-6, 242Jonker Walk Night Market

18, 18jungles 524

KKampong Ayer 17, 472-3, 17Kampung Air Batang

259, 260Kampung Baru 97Kampung Benuk 423Kampung Genting 259, 262Kampung Juara 259, 261Kampung Kuala Tahan 278-9Kampung Mukut 259, 262Kampung Nipah 259, 262Kampung Papan 137Kampung Paya 259, 262Kampung Pulau

Betong 190-2Kampung Salang 259, 260-1Kampung Tekek 259-60Kangar 215-16

Kapit 437-9, 438kari kepala ikan 90kayaking 41-3Kebun-Kebun Bangsar 96Kecil 300-3Kedah 52, 193-4, 194-215,

194climate 193food 87highlights 194history 195travel seasons 193weather 193

Kelabit Highlands 15, 461-8, 15

Kelantan 285-94Keningau 386Kenong Rimba State

Park 282kerangas 532kidnappings 376Kinabalu National

Park 334-42Kinabatangan Orangutan

Conservation Project 361Kinabatangan River 360-5Kinta Valley 137Klang 118-20Kota Belud 344Kota Bharu 19, 285-93,

289, 19accommodation 288-90courses 288drinking & nightlife 292festivals & events 288food 290-2information 292shopping 292sights 285-8tours 288travel to/from 292travel within 293

Kota Kinabalu 318-31, 320, 85, 92

accommodation 324-6activities 322-4cuisine 326drinking & nightlife 328-9emergencies 329food 326-8immigration 329laundry 329medical services 329money 329postal services 329shopping 329sights 318-22tourist information

329-30tours 322-4

travel to/from 330-1travel within 331

Kota Tinggi 248Kuala Besut 302Kuala Kangsar 150-3, 152Kuala Kedah 214-15Kuala Keniam 279Kuala Kubu Bharu 114Kuala Lipis 281-2Kuala Lumpur 18, 51, 56-

107, 58-9, 60, 64-5, 68, 70, 74-5, 78, 18, 90-1

accommodation 56, 72-9, 105

activities 69-71climate 56courses 71-2drinking & nightlife 97entertainment 100-1festivals & events 72food 56, 79-82, 91, 93-7for children 72highlights 58-9history 57immigration 104internet access 104itineraries 62LGBT+ travellers 100media 104medical services 104money 104postal services 104shopping 101-4sights 57-69tourist information 104travel seasons 56travel to/from 104-5travel within 105-7weather 56

Kuala Perkai 279Kuala Pilah 123-4Kuala Selangor 120-1Kuala Sepetang 157-8Kuala Terengganu 307-

14, 308Kuantan 265-9, 266Kubah National Park 423-5Kuching 14, 395-415,

398-9, 14accommodation 406-8activities 404-5drinking & nightlife 411embassies &

consulates 412emergencies 412festivals & events 405-6food 408-11laundry 412-13medical services 413

money 413police 413postal services 413safety 412shopping 411-12sights 395-404tourist information 413tours 405travel to/from 413-14travel within 415visas 413

Kuching Wetlands National Park 421

Kudat 344-5kuih 85

LLahad Datu 365-7language 20, 23, 620-4Layang Layang 347-8, 42Lee Kuan Yew 567leeches 367, 617legal matters 605


legends 204Legoland 243Lenggong Valley 24, 151leopards 524lesbian travellers, see

LGBT+ travellersLGBT+ travellers 100, 605-6


librariesNational Library

(Singapore) 500lice 617-18Limbang Division 468-9literature 590-1, see

also booksLong Pasia 385longhouses 15, 583,

603-4, 15Annah Rais Longhouse

422-3Bario Asal Longhouse 461Batang Rejang basin 444Bawang Assan Long-

house Village 432Belaga 439Labi Longhouses 484-5

Lundu 426-7

Mmacaques 418Mah Meri Cultural Village 119malaria 616Malay people 580


633IN

DEX M

Maliau Basin 383Maliau Basin Conservation

Area 382-3mangroves 532maps 606Marang 315Marina Bay Sands 499markets 19, 102, 84-5, 86-7

Bangsar Sunday Market 93

Bau 426Bazaar Baru Chow Kit 102Chinatown Wet

Market 102George Town 176Jonker Walk Night

Market 18, 18Kapit 437Kota Kinabalu 318Kuala Terengganu 309Kuching 404, 410Masjid India Pasar

Malam 93Melaka City 232Miri 448Pudu Market 102Pulau Langkawi 208Singapore 505, 511

massageSingapore 519-21

media 595medical services 615medicine, traditional 619mee jawa 380mee rebus 88-9megaliths

Bario 463Pengkalan Kempas

Megalith Site 125Melaka 18, 52, 217-38,

218, 18accommodation 217climate 217entertainment 24food 89, 217highlights 218history 218-19travel seasons 217weather 217

Melaka City 219-37, 220, 222-3

accommodation 228-30activities 226drinking & nightlife 233-4entertainment 234festivals & events 227-8food 230-3information 236shopping 234-6

sights 219-26tours 227travel to/from 236-7travel within 237

memorials, see monu-ments & memorials, WWII sites & memorials

Merang 314Mersing 248-50, 249Minangkabau people 124Miri 448-55, 450mobile phones 20Mohamad, Mahathir 566,

575-6, 579money 20, 21, 606

bargaining 23Brunei Darussalam 488exchange rates 21Singapore 560tipping 23

monkeys 356, 389, 418, 524, 525

monuments & memorialsBillionth Barrel

Monument 485German Girl Shrine 511Great Cat of Kuching 403Kota Mahsuri 199Kranji War Memorial 517Kucing Kucing 403Kundasang War Memo-

rial 342Melaka Malay Sultanate

Water Wheel 221Memorial Stone 388National Monument 66Pialungan Sanda-

kan-Ranau Death March Memorial 342

Sunsuron Guritom 385Tom Harrisson

Monument 462mosques 25

Abdul Gafoor Mosque 505

City Mosque (Kota Kinabalu) 319-20

Indian Mosque 402Masjid A R Rahman

Pulau Perhentian 296Masjid Diraja Sultan

Suleiman 118Masjid Jamek Sultan

Abdul Samad 62Masjid Kampung

Hulu 225Masjid Kampung

Kling 225Masjid Kapitan

Keling 167-9Masjid Negara 67

Masjid Negeri Sembilan 122

Masjid Selat Melaka 219Masjid Sultan Ahmad

Shah 265Masjid Sultan Salahuddin

Abdul Aziz Shah 117Masjid Tengku Tengah

Zaharah 310Masjid Ubudiah 151Masjid Zahir 211Omar Ali Saifuddien

Mosque 17, 472, 17, 589Putra Mosque 115Semporna Mosque 370Sultan Abu Bakar

Mosque 241Sultan Mosque 507Tuanku Mizan Zainal

Abidin Mosque 115Zainal Abidin Mosque 310

mosquitoes 280motorcycle travel 612-13mountain climbing 37-40,

335-9Mt Kinabalu 13, 334-42,

532, 337, 340, 13, 532accommodation 339-41climbing 335-9flora & fauna 339food 341geology 334-5history 334planning 335travel to/from 341-2

Mt Trusmadi 385-6Muar 246-8Muhammad V, Sultan 568multiculturalism 584murals 24, 247, 501, see

also street artmuseums 26, see also

galleriesAgnes Keith House 348Art Museum 403Asia Camera Museum 166Asian Civilisations

Museum 497-8Baba House 501Baba & Nyonya Heritage

Museum 224-5Bank Negara Malaysia

Museum & Art Gallery 69

Battlebox 498Brunei Darussalam

Maritime Museum 475Brunei Museum 474-5Cathay Gallery 509Changi Museum &

Chapel 510

Cheng Ho Cultural Museum 225

Chetti Museum 226Chinatown Heritage

Centre 501Chinese Heritage

Museum 241Chinese History

Museum 400Dusun Museum 385Forestry Museum 485Former Ford Factory 24,

513-14Fort Margherita 404Fort Siloso 517Fort Sylvia 437Galeri Diraja Sultan

Abdul Aziz 118Galeri Sultan Abdul

Halim 212Galeria Perdana 199House of Yeap Chor

Ee 166Images of Singapore

Live 518Indian Heritage

Centre 503-4Interpretation Centre

(Bako National Park) 416

Interpretation Centre (Matang Wildlife Centre) 425

Interpretation Centre (Similajau National Park) 443

Islamic Arts Museum 63Islamic Heritage

Museum 402Istana Batu 288Istana Heritage

Gallery 509Istana Jahar 285Istana Kenangan 151-2Istana Lama 124Katong Antique

House 511Klang Fire Station 118Komik Asia 169Kompleks Muzium

Negeri Terengganu 310Labuan Marine

Museum 390-1Labuan Museum 390Laman Padi 195Lau King Howe Memorial

Museum 432Lee Kong Chian Natural

History Museum 515-16

Lenggong Archaeological Gallery 151

634

IND

EX M-P

museums continuedLimbang Regional

Museum 468Mahathir’s Birthplace 212Malay Heritage

Centre 507Malay Technology

Museum 473-4Mari Mari Cultural

Village 319Maritime Museum &

Naval Museum 220Monsopiad Cultural

Village 320-1Mulu Discovery

Centre 455Museum of Islamic

Civilisation 321Muzium Darul

Ridzuan 130Muzium Diraja Kedah 212Muzium Islam 285Muzium Kota Kayang 215Muzium Negeri 212Muzium Negeri

Kelanta 285Muzium Negeri

Sembilan 121-2Muzium Padi 214Muzium Perak 153National Museum

(Malaysia) 63National Museum of

Singapore 498Natural History

Museum 403Niah Archaeology

Museum 445NUS Museum 515Oil & Gas Discovery

Centre 485Pahang Art Museum 265Penang Museum 167Peranakan Museum 498Petroleum Museum

(Miri) 448Petrosains 61Ranee Museum 24, 400Red Dot Design Museum

24, 499Royal Abu Bakar

Museum 241Royal Museum 67Royal Regalia

Museum 472Rungus Museum 345Sabah Museum 318-19SAM at 8Q 500

Sarawak Cultural Village 419-20

Sarawak Museum 402Sarawak Textile

Museum 401Sibu Heritage Centre 432Singapore City

Gallery 503Sultan Azlan Shah

Gallery 151Sultanate Palace 224Teochew Puppet & Opera

House 166music 591-2music festivals

Borneo Jazz 449Penang Island Jazz

Festival 187Rainforest World Music

Festival 406

Nnasi kerabu 89nasi kuning 380National Gallery

Singapore 19, 19national parks & nature

reserves 25, 27, 40Bako National Park

416-19Batang Ai National

Park 431Bukit Gemok Forest

Reserve 378Bukit Mas Nature

Reserve 468Bukit Patoi Recreational

Park 486Bukit Timah Nature

Reserve 514Cape Rachado Forest

Reserve 125Chek Jawa Wetlands 511Crocker Range National

Park 384Danum Valley Conserva-

tion Area 367-9Deramakot Forest

Reserve 359-60Endau-Rompin National

Park 252-3Forest Research Institute

Malaysia 111Gunung Gading

National Park 427-9Gunung Ledang National

Park 247Gunung Mulu

National Park 455-61, 39

Gunung Stong State Park 295

Habitat, the 186Imbak Canyon Conserva-

tion Area 359Kenong Rimba State

Park 282Kilim Karst Geoforest

Park 198-9Kinabalu National Park

334-42Kubah National Park

423-5Kuching Wetlands

National Park 421Labrador Nature

Reserve 516Labuan Marine Park 391Lambir Hills National

Park 447Luagan Lalak Recreation

Park 484MacRitchie Reservoir 514Maliau Basin Conserva-

tion Area 382-3Niah National Park 445-7Penang National Park 189Pulau Selirong Recrea-

tional Park 487Pulau Tiga National

Park 389Rainforest Discovery

Centre 355-6Royal Belum State

Park 158-9Similajau National

Park 443-5Soga Perdana Recrea-

tional Forest 248Southern Ridges 515Sungai Bantang Recrea-

tional Forest 248Talang-Satang National

Park 430-1Taman Alam Kuala

Selangor 120Taman Negara 276-81Taman Negeri Perlis 216Taman Tugu 24Tambunan Rafflesia

Reserve 384-5Tampat Do Aman Nature

Reserve 345Tanjung Datu

National Park 429-30Tanjung Piai National

Park 248Tawau Hills Park 381-2Teluk Bahang Forest

Reserve 189-90Tunku Abdul Rahman

National Park 332-4Ulu Temburong National

Park 487-8

Negeri Sembilan 51, 108-9, 121-6, 109

accommodation 108climate 108food 91, 108highlights 109history 110travel seasons 108weather 108

newspapers 602Singapore 561

notable buildings, see also historic buildings & sites

Atkinson Clock Tower 318Bangunan Sultan

Ibrahim 241Emerald Hill Road 507-9Heritage District (Johor

Bahru) 241Istana Kehakiman 115-16Kampung Baru

Gateway 69King George V School 122Kompleks Perdadanan

Putrajaya 116Kuching North City

Hall 404Menara Alor Setar 211Menara Kuala Lumpur 62Petronas Towers 57Putrajaya Convention

Centre 116Raffles Hotel 498Sarawak State

Assembly 404State Library

(Seremban) 122

OOmar Ali Saifuddien

Mosque 17, 472, 17, 589opening hours 21, 606

Singapore 560Orang Asli people 582orangutans 14, 354, 355,

425, 524, 14, 524

PPahang 53, 254-83, 255

accommodation 254climate 254food 89, 254highlights 255travel seasons 254weather 254

painting 593palaces

Istana Besar 124-5Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

635IN

DEX P

-S Istana Iskandariah 152Istana Kenangan 151-2Istana Lama 124Istana Maziah 311Istana Nurul Iman 473,

475-6palm-oil plantations 597-8Pa’Lungan 464-5pan mee 90Pangkor Laut 149Pangkor Town 150Pantai Cenang 195Pantai Kok 197-8Pantai Tengah 196-7parks & gardens 27, see

also national parks & nature reserves

Art & Garden by Fuan Wong 189

Botanical Garden (Kina-balu National Park) 342

Botanical Gardens (Penang) 186

Chestnut Park 514China-Malaysia Friend-

ship Garden 115East Coast Park 510-11Entopia by Penang

Butterfly Farm 190Fort Canning Park 499Gardens by the Bay 491,

496-7, 26Kebun-Kebun Bangsar 96KL Forest Eco Park 62KLCC Park 57Lake Gardens 122Lake Gardens - Tun Abdul

Razak Heritage Park 67Marina Barrage 499-500Melaka Botanical

Garden 237Miri City Fan 448Monkeycup@Penang

Hill 186Orchid Garden 404Perdana Botanical

Garden 67Rejang Esplanade 432Singapore Botanic

Gardens 509-10Taman Botani 115Taman Peranginan

Tasek 476Taman Tamadu Islam 310Taman Tasik Taiping 153Taman Tugu 63-6Taman Wetland 115Tanjung Emas Park 247Titiwangsa Lake

Gardens 69Tropical Spice Garden 189

Pasir Bogak 148, 149-50passports 608Pekan 264-5, 265Pelabuhan Klang 118-20Penang 52, 160-92, 161,

86-7accommodation 160,

173-6climate 160courses 171festivals & events 172-3food 87, 160highlights 161history 161-2tours 171-2travel seasons 160weather 160

Penang Hill 185-6Penarik 314Peninsular Malaysia’s

Northeast 53, 284-315, 286-7

accommodation 284climate 284food 284highlights 286-7travel seasons 284weather 284

people 580-5, see also individual peoples

Perak 51, 127-59, 128climate 127food 87, 127highlights 128history 129travel seasons 127weather 127

Peranakan people 581Perlis 52, 193-4, 215-16, 194

climate 193food 87highlights 194travel seasons 193weather 193

Petaling Jaya 117-18Petronas Towers 57photography 606pineapples 466planning 22-3

budgeting 21calendar of events 28-9checklist 22family travel 72, 604,

618-19itineraries 30-5, 30, 31,

32, 33Malaysia, Singapore &

Brunei basics 20-1Malaysia, Singapore &

Brunei regions 51-4repeat visitors 24travel seasons 20websites 21

plants 339politics 566, 568, 585pollution 617population 567Port Dickson 125-6postal services 606


proboscis monkeys 356, 389, 524

Pulau Aman 191Pulau Aur 251-2Pulau Banggi 347Pulau Berhala 358Pulau Besar 238, 250Pulau Bidong 310, 314, 528Pulau Carey 119Pulau Dayang 251-2Pulau Duyung 310-11Pulau Gaya 333Pulau Kapalai 377Pulau Kapas 306-7Pulau Ketam 119Pulau Labuan 390-3Pulau Lang Tengah 304Pulau Langkawi 18, 52,

193-4, 195-211, 194, 196-7, 200, 18

accommodation 193, 202-6

activities 195-201climate 193drinking & nightlife 209festivals & events 202food 193, 206-9highlights 194internet access 210legends 204medical services 210money 210shopping 209-10sights 195-201tourist information 210tours 201-2travel seasons 193travel to/from 210travel within 210-11weather 193

Pulau Lankayan 359Pulau Libaran 359Pulau Mabul 376Pulau Mamutik 332-3Pulau Mantanan 346-7Pulau Manukan 332Pulau Mataking 377-8

Pulau Pangkor 24, 145-50, 146

Pulau Pemanggil 251-2Pulau Perhentian 13, 295-

303, 528, 296, 13Pulau Pom Pom 378Pulau Rawa 251Pulau Redang 303-6, 528Pulau Sapi 333Pulau Satang Besar 430Pulau Selingan 358Pulau Sibu 250-1Pulau Sipadan 11, 11Pulau Sulug 334Pulau Talang-Talang 430Pulau Tinggi 251Pulau Tioman, see Tioman

IslandPulau Ubin 511public holidays, see holidaysPutrajaya 115-17pygmy elephants 527, 526

Qquays, Singapore 500

Rrabies 616radio 602Raffles, Stamford 571rafflesia 384, 531, 530rafting, see white-water

raftingrainbow toads 531, 530-1Ramadan 50, 489Ranau 342Raub 282-3Razak, Najib 577, 579religion 586-9resorts 131, 262-3responsible travel 600resthouses 604rhinos 527Riau Archipelago

(Indonesia) 562rice, Bario 466River of Life project 63rivers 599road rules 613rock climbing 37-40Romol Eco Village 387roti prata 91

SSabah 53, 316-93, 317

accommodation 316art scene 319

636

IND

EX S-T

Sabah continuedclimate 316driving tour 332food 92, 316highlights 317history 334people 583travel seasons 316weather 316

safety 607, 613crocodiles 443hiking 38, 258jellyfish 203Johor Bahru 244kidnappings 376mosquitoes 280Sepilok Orangutan

Rehabilitation Centre 354

Tioman Island 258salt 466Sandakan 348-53, 350

accommodation 351drinking & nightlife 352-3food 351-2information 353sights 348-50tours 350-1travel to/from 353travel within 353

Sandakan Archipelago 358-9

Sandakan Death Marches 349

Santubong Peninsula 419-22

Sarawak 15, 53, 394-469, 396-7

accommodation 394climate 394food 92, 394highlights 396-7history 395people 583travel seasons 394weather 394

Sarawak Cultural Village 419-20

Sarawak Museum Campus 402

scenery 25sculpture 593Selangor 51, 108-9, 110-

21, 109accommodation 108climate 108

food 91, 108highlights 109history 110travel seasons 108weather 108

Seletar Aerospace Park 24, 546

Sematan 428Semporna 370-1, 372Semporna Archipelago

371-8Sentosa Island 517-18, 538,

547-8, 553-4, 518Sepilok 354-8, 356Seremban 121-3, 123Seria 485Seribuat Archipelago 250-2shadow puppets 591Shah Alam 117-18shopping 27, see also

individual locationslanguage 622

Sibu 432-6, 435silat 25Singapore 54, 490-564,

492-3, 494-5, 502-3, 506, 508, 512, 518, 85

accessible travel 559accommodation 490,

533-8, 559airport hotels 537budgeting 559, 560business hours 560climate 490courses 522customs regulations 559discounts 559drinking & nightlife

548-54drinks 548electricity 559embassies &

consulates 559entertainment 554-5environmental issues 600festivals & events 522-33food 91, 490, 538-48, 560highlights 492-3history 491holidays 560-1internet access 559itineraries 497language 623legal issues 559LGBT+ travellers 551magazines 561media 595medical services 560money 560

newspapers 561opening hours 560politics 585postal services 560Quays 500shopping 555-9sights 491-518smoking 561telephone services 561time 561toilets 561tourist information 561tours 522travel seasons 490travel to/from 561travel within 562-4visas 561walking tour 520, 520weather 490weights & measures 561

Singlish 623Siniawan Night Market 410Sipadan 376, 528skin protection 618snakes 618snorkelling, see diving &

snorkellingsoto makassar 380spas

Gunung Mulu National Park 455

Kinabalu National Park 342

Kuala Lumpur 69-71Melaka City 226Penang 187Pulau Langkawi 195,

196-7, 199Singapore 519-21

speakeasies 181, 550Sri Menanti 124-5statues, see monuments

& memorialsstrawberries 141street art

George Town 172Kota Bharu 288Kuala Lumpur 99Melaka 227Singapore 501

street festivals 173street food 11, 45-50, 179

Brickfields Street 94Jalan Alor 81Kota Kinabalu 327Pudu 82

street names, George Town 184

Sukau 362-3

Sultan of Brunei 473sun bears 355sunburn 618Sungai Kinabatangan 360-5Sungai Klias 389Sungai Lembing 268Supertrees 491, 496-7, 26surfing 43

Cherating 270Sabah 345safety 617

swiftlets 361, 446swimming

Singapore 521

TTabin Wildlife Reserve

369-70Taiping 153-7, 154

walking tour 156, 156Taman Negara 16, 276-81,

277, 16Taman Rekreasi Gunung

Lang 131, 523Tambunan 384-5Tanah Rata 141-4, 142Tanjung Aru 328Tanjung Gemok 264Tanjung Rhu 198-9Tanjung Sipang Mengayu

345-6Taoism 586-7Taoist temples, see templestapirs 527, 526Tasik Chini 273, 599Tasik Kenyir 315Tawau 378-81, 379taxes 556taxis 613taxis, long distance 614tea plantations

Boh Sungei Palas Tea Estate 144

Boh Tea Garden 141Gaharu Tea Valley 137Sabah Tea Garden 342

Tekka Centre 543telephone services 607


television 602Teluk Bahang 188-90Teluk Datai 198Teluk Kumbar 192Teluk Nipah 147-8, 149Temburong 485-8Temerloh 273temple caves 130


637IN

DEX T-Z

temples 25, see also Buddhist temples, Hindu temples

Cheng Hoon Teng Temple 225

Foo Lin Kong 147Hiang Thian Siang

Temple 402Hin Ho Bio 402Ho Ann Kiong 309Hock Teik Cheng Sin

Temple 166Hong San Si Temple 401Johor Bahru Old Chinese

Temple 241Kuan Yin Teng 169Lian Shan Shuang Lin

Monastery 514Lin Je Kong Temple 147Sam Poh Footprint

Temple 192San Ching Tian

Temple 448Thian Hock Keng

Temple 501Tiang Yun Dian Chinese

Temple 473Tua Pek Kong Temple

402, 432, 448Tempurung 388-9Tenom 386-7Terengganu 295-315Thaipusam 588theft 607ticks 618tigers 524, 525time 20, 607

Brunei Darussalam 489language 622Singapore 561

Tioman Island 14, 53, 254-5, 255-64, 255, 256, 14

accommodation 254climate 254food 254highlights 255travel seasons 254weather 254

Tiong Bahru 505Tip of Borneo 345-6tipping 23toads 530-1toilets 607-8tourist information 608, see

also individual locationstours, see also individual

locationsadventure 322-4

diving 322-4wildlife-watching 324

traditional medicine 619train travel 331, 614transit hotels 105, 537transport 610-14

language 624travel advisories 607travel cards 107travel to/from Malaysia,

Singapore & Brunei 610-11

travel within Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei 21, 611-14

trekking, see hikingTringgus 426trishaws 25, 237, 564, 613-14Tuaran 343-4, 42Tumpat 294Tunku Abdul Rahman

National Park 332-4turtles 528, 528-9Tutong 484TV 602typhoid 616

UUlu Temburong National

Park 487-8Unesco World Heritage sites

central George Town 162-9, 169

central Melaka 219-24Mt Kinabalu & Kinabalu

National Park 334-42Singapore Botanic

Gardens 509-10

Vvacation, see holidaysvaccinations 615Vale Eco Center 145Via Ferrata 338viewpoints 25

Menara Taming Sari 221-4Pinnacle@Duxton 501-3Signal Hill Observatory

Platform 318Sky Tower Malacca 225-6Top at KOMTAR 171

visas 20, 608Brunei Darussalam 489Singapore 561

volunteering 258-9, 425, 608-9

East Coast islands 301

Wwalking, see hikingwalking tours

George Town 168, 168Singapore 520, 520Taiping 156, 156

wasps 618water parks

Adventure Cove Waterpark 521-2

Singapore Wake Park 521Wave House 522

water, tap 618waterfalls

Chiling Waterfalls 114Durian Perangin 199Gunung Gading National

Park 428Lata Iskandar 139Mahua Waterfall 385Takah Berangin Falls 253Takah Pandan Falls 253Telaga Tujuh 197Temurun Waterfall 198Upeh Guling Falls 252-3

weather 20, 28-9Brunei Darussalam 479Singapore 490

websites 21, 568, 590environmental issues

597, 598, 600health 615history 574, 576

weights & measures 602Singapore 561

Weston 389White Rajas 572white-water rafting 41-3,

323-4Beaufort 388Kuala Kubu Bharu 114

wildlife reserves & sanctuaries

Borneo Sun Bear Con-servation Centre 355

Jurong Bird Park 515Kinta Nature Park 136KL Bird Park 63-82KL Butterfly Park 67Kota Kinabalu Wetland

Centre 319Kudat Turtle Conserva-

tion Society 345Labuk Bay Proboscis

Monkey Sanctuary 356Matang Wildlife

Centre 425

National Elephant Con-servation Centre 273

Penarik Firefly Sanctuary 314

Semenggoh Wildlife Centre 422

Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre 14, 354

Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve 516-17

Tabin Wildlife Reserve 369-70

wildlife smuggling 597wildlife watching 27, 41, see

also bird-watchingBako National Park

417, 418Cherating 270Kampung Kuantan 120Maliau Basin Conserva-

tion Area 382Pulau Pangkor 148Softwoods Plantation

24, 378tours 324Zoo Negara 111

women in Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei 584-5

women travellers 609Brunei Darussalam 489

women’s health 619work 609WWII 349WWII sites & memorials

Battlebox 498Changi Museum &

Chapel 510Kranji War Memorial 517Kundasang War

Memorial 342Pialungan Sandakan-

Ranau Death March Memorial 342

Sandakan Memorial Park 348

WWII Memorial (Labuan War Cemetery) 391

ZZhongshan building 103zoos

Langkawi Wildlife Park 199

Singapore Zoo 513Zoo Negara 111Zoo Taiping & Night

Safari 153-4

638

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro/MRT/MTR station

Petrol stationSkytrain/Subway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Gate

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

Map Legend


Austin BushPenang; Langkawi, Kedah & Perlis Austin originally went to Thailand in 1999 as part of a language study program hosted by Chiang Mai University. The lure of city life, employment and spicy food eventually led him to Bangkok and have managed to keep him there since. He works as a writer and photographer, and in addition to having contributed to numerous books, magazines and websites, he has contributed text and photos to more than 20 Lonely Planet titles, with a

focus on food and Southeast Asia. Austin also wrote the Eat Like a Local and Regional Specialties sections of this book.

Ria de JongSingapore Ria started life in Asia, born in Sri Lanka to Dutch-Australian parents; she has always relished the hustle and excitement of this continent of contrasts. After growing up in Townsville, Australia, Ria moved to Sydney as a features writer before packing her bags for a five-year stint in the Philippines. Moving to Singa-pore in 2015 with her husband and two small children, Ria is loving discovering every nook and cranny of this tiny city, country, nation.

Damian HarperMelaka; Johor; Pahang & Tioman Island With two degrees (one in modern and classical Chinese from SOAS), Damian has been writing for Lonely Planet for over two decades, covering destinations as diverse as China, Vietnam, Thailand, Ireland, Mallorca, Malaysia, Hong Kong and the UK. A seasoned guidebook writer, Damian also has penned articles for numerous newspapers and magazines, including the Guardian and the Daily Telegraph, and currently makes Surrey,

England, his home. A self-taught trumpet novice, his other hobbies include collecting modern first editions, photography and taekwondo. Follow Damian on Instagram (damian.harper).

Anita IsalskaPerak; Selangor & Negeri Sembilan Anita Isalska is a travel journalist, editor and copywriter. After several merry years as a staff writer and editor – a few of them in Lonely Planet’s London office – Anita now works freelance between San Fran-cisco, the UK and any Baltic bolthole with good wi-fi. Anita specialises in Eastern and Central Europe, Southeast Asia, France and off-beat travel. Read her stuff on www.anitaisalska.com.

Anna KaminskiSabah; Brunei Darussalam Originally from the Soviet Union, Anna grew up in Cambridge, UK. She graduated from the University of Warwick with a degree in Comparative American Studies, a background in the history, culture and litera-ture of the Americas and the Caribbean, and an enduring love of Latin America. Her restless wanderings led her to settle briefly in Oaxaca and Bangkok, and her flirtation with criminal law saw her volunteering as a lawyer’s assistant in the

courts, ghettos and prisons of Kingston, Jamaica. Anna has contributed to almost 30 Lonely Planet titles. When not on the road, Anna calls London home.

Read more about Austin at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/osten_th

Read more about Ria at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/riadejong

Read more about Damian at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/damianharper

Read more about Anita at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/anitatravels

Read more about Anna at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/AnnaCohenKaminski


OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415314th edition – August 2019ISBN 978 1 78657 480 0© Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 201910 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSSimon RichmondKuala Lumpur Journalist and photographer Simon Richmond has specialised as a travel writer since the early 1990s and first worked for Lonely Planet in 1999 on their Central Asia guide. He’s long since stopped counting the number of guidebooks he’s researched and written for the company, but countries covered include Australia, China, India, Iran, Japan, Korea, Malaysia, Mongolia, Myanmar (Burma), Russia, Singapore, South Africa and Turkey. For Lonely Planet’s website

he’s penned features on topics from the world’s best swimming pools to the joys of urban sketch-ing. Simon also wrote most of the Plan Your Trip section and the Understand and Survival Guide sections of this book.

Brett AtkinsonSarawak Brett Atkinson is based in Auckland, New Zealand, but frequently on the road for Lonely Planet. He’s a full-time travel and food writer specialising in ad-venture travel, unusual destinations and surprising angles on more well-known destinations. Craft beer and street food are Brett’s favourite reasons to explore places. He is featured regularly on the Lonely Planet website, and in newspapers, magazines and websites across New Zealand and Australia. Since becoming a

Lonely Planet author in 2005, Brett has covered areas as diverse as Vietnam, Sri Lanka, the Czech Republic, New Zealand, Morocco, California and the South Pacific.

Lindsay BrownPeninsular Malaysia’s Northeast Lindsay started travelling as young bushwalker exploring the Blue Mountains west of Sydney. Then as a marine biologist he dived the coastal and island waters of southeastern Australia. He continued travelling whenever he could while employed at Lonely Planet as an editor and publishing manager. On becoming a freelance writer and photographer he has co-authored over 35 Lonely Planet guides to Australia, Bhutan, India, Malaysia,

Nepal, Pakistan and Papua New Guinea.

Read more about Simon at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/simonrichmond

Read more about Brett at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/BrettAtkinson

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malaysia, singapore & brunei 14 - preview · 2019-06-25 · stamps by taking the overland and...

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