malaysia, singapore & brunei 14 - preview · 2019-06-25 · stamps by taking the overland and...
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Simon Richmond, Brett Atkinson, Lindsay Brown, Austin Bush, Ria de Jong,
Damian Harper, Anita Isalska, Anna Kaminski
Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei
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Langkawi,Kedah
& Perlis(p193)
Pahang &Tioman Island(p254)
Perak(p127)
BruneiDarussalam
(p470)
Sarawak(p394)
Penang(p160)
Sabah(p316)
Selangor & NegeriSembilan (p108) Johor (p239)
Melaka(p217)
Peninsular Malaysia'sNortheast(p284)
Kuala Lumpur(p56)
Singapore(p490)
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Welcome to Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei . . . . . .6Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei Maps . . . . . . . . . .8Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei’s Top 21 . . . . . . .10Need to Know . . . . . . . . . 20First Time . . . . . . . . . . . . 22What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . 24If You Like… . . . . . . . . . . . 25Month by Month . . . . . . . 28Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 30Outdoor Adventures . . . . 36Eat & Drink Like a Local . . .44Regions at a Glance . . . . .51
KUALA LUMPUR . . . . 56
SELANGOR & NEGERI SEMBILAN . . . . . . . . 108Selangor . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110Batu Caves . . . . . . . . . . . . 110Forest Research Institute Malaysia . . . . . . . .111Genting Highlands . . . . . . .111Bukit Fraser . . . . . . . . . . . . 112Putrajaya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115Petaling Jaya & Shah Alam . . . . . . . . . . . .117
Klang & Pelabuhan Klang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118Kuala Selangor . . . . . . . . . 120Negeri Sembilan . . . . . . .121Seremban . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121Kuala Pilah . . . . . . . . . . . . 123Sri Menanti . . . . . . . . . . . . 124Port Dickson . . . . . . . . . . . 125
PERAK . . . . . . . . . . . .127Ipoh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129Gopeng & Around . . . . . . . 136Cameron Highlands . . . . . 138Pulau Pangkor . . . . . . . . . 145
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Contents
Kuala Kangsar . . . . . . . . . . 150Taiping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153Kuala Sepetang . . . . . . . . 157Belum-Temenggor Rainforest . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158
PENANG . . . . . . . . . . 160George Town . . . . . . . . . 162Greater Penang . . . . . . . 185Air Itam & Penang Hill . . . 185Batu Ferringhi . . . . . . . . . . 186Teluk Bahang & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188Balik Pulau & Kampung Pulau Betong . . . . . . . . . . 190
Southeast Penang Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192
LANGKAWI, KEDAH & PERLIS . . . . . . . . . 193Kedah . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194Pulau Langkawi . . . . . . . . 195Alor Setar . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211Around Alor Setar . . . . . . 214Kuala Kedah . . . . . . . . . . . 214Perlis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215Kangar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215Around Kangar . . . . . . . . . 216
MELAKA . . . . . . . . . . .217Melaka City . . . . . . . . . . . . 219Ayer Keroh . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237Alor Gajah . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238
JOHOR . . . . . . . . . . . 239Johor Bahru . . . . . . . . . . .240Muar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246Mersing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248Seribuat Archipelago . . . .250Endau-Rompin National Park . . . . . . . . . . 252
PAHANG & TIOMAN ISLAND . . 254Pulau Tioman . . . . . . . . 255The Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . 264Tanjung Gemok . . . . . . . . .264Pekan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .264Kuantan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265Cherating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270The Interior . . . . . . . . . . 273Temerloh & Around . . . . . 273Jerantut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274
Taman Negara . . . . . . . . . . 276Kuala Lipis . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281Raub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282
PENINSULAR MALAYSIA’S NORTHEAST . . . . . . 284Kelantan . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285Kota Bharu . . . . . . . . . . . . 285Around Kota Bharu . . . . . 293Terengganu . . . . . . . . . . 295Pulau Perhentian . . . . . . . 295Pulau Redang . . . . . . . . . .303Pulau Kapas . . . . . . . . . . .306Kuala Terengganu . . . . . . . 307North of Kuala Terengganu . . . . . . . . . . . . 314South of Kuala Terengganu . . . . . . . . . . . . 315
SABAH . . . . . . . . . . . 316Kota Kinabalu . . . . . . . . 318Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park . . . . . . . . 332Pulau Manukan . . . . . . . . . 332Pulau Mamutik . . . . . . . . . 332Pulau Sapi . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333Pulau Gaya . . . . . . . . . . . . 333Pulau Sulug . . . . . . . . . . . . 334Northwestern Sabah . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334Mt Kinabalu & Kinabalu National Park . . . . . . . . . . 334Around Mt Kinabalu . . . . . 342Northwest Coast . . . . . . . 343Island Getaways . . . . . . . .346Eastern Sabah . . . . . . . . 348Sandakan . . . . . . . . . . . . . .348Sepilok . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 354
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Sandakan Archipelago . . . . . . . . . . . . 358Deramakot Forest Reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 359Sungai Kinabatangan . . .360Lahad Datu . . . . . . . . . . . . 365Danum Valley Conservation Area . . . . . . 367Tabin Wildlife Reserve . . . 369Semporna . . . . . . . . . . . . . 370Semporna Archipelago . . . . . . . . . . . . 371Tawau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 378Tawau Hills Park . . . . . . . . 381Maliau Basin Conservation Area . . . . . . 382Southwestern Sabah . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 384Interior Sabah . . . . . . . . . .384Beaufort Division . . . . . . . 387Pulau Tiga National Park . . . . . . . . . . 389Pulau Labuan . . . . . . . . . .390
SARAWAK . . . . . . . . 394Kuching . . . . . . . . . . . . . 395Western Sarawak . . . . . 415Bako National Park . . . . . 416Santubong Peninsula . . . 419Semenggoh Wildlife Centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 422Annah Rais Longhouse . . . . . . . . . . . . . 422Kubah National Park . . . . 423Bau & Around . . . . . . . . . . 425Lundu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .426Gunung Gading National Park . . . . . . . . . . 427Tanjung Datu National Park . . . . . . . . . .429
Talang-Satang National Park . . . . . . . . . .430Batang Ai Region . . . . . . . 431Central Sarawak . . . . . . 432Sibu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 432Batang Rejang . . . . . . . . .436Bintulu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .440Similajau National Park . . . . . . . . . .443Niah National Park . . . . . .445Lambir Hills National Park . . . . . . . . . . 447Miri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .448Northeastern Sarawak . . . . . . . . . . . . . 455Gunung Mulu National Park . . . . . . . . . . 455Kelabit Highlands . . . . . . . 461Limbang Division . . . . . . .468
BRUNEI DARUSSALAM . . . . 470Bandar Seri Begawan . . . . . . . . . . . . . 472Tutong & Belait Districts . . . . . . . . . . . . . 484Tutong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .484Jalan Labi . . . . . . . . . . . . .484Seria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .485Temburong District . . . 485Bangar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .486Batang Duri . . . . . . . . . . . . 487Ulu Temburong National Park . . . . . . . . . . 487Brunei Survival Guide . . . . . . . . 488
SINGAPORE . . . . . . 490Singapore Survival Guide . . . . . . . . 559
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Contents
Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei Today . . . . . . . 566
History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 569
People, Culture & Politics . . . . . . . . . . . . 580
Religion . . . . . . . . . . . . . 586
Arts, Architecture & Media . . . . . . . . . . . . . 590
Environment . . . . . . . . . 596
Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 602
Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 610
Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .615
Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 620
Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 629
Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 638STILT HUTS, TAWAU P378
SURVIVAL GUIDE
UNDERSTAND
SPECIAL FEATURESOutdoor Adventures . . . 36Eat & Drink Like a Local . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Regional Specialties . . . 83
The Mega-Diversity Region . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 523
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Itineraries
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This itinerary cherry picks the best of the two countries with a focus on urban adven-tures but also with the chance to experience the region’s amazing biodiversity.
Spend your first three days in Malaysia’s capital Kuala Lumpur (KL) where you can explore cultural diversity in Chinatown, marvel at the soaring steel-clad Petronas Towers and discover the treasures of the Islamic Arts Museum.
Next head inland to Taman Negara. Even on a two-day visit to this magnificent national park you can clamber across the canopy walkway and do some short jungle hikes. Return to KL and hop on a flight to Penang where three days will give you a good taste of the heritage districts of George Town and other island highlights such as Kek Lok Si Temple.
Historic Melaka, another Unesco World Heritage Site, deserves a couple of nights but visit midweek to avoid the crowds. Then head across the causeway to Singapore where you can spend your final four days enjoying everything from maxing out your credit card at glitzy shopping malls and sampling delicious hawker food to visiting the eye-boggling space age architecture of Marina Bay and the excellent zoo and night safari.
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Starting on the Peninsula and finishing in the wilds of Borneo, this itinerary includes classic sights, some off-the-beaten-track gems and time to relax and take it all in.
Schedule a week in Kuala Lumpur and surrounds for sightseeing and acclimatisation. Day trips could include Batu Caves and Putrajaya, a showcase of modern Malaysian archi-tecture. The sleepy old royal capital of Kuala Selangor, near to which you can observe the dazzling natural display of fireflies, is also only a couple of hours’ drive from KL.
After a pit stop in Ipoh, which has some great colonial-era architecture and places to eat, your second week is spent in the cooler climate of the Cameron Highlands where you can take walks past verdant tea plantations. Return to the coast and hop across to Pulau Pangkor.
The urban delights of George Town, on Penang are up next; the city’s Unesco World Heritage district is packed with colourful, fascinating sights. This large island is also Malaysia’s number one food destination. A quick flight away are the resorts, gorgeous beaches and jungle hinterlands of Pulau Langkawi.
Into week four and it’s time to cross the mountainous spine of the peninsula to Kota Bharu, a great place to encounter traditional Malay culture. Island- and beach-hop down the east coast, pausing at Pulau Perhentian, Cherating and Pulau Tioman. Kenong Rimba State Park offers jungle adventures without the crowds.
Singapore can easily swallow up a week of shopping, museum viewing and world-class eating. From here you can fly to Kuching in Sarawak, a good base for a longhouse excursion or for arranging a trek in Gunung Mulu National Park. Rack up the visa stamps by taking the overland and river route from Sarawak to Sabah via Brunei stop-ping in the capital Bandar Seri Begawan.
Having made it to Kota Kinabalu, relax for a few days dipping into the art scene of Sabah’s capital or heading to the nearby islands of the Tunku Abdul Rahman Nation-al Park. Your final challenge, should you choose to accept it, is to climb Mt Kinabalu. Alternatively, it’s difficult to resist the chance to eyeball close up the supercute ginger apes at Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre.
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On this grand tour of Borneo tackle the island’s top five treks and enjoy some world-class diving and snorkelling plus encounters with endangered wildlife.
From Kuching explore the local long-houses and Bako National Park. Fly to Miri, which is the base for trips to the im-pressive Niah National Park and Bario in the vine-draped Kelabit Highlands.
Travel overland to Bandar Seri Bega-wan, Brunei’s capital. Also schedule in the sultanate’s Ulu Temburong National Park, a pristine sliver of primary rainforest.
Chill out in Kota Kinabalu before set-ting off for Mt Kinabalu. Catch some ape love at the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabili-tation Centre, followed by a layover in historic Sandakan. The mighty Sungai Kinabat angan offers wildlife enthusiasts plenty of photo fodder. If you’ve got the time (and the dime), head deep into Sa-bah’s green interior for a trek through the Danum Valley Conservation Area. The magnificent dive sites of the Semporna Archipelago accessed from Semporna provide an ideal climax.
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Ultimate Borneo
This abridged itinerary for the time- challenged offers a sample of the best of Malaysian Borneo, including top national parks, snaking rivers and time spent lounging on longhouse verandahs.
Start in Kota Kinabalu (KK), which encapsulates Southeast Asian city life on a manageable scale and where you’ll be obliged to spend a day or two sorting permits to tackle Sabah’s star attraction, Mt Kinabalu. Consider a day-trip cruise (including buffet dinner) down one of the tea-brown rivers in the Beaufort Divi-sion, or learn a little about the local cul-ture at the Mari Mari Cultural Village.
Leapfrog by plane from KK to Miri and then on to Gunung Mulu National Park, home to the world’s largest caves, and several challenging jungle treks, includ-ing the marathon Headhunters Trail. Pass through Miri once more for a flight down to Kuching. Sarawak’s capital is a real charmer and will easily keep you occupied for several days. Break up your time in town with a visit to Semenggoh Wildlife Centre, Bako National Park and, if you have time, to a longhouse such as Annah Rais Longhouse.
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The southern end of Peninsular Malaysia is no slouch in offering up a diverse range of travel experiences, plus there’s easy access to and from Singapore, the logical start and finish to this trip.
Leave yourself several days to soak up the island state of Singapore’s manifold attractions. If you’re strapped for cash then Johor Bahru just across the causeway is a cheaper base. It’s a decent hangout, not least for street food and nearby Legoland.
The lethargic riverside town of Muar has a colonial-era district that’s worth a look, and can be used as a base for assaults on Gunung Ledang, Johor’s highest moun-tain, located within the Gunung Ledang National Park. Recover in Unesco World Heritage Site–listed Melaka where you can spend several days enjoying the endur-ing Portuguese and Dutch influence.
Explore the last remaining stands of lowland forest on the peninsula in Endau-Rompin National Park. Stunning Pulau Tioman is the epitome of an island para-dise. Alternatively, indulge in some island-hopping and diving around the 64 gems of the Seribuat Archipelago.
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Idyllic islands, Malay culture, rainforests and hill stations all feature on this tour around the north of Peninsular Malaysia.
Explore Kuala Lumpur for a few days before heading to the east-coast resort of Cherating. Move on to Kuala Tereng-ganu, with its pretty Chinatown and the Kompleks Muzium Negeri Terengganu.
Next come the classic Perhentian islands, accessed from Kuala Besut. Pulau Perhentian Besar tends to be less crowded and just as gorgeous as its more popular twin, Pulau Perhentian Kecil. Back on the mainland, linger a day or two in Kota Bharu, for its museums, cultural events and night market, then head to the remote Royal Belum State Park in northern Perak.
Access more Malay culture in Kedah’s capital Alor Setar before taking the ferry from Kuala Perlis to Pulau Langkawi for sunbathing, island-hopping and jun-gle exploration. Fly to George Town, the essential stop on Penang, then cool down in the hill station of Bukit Fraser (Fraser’s Hill) before returning to KL.
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Melaka
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TAMANNEGERIPERLIS
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KENONG RIMBASTATE PARK
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Malaysia & Brunei: Off the Beaten Track
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Lined with flowers, trees this attractive village, reached by the Jungle railway, is an excellent exploration base of Kelantan’s interior including the amazing waterfalls in the Gunung stong state Park. (p295)
DABONG
this idyllic, tiny island off the northeast coast of Peninsular Malaysia, is a good diving base and with just three resorts, is quieter and less-developed than neighbouring islands such as the Perhentians. (p304)
PULAU LANG TENGAH
Home to a vast systems of caves and Malaysia’s only semideciduous forest, rich in wildlife, this small and remote state park runs for for 36km along the thai border. (p216)
TAMAN NEGERI PERLIS
said to resemble a pregnant woman laying on her back in the sea, this small, placid island, 10km off the southeast coast of Melaka, was once a retreat for Muslim mystics. (p238)
PULAU BESAR
not far from the Kalimantan border, deep in Murut country, this 600m jungle-topped limestone outcrop, riddled with caves, is a bucket-list challenge for rock climbers. (p387)
BATU PUNGGUL
at the northern tip of Brunei's temburong District, this 25-sq-km mangrove-forested island is an untamed habitat for proboscis monkeys and flying lemurs. (p487)
PULAU SELIRONGRECREATIONAL PARK
this seaside park's majestic mangroves are a habitat for monkeys, fireflies, estuarine crocodiles and countless varieties of fish and prawns. snub-nosed Irrawaddy dolphins can be spotted in the offshore waters. (p421)
KUCHING WETLANDS NATIONAL PARK
Laying deep in the heart of sabah you need to be on a tour to access this 25km-long canyon lined with pristine rainforest and hemmed in by immense sandstone cliffs. (p359)
IMBAK CANYONCONSERVATION AREA
a far less visited alternative to Malaysia's premier national park, this sprawling area of lowland forest rises to the limestone foothills bordering taman negara itself. (p282)
KENONG RIMBASTATE PARK
accessed from the town of Bekok in Johor, this forest offers trekking routes, campsites and waterfalls and gently cascading rivers in which you can swim. (p248)
SUNGAI BANTANG RECREATIONAL FOREST
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SUMATRAINDONESIA
KALIMANTANINDONESIA
SARAWAKMALAYSIA
SABAHMALAYSIA
MYANMAR
PHILIPPINESTHAILAND
VIETNAM
MALAYSIA
BRUNEIDARUSSALAM
Gulf ofThailand
S O U T HC H I N A
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I N D I A NO C E A N
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Strait ofMelaka
Sibolga
Sandakan
Taiping
Ipoh Semporna
Alor Setar
KotaKinabalu
Medan
George Town
Kuching
Melaka
Kuantan
KotaBharu
JohorBahru
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KualaTerengganu
Putrajaya
Kangar
BANDAR SERIBEGAWAN
SINGAPORE
KUALALUMPUR
#•
TAMANNEGERIPERLIS
PULAULANG
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DABONG
KENONG RIMBASTATE PARK
SUNGAI BANTANGRECREATIONAL
FOREST
PULAUBESAR
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RECREATIONALPARK
BATUPUNGGUL
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Lined with flowers, trees this attractive village, reached by the Jungle railway, is an excellent exploration base of Kelantan’s interior including the amazing waterfalls in the Gunung stong state Park. (p295)
DABONG
this idyllic, tiny island off the northeast coast of Peninsular Malaysia, is a good diving base and with just three resorts, is quieter and less-developed than neighbouring islands such as the Perhentians. (p304)
PULAU LANG TENGAH
Home to a vast systems of caves and Malaysia’s only semideciduous forest, rich in wildlife, this small and remote state park runs for for 36km along the thai border. (p216)
TAMAN NEGERI PERLIS
said to resemble a pregnant woman laying on her back in the sea, this small, placid island, 10km off the southeast coast of Melaka, was once a retreat for Muslim mystics. (p238)
PULAU BESAR
not far from the Kalimantan border, deep in Murut country, this 600m jungle-topped limestone outcrop, riddled with caves, is a bucket-list challenge for rock climbers. (p387)
BATU PUNGGUL
at the northern tip of Brunei's temburong District, this 25-sq-km mangrove-forested island is an untamed habitat for proboscis monkeys and flying lemurs. (p487)
PULAU SELIRONGRECREATIONAL PARK
this seaside park's majestic mangroves are a habitat for monkeys, fireflies, estuarine crocodiles and countless varieties of fish and prawns. snub-nosed Irrawaddy dolphins can be spotted in the offshore waters. (p421)
KUCHING WETLANDS NATIONAL PARK
Laying deep in the heart of sabah you need to be on a tour to access this 25km-long canyon lined with pristine rainforest and hemmed in by immense sandstone cliffs. (p359)
IMBAK CANYONCONSERVATION AREA
a far less visited alternative to Malaysia's premier national park, this sprawling area of lowland forest rises to the limestone foothills bordering taman negara itself. (p282)
KENONG RIMBASTATE PARK
accessed from the town of Bekok in Johor, this forest offers trekking routes, campsites and waterfalls and gently cascading rivers in which you can swim. (p248)
SUNGAI BANTANG RECREATIONAL FOREST
35PLAN
YOUR TRIP O
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SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.
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OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edi-tion and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Ameer Hamza, Andrew Lamère, Charlotte Crawford, Dale Follas, Edwin Heeregrave, Evelin Mueller, Hanna Becker, J Welch, Jean-Philippe Mauve, Ken Wilson, Nadia Vendrig, Nicolas Combremont, Owen Davies, Sally Arnold, Simone and Sergine Verswijveren, Steve Mair, Steven Hankey, Susanne Mathys, Tim Marlow, Tom Micciche.
WRITER THANKSSimon RichmondTerima kasih to the following who assisted with my research in Malaysia: Ng Seksan, Andrew Sebastian, Narelle, Brian and Andrew, Mei Yun (Elena), Melissa Low, Baida Herbus and Mienal Hussein.
Brett AtkinsonIn Kuching, terima kasih to Donald and Marina, Wayne, Danny and Purdey, and thanks to Louise in Santubong. Around Batang Ai, Bading effortlessly led the way, and Lucy, David and Lian (x2) made visiting Bario an absolute highlight. Also in Bario it was good to meet the Mild Men of Borneo, Alasdair, Jason and Giles. Cheers also to Mr Lim, Daniel and Jason Brooke. Final thanks to Tanya Parker at Lonely Planet and my Borneo co-authors Anna and Paul.
Lindsay BrownI am very grateful for the assistance provided by numerous friendly folks across Malaysia’s northeast. In particular, I would like to thank Lorenz in Kuala Terengganu, Zeck in Kota Bharu and Bukhari ‘Bob’ Mat in Dabong. Thanks to Jenny for being the best travelling companion.
Austin BushThanks to all the kind folks on the ground in Malaysia, in particular Bairavi Shanmugam, Narelle McMurtrie, Wanida Razali and the cats at Temple Tree.
Ria de JongThank you to my destination editor Tanya Parker for all her help guiding me through my Lonely Planet adventure, and to all those I met along my travels who kindly shared their knowledge, time and Singa-pore secrets with me. Thanks also to Craig, Cisca and William, my travelling circus tribe.
Damian HarperMany thanks to everyone who helped along the way, especially Allan Rodrigo Balang, Peck Choo Ho, Carl Lim, Celeste Brash, Shaowen, Ruth, Pei Lee Yeoh, Johnny Doran, Rupert Maconick, Sue, the helpful staff at Hotel Sentral Kuantan, Haziq, Rudin Zulkarnain Voon, Tim and Emma, and much gratitude and a tip of the hat to everyone else who proffered tips and suggestions along the way.
Behind the Scenes
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
628
BEHIN
D THE SCEN
ES
Anita IsalskaBig thanks to all the travellers who shared their travel tips and tribulations with me – you helped make this trip. I’m grateful for the local insights and advice of Val and the Father’s Guesthouse team, Jason Marcus Chin, Andrew Sebastian, Jaja Taher, Jennifer Freely and Howard Tan – terima kasih. Special thanks to Normal Matt for facing highland roads (and his food demons) to join my research.
Anna KaminskiHuge thanks to Tanya for entrusting me with Sabah and Brunei, and to everyone who’s helped me along the way. In particular: Thanis Lim and Leslie in BSB;
William, Wendy and Tom in KK; Shavez in Tawau Hills; Itisha and Simon in Lahad Datu; Howard at the Tip of Borneo; Anton and Linn in Sandakan; Wong in Sepilok; Sitti in Deramakot; Afiq on the Kinabatangan; and my guides on Mt Kinabalu, in Danum Valley and Tabin Wildlife Reserve.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol-ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44.Cover photograph: Street art along the Melaka River, Melaka; Richard Taylor/4Corners ©
THIS BOOKThis 14th edition of Lonely Planet’s Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei guidebook was curated by Simon Richmond, and researched and written by Simon, Brett Atkinson, Lindsay Brown, Austin Bush, Ria de Jong, Damian Harper, Anita Isalska and Anna Kaminski. The previous edition was writ-ten by Isabel Albiston, Brett Atkinson, Greg Benchwick, Cristian Bonetto, Austin Bush, Anita Isalska, Robert Scott Kelly, Simon Richmond and Richard Waters. This
guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editor Tanya ParkerSenior Product Editor Kate ChapmanRegional Senior Cartographer Julie SheridanProduct Editor Will AllenBook Designer Fergal CondonAssisting Editors Sarah Bailey, Andrew Bain, James Bainbridge, Judith Bamber, Nigel Chin, Michelle Coxall, Jacqueline Danam, Anne Mulvaney, Rosie Nicholson, Monica Woods
Cartographers Hunor Csutoros, Julie DodkinsCover Researcher Wibowo RusliThanks to Jennifer Carey, Helen Elfer, Bruce Evans, Martin Heng, David Hodges, Kate James, Alicia Johnson, Amy Lynch, Hugh McNaughtan, Kate Morgan, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Niamh O’Brien, Genna Patterson, Monique Perrin, Gary Rafferty, Jessica Ryan, Eleanor Simpson, James Smart
629
Index
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
AAbai 364-5accessible travel 602
Singapore 559accommodation 22, 602-4,
see also accommodation types individual locations
booking 603budgeting 73, 604language , 620-1
activities 36-43, see also individual activities
adventure sports 519AIDS 616Air Itam 185-6air travel 610, 611-12airports 21Alor Gajah 238Alor Setar 211-14, 213ambuyat 479amusement parks
Escape 189Jerudong Park
Playground 476Legoland 243Melaka Wonderland 237-8Skytrex Melaka 237Sunway Lagoon 117Universal Studios 517-18
animals 27, 339, 523-32, see also individual animals
animism 588Annah Rais Longhouse 422-3anti-Semitism 589apartments 603
George Town 175Kuala Lumpur 77
aquariumsAquaria KLCC 61SEA Aquarium 517Underwater World 195
architecture 25, 594-5Minangkabau 124
area codes 21art galleries, see galleries,
museumsArt Printing Works 95arts 590-4, see also individ-
ual art formsasam laksa 46, 47, 83ATMs 606ayam percik 88Ayer Keroh 237-8
BBa Kelalan 467-8Badawi, Abdullah 577Bako National Park 416-19Bakun Dam 440Balik Pulau 190-2ballooning 116Bandar Labuan 390-3, 391Bandar Seri Begawan 472-
84, 474accommodation 477-8activities 477drinking & nightlife 480-1emergencies 481entertainment 481food 478-80internet access 481media 481medical services 482money 482postal services 482shopping 481sights 472-6telephone services 482tours 477travel to/from 482-3travel within 483-4
Bangar 486-7bargaining 23Bario 462-4Bario rice 466Batang Ai 431-2Batang Duri 487Batang Rejang 436-40bathrooms 607-8
batik courses 71, 270, 288bats 446Batu Caves 17, 110-11, 17Batu Ferringhi 186-8Batu Gajah 137Batu Maung 192Batu Punggul 16, 387, 16Bau 425-6Bawang Assan Longhouse
Village 432beaches
Batu Ferringhi 186-8Beserah Beach 266Pantai Cahaya Bulan 293-4Pantai Cenang 195Pantai Kok 197-8Pantai Pasir Hitam 199Pantai Pasir Tengkorak 198Pantai Seri Kenangan 484Pantai Tengah 196-7Peranginan Pantai
Muara 476Pulau Libaran 359Pulau Mamutik 332Pulau Manukan 332Pulau Perhentian 298Pulau Sapi 333Sentosa Island 517Tanjung Aru 322, 328Teluk Kumbar 192Tempurung 388Tip of Borneo 345
bears 355Beaufort 387-8Beaufort Division 387-9bedbugs 616bees 618belacan 87Belaga 439-40Belait 484-5Belum-Temenggor
Rainforest 158-9Besar 298-300bicycle travel 612, see
also cyclingBidong Island 310, 314, 528Bilit 363
Bintulu 440-3, 442bird-watching 27
Danum Valley Conservation Area 368
Gunung Mulu National Park 455
Jurong Bird Park 515KL Bird Park 63Labuan Bird Park 391Vale Eco Center 145
birds 527birds nests 361boat cruises
Kuching 404boat travel 611, 612boat trips 43
Bako National Park 417-18Bandar Seri Begawan 477Kuching 404Sabah 361Similajau National
Park 443Taman Negara 278
books 566, 584, 586history 570, 571, 573, 575,
577, 578border crossings
Brunei Darussalam 393, 454, 482, 483
Indonesia 236, 245, 381, 414, 467, 562
Singapore 246Thailand 211, 214, 215, 293
Brunei Darussalam 54, 470-89, 471
accommodation 470, 489budgeting 488-9climate 470emergencies 489food 92, 470, 488highlights 471holidays 489legal issues 489LGBT+ travellers 489media 595money 488people 583
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
630
IND
EX B-E
Brunei Darussalam continued
politics 585postal services 489telephone services 489time 489tourist information 489travel seasons 470visas 489weather 470women travellers 489
Buddhism 586-7Buddhist temples
Buddha Tooth Relic Temple 501
Dhammikarama Burmese Buddhist Temple 170
Dharma Realm Guan Yin Sagely Monastery 62
Kek Lok Si Temple 186Kong Meng San
Phor Kark See Monastery 514
Puh Toh Tze Buddhist Temple 321-2
Puu Jih Syh Temple 349Sam Poh Temple 139Sin Sze Si Ya Temple 63Thean Hou Temple 66-7Tumpat 294Wat Buppharam 171Wat Chayamangkalaram
169-70Wat Nikrodharam 212
budgeting 21, 604, 605Brunei Darussalam 488-9Singapore 559, 560
Bukit Fraser 112-15, 113Bukit Larut 158Bukit Tambun 191bumiputra 576bus travel 610-11, 612business hours 21, 606
Singapore 560butterflies 67, 190, 531Butterworth 185
CCameron Highlands 12,
138-45, 140, 12accommodation 141-3drinking 143-5food 143-5information 144-5sights 139-41tours 141
travel to/from 145travel within 145
camping 603canopy walks 368car travel 612-13carbon emissions 598, 610cartoons 594cathedrals, see churches
& cathedralscats 403caves 27
Agop Batu Tulug 360Batu Caves 17, 110-11, 17Clearwater Cave 456Dabong 295Deer Cave 456, 531, 530Fairy Cave 426Gomantong Caves 360-1Great Cave 445, 446Gua Charas 268Gua Kelam 216Gua Tempurung 136Kek Look Tong 130Lang Cave 456Langang Cave 457Painted Cave 445Perak Tong 130, 26Pungiton Caves 387Sam Poh Tong 130Sleeping Buddha
Cave 268Taman Negeri Perlis 216Wind Cave (Bau) 425-6Wind Cave (Gunung Mulu
National Park) 456caving 40-1, 426, 457cell phones 20cemeteries
Bukit China 226Chinese Cemetery
(Sandakan) 349Japanese Cemetery
(Sandakan) 349Labuan War
Cemetery 391Protestant Cemetery 169
char kway teow 86Cherating 270-2, 271children, travel with 72,
604, 618-19Chiling Waterfalls 114China House 178Chinatown
Kuala Lumpur 62-3, 73-6, 82-93, 98-9, 102
Kuala Terengganu 309-10Kuching 401-2, 403Melaka City 224-5
Chinese opera 592Chinese people 580
churches & cathedralsAll Saints Church 153Christ Church 220St Andrew’s
Cathedral 498-9St Michael’s & All Angels
Church 349-50St Paul’s Church 220-1St Peter’s Church 226
cinema 592-3, see also filmsclanhouses 163climate 20, 28-9, see also
individual regionsclimate change 610clothing 22clouded leopards 524,
524-5clubs 549coffin caves 360Confucianism 586-7conservation, see environ-
mental issuesconsulates 604-5cooking courses 45, 71,
226-7, 288, 323Kuching 405Penang 171Singapore 522
coral 528, 528-9costs 21courses, see also individual
locationsbatik 71, 270, 288cooking 45, 71, 171, 226-
7, 288, 323, 405, 522crabs 547crafts 27, 594Crazy Rich Asians 593credit cards 606
Singapore 560crocodiles 443culture 580-5currency 20, 606
Brunei Darussalam 488Singapore 560
customs regulations 604Singapore 559
cycling 37, 612Kuala Lumpur 70-1
DDabong 295dams 598-9dangers, see safetydance 591Danum Valley Conservation
Area 367-9Darul Hana Bridge 395Dayak people 582-3deforestation 596-7
dengue fever 616departure tax 611diarrhoea 616-17disabilities, travellers
with 602diving & snorkelling 11, 13,
41, 528Bandar Seri Begawan 477Kota Belud 344Labuan 391-2Miri 448Pulau Kapas 306Pulau Langkawi 202Pulau Perhentian 296-7responsible diving 43safety 617Semporna
Archipelago 373Tanjung Datu National
Park 429Tioman Island 257, 256-8Tip of Borneo 345tours 322-4
drama 591drinking & nightlife see
individual locationsdrinks, see fooddriving see car traveldriving licences 613
Singapore 563durian 49, 48
EEast Coast Malaysia,
see Peninsular Malaysia’s Northeast, Pahang, Tioman Island
economy 567ecosystems 532electricity 602, 604
Singapore 559elephants 273, 527embassies 604-5
Brunei Darussalam 489Singapore 559
emergencies 21language 622
Emergency 574Endau-Rompin National
Park 252-3, 253ntertainment, see individ-
ual locationsenvironmental issues 596-
600, 610websites 597, 598, 600
etiquette 23, 46Eurasian people 581-2events, see festivals &
eventsexchange rates 21
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
631IN
DEX F-I
Ffasting 50festivals & events 17, 28-9,
see also music festivals, individual locations, individual festivals
Islamic 587films 566, 577fireflies 120, 314fish 528flying foxes 527, 527folk medicine 619food 23, 83-92, 10-11,
23, 83-92, see also cooking courses, indi-vidual foods, individual locations
blogs 80budgeting 605Burmese 539etiquette 46food courts 545language 621-2street food 11, 45-50, 179
Free Tree Society 96fruit 49
Ggado gado 380galleries 26-7, see also
museums, street artArt Porters 503Bank Negara Malaysia
Museum & Art Gallery 69
Batik Painting Museum Penang 165-6
Galeri Petronas 61Gillman Barracks 516Hin Bus Depot 169ILHAM 57Junglebluesdream Art
Gallery 462Kampong Ayer Cultural
& Tourism Gallery 473National Gallery Singa-
pore 19, 497, 19National Visual Arts
Gallery 67-9Perakanan Photo
Gallery 310Sabah Art Gallery 319Sekeping Tenggiri 67Zheng He Duo Yun
Xuan 225gardens, see parks &
gardensGardens by the Bay 491,
496-7, 26gay travellers, see LGBT+
travellers
Genting Highlands 111-12geography 596geology 334-5George Town 12, 24, 162-
85, 164-5, 168, 170, 12accommodation 173-6drinking & nightlife 180-1entertainment 181-2food 177-80internet access 183medical services 183money 183postal services 183shopping 182-3sights 162-71tourist information 183travel to/from 183-4travel within 184-5walking tour 168, 168
gibbons 524Gillman Barracks 516Golden Mile Complex 539golf 519Gopeng 136-8government 579guesthouses 603Gunung Bengoh 426Gunung Mulu National Park
455-61, 39
HHari Raya Aidil Fitri 473hawker stalls, see street
foodhealth 615-19
websites 615heat 617hepatitis 616high tea 540hiking 15, 36-7, 38
Bako National Park 417-18
Batang Ai National Park 431
Bukit Fraser 112-13Cameron Highlands 139Danum Valley Conserva-
tion Area 367-8guides 458, 464Gunung Gading National
Park 427-8Gunung Mulu National
Park 455-9Kelabit Highlands 466-7Kuala Lipis 281Kubah National Park 424Lambir Hills National
Park 447Limbang Division 468
Maliau Basin Conserva-tion Area 382
Matang Wildlife Centre 425
Mt Kinabalu 335-9Niah National Park 445Penang National Park 189preparation 278Pulau Perhentian 297-8safety 38, 258, 278, 367Similajau National
Park 443Sungai Kinabatangan 362Taman Negara 276-7Tanjung Datu National
Park 429Tioman Island 258tours 322-4Ulu Temburong National
Park 488Hindu temples
Arulmigu Rajamariam-man Devasthanam 241
Arulmigu Sri Rajakaliam-man 241
Sri Mahamariamman Temple 63
Sri Mariamman Temple 171
Sri Poyatha Venayagar Moorthi Temple 225
Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple 505-6
Sri Subramaniam Thuropathai Amman Alayam 226
Sri Vadapathira Kaliam-man Temple 504-5
Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple 504
Hinduism 587historic buildings & sites
8 Heeren Street 225Astana 404Balai Besar 212Balai Nobat 212Batu Bersurat 147Blue Mansion 162-3Bukit Malawati 120Fort Cornwallis 167Hock Teik Cheng Sin
Temple 166Kota Belanda 147Loke Mansion 69Master Mat’s House 97Old Court House
Complex 400Old KL Train Station 67Pinang Peranakan
Mansion 163-4Porta de Santiago 224
Rumah Penghulu Abu Seman 61
Sandakan Memorial Park 348-9
St Francis’ Institution Melaka 221
Stadthuys 219-20Teck Soon Heritage
House 309-10TT5 Tin Dredge 137Villa Sentosa 225
history 569-79books 570, 571, 573, 575,
577, 578Borneo 572bumiputra 576Dutch rule 570-1East India Company 571Emergency 574ethnic tensions
574, 575GE13 578Kedah 195Kuala Lumpur 57lost flights 578-9Melaka 218-19Melaka Empire 570Penang 161-2Perak 129Portuguese rule 570-1Sabah 334Sarawak 395Selangor & Negeri
Sembilan 110Singapore 491websites 574, 576WWII 573
hitching 613HIV 616holidays 606-7
Brunei Darussalam 489Singapore 560-1
homestays 364honey 140-1hor fun 86hornbills 527, 526hostels 603hotels 603
IIbrahim, Anwar 566, 577-8ikan patin 88Imbak Canyon Conserva-
tion Area 359Indian people 581influenza 616insurance 605internet access 605
Singapore 559
632
IND
EX I-M
internet resources, see websites
Ipoh 129-36, 132-3accommodation 131-3activities 131drinking & nightlife 135food 133-5shopping 135sights 130tours 131travel to/from 135-6travel within 136
Islam 567, 570, 586Islamic festivals 587islands 27, see also Pulau
entriesitineraries 30-5, 30, 31,
32, 33, 34-5Singapore 497
JJalan Labi 484-5jellyfish 203Jerantut 274-5, 275Jerudong 476Johor 52, 239-53, 240
accommodation 239climate 239food 89, 239highlights 240travel seasons 239weather 239
Johor Bahru 24, 240-6, 242Jonker Walk Night Market
18, 18jungles 524
KKampong Ayer 17, 472-3, 17Kampung Air Batang
259, 260Kampung Baru 97Kampung Benuk 423Kampung Genting 259, 262Kampung Juara 259, 261Kampung Kuala Tahan 278-9Kampung Mukut 259, 262Kampung Nipah 259, 262Kampung Papan 137Kampung Paya 259, 262Kampung Pulau
Betong 190-2Kampung Salang 259, 260-1Kampung Tekek 259-60Kangar 215-16
Kapit 437-9, 438kari kepala ikan 90kayaking 41-3Kebun-Kebun Bangsar 96Kecil 300-3Kedah 52, 193-4, 194-215,
194climate 193food 87highlights 194history 195travel seasons 193weather 193
Kelabit Highlands 15, 461-8, 15
Kelantan 285-94Keningau 386Kenong Rimba State
Park 282kerangas 532kidnappings 376Kinabalu National
Park 334-42Kinabatangan Orangutan
Conservation Project 361Kinabatangan River 360-5Kinta Valley 137Klang 118-20Kota Belud 344Kota Bharu 19, 285-93,
289, 19accommodation 288-90courses 288drinking & nightlife 292festivals & events 288food 290-2information 292shopping 292sights 285-8tours 288travel to/from 292travel within 293
Kota Kinabalu 318-31, 320, 85, 92
accommodation 324-6activities 322-4cuisine 326drinking & nightlife 328-9emergencies 329food 326-8immigration 329laundry 329medical services 329money 329postal services 329shopping 329sights 318-22tourist information
329-30tours 322-4
travel to/from 330-1travel within 331
Kota Tinggi 248Kuala Besut 302Kuala Kangsar 150-3, 152Kuala Kedah 214-15Kuala Keniam 279Kuala Kubu Bharu 114Kuala Lipis 281-2Kuala Lumpur 18, 51, 56-
107, 58-9, 60, 64-5, 68, 70, 74-5, 78, 18, 90-1
accommodation 56, 72-9, 105
activities 69-71climate 56courses 71-2drinking & nightlife 97entertainment 100-1festivals & events 72food 56, 79-82, 91, 93-7for children 72highlights 58-9history 57immigration 104internet access 104itineraries 62LGBT+ travellers 100media 104medical services 104money 104postal services 104shopping 101-4sights 57-69tourist information 104travel seasons 56travel to/from 104-5travel within 105-7weather 56
Kuala Perkai 279Kuala Pilah 123-4Kuala Selangor 120-1Kuala Sepetang 157-8Kuala Terengganu 307-
14, 308Kuantan 265-9, 266Kubah National Park 423-5Kuching 14, 395-415,
398-9, 14accommodation 406-8activities 404-5drinking & nightlife 411embassies &
consulates 412emergencies 412festivals & events 405-6food 408-11laundry 412-13medical services 413
money 413police 413postal services 413safety 412shopping 411-12sights 395-404tourist information 413tours 405travel to/from 413-14travel within 415visas 413
Kuching Wetlands National Park 421
Kudat 344-5kuih 85
LLahad Datu 365-7language 20, 23, 620-4Layang Layang 347-8, 42Lee Kuan Yew 567leeches 367, 617legal matters 605
Brunei Darussalam 489Singapore 559
legends 204Legoland 243Lenggong Valley 24, 151leopards 524lesbian travellers, see
LGBT+ travellersLGBT+ travellers 100, 605-6
Brunei Darussalam 489Singapore 551
librariesNational Library
(Singapore) 500lice 617-18Limbang Division 468-9literature 590-1, see
also booksLong Pasia 385longhouses 15, 583,
603-4, 15Annah Rais Longhouse
422-3Bario Asal Longhouse 461Batang Rejang basin 444Bawang Assan Long-
house Village 432Belaga 439Labi Longhouses 484-5
Lundu 426-7
Mmacaques 418Mah Meri Cultural Village 119malaria 616Malay people 580
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
633IN
DEX M
Maliau Basin 383Maliau Basin Conservation
Area 382-3mangroves 532maps 606Marang 315Marina Bay Sands 499markets 19, 102, 84-5, 86-7
Bangsar Sunday Market 93
Bau 426Bazaar Baru Chow Kit 102Chinatown Wet
Market 102George Town 176Jonker Walk Night
Market 18, 18Kapit 437Kota Kinabalu 318Kuala Terengganu 309Kuching 404, 410Masjid India Pasar
Malam 93Melaka City 232Miri 448Pudu Market 102Pulau Langkawi 208Singapore 505, 511
massageSingapore 519-21
media 595medical services 615medicine, traditional 619mee jawa 380mee rebus 88-9megaliths
Bario 463Pengkalan Kempas
Megalith Site 125Melaka 18, 52, 217-38,
218, 18accommodation 217climate 217entertainment 24food 89, 217highlights 218history 218-19travel seasons 217weather 217
Melaka City 219-37, 220, 222-3
accommodation 228-30activities 226drinking & nightlife 233-4entertainment 234festivals & events 227-8food 230-3information 236shopping 234-6
sights 219-26tours 227travel to/from 236-7travel within 237
memorials, see monu-ments & memorials, WWII sites & memorials
Merang 314Mersing 248-50, 249Minangkabau people 124Miri 448-55, 450mobile phones 20Mohamad, Mahathir 566,
575-6, 579money 20, 21, 606
bargaining 23Brunei Darussalam 488exchange rates 21Singapore 560tipping 23
monkeys 356, 389, 418, 524, 525
monuments & memorialsBillionth Barrel
Monument 485German Girl Shrine 511Great Cat of Kuching 403Kota Mahsuri 199Kranji War Memorial 517Kucing Kucing 403Kundasang War Memo-
rial 342Melaka Malay Sultanate
Water Wheel 221Memorial Stone 388National Monument 66Pialungan Sanda-
kan-Ranau Death March Memorial 342
Sunsuron Guritom 385Tom Harrisson
Monument 462mosques 25
Abdul Gafoor Mosque 505
City Mosque (Kota Kinabalu) 319-20
Indian Mosque 402Masjid A R Rahman
Pulau Perhentian 296Masjid Diraja Sultan
Suleiman 118Masjid Jamek Sultan
Abdul Samad 62Masjid Kampung
Hulu 225Masjid Kampung
Kling 225Masjid Kapitan
Keling 167-9Masjid Negara 67
Masjid Negeri Sembilan 122
Masjid Selat Melaka 219Masjid Sultan Ahmad
Shah 265Masjid Sultan Salahuddin
Abdul Aziz Shah 117Masjid Tengku Tengah
Zaharah 310Masjid Ubudiah 151Masjid Zahir 211Omar Ali Saifuddien
Mosque 17, 472, 17, 589Putra Mosque 115Semporna Mosque 370Sultan Abu Bakar
Mosque 241Sultan Mosque 507Tuanku Mizan Zainal
Abidin Mosque 115Zainal Abidin Mosque 310
mosquitoes 280motorcycle travel 612-13mountain climbing 37-40,
335-9Mt Kinabalu 13, 334-42,
532, 337, 340, 13, 532accommodation 339-41climbing 335-9flora & fauna 339food 341geology 334-5history 334planning 335travel to/from 341-2
Mt Trusmadi 385-6Muar 246-8Muhammad V, Sultan 568multiculturalism 584murals 24, 247, 501, see
also street artmuseums 26, see also
galleriesAgnes Keith House 348Art Museum 403Asia Camera Museum 166Asian Civilisations
Museum 497-8Baba House 501Baba & Nyonya Heritage
Museum 224-5Bank Negara Malaysia
Museum & Art Gallery 69
Battlebox 498Brunei Darussalam
Maritime Museum 475Brunei Museum 474-5Cathay Gallery 509Changi Museum &
Chapel 510
Cheng Ho Cultural Museum 225
Chetti Museum 226Chinatown Heritage
Centre 501Chinese Heritage
Museum 241Chinese History
Museum 400Dusun Museum 385Forestry Museum 485Former Ford Factory 24,
513-14Fort Margherita 404Fort Siloso 517Fort Sylvia 437Galeri Diraja Sultan
Abdul Aziz 118Galeri Sultan Abdul
Halim 212Galeria Perdana 199House of Yeap Chor
Ee 166Images of Singapore
Live 518Indian Heritage
Centre 503-4Interpretation Centre
(Bako National Park) 416
Interpretation Centre (Matang Wildlife Centre) 425
Interpretation Centre (Similajau National Park) 443
Islamic Arts Museum 63Islamic Heritage
Museum 402Istana Batu 288Istana Heritage
Gallery 509Istana Jahar 285Istana Kenangan 151-2Istana Lama 124Katong Antique
House 511Klang Fire Station 118Komik Asia 169Kompleks Muzium
Negeri Terengganu 310Labuan Marine
Museum 390-1Labuan Museum 390Laman Padi 195Lau King Howe Memorial
Museum 432Lee Kong Chian Natural
History Museum 515-16
Lenggong Archaeological Gallery 151
634
IND
EX M-P
museums continuedLimbang Regional
Museum 468Mahathir’s Birthplace 212Malay Heritage
Centre 507Malay Technology
Museum 473-4Mari Mari Cultural
Village 319Maritime Museum &
Naval Museum 220Monsopiad Cultural
Village 320-1Mulu Discovery
Centre 455Museum of Islamic
Civilisation 321Muzium Darul
Ridzuan 130Muzium Diraja Kedah 212Muzium Islam 285Muzium Kota Kayang 215Muzium Negeri 212Muzium Negeri
Kelanta 285Muzium Negeri
Sembilan 121-2Muzium Padi 214Muzium Perak 153National Museum
(Malaysia) 63National Museum of
Singapore 498Natural History
Museum 403Niah Archaeology
Museum 445NUS Museum 515Oil & Gas Discovery
Centre 485Pahang Art Museum 265Penang Museum 167Peranakan Museum 498Petroleum Museum
(Miri) 448Petrosains 61Ranee Museum 24, 400Red Dot Design Museum
24, 499Royal Abu Bakar
Museum 241Royal Museum 67Royal Regalia
Museum 472Rungus Museum 345Sabah Museum 318-19SAM at 8Q 500
Sarawak Cultural Village 419-20
Sarawak Museum 402Sarawak Textile
Museum 401Sibu Heritage Centre 432Singapore City
Gallery 503Sultan Azlan Shah
Gallery 151Sultanate Palace 224Teochew Puppet & Opera
House 166music 591-2music festivals
Borneo Jazz 449Penang Island Jazz
Festival 187Rainforest World Music
Festival 406
Nnasi kerabu 89nasi kuning 380National Gallery
Singapore 19, 19national parks & nature
reserves 25, 27, 40Bako National Park
416-19Batang Ai National
Park 431Bukit Gemok Forest
Reserve 378Bukit Mas Nature
Reserve 468Bukit Patoi Recreational
Park 486Bukit Timah Nature
Reserve 514Cape Rachado Forest
Reserve 125Chek Jawa Wetlands 511Crocker Range National
Park 384Danum Valley Conserva-
tion Area 367-9Deramakot Forest
Reserve 359-60Endau-Rompin National
Park 252-3Forest Research Institute
Malaysia 111Gunung Gading
National Park 427-9Gunung Ledang National
Park 247Gunung Mulu
National Park 455-61, 39
Gunung Stong State Park 295
Habitat, the 186Imbak Canyon Conserva-
tion Area 359Kenong Rimba State
Park 282Kilim Karst Geoforest
Park 198-9Kinabalu National Park
334-42Kubah National Park
423-5Kuching Wetlands
National Park 421Labrador Nature
Reserve 516Labuan Marine Park 391Lambir Hills National
Park 447Luagan Lalak Recreation
Park 484MacRitchie Reservoir 514Maliau Basin Conserva-
tion Area 382-3Niah National Park 445-7Penang National Park 189Pulau Selirong Recrea-
tional Park 487Pulau Tiga National
Park 389Rainforest Discovery
Centre 355-6Royal Belum State
Park 158-9Similajau National
Park 443-5Soga Perdana Recrea-
tional Forest 248Southern Ridges 515Sungai Bantang Recrea-
tional Forest 248Talang-Satang National
Park 430-1Taman Alam Kuala
Selangor 120Taman Negara 276-81Taman Negeri Perlis 216Taman Tugu 24Tambunan Rafflesia
Reserve 384-5Tampat Do Aman Nature
Reserve 345Tanjung Datu
National Park 429-30Tanjung Piai National
Park 248Tawau Hills Park 381-2Teluk Bahang Forest
Reserve 189-90Tunku Abdul Rahman
National Park 332-4Ulu Temburong National
Park 487-8
Negeri Sembilan 51, 108-9, 121-6, 109
accommodation 108climate 108food 91, 108highlights 109history 110travel seasons 108weather 108
newspapers 602Singapore 561
notable buildings, see also historic buildings & sites
Atkinson Clock Tower 318Bangunan Sultan
Ibrahim 241Emerald Hill Road 507-9Heritage District (Johor
Bahru) 241Istana Kehakiman 115-16Kampung Baru
Gateway 69King George V School 122Kompleks Perdadanan
Putrajaya 116Kuching North City
Hall 404Menara Alor Setar 211Menara Kuala Lumpur 62Petronas Towers 57Putrajaya Convention
Centre 116Raffles Hotel 498Sarawak State
Assembly 404State Library
(Seremban) 122
OOmar Ali Saifuddien
Mosque 17, 472, 17, 589opening hours 21, 606
Singapore 560Orang Asli people 582orangutans 14, 354, 355,
425, 524, 14, 524
PPahang 53, 254-83, 255
accommodation 254climate 254food 89, 254highlights 255travel seasons 254weather 254
painting 593palaces
Istana Besar 124-5Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
635IN
DEX P
-S Istana Iskandariah 152Istana Kenangan 151-2Istana Lama 124Istana Maziah 311Istana Nurul Iman 473,
475-6palm-oil plantations 597-8Pa’Lungan 464-5pan mee 90Pangkor Laut 149Pangkor Town 150Pantai Cenang 195Pantai Kok 197-8Pantai Tengah 196-7parks & gardens 27, see
also national parks & nature reserves
Art & Garden by Fuan Wong 189
Botanical Garden (Kina-balu National Park) 342
Botanical Gardens (Penang) 186
Chestnut Park 514China-Malaysia Friend-
ship Garden 115East Coast Park 510-11Entopia by Penang
Butterfly Farm 190Fort Canning Park 499Gardens by the Bay 491,
496-7, 26Kebun-Kebun Bangsar 96KL Forest Eco Park 62KLCC Park 57Lake Gardens 122Lake Gardens - Tun Abdul
Razak Heritage Park 67Marina Barrage 499-500Melaka Botanical
Garden 237Miri City Fan 448Monkeycup@Penang
Hill 186Orchid Garden 404Perdana Botanical
Garden 67Rejang Esplanade 432Singapore Botanic
Gardens 509-10Taman Botani 115Taman Peranginan
Tasek 476Taman Tamadu Islam 310Taman Tasik Taiping 153Taman Tugu 63-6Taman Wetland 115Tanjung Emas Park 247Titiwangsa Lake
Gardens 69Tropical Spice Garden 189
Pasir Bogak 148, 149-50passports 608Pekan 264-5, 265Pelabuhan Klang 118-20Penang 52, 160-92, 161,
86-7accommodation 160,
173-6climate 160courses 171festivals & events 172-3food 87, 160highlights 161history 161-2tours 171-2travel seasons 160weather 160
Penang Hill 185-6Penarik 314Peninsular Malaysia’s
Northeast 53, 284-315, 286-7
accommodation 284climate 284food 284highlights 286-7travel seasons 284weather 284
people 580-5, see also individual peoples
Perak 51, 127-59, 128climate 127food 87, 127highlights 128history 129travel seasons 127weather 127
Peranakan people 581Perlis 52, 193-4, 215-16, 194
climate 193food 87highlights 194travel seasons 193weather 193
Petaling Jaya 117-18Petronas Towers 57photography 606pineapples 466planning 22-3
budgeting 21calendar of events 28-9checklist 22family travel 72, 604,
618-19itineraries 30-5, 30, 31,
32, 33Malaysia, Singapore &
Brunei basics 20-1Malaysia, Singapore &
Brunei regions 51-4repeat visitors 24travel seasons 20websites 21
plants 339politics 566, 568, 585pollution 617population 567Port Dickson 125-6postal services 606
Brunei Darussalam 489Singapore 560
proboscis monkeys 356, 389, 524
Pulau Aman 191Pulau Aur 251-2Pulau Banggi 347Pulau Berhala 358Pulau Besar 238, 250Pulau Bidong 310, 314, 528Pulau Carey 119Pulau Dayang 251-2Pulau Duyung 310-11Pulau Gaya 333Pulau Kapalai 377Pulau Kapas 306-7Pulau Ketam 119Pulau Labuan 390-3Pulau Lang Tengah 304Pulau Langkawi 18, 52,
193-4, 195-211, 194, 196-7, 200, 18
accommodation 193, 202-6
activities 195-201climate 193drinking & nightlife 209festivals & events 202food 193, 206-9highlights 194internet access 210legends 204medical services 210money 210shopping 209-10sights 195-201tourist information 210tours 201-2travel seasons 193travel to/from 210travel within 210-11weather 193
Pulau Lankayan 359Pulau Libaran 359Pulau Mabul 376Pulau Mamutik 332-3Pulau Mantanan 346-7Pulau Manukan 332Pulau Mataking 377-8
Pulau Pangkor 24, 145-50, 146
Pulau Pemanggil 251-2Pulau Perhentian 13, 295-
303, 528, 296, 13Pulau Pom Pom 378Pulau Rawa 251Pulau Redang 303-6, 528Pulau Sapi 333Pulau Satang Besar 430Pulau Selingan 358Pulau Sibu 250-1Pulau Sipadan 11, 11Pulau Sulug 334Pulau Talang-Talang 430Pulau Tinggi 251Pulau Tioman, see Tioman
IslandPulau Ubin 511public holidays, see holidaysPutrajaya 115-17pygmy elephants 527, 526
Qquays, Singapore 500
Rrabies 616radio 602Raffles, Stamford 571rafflesia 384, 531, 530rafting, see white-water
raftingrainbow toads 531, 530-1Ramadan 50, 489Ranau 342Raub 282-3Razak, Najib 577, 579religion 586-9resorts 131, 262-3responsible travel 600resthouses 604rhinos 527Riau Archipelago
(Indonesia) 562rice, Bario 466River of Life project 63rivers 599road rules 613rock climbing 37-40Romol Eco Village 387roti prata 91
SSabah 53, 316-93, 317
accommodation 316art scene 319
636
IND
EX S-T
Sabah continuedclimate 316driving tour 332food 92, 316highlights 317history 334people 583travel seasons 316weather 316
safety 607, 613crocodiles 443hiking 38, 258jellyfish 203Johor Bahru 244kidnappings 376mosquitoes 280Sepilok Orangutan
Rehabilitation Centre 354
Tioman Island 258salt 466Sandakan 348-53, 350
accommodation 351drinking & nightlife 352-3food 351-2information 353sights 348-50tours 350-1travel to/from 353travel within 353
Sandakan Archipelago 358-9
Sandakan Death Marches 349
Santubong Peninsula 419-22
Sarawak 15, 53, 394-469, 396-7
accommodation 394climate 394food 92, 394highlights 396-7history 395people 583travel seasons 394weather 394
Sarawak Cultural Village 419-20
Sarawak Museum Campus 402
scenery 25sculpture 593Selangor 51, 108-9, 110-
21, 109accommodation 108climate 108
food 91, 108highlights 109history 110travel seasons 108weather 108
Seletar Aerospace Park 24, 546
Sematan 428Semporna 370-1, 372Semporna Archipelago
371-8Sentosa Island 517-18, 538,
547-8, 553-4, 518Sepilok 354-8, 356Seremban 121-3, 123Seria 485Seribuat Archipelago 250-2shadow puppets 591Shah Alam 117-18shopping 27, see also
individual locationslanguage 622
Sibu 432-6, 435silat 25Singapore 54, 490-564,
492-3, 494-5, 502-3, 506, 508, 512, 518, 85
accessible travel 559accommodation 490,
533-8, 559airport hotels 537budgeting 559, 560business hours 560climate 490courses 522customs regulations 559discounts 559drinking & nightlife
548-54drinks 548electricity 559embassies &
consulates 559entertainment 554-5environmental issues 600festivals & events 522-33food 91, 490, 538-48, 560highlights 492-3history 491holidays 560-1internet access 559itineraries 497language 623legal issues 559LGBT+ travellers 551magazines 561media 595medical services 560money 560
newspapers 561opening hours 560politics 585postal services 560Quays 500shopping 555-9sights 491-518smoking 561telephone services 561time 561toilets 561tourist information 561tours 522travel seasons 490travel to/from 561travel within 562-4visas 561walking tour 520, 520weather 490weights & measures 561
Singlish 623Siniawan Night Market 410Sipadan 376, 528skin protection 618snakes 618snorkelling, see diving &
snorkellingsoto makassar 380spas
Gunung Mulu National Park 455
Kinabalu National Park 342
Kuala Lumpur 69-71Melaka City 226Penang 187Pulau Langkawi 195,
196-7, 199Singapore 519-21
speakeasies 181, 550Sri Menanti 124-5statues, see monuments
& memorialsstrawberries 141street art
George Town 172Kota Bharu 288Kuala Lumpur 99Melaka 227Singapore 501
street festivals 173street food 11, 45-50, 179
Brickfields Street 94Jalan Alor 81Kota Kinabalu 327Pudu 82
street names, George Town 184
Sukau 362-3
Sultan of Brunei 473sun bears 355sunburn 618Sungai Kinabatangan 360-5Sungai Klias 389Sungai Lembing 268Supertrees 491, 496-7, 26surfing 43
Cherating 270Sabah 345safety 617
swiftlets 361, 446swimming
Singapore 521
TTabin Wildlife Reserve
369-70Taiping 153-7, 154
walking tour 156, 156Taman Negara 16, 276-81,
277, 16Taman Rekreasi Gunung
Lang 131, 523Tambunan 384-5Tanah Rata 141-4, 142Tanjung Aru 328Tanjung Gemok 264Tanjung Rhu 198-9Tanjung Sipang Mengayu
345-6Taoism 586-7Taoist temples, see templestapirs 527, 526Tasik Chini 273, 599Tasik Kenyir 315Tawau 378-81, 379taxes 556taxis 613taxis, long distance 614tea plantations
Boh Sungei Palas Tea Estate 144
Boh Tea Garden 141Gaharu Tea Valley 137Sabah Tea Garden 342
Tekka Centre 543telephone services 607
Brunei Darussalam 489Singapore 561
television 602Teluk Bahang 188-90Teluk Datai 198Teluk Kumbar 192Teluk Nipah 147-8, 149Temburong 485-8Temerloh 273temple caves 130
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
637IN
DEX T-Z
temples 25, see also Buddhist temples, Hindu temples
Cheng Hoon Teng Temple 225
Foo Lin Kong 147Hiang Thian Siang
Temple 402Hin Ho Bio 402Ho Ann Kiong 309Hock Teik Cheng Sin
Temple 166Hong San Si Temple 401Johor Bahru Old Chinese
Temple 241Kuan Yin Teng 169Lian Shan Shuang Lin
Monastery 514Lin Je Kong Temple 147Sam Poh Footprint
Temple 192San Ching Tian
Temple 448Thian Hock Keng
Temple 501Tiang Yun Dian Chinese
Temple 473Tua Pek Kong Temple
402, 432, 448Tempurung 388-9Tenom 386-7Terengganu 295-315Thaipusam 588theft 607ticks 618tigers 524, 525time 20, 607
Brunei Darussalam 489language 622Singapore 561
Tioman Island 14, 53, 254-5, 255-64, 255, 256, 14
accommodation 254climate 254food 254highlights 255travel seasons 254weather 254
Tiong Bahru 505Tip of Borneo 345-6tipping 23toads 530-1toilets 607-8tourist information 608, see
also individual locationstours, see also individual
locationsadventure 322-4
diving 322-4wildlife-watching 324
traditional medicine 619train travel 331, 614transit hotels 105, 537transport 610-14
language 624travel advisories 607travel cards 107travel to/from Malaysia,
Singapore & Brunei 610-11
travel within Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei 21, 611-14
trekking, see hikingTringgus 426trishaws 25, 237, 564, 613-14Tuaran 343-4, 42Tumpat 294Tunku Abdul Rahman
National Park 332-4turtles 528, 528-9Tutong 484TV 602typhoid 616
UUlu Temburong National
Park 487-8Unesco World Heritage sites
central George Town 162-9, 169
central Melaka 219-24Mt Kinabalu & Kinabalu
National Park 334-42Singapore Botanic
Gardens 509-10
Vvacation, see holidaysvaccinations 615Vale Eco Center 145Via Ferrata 338viewpoints 25
Menara Taming Sari 221-4Pinnacle@Duxton 501-3Signal Hill Observatory
Platform 318Sky Tower Malacca 225-6Top at KOMTAR 171
visas 20, 608Brunei Darussalam 489Singapore 561
volunteering 258-9, 425, 608-9
East Coast islands 301
Wwalking, see hikingwalking tours
George Town 168, 168Singapore 520, 520Taiping 156, 156
wasps 618water parks
Adventure Cove Waterpark 521-2
Singapore Wake Park 521Wave House 522
water, tap 618waterfalls
Chiling Waterfalls 114Durian Perangin 199Gunung Gading National
Park 428Lata Iskandar 139Mahua Waterfall 385Takah Berangin Falls 253Takah Pandan Falls 253Telaga Tujuh 197Temurun Waterfall 198Upeh Guling Falls 252-3
weather 20, 28-9Brunei Darussalam 479Singapore 490
websites 21, 568, 590environmental issues
597, 598, 600health 615history 574, 576
weights & measures 602Singapore 561
Weston 389White Rajas 572white-water rafting 41-3,
323-4Beaufort 388Kuala Kubu Bharu 114
wildlife reserves & sanctuaries
Borneo Sun Bear Con-servation Centre 355
Jurong Bird Park 515Kinta Nature Park 136KL Bird Park 63-82KL Butterfly Park 67Kota Kinabalu Wetland
Centre 319Kudat Turtle Conserva-
tion Society 345Labuk Bay Proboscis
Monkey Sanctuary 356Matang Wildlife
Centre 425
National Elephant Con-servation Centre 273
Penarik Firefly Sanctuary 314
Semenggoh Wildlife Centre 422
Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre 14, 354
Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve 516-17
Tabin Wildlife Reserve 369-70
wildlife smuggling 597wildlife watching 27, 41, see
also bird-watchingBako National Park
417, 418Cherating 270Kampung Kuantan 120Maliau Basin Conserva-
tion Area 382Pulau Pangkor 148Softwoods Plantation
24, 378tours 324Zoo Negara 111
women in Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei 584-5
women travellers 609Brunei Darussalam 489
women’s health 619work 609WWII 349WWII sites & memorials
Battlebox 498Changi Museum &
Chapel 510Kranji War Memorial 517Kundasang War
Memorial 342Pialungan Sandakan-
Ranau Death March Memorial 342
Sandakan Memorial Park 348
WWII Memorial (Labuan War Cemetery) 391
ZZhongshan building 103zoos
Langkawi Wildlife Park 199
Singapore Zoo 513Zoo Negara 111Zoo Taiping & Night
Safari 153-4
638
Walking Tour detourWalking Tour
Path/Walking Trail
BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin
Sento Hot Baths/Onsen
ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight
DivingBodysurfing
Sleeping
Eating
Entertainment
Shopping
Drinking & NightlifeCafe
BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information
AirportBorder crossingBus
CyclingFerry
Underground station
MonorailParking
Metro/MRT/MTR station
Petrol stationSkytrain/Subway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram
Other Transport
LighthouseHut/Shelter
Beach
LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall
River, CreekIntermittent River
Swamp/Mangrove
Reef
Canal
Water
Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Glacier
Mudflat
Beach/Desert
Airport/Runway
Cemetery (Christian)
Cemetery (Other)
Park/Forest
Sportsground
Sight (Building)
International
DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall
Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village
State/Province
Camping
Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour
SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity
LaneTertiary
TollwayFreewayPrimary
StepsPlaza/Mall
Pedestrian overpass
Secondary
Unsealed roadRoad under construction
Tunnel
Cable car/Funicular
Gate
Sights
Activities,Courses & Tours
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
Information Routes
Boundaries
Hydrography
Areas
Geographic
Population
Transport
Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book
Map Legend
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Austin BushPenang; Langkawi, Kedah & Perlis Austin originally went to Thailand in 1999 as part of a language study program hosted by Chiang Mai University. The lure of city life, employment and spicy food eventually led him to Bangkok and have managed to keep him there since. He works as a writer and photographer, and in addition to having contributed to numerous books, magazines and websites, he has contributed text and photos to more than 20 Lonely Planet titles, with a
focus on food and Southeast Asia. Austin also wrote the Eat Like a Local and Regional Specialties sections of this book.
Ria de JongSingapore Ria started life in Asia, born in Sri Lanka to Dutch-Australian parents; she has always relished the hustle and excitement of this continent of contrasts. After growing up in Townsville, Australia, Ria moved to Sydney as a features writer before packing her bags for a five-year stint in the Philippines. Moving to Singa-pore in 2015 with her husband and two small children, Ria is loving discovering every nook and cranny of this tiny city, country, nation.
Damian HarperMelaka; Johor; Pahang & Tioman Island With two degrees (one in modern and classical Chinese from SOAS), Damian has been writing for Lonely Planet for over two decades, covering destinations as diverse as China, Vietnam, Thailand, Ireland, Mallorca, Malaysia, Hong Kong and the UK. A seasoned guidebook writer, Damian also has penned articles for numerous newspapers and magazines, including the Guardian and the Daily Telegraph, and currently makes Surrey,
England, his home. A self-taught trumpet novice, his other hobbies include collecting modern first editions, photography and taekwondo. Follow Damian on Instagram (damian.harper).
Anita IsalskaPerak; Selangor & Negeri Sembilan Anita Isalska is a travel journalist, editor and copywriter. After several merry years as a staff writer and editor – a few of them in Lonely Planet’s London office – Anita now works freelance between San Fran-cisco, the UK and any Baltic bolthole with good wi-fi. Anita specialises in Eastern and Central Europe, Southeast Asia, France and off-beat travel. Read her stuff on www.anitaisalska.com.
Anna KaminskiSabah; Brunei Darussalam Originally from the Soviet Union, Anna grew up in Cambridge, UK. She graduated from the University of Warwick with a degree in Comparative American Studies, a background in the history, culture and litera-ture of the Americas and the Caribbean, and an enduring love of Latin America. Her restless wanderings led her to settle briefly in Oaxaca and Bangkok, and her flirtation with criminal law saw her volunteering as a lawyer’s assistant in the
courts, ghettos and prisons of Kingston, Jamaica. Anna has contributed to almost 30 Lonely Planet titles. When not on the road, Anna calls London home.
Read more about Austin at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/osten_th
Read more about Ria at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/riadejong
Read more about Damian at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/damianharper
Read more about Anita at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/anitatravels
Read more about Anna at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/AnnaCohenKaminski
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415314th edition – August 2019ISBN 978 1 78657 480 0© Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 201910 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
OUR WRITERSSimon RichmondKuala Lumpur Journalist and photographer Simon Richmond has specialised as a travel writer since the early 1990s and first worked for Lonely Planet in 1999 on their Central Asia guide. He’s long since stopped counting the number of guidebooks he’s researched and written for the company, but countries covered include Australia, China, India, Iran, Japan, Korea, Malaysia, Mongolia, Myanmar (Burma), Russia, Singapore, South Africa and Turkey. For Lonely Planet’s website
he’s penned features on topics from the world’s best swimming pools to the joys of urban sketch-ing. Simon also wrote most of the Plan Your Trip section and the Understand and Survival Guide sections of this book.
Brett AtkinsonSarawak Brett Atkinson is based in Auckland, New Zealand, but frequently on the road for Lonely Planet. He’s a full-time travel and food writer specialising in ad-venture travel, unusual destinations and surprising angles on more well-known destinations. Craft beer and street food are Brett’s favourite reasons to explore places. He is featured regularly on the Lonely Planet website, and in newspapers, magazines and websites across New Zealand and Australia. Since becoming a
Lonely Planet author in 2005, Brett has covered areas as diverse as Vietnam, Sri Lanka, the Czech Republic, New Zealand, Morocco, California and the South Pacific.
Lindsay BrownPeninsular Malaysia’s Northeast Lindsay started travelling as young bushwalker exploring the Blue Mountains west of Sydney. Then as a marine biologist he dived the coastal and island waters of southeastern Australia. He continued travelling whenever he could while employed at Lonely Planet as an editor and publishing manager. On becoming a freelance writer and photographer he has co-authored over 35 Lonely Planet guides to Australia, Bhutan, India, Malaysia,
Nepal, Pakistan and Papua New Guinea.
Read more about Simon at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/simonrichmond
Read more about Brett at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/BrettAtkinson
Read more about Lindsay at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/lindsayom
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