[ ] August 21, 2015

PLANT BOOSTER

alternatif kepada penggunaan bahan kimia (idris bald)

Dalam negara menuju ke arah pengeluaran bahan makanan dan

produk pertanian yang lebih bermutu dan selamat dimakan, banyak

kaedah penjagaan tanaman telah dijalankan seperti penggunaan

bahan organic dan Efektic MicroOrganisma (EM) telah digunakan.

Cara ini dapat mengurangkan penggunaan bahan kimia seterusnya

mengurangkan kos pengeluaran serta memastikan pengeluaran bahan

makanan bebas dari bahan kimia.

EM ialah sekumpulan mikroorganisma yang hidup berkelompok di

sesuatu tempat. Ianya hidup berharmoni di dalam tanah bersama

tumbuhan dengan membekalkan makanan dan memberi

perlindungan kepada serangga dan binatang kecil yang lain. EM

tempatan boleh dikumpul dan dibiak untuk memperbaiki dan

memulihkan tanah.

Jabtan Pertanian telah berjaya membuktikan penggunaan EM (Plant

Booster) ke atas beberapa tanaman seperti Rock Melon, Tomato, Cili

dan Pisang dapat meningkatkan mutu dan kualiti tanaman tanpa

penggunaan bahan kimia.

En. Wan Muhammad Zukarnain bin Baharudin seorang Pegawai

Pertanian yang berpengalaman dalam tanaman Fertigasi dan Organic

Farming yang berpusat di Bahagian Pembangunan Komoditi Serdang

telah menjalankan penyelidikan terhadap tanaman di atas dengan

hasil yang sangat ketara dari segi pertumbuhan dan juga hasilnya.

Penyediaan EM (Plant Booster) mudah disediakan dengan

penggunaan bahan yang boleh didapati dengan perbelanjaan yang

kecil seperti berikut:

Bahan-bahan penghasilan plant booster

\Gula merah (1kg),

belacan(0.5kg),

nanas (1kg),

telur(10 biji),

dedak (0.5kg),

air (20L),

susu segar atau susu tepung (2L@kg),

pisang (1kg),

betik (1kg),

labu (1kg),

kangkong (1kg) dan

ragi (5 biji)

Kaedah pembuatan Langkah

1: Bahan-bahan seperti belacan, nanas, pisang, betik dan kangkong

perlu dikisar halus. Langkah

2: Bahan-bahan yang dikisar dicampur dengan telur, susu segar atau

susu tepung, dedak, gula merah dan air. Langkah

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[ ] August 21, 2015

3: Kesemua bahan-bahan tersebut di masukkan ke dalam satu bekas

kemudian dikacau. Langkah

4: Buah labu yang dipotong dengan ketebalan 2mm, panjang 5-6cm

dan lebar 2-3 cm diletakkan dipermukaan media bahan yang telah

dicampur dan akhir sekali ragi yang telah dipecahkan ditabur ke atas

permukaan labu atau media. Langkah

5: Bekas tersebut ditutup secara separa anaerobik dan peram selama

seminggu. Produk ini dianggap matang apabila terdapat miselium

putih tumbuh di atas permukaan media dan berbau masam manis.

6: Setelah matang, plant booster dikacau dan ditapis sebelum

digunakan pada tanaman.

Aplikasi pada tanaman

Plant Booster pekat perlu dicairkan terlebih dahulu sebelum

digunakan dilapangan dan kecairan mengikut sukatan seperti

dibawah;

i. Melon; Minggu (M) 1-2 (15ml/1Liter air), M 3-5 (20ml/L) dan M

6-10 (30ml/L)

ii. Tomato; Minggu (M) 1-2 ( 10ml/1Liter air), M 3-5 (15ml/L), M 6-

8(20ml/L) dan M 9 keatas (25ml/L)

iii. Cili; Minggu (M) 1-2 ( 10ml/1Liter air), M 3-5 (20ml/L), M 6-

8(30ml/L) dan M 9 keatas (40ml/L). iv. Pisang; Minggu (M) 2

( 10ml/1 liter air), M 4 (15ml/L), M 8 (20ml/L), M 10 (25ml/L), M

12 ke atas hingga matang (30ml/L) setiap bulan.

Semua kaedah pembajaan dan kawalan perosak adalah mengikut

syor Jabatan Pertanian.

Anda boleh mencuba sendiri.......

Bagi anda yang ingin keterangan lanjut, sila hubungi Bahagian

Pembangunan Komoditi Jabatan Pertanian Serdang Tel: 03-8948

6302 Fax: 03-8942 6616

Enzim Sampah

Enzim pula secara amnya diketahui dapat menggalakkan atau

mempercepatkan proses kimia. Jadi penggunaannya dalam sungai

yang dicemari minyak atau bahan kimia didapati berjaya

merungkaikan ikatan kompleks bahan kimia tersebut dan seterusnya

menjernihkan airnya.

 

Pada masa yang sama, garam nitrat dan karbonat terbentuk. Kedua-

dua elemen ini dapat membantu menyuburkan tanah dan menjadi

hormon serta nutrien semula jadi kepada tumbuhan.

 

Dengan menggunakan  bahan buangan ini mudah ditemui di

dapur, anda mampu membawa keajaiban. Kulit buah, lebihan sayur

dan bahan yang anda gunakan untuk memasak atau makan, adalah

kuncinya. Tukarkan ia kepada enzim dan anda dapat merawat

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[ ] August 21, 2015

dunia,” ujar seorang pengamal perubatan alternatif homeopati, Dr.

Joean Oon.

 

Ilmu yang dipelajari daripada seorang pensyarah dan doktor dalam

perubatan alternatif di Thailand, Dr. Rosukon Poompanvong, ini

mula mendapat perhatian dan kini memperoleh permintaan sehingga

ke beberapa negara di rantau Asia Tenggara termasuk Singapura,

Thailand, Indonesia dan Brunei.

 

Testimonial:

“Pokok naga di sebuah ladang di Seremban yang disembur enzim

sayur-sayuran dan buah-buahan dapat mengeluarkan sehingga 40 biji

buah dari sebatang pokok, sedangkan pokok naga pekebun lain

hanya dapat mengeluarkan maksimum 10 biji. Perbezaannya ialah

empat kali ganda.

 

“Seorang wanita yang mempunyai 60 pasu pokok bunga orkid

pernah merungut pokok yang ditanam sukar untuk berbunga, tetapi

selepas menyembur enzim yang dihasilkan sendiri, bunga

berkembang sehingga 60 peratus lebih banyak tanpa bantuan baja

herbisid,” kongsi Joean tentang kebaikan enzim kepada bidang agro.

 

Tidak melibatkan kos yang besar, enzim yang dihasilkan hanya

memerlukan apa yang ada di dapur anda. Perapkan bersama gula

perang, sisa makanan dan air pada nisbah 1: 3: 10 dalam bekas

tertutup dan tunggu selepas tiga bulan.

FAA

Fish Amino Acid ( FAA ) adalah cecair dari proses pereputan ikan

yang menghasilkan asid amino, iaitu komponen penting dari proten.

FAA merupakan penghasilan yang baik untuk kehidupan dan

pertumbuhan microbes dan juga pokok tumbuhan, kerana

mengandungi pelbagai nutrient dan berbagai jenis asid amino dan

component protein lain untuk kebaikan pokok.

 

1. CARA MEMBUAT FAA ( versi lain sedikit dari

kebiasaan )

Alatan:

Balang kaca atau plastic atau balang tanah liat ( clay pot)

Kain jarang, ( kain lampin, kain kasa, )

Talia tau getah pengikat

 

Bahan:

Ikan segar dari jenis belakang hitam, tulang2 ikan segar

( buangan dari pembuatan kropok),

Udang atau kulit udang

Isi siput gondang emas ( mudah di dapati)

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[ ] August 21, 2015

Gula merah ( brown sugar), IMO4, (kalu tak ada IMO4

buleh guna IMO2 dan air beras yang di fermented 3 hari ),

OHN ( bawang putih, kumcui, tungkui, kayu manis, halia) di

campur sekali 5 jenis tu.

(bahan di atas spt udang, siput buleh campur jika ada)

 

Jenis ikan :

Terbaiknya jenis belakang hitam spt sardine, cincaru,

kembung, tongkol (aya), tamban

selar, tuna, ikan bilis ( fresh), ikan mata besar ( lolong ) ikian

pelata dan ikan2 seangkatan.

Ikan belakang hitam ini mengandungi proten yang tinggi dan

baik, asid amino dan juga asid lemak ( fatty asid).

Mengandungi EPA dan DHA yang banyak dan asid lemak

yang tak tepu yang terbaik untuk kesihatan.

Kedua2 bahan DHA dan EPA bertindak menurunkan tahap

kolestrol dan dan menghalang penyakit darah tinggi dan

berkaitan dengan penyakit jantung dan strok.

Mencerdaskan minda kanak2, dengan memberi oksigen pada

otak, mengurangkan penyakit pelupa pada orang tua,

mengandungi pelbagai vitamins untuk kebaikan kesihatan

dan mengurangkan terjadinya penyakit ketuaan dan kaitan

kekurangan vitamis, bahan2 terkandung dalam ikan itu juga

amat baik dan di perlukan oleh pokok untuk kebaikan dan

kesuburan

 

Kaedah Membuat

1. Basuh ikan menggunakan air tanpa klorin, cincang kecil2

sebesar ibu jari termasuk kepala, tulang dan perut.

2. Ikan cincang di gaul dengan ¾ jumlah gula merah, dan di

masukkan dalam balang, dengan 2/3 isi padu balang.

3. Gaulkan ¼ gula merah tadi dengan IMO4 dan taburkan

dalam balang diatas bahan ikan cincang itu untuk

memudahkan pengoposan isi ikan dan juga minyak ikan ,

(jika menggunakan IMO2, campur sekali air basuhan beras

yang sudah di fermented 3 hari ), masukkan juga sedikit

OHN ( campuran berbagai ) yang di cairkan 1:5 , gunakan

100ml untuk 1kg bahan ikan, kandungan gula merah dan

bahan ikan sama berat 1:1

4. Tutup balang dengan kain dan ikat denagn sempurna dan

pastikan 1/3 ruang di atas bahan ikan.

5. Dalam masa 3-4 hari, bahan ikan mula mencair di sebabkan

tekanan osmotic oleh gula merah, dan terjadinya proses

fermentasi.

6. Dalam masa sebualan jus dari fermentasi buleh di gunakan

jika perlu walaupun tak semau ikan hancur. Kebiasaannya

ikan akan hancur denag sempurna dalam masa 5-6 bulan,

dan amat bagus kulitinya berbanding fermentation 1 bulan.

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[ ] August 21, 2015

 

FAA yang sudah matang berbau masam manis dan tidak membusuk,

tapis dan boleh di simpan tempat teduh dan sejuk.

 

Bagaimana menggunakan FAA

1. Fish Amino Acid (FAA) buleh di gunakan selepas di cairkan

dengan air bersih tanpa klorin dengan kadar 1:500-1000.

2. FAA kaya dengan nitrogen N merupakan baja yang bagus

untuk siraman atau semburan foliar untuk mempertingkatkan

pertumbuhan semasa fasa vegetative bila di gabungkan

dengan pembajaan lain spt menggunakan MOL2 lain dalam

kaedah NF.

3. Jika kita membuat IMO untuk di gunakan pada proses

pengoposan bahan organic, campuran FAA yang di cairkan

1:500 akan mempertingkatkan activity microbes dan

perceoatkan proses pengoposan.

4. Untuk sayuran berdaun, menggunakan FAA 1:1000 secara

berterusan akan meningkatkan hasil dan memberi rasa yang

enak dan ber aroma .

5. Disebabkan FAA kaya dengan unsur N , tidak di galakan

menggunakan semasa production stage kerana akan

meningkatkan pertumbuhan vegetative dan mengurangkan

production, tetapi amat baik jika di gunakan sebagai booster

untuk aktikan balik pertumbuhan jika masa production

pokok lambat berkembang cabang Y…buleh di lakukan

hanya 3 -4 minggu sekali.

6. Sesetengah FAA yang mengandungi minyak ikan hasil

fermentasi akan mengeluarkan bau yang agak ketara, dan ini

merupakan sebagai repellent terhadap sesetengah serangga

spt lalat putih dan lain2.

7. FAA dari ikan sardine dan tongkol amat baik untuk

menghalau hamama dan juga lalat putih bila larutan di spray

pada daun atas permukaan atas dan bawah.

8. Jika terdapat tulang2 ikan yang tidak hancur selepas di tapis,

masukan kedalam brown rice vinegar atau cuka nipah akan

mengoposkan tulang dan menghasilkan calcium phosphate

yang berkualiti dan sedia terlarut.

 

Fungsi-fungsi Fish Amino Acid ( FAA )

Oleh Mohammad Abdul Rahman

1. Mengatasi stress

Stress seperti suhu tinggi, kelembapan rendah atau

kekeringan, serangan hamama atau serangga, hujan

berlebihan ( lembab), banjir dan kekurangan nutrients

memberi efek negatif pada metabolisme tanaman dan akan

membantutkan kualiti dan penghasilan tanaman. Penggunaan

amino asid semasa penanaman secara berterusan akan

5

[ ] August 21, 2015

mengubah fisiologi tanaman denagn pengawalan dan

penghindaran stress menjadikan pokok sentiuasa dalam

keadaan baik dan subur dan berupaya menentang penyakit.

 

1. Pengaruh Fotosintesis

Untuk kesuburan pokok, karbohidrat di sintesiskan oleh

prosess fotosintesis, pada peringkat fotosintesis yang rendah

mengakibatkan pertumbuhan yang lambat dan menyebabkan

kebantutan dan kematian tanaman, klorofil adalah molekul

yang bertanggung jawab untuk penyerapan tenaga cahaya.

Glumate acid dan glisine merupakan enzime untuk proses

sintesis dan pembentukan klorofil pada daun. Asid amino ini

membantu untuk meningkatkan konsentrasi klorofil dan

memantapkan proses fotosintesis lebih tinggi. Hal ini

membuat tanaman menghijau dan subur bila proses sintesis

berlaku secara maksima.

 

1. Tindakan pada Stomata

Stomata adalah struktur selular yang mengontrol atau

mengawal keseimbangan hydro atau air dalam tanaman,

penyerapan unsur makro dan mikro nutrients dan penyerapan

udara. Pembukaan dan penutupan stomata dikendalikan oleh

dua faktor external (cahaya, kelembaban, suhu dan

konsentrasi garam) dan faktor internal (konsentrasi amino

asid, abscisic acid dan lain2). Stomata akan menutup ketika

cahaya dan kelembaban rendah atau kering dan juga jika

keadaan suhu dan konsentrasi garam yang tinggi, ketika

stomata tertutup proses fotosintesis dan transpirasi atau

perpeluhan berkurang dan berlaku penyerapan yang rendah

pada unsur baja makro dan mikro dan respirasi meningkat

yang memerlukan tenaga dari kabohidrat. Dalam hal ini

keseimbangan metabolisme tanaman adalah negatif.

Catabolism ( penguraian protein dan kabohidrat) lebih tinggi

dari anabolisme. Ini berarti metabolisme lambat dan

menghentikan pertumbuhan tanaman. Asid L-glutamat

bertindak sebagai agen osmotic citoplasm dari sel pengawal.

Penggunaan amino acid akan memudahkan pembukaan

stomata dengan pengawalan dari keseimbangan catabolism.

 

2. Chelating Effect Amino Acid

Amino acid merupakan agen chelating atau pengurai untuk

micronutrients. Penggunaan bersama atau sebagai siraman

atau campuran dalam tangki baja memudahkan, penyerapan

dan transportation zat2 micro nutrients oleh akar dan pokok.

Effect ini disebabkan tindakan asid dapat mengawal serapan

dan permiability cell membrane dengan pertolongan dari

acid L - Glycine dan L - glutamate yang terkenal sebagai

chelating agen yang sangat effective.

 

3. Amino Acid dan & phytohormones

6

[ ] August 21, 2015

Amino acid merupakan precussor atau aktivator dari

phytohormones dan zat pertumbuhan. L - Metionine

merupakan precussor dari ethylene dan faktor pertumbuhan

seperti Espermine dan Espermidine, yang di synsthesized

dari 5 - Adenosyl Metionine. L - Triptophane ( sebahagian

dari AA) adalah precussor untuk sintesis Auksin.

Triptophane tersedia hanya jika hidrolisis protein dilakukan

oleh enzim.

 

4. Pendebungaan dan Pembentukan Buah.

Pendebungaan adalah perpindahan debunga ke bunga putik

buah, sehingga terjadinya pembentukan buah . L – Proline

( komponen AA) membantu dalam kesuburan pollen. L -

Lysine, L - Metionine, L - glutamate adalah komponen

amino asid yang esential untuk pendebungaan. Amino asid

meningkatkan kadar pembentukan debunga dan pembesaran

kantung polen.

 

5. Keseimbangan Microbes Tanah

Keseimbangan microbe tanah pertanian merupakan asas

yang baik untuk penguraian dan peroses mineralisation

untuk menguraikan bahan organik dan juga structure tanah

untuk melepaskan unsur baja pada pokok dalam bentuk yang

mudah di serap. L-metionine salah satu komponen dari AA

adalah faktor pertumbuhan precussor yang menstabilkan

dinding sel microbes dalam proses penguraian.

 

6. Sehubungan dengan itu, penggunaan FAA atau amino acid

amat baik untuk menentukan kesuburan pokok yang

meksima dan ketahan dari penyakit, serta untuk penghasilan

buah yang berkualiti dan meningkatkan production. Cara

untuk membuat FAA bulehlah di rujuk pada artikel dalam

Files yang sedia ada pada Group ini.

 

perbandingan kandungan FFJ pisang dan FAA ikan :

 

FFJ PISANG

N : 2% P2O5 : 0.2% K2O : 1.2% CaO : 0.2% MgO : 0.2% Fe :

55ppm Cu : 1ppm Zn : 9ppm Mn : 6ppm B : 2ppm

 

FAA IKAN

N :14.2% P2O5 : 1% K2O : 0.7% CaO : 0.8% MgO : 0.1% Fe :

61ppm Cu : 2ppm Zn : 10ppm Mn : 3ppm B : 2ppm

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[ ] August 21, 2015

BAJA FERTIGASI

SET A

Kalsium nitrat 19kg

potasium nitrat 2.5KG

Urea 550g

 

SET B

 potasium nitrat 10KG

Magnesium sulfat 10kg

mkp 4kg

 

TE

Cu 8 g

Fe EDTA 200G

Zn EDTA 60G

Mn EDTA 65G

BORON 175G

Amm Molibdate 4G

Jadual Semburan Produk SRI untuk tanaman

Timun 747

By Norhisam Ramlan on Tuesday, 23 July 2013 at 10:20

Minggu 1 -

 

Hari Isnin :

50ml ( SRI ANAK ) + 50ml ( Mol Ikan ) + 50 ml ( Mol Kangkong )

+ 20 ml ( OHN ) /25 liter air @ 2 pam

 

Hari Khamis :

50ml (SRI ANAK) + 50ml (Mol Ikan ) + 50 ml( Mol Kangkong )+

20 ml ( OHN ) / 25 liter air @ 2 pam

 

Minggu 2

 

Hari Isnin :

 

100ml (SRI ANAK ) + 100ml (Mol Ikan ) +100 ml (Mol Kangkong )

+20 ml (OHN )/25 liter air@4 pam

 

Hari Khamis :

100ml (SRI ANAK ) + 100ml (Mol Ikan ) + 100 ml (Mol

Kangkong )+ 20 ml (OHN )/25 liter air@4 pam

 

Minggu 3

 

Hari Isnin :

150ml (SRI ANAK ) + 150ml (Mol Ikan ) + 150 ml (Mol

Kangkong )+ 60 ml ( OHN )/25 liter air@6 pam

8

[ ] August 21, 2015

 

Hari Khamis :

150ml (SRI ANAK ) + 150ml (Mol Ikan ) + 150 ml (Mol

Kangkong )+ 60 ml ( OHN )/25 liter air@6 pam

 

Minggu 4

 

Hari Isnin :

150ml (SRI BUNGA ) + 150ml (Mol Ikan ) + 150 ml (Mol

Kangkong )+ 60 ml ( OHN )/25 liter air@6 pam

 

Hari Khamis :

150ml (SRI BUNGA ) + 150ml (Mol Ikan ) + 150 ml (Mol

Kangkong )+ 60 ml ( OHN )/25 liter air@6 pam

 

Minggu 5

 

Hari Isnin :

150ml (SRI BUAH  ) + 150ml (Mol Ikan ) + 150 ml (Mol Pisang )+

60 ml ( OHN )/25 liter air@6 pam

 

Hari Khamis :

150ml (SRI BUAH ) + 150ml (Mol Ikan ) + 150 ml (Mol Pisang )+

60 ml ( OHN )/25 liter air@6 pam

 

 Minggu 6

 

Hari Isnin :

150ml (SRI ANAK ) + 150ml (Mol Ikan ) + 150 ml (Mol Pisang )+

60 ml ( OHN )/25 liter air@6 pam

 

Hari Khamis :

150ml (SRI BUNGA ) + 150ml (Mol Ikan ) + 150 ml (Mol Pisang )+

60 ml ( OHN )/25 liter air@6 pam

 

Minggu 7

 

Hari Isnin :

150ml (SRI BUAH ) + 150ml (Mol Ikan ) + 150 ml (Mol Pisang )+

60 ml ( OHN )/25 liter air@6 pam

 

Hari Khamis :

150ml (SRI ANAK  ) + 150ml (Mol Ikan ) + 150 ml (Mol Pisang )+

60 ml ( OHN )/25 liter air@6 pam

Penyediaan Baja Natural Farming ( produk SRI )

By Nurwahidah Hambali on Friday, 24 February 2012 at 22:43

9

[ ] August 21, 2015

As salam pada semua kawan2, di kelapangan ini saya ingin

berkongsi pengalaman yang amat sedikit ini untuk perkongsian kita

bersama agar kita dapat berjimat dalam bidang pertanian yang amat

berisiko ini. ini pembelanjaran yang pertama ini saya akan tunjukkan

resepi salah satu bahan dalam baja SRI iaitu penyediaan FPJ

( Fermented Plant Juice )

 

BAHAN-BAHAN

 

Kangkong 1 kg

Gula Merah 1 kg

Pisau

Papan pemotong

bekas

Kain

pen marker

 

Cara2

 

Ambil kangkong liar yang berada dalam parit ( free, x payah beli ),

seelok2nya ambil awal pagi kerana masih terdapat hormon / enzim

yang amat baik pada masa itu. Potong kecil2 ( jangan basuh ),

masukkan dalam bekas dan campurkan dengan gula merah pada

kadar 1:1. selepas itu tutup bekas dengan kertas mahjung dan ikat

dengan dengan getah serta labelkan tarikh buat. ditapis pada hari ke -

7. cecair yer disimpan dalam botol, jangan rapatkan tutupnya. sisa

kangkong tadi boleh dibuat kompos atau diletak di bawah pokok

buah2an,bunga ( jangan letak banyak2), cukup sekadar kelilimg

pokok...mudah bukan.belajar buat MOL kangkong ini dulu.

berjumpa lagi di lain kali dengan resepi yang lain pula....respon jika

sudah belajar buat.terima kasih.

TEKNOLOGI PENANAMAN SECARA

FERTIGASI

By عبدالرحمن on Sunday, 9 March 2014 at 22:58 محمد

Fuad Fertigasi

 

TEKNOLOGI PENANAMAN SECARA FERTIGASI Fertigasi

berasal dari perkataan fertigation iaitu fertilizer & irrigation.

Fertigasi dapat ditakrifkan sebagai satu kaedah penanaman di mana

baja (dalam bentuk larutan/nutrient) diagihkan kepada zon akar

tanaman melalui sistem pengairan. Umumnya beberapa jenis sayur-

sayuran dari jenis buah sahaja yang sesuai ditanam menggunakan

sistem ini seperti cili merah, timun, tomato, terung, capsicum,

strawberi dan melon.

 

10

[ ] August 21, 2015

Penanaman secara fertigasi bertujuan mengelakkan tanaman

daripada dijangkiti penyakit akar bawaan tanah.

Penggunaan Struktur Pelindung Hujan (SPH) adalah digalakkan

dalam penanaman secara fertigasi, walaubagaimana pun amalan

penanaman tanpa SPH masih boleh dijalankan. Fertigasi tanpa SPH

akan menyebabkan pengurusan air yang tidak terkawal akibat hujan.

Percikan hujan juga akan menyebabkan jangkitan penyakit daun dan

buah merebak dengan mudah.

 

Polibeg putih adalah disyorkan kerana ia dapat mengurangkan kadar

penyerapan haba dan mengelakkan kejadian pengumpulan akar padat

di bahagian tepi. Lain-lain bekas seperti polibeg hitam, pasu plastic

dan pasu tanah boleh juga digunakan. Setiap jenis mempunyai

kelebihan dan kelemahan yang tersendiri. Bekas tanaman hendaklah

boleh memuatkan sekurang-kurang 10 – 12 liter.

 

Media terbaik yang disyorkan untuk diisi ke dalam bekas tanaman

adalah coconut coir dust atau coco peat. Penggunaan coco peat

adalah murah dan mudah dibeli jika dibandingkan dengan

penggunaan media komersil seperti perlite atau vermiculite.

 

Pembekalan larutan baja dilakukan mengikut masa yang ditetapkan

dengan bantuan alat pengatur masa. Kekerapan dan tempoh masa

setiap penitisan bergantung kepada jenis tanaman dan peringkat

umur tanaman.

 

Untuk mendapatkan pengeluaran konsisten dengan kualiti hasil yang

tinggi pada tahap optima serta menguntungkan dalam penanaman

secara fertigasi, beberapa aspek perlu diberi tumpuan. Diantaranya

adalah penyediaan media, semaian, menggubah ke ladang, kawalan

perosak dan penyakit, kawalan terhadap sistem pengairan dan

saliran, kebersihan ladang, diagnosis masalah tanaman, pensterilan,

pengagihan nutrient serta perkara berkaitan fisiologi tanaman.

 

Antara keperluan asas untuk menjalankan kaedah penanaman

fertigasi ialah:

1. Sumber air bersih

2. Sistem pengairan

3. Rumah semaian

4. Baja (nutrient)

5. Media tanaman

6. Bekas tanaman di ladang dan semaian (polibeg dan dulang

semaian)

7. Biji benih terpilih

8. Struktur Pelindung Hujan (SPH)

9. Alat pengukur pH dan EC meter

 

11

[ ] August 21, 2015

Teknologi penanaman tanaman terpilih menggunakan kaedah

fertigasi menjanjikan pulangan modal pelaburan sekiranya

dilaksanakan dengan betul dalam masa yang singka

KESAN MENGGUNAKAN BAJA COMPOUND

NPK PADA FERTIGASI

By عبدالرحمن on Tuesday, 4 March 2014 at 09:25 محمد

Kenapa tak guna baja NPK biasa untuk fertigasi. Jauh lagi murah,

lagi senang urus. Ok biar saya jelaskan disini.

 

1: tujuan kita buat fertigasi adalah untuk mendekatkan pertanian kita

kepada precision farming. Kita bagi cukup cukup baja dan air yang

diperlukan pokok untuk optimum output. Untuk dapat lebih kawalan

pada nutrient uptake plantation kita. Ini sukar untuk dikawal dengan

baja NPK. Contoh: Nitrogen dalam baja NPK adalah dalam bentuk

ammonium atau urea base. Ada juga yang ada campur dalam bentuk

Nitrate (biasa ni lagi mahal). Pokok kita ambil nitrogen dalam bentuk

Nitrate dan ammonium. Pengambilan dari bentuk ammonium adalah

perlahan disebabkan ia tidak mobile berbanding nitrate. Jadi akar

perlu cari baja ni, berbanding nitrate yang sendiri mobile kearah

akar. Bila ammonia tidak diambil, ia juga akan transform ke bentuk

nitrate (penjelasan dibawah) Dari ammonia, nutrient perlu lalui

process nitrification yang mana dalam process ini, nitrous oxide dan

nitric oxide dilepaskan ke udara, hilang nutrien kita disitu. Yang

paling merisaukan adalah, process nitrification ni ambil masa dari

beberapa hari, ke beberapa minggu. Bila sebenarnya pokok kita

dapat baja yang kita letak ni? Ruang legar nutrient ni kecil (16x18

dan sebagainya) kalau terlebih? terkurang? pengubahsuaian almost

impossible. Symptom kurang nitrogen dah mula kelihatan. Kita

tambah baja, minggu depan jadi nirogen toxicity pulak.. Process ini

juga kebanyakannya dilakukan oleh soil bacteria, pada cocopeat, not

very much. Perlu juga ambil kira leaching, pokok belum sempat

ambil baja, hujan, baja keluar dari polybag.

 

2: point 2 ni yang paling merisaukan, Urea Based NPK fertilizers

(paling murah). Untuk baja jenis ini, process nak ke nitrate lagi

panjang. Urea-hydrolysis-nitrification-plant uptake (nitrate) .

Kehilangan nutrient disini adalah jauh lebih tinggi. % nitrogen yang

sampai ke pokok sangat rendah. Lagi teruk ialah fact yang process

hydrolysis ini mengalkalikan tanah dalam short term, tetapi selepas

itu mengasidkan tanah. Application mengalkalikan tanah, pelepasan

carbon-dioxide dari process hydrolysis mengasidkan tanah. Dah PH

medium tak stable. Ni Antara sebab air dan tanah dikawasan ladang

sawit sangat acidic. Banyak urea application. Kalau ini diamalkan ke

cocopeat, boleh hampir pasti selepas satu musim, tuan puan dah kene

tukar medium tanaman sebab terlalu berasid. Yang dah cuba

12

[ ] August 21, 2015

mungkin dah rasa. Cost tukar media tanaman, rasa kita semua pun

well aware.

 

2 points sahaja saya letak sini harini. Jadi kepada yang terfikir nak

cuba, ini Antara yang perlu anda ambil kira. Mencelah sikit, tengah

bulan ni saya ada buat penghantaran baja fertigasi Yara ke tanjung

malim. Kepada sesiapa di kawasan perak nak order baja dan jimat

cost penghantaran, sila order secepat mungkin. Ada ruang untuk 20

sets lagi. Call/sms/whatsapp Adam (012 771 7863) email:

montmelony@gmail.com

Baja Fertigasi Cili Untuk Pertumbuhan -

Mohammad Abdul Rahman

By عبدالرحمن on Sunday, 14 August 2011 at 21:24 محمد

salam dan selamat menjalankan ibadah puasa pada keluarga BJ

semua, di sebabkan banyak posting berkaitan pengiraan untuk

membuat baja fertigasi dah hilang kena godam, saya cuba copy &

paste apa yang saya postkan kat " 1 MALAYSIA FERTGASI" group

dalam facebook, untuk rujukan semua sila copy &paste kat dokumen

sendiri supaya tidak hilang dan jadikan sebagai rujukan:

pengiraan untuk baja cili peringkat pertumbuhan: pada masa ni

pokok perlukan : 240ppm N, 50ppm P, 280ppm K, 50ppm Mg,

170ppm Ca, 6ppm Fe, Mn 2ppm, Cu o.07ppm, Zn 0.25ppm , B

0.7ppm, Mo 0.05ppm

dari nilai keperluan ppm , kita akan kira berat bahan satu persatu

untuk dapatkan ppm Ca, kita gunakan calcium nitrate bergred Ca

19% dan N 15.5%:

ppm Ca 170ppm, jadi berat bahan baja CaNO3 = 170/0.19

=894.736mg, tapi stok kita 100lit dan kadar bancuhan 1:100, jadi

berat CaNO3 =( 894.736 x 100 x 100)/(1000 x 1000)

=8.947kg>>1000 x 1000 tu adalah conversion dari mg ke gm ke kg

ok sekarang kita sudah dapat berat bahan CaNO3 untuk dapatkan

170ppm Ca, dari berat bahan tersebut, kita kira pula berapa ppm N

yang terkandung: berat CaNO3 = 8.947kg = 8,947,000mg, bahagi

balik dengan stok dan mix ratio = 8,947,000/(100 x 100) =

894.700mg/lit, jadi nilai ppm N terkandung = 894.700 x 15.5% =

139mg/lit = 139ppm, kita masih kekurangan ( 240-139) = 101ppm

N....nanti kita guna bahan lain untuk dapatkan nilai N yang tak cukup

ni

supaya N dan K balance semasa pengiraan kita kena andaikan N

=220ppm, jadi N sebenar tak mencukupi = 220-139=81ppm.

nilai ppm N yang tak di kira ( 240-220) = 20ppm 

note: sebenarnya masa pertumbuhan awal kita buleh naikan N

260ppm untuk kesuburan awal, tuan2 buleh setkan N 250ppm, jadi N

13

[ ] August 21, 2015

yang tak termasuk pengiraan ni = 250-220ppm = 30ppm, untuk

dapatkan N ni kita guna bahan baja yang ada N sja spt Ammnium

nitrate AN...yang ni kita kira trakhir sekali

__________________

sekarang kita kira ppm bahan untuk dapatkan N 81ppm

kita gunakan Potassium nitrate PN, dalam PN ada 13.85%N dan

38.6%K

kita kira berat PN untuk dapatkan 81ppm N

berat PN = 81ppm/13.85% = 584.8375mg/lit, untuk stokk 100lit dan

mix 1:100, berat PN = 584.8375 x 100 x 100 = 5,848,375mg =

5.85kg

Berat bahan PN = 5.85kg; dalam bahan ni ada K, jadi kita kira nilai

ppm K : ppm K = 584.8375mg/lit x 38.6% =226ppm K,

tapi kita perlukan 280ppm K, jadi kita masih kena cari lagi ( 280-

226) = 54ppm K...........nanti kita gunakan MKP ( monopotassium

phosphate) untuk dapatkan 54ppm K ni

dari MKP kita akan dapat ppm P dan K, dari jadual kehendak kita

perlukan 50ppm P:

dalam MKP ada 22.78% P dan 28.73% K

brat bahan MKP untukl dapatkan 50ppm P = 50ppm/22.78% =

219.491mg; berat untuk stok 100 lit dan mix 100 = 2,194,91omg =

2.19kg MKP

sebenarnya kita buleh setkan keperluan baja mengikut bulan atau

minggu, contohnya kalu minggu pertama, kita perlukan ppm spt

diatas, tapi bila pokok besar sikit kita perlukan Mg dan P tinggi

sikit, katakan P 55ppm dan Mg55ppm dan K 300ppm, jadi kalu kita

gunakan excell, dan masukan variable tersebut, secara automatik di

kira berat bahan, jadi baja kita tak static, contohnya jika bancuhan

batch pertama dah habis dalam seminggu, kita buleh bancuh batch

kedua denagn nilai ppm berlainan, jadi pokok akan merasa lebih sikit

keperluan bila masuk minggu kedua dan sterusnya

untuk menaikan ppm element memang kita buleh naikan ec atau

TDS, tapi cara ni akan menaikan semua element baja, sedangkan kita

nak sesetengah element saja tinggi, dan mengekal sukatan element

lain, atau nak turunkan element lain dan nak naikkan element lain

back to kuliah>>>> kita sudah dapat berat MKP = 2.19 kg, sekarang

kita kira berapa ppm K terkandung;

percent K dalam MKP = 28.73%

nilai ppm K = 219.40mg x 28.73% = 63ppm

sekarang kita dah berlebihan (63-54) = 9ppm K

ppm K terlebih sikit tak mengapa, tapi jangan melebih tinggi sangat,

jadi kalau mau tepat kita kena kurangkan ppm N untuk pengiraan

dari 220 ke 210 atau 200 ppm, bila kita kurangkan ke 215ppm , K

dari PN akan berkurang: 

14

[ ] August 21, 2015

sekarang nilai N yang di perlukan menjadi ( 215-139)=76 ppm 

139 adalah nilai ppm N dari CN

jadi berat baru PN = 76ppm/13.85% = 548.736mg/lit 

berat bahan PN pada 100lit stok dan 1:100 mix ratio 

=(548.736 x 100 x 100)/1000 x 1000 = 5.48 kg

Nilai ppm K dari 5.48 kg PN = 548.736 x 38.6% = 212 ppm

sekaran kita kurang ( 280-212)= 58 ppm

tapi K yang didapati dari MKP = 63ppm

jadi kelebihan 63-58 = 5ppm..........

jadi jumlah K semua dari PN dan MKP = 212 + 63ppm = 285 ppm

nilai 285 ppm dikira baik untuk pertumbuhan, jadi tak perlu lagi di

tambah K2SO4.

jadi nilai ppm N di dapati dari CN dan PN= 139-76 =

215ppm.....nilai ni 

jadi kita tertinggal lagi 35ppm N .....nanti kita kira ambil dari AN

K dari PN + MKP = 212 + 63 = 275 ppm. Bukan 285 ppm.

Pembetulan!

dari pengiraan diatas, kita dapat berat bahan spt berikut :

CaNO3..... 8.95kg

KNO3........5.48 kg

MKP .........2.19 kg

sekarang kita kira pula berat MgSO4 yang memberi kita 50ppm Mg

percentage Mg terkandung dalam MgSO4 adalah 9.80%

jadi berat MgsO4 = 50ppm / 9.80% = 510mg/lit

berat untuk 100lit stok dan mix ratio 1:100 = (510 x 100 x100)/(1000

x 1000) = 5.10 kg

Berat Magnesium sulfate adala 5.10kg

__________________

pengiraan ppm N yang tak mencukupi sebanyak (250-215) = 35ppm,

kita andaikan bahawa ppm N adalah 250 ppm untuk pertumbuhan

vegetative yang cepat 

kita gunakan ammonium nitrate AN, dalam bahan ni terdapat 34% N

berat AN untuk dapatkan 35ppm N = 35ppm/34% = 102.9411mg/lit

untuk stok 100lit dan mix ratio 1:100, 

Berat AN = (102.9411 x 100 x100)/(1000 x 1000) = 1.03kg (1.0 kg)

dimanakah harus AN di masukan , stok A atau Stok B ???, untuk

kebaikan bancuhan kelak, di sarankan stok berasing stok C, untuk

stok C ni tak perlulah guna tong 100 lit, memadai guna bekas 25 lit

sahaja, untuk 1kg AN, ianya mudah terlarut walaupun dalam air

sedikit 25 lit.

bila menggunakan stok begini, setiap lit stok A dan B, kita perlu 1/4

lit stok C sahaja untuk di masukkan dalam tangki baja.

15

[ ] August 21, 2015

selain menggunakan AN, kita buleh gunakan diammonium

phosphate DAP, DAP mempunyai grad NPK 18:46:0, 46 % tu

adalah phosphate, jadi percent element P = 46 x 0.43 = 19.78 % P

jadi berat DAP untuk dapatkan 35ppm N = 35ppm/18% =

194.444mg/lit

untuk stok 100 lit dan mix 1:100, berat DAP = (194.444 x 100 x

100)/(1000 x 1000) = 1.94 kg 

dalam DAP ni ada 19.8% P, jadi ppm P = 194.44 x 19.8% = 38ppm

jadi kalu kita guna DAP, total ppm P = 50 (dari MAP) = 38 (dari

DAP) = 88ppm

saya menggunakan DAP masa pertumbuhan walaupun total ppm P

tinggi, pada waktu awal pertumbuhan P tinggi amat baik untuk

pembentukan akar yang banya dengan cepat, dan kesuburan amat

baik bila banyak akar menyedut nutrients. DAP pun buleh letak juga

kat stok C 25 lit. 

perlu di ingat, DAP amat alkali, jadi bancuhan baja kita akan tinggi

pH sampai 7 lebih, untuk itu, kita kena pakai nitrik asid atau

phosphoric atau sulfuric asid untuk menurunkan pH.

Dan jika kita bancuh baja untuk peroduction, biasanya pH akan turun

sampai 5, jadi menambah sedikit sedikit DAP akan menaikan pH

yang di perlukan, kita tak perlu KOH..........juga amat baik sebab

masa production kita tambah P yang amat di perlukan di sanping K

dari K2SO4, masa ni P 70-80ppm

selesai pengiraan macro:

CaNO3..... 8.95kg

KNO3........5.48 kg

MKP .........2.19 kg

MgSO4.......5.10 kg

AN..........1.00 kg

DAP......1.90 kg ( optional)

kita masuk pula bahagia pengiraan micro element:

Fe,Cu,ZN,Mn,B,Mo

nota:

:apa baja yg dibolehkan tuk baja A dan Baja B,Cthnya baja A

selalunya mengandungi CaNO3 dan Fe EDTA atau boleh

ditambahkan Ammoniuum nitrat? dan baja B setengah kata PN

dalam baja B,atau boleh masuk Dalam A dan B untuk PN?

kalu ikutkan kajian kimia secara sceintific " never mix nitrates dan

phospahate atu sulfate" jadi kita taklehlah bih 1/2 PN kat stok B..tapi

mardi atau JP dia boh kat B...sebab tu baja jadi keladak hasil

tindakbalas kimia

kenapa sestengah formula orang yang jual baja dan juga mardi dan

JP boh 1/2 PN dalam B....saya rasa untuk balancekan berat guni A

dan B

16

[ ] August 21, 2015

dar formula atas berat stok A 14.84 kg dan berat sto B

8.70kg...paking begini susah bagi mereka untuk transport, jadi kena

seimbanglah berat A dan B,

buleh tambah urae dalam tangki baja, tapi tak buleh boh dalam stok.

kita kiralah berap ppm N kita mau, contoh kita mau tambah 20ppm

N, jadi berat urea = 20ppm/46% = 43.47mg/lit, kalu tanki baja kita

muat 2,000 lit sekali bancuh, berat urea = 43.47 x 2000 = 86956mg =

87 gm sahaja......elok buat begini, nak pakai baru boh dalam tangki

__________________

kita bincang pengiraan untuk micro Fe, untuk dapatkan Fe buleh

guna FeSO4 atau Fe-Edta.......biasanya kita gunakan edta sebab

senang dapat di pasaran: dalam Fe-Edta ada 13% Fe ( kalu lain

percent buleh ejas ikut cara kira )

kita perlukan Fe 6ppm, jadi berat edta = 6ppm/13% = 46.153

untuk 100 lit stok dan mix ratio 1:100, beart Fe-Edta = (46.153 x 100

x 100)/(1000 ) = 461gm

Berat Fe-Edta adalah 460gm (ok)

pengiraan berat micro B dari boric acid, dalam boric terkandung

17.5% boron...( tuan2 cek balik mungkin boric asid tuan lain nilai

percentnya..sebab bergantung pada hydrous atau unhydrous) saya

guna kandunagn 17.5%.....kita perlukan 0.7ppm B

Berat boric acid = 0.7ppm/17.5% = 4.0000mg, berat untuk stok

100lit dan mix ratio 1:100 ;

(4.00 x 100 x 100)/(1000) = 40gm

Berat boric acid ( 17.5% B) = 40gm.

kalau guna hibor, berat = 0.7 ppm/60% = 1.1667mg

Berat HIBOR di gunakan = 11.67gm ...(12gm ok)

pengiraan micro Mn dari Mn-Edta...terkandung 13% Mn

keperluan Mn 2ppm; berat edta = 2ppm/13% = 15.38mg

untuk stok 100lit dan mix ratio 1:100

Berat Edta = 15.38 x 100 x 100/1000 = 154 gm

pengiraan berat Zn-Edta ,percent Zn terkandung 14%, ppm Zn di

perlukan 0.25ppm

berat Edta = 0.25ppm/14% =1.785mg

berat untuk stok 100 lit dan mix ratio 1:100 ; 1.785 x 100 x 100/1000

= 17.85gm ( 18gm ok)

Berat Zn-EDta ialah 18 gm

Pengiraan berat Cu-Edta untuk dapatkan 0.07ppm Cu, percent Cu

terkandung dalam Edta adalah 14%.

berat edta di perlukan = 0.07ppm/14% = 0.50mg/lit

berat untuk stok 100 lit dan mix ratio 1:100 = 0.5 x 100 x 100/1000 =

5.0 gm

Berat Cu-Edta yang patut di gunakan adalah 5.00 gm

17

[ ] August 21, 2015

Pengiraan berat sodium molybdate, 39% Mo ( cek kandungan

percent yang tuan2 guna), keperluan Mo 0.05ppm.

berat sodium molibdate = 0.05ppm/39% = 0.128mg/lit

berat untuk stok 100 lit dan mix ratio 1:100 = 0.128 x 100x100/1000

= 1.28gm ( 1gm ok)

berat sodium molibdate adalah 1.0 gm

Ringkasan:

Formula cili untuk pertumbuhan awal ( vegetative phase)

stok A

CaNO3..... 8.95kg

KNO3........5.48 kg

Fe-Edta......460 gm

Stok B

MKP .........2.19 kg

MgSO4.......5.10 kg

AN..........1.00 kg

DAP......1.90 kg ( optional)

Mn-Edta .....154gm

Cu-Edta........5.0 gm

Zn-Edta........ 18.0 gm

Boric asid.......40 gm atau

Hibor............12.0 gm

Sodium molybdate ... 1.0 gm

Formula ini di gunakan untuk pertumbuhan awal, bila sudah nampak

bunga, tukarlah formula untk pembajaan production

pada taha vegetative, keperluan NPK amat tinggi, untuk itu,

penggunaan EC bermula 1.2 selepas pindah dan di naikan perlahan

sampai ec 2.3 sampai nampak bunga....kenikan EC buleh di laras

setiap 3 hari sekali, pH tahap ni tinggikan sikit kepada 6.2 untuk

mengoptimumkan serapan NPK untuk pertumbuhan awal, pH di

turunkan bila pokok mencapai fasa production pH 5.8-

6.2....bergantung juga jenis media di gunakan, kalu 100% sabut

maintain 6.2 amat baik, sebab dalam media sabut baja akan men jadi

pH 6 atau kurang, kalu campuran dengan sekam padi buleh kekalkan

pH 6, sekam buleh bertindak sebagai pH buffer

guna dari stok C 1/4 lit saja untuk setiap lit stok A dan B...masuk

dalam tangki baja

--------------- NOTA ----------------

CaNO3>>calcium nitrate

KNO3 >> potassium ( kalium) nitrate

MgSO4 >>Magnesium sulfate

MKP >>> monopotassium phosphate

18

[ ] August 21, 2015

K2SO4 >>>potassium sulfate

DAP >>diammonium phosphate

AN >>ammonium nitrate

RESEPI MEDIA POLIBAG ATAU BATAS

TANAH - Mohammad Abdul Rahman

By عبدالرحمن on Wednesday, 30 January 2013 at 11:43 محمد

Recipes for Success: Building Your Own Organic Potting Soil

January 2013

People choose do-it-yourself projects for many reasons. Some like

the satisfaction of completing a task on their own, while others like

the idea of having absolute control over their materials, methods and

finished product. Another reason people choose do-it-yourself

projects is price. Generally speaking, providing your own labor will

produce a product for a much low price than hiring out the work

would.

Building your own organic potting soil is no different than any other

do-it-yourself project. It allows the gardener to save money while

maintaining control over every aspect of the soil building process.

Some might also argue that it produces a superior product.

However, before we dive into soil recipes, let’s first examine some

of the more common ingredients used in potting soils. There is no

shortage of organic soil amendments to choose from. Once an

understanding of the physical properties and nutrient value of each

ingredient is reached it then becomes possible to customize soil

mixtures not only for particular crops, but also for specific periods in

a plant’s life cycle (blooming or flowering periods).

 

Base ingredients

The base ingredients of a soil are the substances that make up the

bulk of the soil itself. These are the ingredients that are most

responsible for the soil’s physical properties and texture. Some of

these also make up the backbone of the nutrient content.

 

Sphagnum peat moss

Sphagnum peat moss has been a popular soil additive since the

inception of potting soils. The physical properties of peat moss allow

for high moisture retention, as well as high oxygen content. This

combination of water and oxygen retention makes a great

environment for developing roots and is the main reason peat moss is

the most popular ingredient in premade potting soils. It is not

uncommon for peat moss to make up 30 to 60% of a premade soil

mixture.

19

[ ] August 21, 2015

 

Coco coir

Many soil companies are incorporating coco coir (coconut husks) as

either the base or secondary ingredient in their potting soil mixes.

Coco coir is a by-product of the coconut industry and is more

environmentally friendly than sphagnum peat moss. It is able to hold

moisture and oxygen like peat moss; in fact, it actually has slightly

higher oxygen retention. This fact alone has made coco coir’s

popularity increase among indoor gardeners and greenhouse

horticulturalists.

 

Compost

Compost is a general term referring to aged and broken down

organic matter. It can be made from a number of different sources,

but it’s usually derived from plant material or manure. Although

compost usually isn’t used in as high of a volume as peat moss or

coco coir, its role as a base ingredient is just as crucial. Not only

does compost have significant nutrient value, but it also provides an

abundance of microbial life to the soil mixture. These beneficial

microorganisms are the foundation for nutrient uptake and the

stimulation of root development.

 

Worm castings

Like compost, worm castings—or, vermicompost—are a significant

source of nutrient value and beneficial microorganisms. Revered by

many organic growers as the best soil additive available, worm

castings are known to enrich soils and improve disease resistance in

crops. If you choose to use worm castings as an ingredient in your

potting soil, be sure to purchase pure worm castings. There are many

products on the market that are labeled as worm castings but only

contain a small percentage of actual worm castings in their

composition.

 

Aeration additives

Perlite

Perlite is expanded volcanic glass and adds air pockets to soils. Soils

with added perlite will dry out quickly between each watering, which

gives a grower more control over a feeding regiment. Perlite is light

weight and relatively inexpensive, which makes it the most popular

choice among commercial potting soil manufacturers.

Pumice

Pumice is a type of volcanic rock that is naturally porous. Like

perlite, pumice has the ability to add air pockets in a soil, which

results in higher oxygen content around the plant’s roots. Pumice is

less commonly used by commercial manufacturers, however, simply

because it is heavy and, therefore, expensive to ship.

 

Individual organic ingredients

By using individual organic ingredients along with the base, a

grower can tailor their soil to meet the needs of any crop. Most of the

20

[ ] August 21, 2015

following ingredients can be obtained at your local hydroponic

retailer or local garden supply store.

 

Common nitrogen (N) ingredients:

Blood meal

This is an extremely rich, fast-releasing nitrogen source. Blood meal

is a great additive for plants that require high amounts of nitrogen.

Fish meal

Fish meal is another fast-releasing nitrogen source. It’s a great

nitrogen additive that enhances microbial life in the soil. Fish meal

also contains a significant amount of phosphorus, which helps trigger

root development.

Feather meal

Feather meal is a slow-releasing nitrogen source best used on plants

that require high amounts of nitrogen over a three to four month

period.

Soybean meal

This slow-releasing nitrogen source is not quite as slow as feather

meal. It’s a great additive for plants that require adequate nitrogen

for two to three months and that need a little phosphorus boost to

help promote fruiting or flowering.

Bat guano (high nitrogen)

There are many compositions of bat guano on the market, including

high-nitrogen bat guano. High-nitrogen bat guano is rich in

micronutrients, beneficial microbes and, of course, nitrogen. This

beneficial diversity combined with fast-releasing nitrogen makes

high-nitrogen bat guano the fertilizer of choice for many organic

growers.

 

Common phosphorus (P) ingredients:

Bat guano (high phosphorus)

High-phosphorus bat guano is an excellent source of phosphorus that

is known to not only increase flower and fruit sets, but also their size,

aroma and flavor. Many brands of high-phosphorus bat guano are

also a great source of calcium.

Bone meal

This excellent source of phosphorous is revered for its ability to

promote strong root development. Bone meal is also a great source

of calcium.

Fish bone meal

Fish bone meal is basically the same thing as bone meal except it is

derived from fish. It is a great source of phosphorus and calcium.

Seabird guano

Seabird guano, like bat guano, is known to increase the amount and

size of flower and fruit sets. It is also an excellent source of

phosphorus and micronutrients.

Rock phosphate

Rock phosphate is a slow-releasing phosphorus source that is

commonly extracted into a liquid form to increase availability. It is

21

[ ] August 21, 2015

best used for plants that need a slow and constant release of

phosphorus.

 

Common potassium (K) ingredients:

Hardwood ash

This is the original source of potash fertilizers. Hardwood ash can be

used as a direct soil additive to increase potassium levels; however,

most of the time, it has already been added to the compost for that

same purpose.

Kelp meal

Kelp meal is a source of readily available potassium and a variety of

micronutrients and plant hormones. This great soil additive can

increase overall plant health and vigor.

Greensand

Greensand is a slow-releasing potassium source. Generally speaking,

greensand is used to improve soil’s condition rather than boost

potassium content.

Langbeinite

Langbeinite is a natural occurring mineral which is water soluble. It

is a good source of potassium, sulfur and magnesium.

 

Secondary and trace elements:

Oyster shell

This is an excellent source of calcium that will accelerate root

development and, in turn, improve nutrient uptake. Oyster shell also

works as a pH buffer, helping to keep the soil from becoming too

acidic.

Dolomite lime (sweet lime)

Dolomite lime is a great pH buffer for any soil composition and—

like oyster shell—it ensures the soil’s pH doesn’t turn too acidic. It

also a rich source of calcium and magnesium.

Glacier Rock Dust

This soil amendment revitalizes trace elements and provides a

foundation of minerals for healthy plant growth.

Alfalfa meal

Alfalfa meal is rich in trace elements, but it’s the abundance of

natural growth stimulators in this product that has gained recognition

among organic horticulturalists. Alfalfa meal will accelerate growth

rates while promoting abundant fruit or flowers.

 

Beneficial microorganisms

Although many common soil ingredients already contain a good

amount of beneficial microorganisms, it has become second nature

for many organic gardeners to supplement additional

microorganisms into their soil. Three beneficial microorganisms are

commonly used by horticulturalists are trichoderma, mycorrhiza and

bacteria.

 

Soil recipes

22

[ ] August 21, 2015

As written, the recipes below will produce around 2 cu. ft. of soil—

or, roughly the amount you would find in a single large bag of

potting soil. Of course, the ingredients can be proportionally

increased or decreased to produce the desired amount of potting soil.

Also, feel free to add your favorite beneficial microorganism

supplement to increase the beneficial microbial population. Indeed,

do not take these recipes as though they were written in stone. Use

them as a reference or as a way to inspire some thought into the

nutrient content of your own potting soil and how this coincides with

the life cycle of your plants.

To make each mix, simply combine all of the ingredients by hand,

rake or shovel in a kiddie pool, tarp, large wash bin or plastic storage

container. Just make sure to mix the ingredients thoroughly to ensure

a uniform soil mixture.

 

Basic potting soil recipe

This basic recipe creates a soil with a high air-to-water ratio and can

be used for almost any variety of plant. This is a great soil recipe for

growers wishing to complement their homemade soils with liquid

teas or fertilizers. This is also a great starting recipe to use as the

foundation for custom, plant-specific soils, which can be created by

with addition of other individual ingredients.

1/2 cu. ft. (60 cups) compost

1/2 cu. ft. (60 cups) sphagnum peat moss

1/2 cu. ft. (60 cups) coco coir

20 cups perlite

5 cups worm castings

1/2 cup oyster shell

2 tbsp. langbeinite

1 tbsp. glacier rock dust

 

Enhanced vegetative potting soil recipe

This nitrogen-rich soil mixture is great for the vegetative stage of

fast-growing annual plants that will later be transplanted, or for green

leafy crops that spend their whole life cycle in a perpetual vegetative

stage. This mix is very well-aerated and will promote strong root

growth and vigorous vegetative growth.

1/2 cu. ft. (60 cups) sphagnum peat moss

1/4 cu. ft. (30 cups) coco coir

1/4 cu. ft. (30 cups) compost

1/4 cu. ft. (30 cups) perlite

10 cups worm castings

10 cups pumice

2 cups fish meal

1 cup oyster shell

1/2 cup alfalfa meal

1/2 cup soybean meal

1/4 cup kelp meal

1/4 cup fish bone meal

2 tbsp. langbeinite

23

[ ] August 21, 2015

1 tbsp. glacier rock dust

 

Enhanced fruit/flower potting soil recipe

This soil recipe is designed for plants that are ready to fruit or

flower. In particular, this recipe works great for ornamentals that are

already in bloom and for fast-growing annuals that are entering their

fruiting or flowering stage.

1/2 cu. ft. (60 cups) sphagnum peat moss

1/4 cu. ft. (30 cups) coco coir

1/4 cu. ft. (30 cups) compost

1/4 cu. ft. (30 cups) perlite

10 cups pumice

5 cups worm castings

3 cups bat guano (high phosphorus)

1 cup fish bone meal

1 cup oyster shell

1/2 cup seabird guano

1/4 cup alfalfa meal

1/4 cup fish meal

2 tbsp. langbeinite

1 tbsp. glacier rock dust

 

Entire life cycle soil recipe (for heavy feeders)

This soil mixture is designed to meet the demands of heavy feeding,

fast-growing annual plants throughout their entire life cycle. This

soil is powerful and should only be used on plant varieties that are

known to be heavy feeders. The organic fertilizers in this soil

mixture will sustain a heavy-feeding crop for about three months.

The soil is designed to break down in a manner that first delivers

readily available nitrogen for a vigorous vegetative stage (for about a

month) then, as the soil’s composition changes, it will start to release

more elements specific to fruiting/flowering. 

1/2 cu. ft. (60 cups) compost

1/2 cu. ft. (60 cups) sphagnum peat moss

1/2 cu. ft. (60 cups) coco coir

1/4 cu. ft. (30 cups) perlite

20 cups pumice

15 cups worm castings

2 cups blood meal

2 cups fish meal

2 cups bat guano (high phosphorus)

1 cup oyster shell

1 cup dolomite lime

1 cup soybean meal

1 cup bat guano (high nitrogen)

1 cup bone meal

1 cup fish bone meal

1 cup rock phosphate

24

[ ] August 21, 2015

3 tbsp. langbeinite

1.5 tbsp. glacier rock dust

Although the process of building your own organic potting soil can

be somewhat labor intensive (especially on a large scale), it is a

relatively easy process overall that can be extremely rewarding. Not

only is there a sense of accomplishment when you complete a

homemade potting soil, but it is also a stride forward in creating the

ultimate diet for your plants. Growers who build soils specific to

their crop’s ideal nutritional intake will not only see heightened

garden performance, but less nutrient deficiencies, diseases, insect

infestations and any other problems associated with an incomplete

diet. Through your own experiments, you can find the perfect blend

of ingredients required by your plants to enhance their performance

and achieve optimal results.

PENYAKIT CILI- ANTRAKNOS DAN LAIN2:

By عبدالرحمن on Friday, 11 October 2013 at 22:39 محمد

Antracnose

Antracnose dikenal juga dengan istilah “pathek” adalah penyakit

yang hingga saat ini masih menjadi momok bagi petani cabai. Buah

yang menunggu panen dalam beberapa waktu berubah menjadi

busuk oleh penyakit ini. Gejala awal dari serangan penyakit ini

adalah bercak yang agak mengkilap, sedikit terbenam dan berair,

buah akan berubah menjadi coklat kehitaman dan membusuk.

Ledakan penyakit ini sangat cepat pada musim hujan. Penyebab

penyakit ini adalah jamur carnifora capsici.Pengendalian

membersikan tanaman yang terserang agar tidak menyebar, saat

pemilihan benih harus kita lakukan secara selektif, menanam benih

cabai yang memiliki ketahanan terhadap penyakit pathek. Secara

kimia, disemprot dengan fungisida sistemik berbahan aktif

triadianefon dicampur dengan fungisida kontak berbahan aktif

tembaga hidroksida seperti Kocide 54WDG, atau yang berbahan

aktif Mankozeb seperti Victory 80WP.

Layu Bakteri

Penyakit ini disebabkan oleh Pseudomonas solanacearum. Gejalanya

tanaman yang sehat tiba-tiba saja layu yang dalam waktu tidak

sampai 3 hari tanaman mati. Bakteri ini ditularkan melalui tanah,

benih, bibit, sisa tanaman, pengairan,nematoda atau alat-alat

pertanian.Pengendalian membuang tanaman yang terserang, tetap

menjaga bedengan tanaman selalu dalam kondisi kering, rotasi

tanaman. Secara kimiawi, semprot dengan larutan Kocide 77WP

konsentrasi 5 - 10 gr/liter pada lubang tanam sebanyak 200

ml/tanaman interval 10 - 14 hari dan dimulai saat tanaman mulai

berbunga.

Virus Kuning (gemini virus)

Vektor virus kuning adalah whitefly atau kutu kebul (Bemisia

tabaci). Telur diletakkan di bawah daun, fase telur hanya 7 hari.

25

[ ] August 21, 2015

Nimpa bertungkai yang berfungsi untuk merangkak lama hidup 2-6

hari. Pupa berbentuk oval, agak pipih berwarna hijau keputih-putihan

sampai kekuning-kuningan pupa terdapat dibawah permukaan daun,

lama hidup 6 hari. Serangga dewasa berukuran kecil, berwarna putih

dan mudah diamati karena dibawah permukaan daun yang bertepung,

lama hidup 20-38 hari. Tanaman yang terserang penyakit virus

kuning menimbulkan gejala daun mengeriting dan ukuran lebih

kecil.Pengendalian dilakukan dengan menanam varietas yang agak

tahan (contoh cabai keriting Bukittinggi), menggunakan bibit yang

sehat, melakukan rotasi /pergiliran tanaman, pemanfaatan tanaman

border seperti tagetes atau jagung, pemasangan perangkap kuning

sekaligus mengendalikan kutu kebul, serta eradikasi tanaman sakit

yaitu tanaman yang menunjukkan gejala dicabut dan dibakar. 

Antraknos menjadi penyakit yang muncul ke 2, setelah diawali

dengan adanya sunscall. Sunscall biasanya akan dimulai dari buah

yang berada pada sisi timur.Sunscall bukan penyakit tetapi bisa

merupakan penyebap/pemicu, munculnya penyakit seperti antraknos.

Cuka Kayu by Azrin Hashim

By Imran Faizal on Friday, 4 October 2013 at 16:09

Banyak manfaat boleh didapati dari Cuka kayu dalam sektor

Pertanian.

 

1. Dapat menghalang pembiakan virus dan penyakit dalam tanah.

2. Dapat menghalang virus dan menghalau serangga perosak

untuk memperbaiki keadaan tanah.

3. Dapat mengurangkan kerosakan oleh penyakit tumbuh-

tumbuhan dan serangga berbahaya walaupun penanaman

berulang kali

4. Dapat mengurangkan 50% racun perosak pertanian komersial,

racun kulat, racun herba dan baja kimia.

5. Merangsang pertumbuhan pokok dan sayuran.

6. Menguatkan akar dan daun.

7. Menyuburkan tanah.

8. Menambah kuantiti mikrob yang berguna.

9. Mengelakkan penyakit yang disebabkan oleh bakteria.

10. Menambah baik kualiti buah dan menambah kandungan gula

dalam buah.

26

[ ] August 21, 2015

11. Sebagai pemangkin tumbesaran biji benih.

12. Sebagai bahan tambahan kepada baja kompos.

13. Membantu haiwan ternakan lebih sihat dan melindungi dari

penyakit. Menjadikan daging haiwan dan susu lebih berkualiti.

 Aplikasi & Penggunaan Pertanian 

1.Untuk kawalan makhluk perosak dan mikroorganisma pada

lubang tanaman, cairkan pada nisbah 1:50 (cuka kayu : air) 10

hari sebelum menanam, siramkan pada lubang tanaman.

2.Untuk mengelakkan hama dalam proses pembenihan, cairkan

pada nisbah 1:800, semburkan pada benih di tapak semaian

setiap 10 hari.

3.Untuk mengawal makhluk perosak dan membunuh kulat

merbahaya, cairkan pada nisbah 1:200, semburkan pada pucuk

dan daun seminggu sekali.

4.Untuk membasmikuman dan meneutralkan pH tanah, cairkan

pada nisbah 1:300, siramkan pada akar pokok.

5.Untuk mengurangkan buah gugur dan menambah kualiti buah,

cairkan pada nisbah 1:500, semburkan pada putik buah.

6.Untuk kawalan serangga, gunakan pada kecairan 1:1000 dan

campurkan dengan 50% kepekatan racun serangga dari biasa.

7.Untuk kawalan rumpai/lumut, nisbah 1:5, semburkan terus

pada rumpai/lumut.

CILI MERAH - INFO HYBRID-Mohammad

Abdul Rahman

By عبدالرحمن on Monday, 29 July 2013 at 13:31 محمد

Info hibrid cili merah

MC 11 -Tinggi pokok 80-110 cm,

-panjang buah 8-10 cm, 7-10g/biji

MC 12 -Tinggi pokok 60-80 cm,

-panjang buah 10-13 cm, 12 – 14 g/biji,

hybrid F1 469 -180 biji sepokok

-ketinggian pokok 35 cm

hybrid 833

-ketinggian pokok 2- 6 kaki

-55 biji berat utk 1 kg buah bagi sepokok

s469

- amat pedas, bukan plastik, besar mencecah 20cm.

-amat besar, maka ia kurang sesuai untuk tanaman secara komersial

- kurang digemari pengguna.

-1gm (140-150biji)

27

[ ] August 21, 2015

568

- kurang pedas, bukan plastik, rupa dan saiz = Kulai.

Kulai tempatan

-amat sesuai untuk tanaman secara komersial

-lebih pedas dan mudah dihancurkan tidak liat mudah dibuat sos

hybrid 568

-Buah pertama 40-90 biji (40-45 biji/kg)

-setiap pkk leh menghasilkan 2-2.5 kg.

-Tinggi pkk 4 kaki -buah kurang pedas -sambil berbuah sambil

berpucuk @ berbunga..

-Pasaran tiada masalah langsung.

Perbandingan Kulai Tempatan, Kulai 568, F1 469

- Kulai Tempatan pokoknya terlalu besar, 568 kecik, 469 sangat

kecik

- Kulai Tempatan bunga sangat mudah gugur, 568 gugur sikit, 469

sangat sukar gugur

- Kulai Tempatan buahnya ringan, 568 dan 469 lebih berat 1.5 kali

ganda kerana lebih besar dan lebih tebal

- Kulai Tempatan sangat amat pedas, 568 tak pedas, 469 pedas.

- Kulai Tempatan pemborong terima, 568 sangat diterima, 469 sukar

diterima (bergantung kepada tempat)

- Kulai Tempatan ada 60 biji pada bulan pertama, 568 80-120 biji,

469 80 biji. - Kulai Tempatan sangat mudah kena kerinting, 568

mudah, 469 sukar sikit, kalau kena pun kerinting peringkat pertama

sahaja.

- Kulai Tempatan langsung tak ada lalat buah kerana amat pedas,

568 dan 469 ada sedikit bergantung kepada tempat.

 

* Oleh kerana Kulai Tempatan sangat besar maka ia tak dapat

ditanam rapat-rapat maka hasil kurang, di samping itu air dan racun

harus banyak sebab pokok besar, pancang pun kena kuat.

 

* 469 amat sesuai bagi ‘penanam baru nak belajar’/'penanam amatur’

kerana ia amat mudah berbuah lebat dan besar (pada bulan pertama),

bagaimanapun buahnya amat sukar diterima pasaran (bergantung

kepada tempat) dan harganya juga lebih murah.

 

* 568 sederhana mudah untuk dijaga, pokok yang kecil tapi buah

yang lebat dan berat memungkinkan hasil yang tinggi di samping ia

amat mudah diterima pasaran walaupun tak pedas.

Kos operasi/kos bulanan/kos tidak tetap yang meliputi :

 

1)benih

2)peatmoss

3)baja AB

4)racun+baja foliar

5)bil air

6)bil elektrik

28

[ ] August 21, 2015

7)tali rafia

 

Anggaran kos tanaman cili dengan fertigasi keperluan asas

fertigasi bagi 1000pk cili

1.polytank 400 gallon =RM400.00

2.pam 0.75hp =RM250.00

3.main pipe poly 32mmx100m =RM120.00

4.poly tubing 13 mmx300m =RM120.00

5.dripper(putih)1000 =RM80.00

6.nipple 1000 =RM100.00

7.media cocopeat 70 bag =RM315.00

8.media sekam bakar 70 bag =RM175.00

9.polybag 15 x 15 x 40kg. =RM300.00

10.tong baja a/b x 2 =RM70.00

11.tubing 4 mm 9 roll x 80m =RM198.00

12.silver shine 0.035mm x 250m=RM70.00

13.fitting lump sum =RM200.00

14.timer digital 1 minit cutoff =RM60.00

15.tray semai anak benih 10kpg.=RM30.00

16.benih 10 gm. =RM30.00

17.baja a/b 1 set 50kg. =RM240.00

18.disk filter 1′ =RM55.00

JUMLAH DI ATAS SEMUA = + – RM2813.00

 

Kos luar jangka dan operation cost spt. racun, baja ulangan dll.

 

Musuh tanaman cili

-ulat ratus -kutu daun/afid -kutu trip -hama merah -hama kuning -

lelompat daun -pelombong daun -lalat putih -ulat pengorek buah -

lalat buah -ulat pangkas

Tips untuk mengawal serangan lalat buah:

lalat buah ni serang buah cili yang masak dan muda.

kerosakan boleh mencapai 60-80%

tanda kerosakan buah ialah buah menjadi berair lembik,busuk

dan gugur.

jika koyak =-larva (ulat) dalam buah yang berwarna kuning.

luar buah ada tanda bintik kena cucuk.

rupa lalat buah ni warna kuning belang hitam. sayap dia lut

sinar.

serangan boleh di kesan 3 minggu selepas putik keluar.

cara kawalan

-kutip semua buah yang kena serang dan masukkan dalam

plastik. -guna sebatian methyl eugenol untuk menarik dan

memerangkap lalat jantan. cara ini akan kurangkan kadar

pensenyawaan.

cara buat perangkap

-ambil botol air mineral dan potong buat tingkap (W 2 inci dan

H 1 inci).

29

[ ] August 21, 2015

-campur methyl eugenol dengan air kedalam botol tu dan

gantung di kawasan pokok cili. lalat buah akan masuk dalam

botol dan hisap cecair lalu mati. atau: -botol warna kuning

terang (attract serangga). -sembur dengan NEOPACE (gam)

pada permukaan botol kuning tu -gantung pada kawasan pokok

cili. -lalat buah akan melekat pada permukaan botol tu sebab

NEOPACE tu ada gam.

Jangka hayat pokok cili

-semai benih hingga mula tuai 2.5-3 bulan

-petik hasil maksimum 6 bulan.

-jangka hayat 8 bulan dari mula semai (max. yield)

-Jangka Hayat cili sehingga 12 bulan dimana bulan ke-4

memberikan hasil.

-Buahnya sederhana besar. Hasilnya mencapai sehingga 10kg

sehari bagi 100 pokok (purata)

-jangka hayat pokok berbuah utk 6 bulan = 30 kali tuai…

-anggaran sebiji cili 7 gram 5 bijiX7gram = 35 gram

ANTI SERANGGA

By عبدالرحمن on Tuesday, 24 September 2013 at 23:34 محمد

ANTI SERANGGA ….olahan Agropolitan Fertilizer Sub-dc Kulim

 

Saya menggunakan kaedah semburan daun petai belalang dan ubi

gadong pada daun pokok..tapi pokok anak sawit la..alhamdulillah

tiada binatang ataupun serangga yang usik daun pokok..

 

.dlm pemerhatian sy tidak ada apa apa kesan sampingan setakat hari

ini..dah 2 tahun lebih dah cuba kaedah ini..kosnya rajin ja..x

melibatkan RM..  

 

· penggunaannya hanya sebulan sekali semburan..untuk pokok yang

baru berbunga, elakkan menyembur pada bunga..nanti kumbang

pendebungaan tak singgah lak..langsung tidak berbuah..

 

cara buat semburan daun petai belalang

cara mudah ja..ambil daun petai belalang,blandersampai

hancur..ambil air pati ja utk campuran utk spray..pati daun boleh

dgunakan beberapa kali utk canpuran semburan..nisbah campuran

125ml(pati) = 16 liter air(tanpa klorin)

 

bebas dari kesan sampingan..fully organik..boleh juga dicampur

dengan baja foliar utk semburan...daun petai ini sifatnya hanyalah

pahit..daun yang kena semburanakan menjadi pahit,insyaAllah

serangga tak ganggu..pantangnya jgn guna air berklorin ja..guna air

sungai,telaga,parit,air hujan dll..

30

[ ] August 21, 2015

Common Name: Ladybirds, Ladybird Beetles,

Lady Beetles, Ladybugs [Of Florida]

Scientific Name: (Insecta: Coleoptera: Coccinellidae)

(a) Pest Species - Feeding on Plants

Adults and larvae of the subfamily Epilachninae feed on plants. In

Florida, this subfamily is represented only by Epilachna

borealis (Fabricius) and E. varivestis Mulsant. Epilachna borealis,

the squash beetle, feeds on members of the squash family

(Cucurbitaceae), and in Florida is restricted to the north, with a wide

distribution in other states of the eastern USA.Epilachna varivestis,

the Mexican bean beetle, feeds on members of the bean family

(Leguminosae), and rarely has been found south of northern Florida.

It is native to southern Mexico, but it is an immigrant to the USA,

first detected in the west in 1849, and in northern Florida in 1930.

Now, its distribution is from Costa Rica north through Mexico to the

Rocky Mountain states of the USA, and with a separated eastern

population (which extends southward to northern Florida). In Florida

it can be controlled efficiently by releases of the parasitoid

wasp Pediobius foveolatus (Crawford) (Eulophidae) (Nong and

Bennett 1994), which have to be made annually in the northeastern

USA (Stevens et al. 1975) because of the more severe climate. It was

discussed by Sanchez-Arroyo (2009).

(b) Innocuous Species - Feeding on Mildews

Ladybirds of the tribe Halyziini (of the subfamily Coccinellinae)

feed on fungal growths (mildews) on the leaves of plants. In Florida,

this tribe is represented only by the West Indian Psyllobora

nana Mulsant which has invaded the extreme south of Florida, and

by the widespread Psyllobora parvinotata Casey which also

occupies coastal areas as far west as Louisiana.

(c) Predatory Species - Feeding on Mites

Adults and larvae of the tribe Stethorini (of the subfamily

Scymninae) feed on tetranychid mites. In Florida, this tribe is

represented only by Stethorus utilis (Horn), a tiny ladybird which is

also distributed in the coastal plains of the southeastern states from

North Carolina through Texas.

(d) Predatory Species - Feeding on Whiteflies Four of Florida's

ladybirds appear to be more-or-less specialized predators of

whiteflies. They are Delphastus catalinae (Horn), D.

pallidus (LeConte), and D. pusillus (LeConte) (tribe Serangiini),

and Nephaspis oculatus(Blatchley) (Tribe Scymnini). The first seems

to be an immigrant species from the Neotropical region, with first

Florida record in 1974 (Hoelmer and Pickett 2003). Deliberate

attempts to introduce that species from California in 1916-1917 to

Manatee County, Florida, seem to have had no success (Frank and

31

[ ] August 21, 2015

McCoy 1993, Hoelmer and Pickett 2003). The next two (D.

pallidus and D. pusillus) are considered to be native. The fourth (N.

oculatus) may be an immigrant from Central America. After "D.

pusillus" was found to be a a very useful biological control agent

against sweetpotato whitefly (Bemisia tabaci (Gennadius) (Hoelmer

et al. 1993) including the "form" that later was named silverleaf

whitefly (Bemisia argentifolii Bellows and Perring), "it" was

exported to California and made available commercially and used in

other parts of the USA. Unfortunately, the ladybird beetle that was

called D. pusillus by Hoelmer et al. (1993) seems to have been a

mixture of D. catalinae andD. pusillus (Hoelmer and Pickett 2003).

Somehow this resulted in commercial biological control companies

selling D. catalinae under the name D. pusillus (Hoelmer and Pickett

2003).

(e) Predatory Species - Feeding on Cottonycushion Scale

Cottonycushion scale (Icerya purchasi Maskell), native to Australia,

belongs to the homopterous family Margarodidae (commonly called

"ground pearls", although this name hardly fits this species) in the

superfamily Coccoidea (scale insects). It is a major pest of citrus, and

an important pest of several other trees and shrubs

including Acacia, Casuarina, and Pittosporum. After its arrival in

California, presumably as a contaminant of imported plants, it

threatened to ruin California's citrus industry in the late 1800s. It was

controlled by importation, release, and establishment (as classical

biological control agents) of Rodolia cardinalis (Mulsant) and a

parasitoid fly, Cryptochetum iceryae (Williston). When

cottonycushion scale became a problem in Florida, the same two

biological control agents were imported from California into

Florida. R. cardinalis is a highly effective control agent for

cottonycushion scale.

(f) Predatory Species - Feeding on Mealybugs

Mealybugs are the homopterous family Pseudococcidae, which

includes some notable pests of plants. The most notable ladybird

predator of mealybugs in Florida is Cryptolaemus

montrouzieri Mulsant, a species native to Australia, introduced into

California first in 1891, and some time later from California into

Florida. It has been marketed commercially as a control agent for

mealybugs and is often effective, but has one unfortunate

characteristic: its larvae produce waxy filaments making them look

to the uninitiated like their mealybug prey. Many owners of plants

have sprayed the larvae with chemicals in the mistaken belief that

they are pests. This misidentification must be overcome by

education. Cryptolaemus montrouzieri does not confine its attentions

to mealybugs, and also eats soft scales (Coccidae) and armored

scales (Diaspididae). Such a catholic diet is normal for a long list of

Florida ladybirds, so that their diet cannot neatly be pigeonholed as

armored scales or soft scales or mealybugs -- they may eat some prey

in all of these families, and a few of the larger ones may even eat an

32

[ ] August 21, 2015

aphid from time to time. For that reason, many genera and species

are placed below under (h) - Feeding on Scale Insects.

 

(g) Predatory Species - Feeding on Armored Scale Insects

Eight species in four genera seem to feed largely or entirely on

armored scale insects (Diaspididae). They include Microweisea

coccidivora (Ashmead), M. misella (LeConte), andM.

ovalis (LeConte) of the tribe Microweiseini, Zilus horni Gordon, Z.

eleutherae Casey, Z. subtropicus (Casey) and perhaps Zagloba

bicolor (Casey) (its diet is a guess) of the tribe Scymnillini,

and Cryptognatha nodiceps Marshall of the tribe Cryptognathini.

One of these,Cryptognatha nodiceps, is not native, having been

imported in the 1930s, released, and established as a classical

biological control agent for coconut scale (Aspidiotus

destructorSignoret) (Frank and McCoy 1993).

(h) Predatory Species - Feeding on Scale Insects

Thirteen genera containing 66 species are placed here into this large

trophic group that has scale insects as its prey, meaning members of

the superfamily Coccoidea (the scale insects). This superfamily

includes various related families, notably Coccidae (soft scales),

Diaspididae (armored scales), Pseudococcidae (mealybugs),

Dactylopiidae (cochineal scales), Kermesidae (gall-like scales),

Eriococcidae (felt scales), Cerococcidae (ornate pit scales), and

Asterolecaniidae (pit scales). The ladybird genera are named below,

each followed by a number in parentheses, representing the number

of species known from

Florida: Decadomius (1), Diomus (9), Nephus (3), and Scymnus (16)

(all in tribe Scymnini),Brachiacantha (7), Hyperaspidius (5),

and Hyperaspis (16) (all in tribe

Hyperaspini), Axion(1), Chilocorus (3), Curinus (1),

and Exochomus (2) (all in tribe Chilocorini), Rhyzobius (1) (tribe

Coccidulini), and Azya (1) (tribe Azyini) (see Table 1). It is not yet

clear how, or whether, they divide up the scale insects between them,

because reliable prey records are too incomplete. However, there is

at least some level of prey specialization in these (and groups (e), (f),

and (g) above) that feed on scale insects, which seems not to be the

case for the next-discussed trophic group (those that feed on

aphids). Brachiacantha has a curious life history in that its larvae so

far as is known feed on scale insects within ant nests.

Rhyzobius lophanthae was introduced to California from Australia in

1892 to control scale insects, and somehow later made its way to

Florida (there is no record of an early introduction into

Florida). Chilocorus circumdatus (Schoenherr) [other writers give

the author name as Gyllenhal] was released in Florida in 1996, from

Australia (although it is native to southeastern Asia and is adventive

in Australia) against citrus snow scale, Unaspis citri, and is

established (H. W. Browning, personal communication, M. C.

Thomas, personal communication). Azya orbigera Mulsant was first

detected in Florida in 1975, and seems to be an immigrant from the

33

[ ] August 21, 2015

Neotropical region (Woodruff and Sailer 1977). Decadomius

bahamicus (Casey) was first detected in Florida in 1991, and is an

immigrant from the Caribbean or the Bahamas or Bermuda (Bennett

and Gordon 1991). Diomus roseicollisMulsant is another immigrant,

from Cuba (Gordon 1976). These and other insects that immigrated

to Florida are listed and discussed by Frank and McCoy (1992).

(i) Predatory Species - Feeding on Aphids

Adults and larvae of 12 of the remaining 13 Florida species (the tribe

Coccinellini) probably feed primarily on aphids. They

include Coccinella novemnotata Herbst,

C. septempunctataL., Coelophora inaequalis (F.), Coleomegilla

maculata DeGeer, Cycloneda munda (Say),Cycloneda

sanguinea (L.), Harmonia axyridis Pallas, Harmonia

dimidiata (Fabricius),Hippodamia convergens Guérin-

Méneville, Mulsantina picta (Randall), Naemia

seriata(Melsheimer), Neoharmonia venusta (Melsheimer). Although

the 13th species (Olla v-nigrumCasey) feeds on some aphid species,

it has been shown to be an important predator of psyllids (Michaud

2001).

Four of these, C. septempunctata (from Europe), C. inaequalis (from

Australia), H. dimidiata(from China), and H. axyridis (from Japan)

are not native. The first three were introduced into Florida (Frank

and McCoy 1993). The last was introduced by the USDA into

Georgia and made its own way to Florida. In some habitats it has

built large populations and its adults, in their search for

overwintering sites, sometimes are able to enter loosely constructed

houses; there they die of desiccation, or they are evicted or destroyed

by the householders who accuse them of being pests.

Two of these genera, Coleomegilla and Mulsantina, include adelgids

(Adelgidae), which are closely related to aphids, in their diet.

Further, Coleomegilla also includes pollen whereasMulsantina also

includes scale insects in the broad sense.

Alternative Food   (Back to Top)

Ladybird larvae and adults may supplement their normal prey in

times of scarcity with other types of food. They consume flower

nectar, water and honeydew -- the sugary excretion of piercing-

sucking insects such as aphids and whiteflies. Many plant species

also contain organelles in locations on the plant other than the flower

-- termed extrafloral nectaries -- that produce a nutrient-laden

secretion. While it was first thought that extrafloral nectaries were

used by the plant for excretion, it is well substantiated (Bentley 1977,

Pemberton and Lee 1996) that most plants actually use the

extrafloral nectaries to attract predators and parasites for protection

from their herbivores. Over 2000 species of plants in 64 families

have extrafloral nectaries. Plants commonly found in Florida

landscapes with extrafloral nectaries are the fruit trees, Prunus spp.

(most of the 431 species worldwide have them),

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[ ] August 21, 2015

passionflower, Passiflora spp.; Ipomoea spp.,

morningglory; Hibiscus spp., hibiscus;Gossypium hirsutum,

cotton; Impatiens sp., impatiens; and Vicia spp., vetch. Extrafloral

nectaries may be located on leaf laminae, petioles, rachids, bracts,

stipules, pedicels, fruit, etc. Ladybirds often use the secretions from

extrafloral nectaries in their diet (Pemberton and Vandenberg 1993)

and are just some of the many beneficial insects that use extrafloral

nectary secretions.

PLANT BOOSTER-Sedutan dari Hasri Hj Hassan

SeriFertigasi

By عبدالرحمن on Thursday, 25 July 2013 at 15:53 محمد

MARI KITA BELAJAR MEMBUAT PLANT BOOSTER

1. APLIKASI MIKROORGANISMA TEMPATAN

BERFAEDAH KEATAS TANAMAN.

 

            -           APAKAH MIKROORGANISMA.

Benda hidup yang sangat seni sehinggakan tidak kelihatan

dengan mata  kasar.

 

-           KUMPULAN MIKROORGANISMA.

•         Virus 

•         Bakteria  

•         Kulat  

•         Protozoa  

•         Algae 

 

-          APA ITU MIKROORGANISMA TEMPATAN

BERFAEDAH? 

Merupakan kumpulan mikroorganisma yang diperolehi secara

semulajadi di kawasan setempat atau berdekatan melalui proses-

proses tertentu yang memiliki kerjasama antara satu sama lain

bagi membantu organisma lain mendapat faedah hasil daripada

kerjasama tersebut .

 

-          CONTOH SUMBER PEMERAKAPAN

MIKROORGANISMA TEMPATAN BERFAEDAH(BIM). 

a.Susu dan air beras (Lactobacillus spp) 

b.Kawasan hutan (IMO ATAU BIM)  

c.Pokok buluh – IMO ATAU BIM 

d.Pokok Rhizibium- Bakteria pengikat nitrogen 

e.Pemeraman sayuran dan buah-buahan

f.PEMERAMAN SUSU BERSAMA SAYURAN DAN BUAH-

BUAHAN ( DOA-PLANT BOOSTER).

 

35

[ ] August 21, 2015

-          CONTOH KUMPULAN MIKROB SEMULAJADI

YANG BIASA TERDAPAT HASIL DARIPADA

PEMERANGKAPAN SECARA SEMULAJADI.

a.Lactobacillus spp Bacteria.

b.Yeast count.

c.photosynthetic bacteria.

d.Actinomycetes bacteria

 

a.Laktik asid bacteria.

•         Mempercepatkan penguraian bahan organik, selulosa dan

lignin

•         Menghalang serangan mikrooganisma berbahaya

– Fusarium sp

•         Merencatkan pertumbuhan patogen -  sebagai agen

sterilizer

•         Sebagai agen mineralization

 

b.Fotosintetik bacteria.

•         mengurai bahan organik, selulosa dan lignin

•         Menukarkan gas toksik  kepada gas tak berbau

•         Mengikat nitrogen diudara.

 

c.Yis.

•         Menghasilkan antibiotik, hormon, enzim dan probiotik

•         Menyediakan substrat untuk laktik asid bakteria dan

actinomycetes

 

-          APAKAH KEPENTINGANYA PADA TANAMAN????

SECARA UMUM

•         Untuk meningkatkan kualiti dan hasil tanaman yang sihat

•         Untuk meningkatkan ketahanan penyakit

•         Mempercepatkan proses pereputan dan penguraian-

Nutrien mineralization

•         Meningkatkan populasi mikroorganisma berguna yang

lain-simbiosis

•         Mengurangkan kadar kehilangan nutrien dan

meningkatkan kecekapan pengambilan nutrient.

 

-          APAKAH YANG MEMPENGARUHI KEAKTIFAN

MIKROB?

•         Suhu  - kurang aktif pd suhu rendah

      kebanyakan aktif pada suhu 35°C-40°C

•         pH      -  bergantung kepada jenis

•         Keamatan cahaya – membiak dengan aktif dalam

keadaan gelap

•         Kehadiran nutrien – semua mikrob memerlukan nutrien

kecuali virus.

 

36

[ ] August 21, 2015

2.APLIKASI DOA-ORGANIK PLANT BOOSTER KEATAS

TANAMAN.

-           IDEA TEKNOLOGI.

Hasil inovasi gabungan teknologi organik farming Korea,Jepun dan

India yang menggabungkan unsur tanaman buah-buahan dan sayur-

sayuran yang mempunyai nilai nutrien dan hormon semulajadi yang

tinggi bersama mikroorganisma berfaedah.

 

-                 BAHAN-BAHAN.

o   Susu tepung/segar                                   5kg/5L

o   Ragi                                                         5 ketul

o   Pisang                                                      5kg

o   Labu                                                         5kg

o   Betik                                                        5kg

o   Kangkong                                                 3kg

o   belacan@udang geragau                                    3kg

o   telur                                                         10biji

o   Gula merah                                             3kg

o   Air                                                            50liter

 

-                  KAEDAH PEMBUATAN.

o   Campurkan semua bahan tersebut kecuali labu dan ragi yang

paling akhir campuran.

o   Peram secara partially anaerobik selama seminggu.

o   Dianggap matang apabila terdapat miselium putih dipermukaan

larutan.

o   Tapis dan simpan di tempat yang gelap.

o   Ketahanan produk dianggar selama 6 bulan.

o   Perlu dilarutkan sebelum di gunakan.

 

-                 PROSES PEMERAMAN.

 

 

Terdapat miselium putih tumbuh pada permukaan tanah yang

di apply bokashi.

 

3.   APLIKASI  

•         Boleh digunakan terus pada tanaman – sukatan mengikut

jenis dan umur tanaman

•         Boleh digunakan dalam pembuatan kompos ataupun

bokashi.

 

3.1   CONTOH APLIKASI.

•         Sawi, bayam dan kailan

      5ml/LITER AIR(M1) – 10ml/L(M2) -15ml/L(M3)

•         Cili

5ml/LITER AIR(M1) – 10ml/L(M3) -15ml/L(M5) – 20ml/L(M7)-

penggunaan 20ml   kekal sehingga 2minggu seterusnya.

•         Melon (rock melon – glomour dan golden langkawi)

37

[ ] August 21, 2015

       5ml/LITER AIR(M1) – 15ml/L(M3) -20ml/L(M5) –

25ml/L(M7)

3.2 FORMULA KOMPOS.

•         5 bhg tinja ayam+ 1 bhg sekam padi@cocopeat terpakai –

sesuai untuk tanaman sayuran

•         5 bhg tinja ayam + 3 bhg tinja kambing + 1 sekam

padi@cocopeat terpakai – sesuai untuk tanaman sayur buah

•         5 bhg tinja kambing + 1 bhg tinja ayam + 1sekam padi @

cocopeat terpakai

•         Setiap bahan perlu campur  5% dedak.

o   KAEDAH PEMBUATAN KOMPOS

•         Kesemua bahan organan dicampur

•         Lembapkan dengan air bercampur 5ml/L air sehingga

kelembapan mencapai 40-50%

•         Diperam secara partially anaerobik selama 7 hari

•         Selepas itu gaul dan boleh guna terus pada pokok

mengikut kadar yang disyorkan .

 

 

 

-          KEBAIKAN PLANT BOOSTER

•         Mempercepatkan pertumbuhan pokok

•         Dapat meningkatkan 20-30% hasil tanaman

•         Dapat menjimatkan baja

•         Mempercepatkan tempoh masa pembunggaan

•         Memanjangkan tempoh hayat tanaman

•         Meningkatkan ketahanan penyakit

-          KELEMAHAN.

-          Pokok akan menunjukkan kesan kekurangan nutrien

yang ketara apabila tiada atau baja yang sedikit

 

 

 

 

LALAT BUAH

By Mmd Apis Ahmad on Tuesday, 3 September 2013 at 14:41

Nama biasa: Lalat Buah

 

Nama saintifik: Bactrocera carambolae.

 

 

Kitaran hidup lalat buah:

 

Telur : 1-2 hari

 

Larva: 8-10 hari

 

Kepompong : 10 hari.

 

38

[ ] August 21, 2015

Dewasa : 5-7 hari.

 

## Kepompong terbentuk di dalam tanah.

 

Aktif pada waktu pagi antara 8-10 am dan petang antara pukul 5-7

pm..

 

  Lalat buah menyerang dengan menyegat/menyuntik telur pada

buah. Kemudiaan larva yang menetas akan memakan tisu buah dari

dalam, antara tanda tanda serangan adalah buah kelihatan lebam,

lembik dan berair dan jika di amati pada fizikal luar buah akan

terdapat kesan seperti tusukan jarum pada bahagian luar buah. Jika

anda teliti pada bahagian dalam buah pula, akan terdapat ulat yang di

panggil larva. Lalat buah jika tidak di kawal boleh menyebabkan

lebih 50% hasil kebun anda akan musnah

 

  Antara punca yang menyebabkan lalat buah datang adalah

disebabkan oleh buah yang terkena antraknos. Jadi kawal lah kebun

supaya jangan terkena fungus antraknos. sembur racun kulat secara

rutin..

 

Berikut adalah antara Kaedah untuk Mengatasi lalat buah..

 

Kawalan Secara Kimia

  

  1. Lebaycid 550 (Bayer cropscience) dengan bahan aktif

fenthion (paling        mujarab)

  2. racun kimia dengan bahan aktif cypermethrin

  3. Prevathon + Imida untuk matikan ulat dalam buah

  4. Dimethoate + bawang putih ( Dimethoate dengan cara

kerja sistemik, akan               meresap pada daun dan buah, ulat yang

makan isi buah sebelum jadi pupa akan       mati sebab makanan

beracun, jadi populasi lalat berkurang. bawang putih                  

menghasilkan aroma yang tidak di sukai serangga

  5.racun DIMEXION >>baun nya tidak di sukai serangga..

 

Perangkap Lalat Buah

 

   Memasang perangkap lalat buah dengan menggunakan feromon

methyl euganol. Methyl euganol akan menghasilkan bau yang akan

menarik lalat jantan masuk ke dalam perangkap yang telah di isi air

atau racun, bila lalat jantan berkurangan maka kurang berlaku

persenyawaan dan populasi lalat buah akan berkurangan dengan

mendadak, perangkap ini haruslah sentiasa di selia (buang lalat yang

mati,dan titiskan pemikat yang baru jika bau feromon sudah mula

berkurang) dan pastikan perangkap di pasang pada bahagian luar/tepi

kebun bukan bahagian dalam kebun

 

  Selain itu perangkap lalat buah boleh di buat sendiri dengan cara

berikut :-

39

[ ] August 21, 2015

 

Kaedah ini ( A dan B ) dikatakan lebih efisyen kerana ia dapat

memerangkap lalat buah jantan dan betina >>

 

A. Perangkap lalat buah yang ekonomik. Apa yang kita perlukan

ialah:

200 ml air 50 gram gula perang

1 gram yis ( yis ibu roti, boleh dibeli di pasar raya )

dan 1 botol plastik 2-liter.

 

Bagaimana caranya:

1. Potong botol plastik (jenis PET) pada separuh. Simpan bahagian

leher

2. Campurkan gula perang dengan air panas. Biarkan sejuk. Apabila

sejuk, tuangkan       di separuh bahagian bawah botol.

3. Tambah yis. Tidak perlu untuk bergaul. Ia akan menghasilkan

karbon dioksida.           (betina dan jantan tertarik dengan karbon

dioksida)

4. Letakkan bahagian corong, terbalik, ke dalam separuh botol tadi.

5. letakkan di sekeliling/luar kebun anda pada ketinggian 2-3 meter..

6. ulang buat jika populasi lalat masih kelihatan..

 

B.  ....tips perangkap lalat buah dari ladang belimbing dan jambu

batu......air kencing lembu campur dgn perahan airlimau nipis atau

kasturi....

 

Selamat Mencuba

 

 

Nasihat daripada GM Peladang 

 

 1. Musnahkan punca vektor. Spt kita tebang pkok jenis palma

supaya white fly x dtg serang pokok tomato.

 

2. Jika memakai perangkap serangga, letak di luar kebun dan

selanggara dgn cara tanam ia tiap sehari/2 kali sehari. Jgn biar penuh

di dlm botol atau di pelekat.

 

3. Jika serangan teruk meracun lah secara selang seli hari

selama 5 hari dengann racun serangga. Kemudian kawal

seminggu sekali.

 

 

actinomycetes

By Mohamad Amiruddin Md Nor on Monday, 2 September 2013 at

17:12

These are the organisms with characteristics common to both

bacteria and fungi but yet possessing distinctive features to delimit

them into a distinct category. In the strict taxonomic sense,

actinomycetes are clubbed with bacteria the same class of

40

[ ] August 21, 2015

Schizomycetes and confined to the order Actinomycetales.

They are unicellular like bacteria, but produce a mycelium which is

non-septate (coenocytic) and more slender, tike true bacteria they do

not have distinct cell-wall and their cell wall is without chitin and

cellulose (commonly found in the cell wall of fungi). On culture

media unlike slimy distinct colonies of true bacteria which grow

quickly, actinomycetes colonies grow slowly, show powdery

consistency and stick firmly to agar surface. They produce hyphae

and conidia / sporangia like fungi. Certain actinomycetes whose

hyphae undergo segmentation resemble bacteria, both

morphologically and physiologically.

Actinomycetes are numerous and widely distributed in soil and are

next to bacteria in abundance. They are widely distributed in the soil,

compost etc. Plate count estimates give values ranging from 10^4 to

10^8 per gram of soil. They are sensitive to acidity / low PH

(optimum PH range 6.5 to 8.0) and waterlogged soil conditions. The

population of actinomycetes increases with depth of soil even up to

horizon ‘C’ of a soil profiler They are heterotrophic, aerobic and

mesophilic (25-30 ^c) organisms and some species are commonly

present in compost and manures are thermophilic growing at 55-65°

c temperature (eg. Thermoatinomycetes, Streptomyces).

Actinomycetes belonging to the order of Actinomycetales are

grouped under four families viz Mycobacteriaceae,

Actinomycetaceae, Streptomycetaceae and Actinoplanaceae. 

Actinomycetous genera which are agriculturally and industrially

important are present in only two families of Actinomycetaceae and

Strepotmycetaceae.

In the order of abundance in soils, the common genera of

actinomycetes are Streptomyces (nearly 70%), Nocardia and

Micromonospora although Actinomycetes, Actinoplanes,

Micromonospora and Streptosporangium are also generally

encountered.

Functions / Role of actinomycetes:

1. Degrade/decompose all sorts of organic substances like cellulose,

polysaccharides, protein fats, organic-acids etc.

2. Organic residues / substances added soil are first attacked by

bacteria and fungi and later by actinomycetes, because they are slow

in activity and growth than bacteria and fungi.

3. They decompose / degrade the more resistant and indecomposable

organic substance/matter and produce a number of dark black to

brown pigments which contribute to the dark colour of soil humus.

4. They are also responsible for subsequent further decomposition of

41

[ ] August 21, 2015

humus (resistant material) in soil.

5. They are responsible for earthy / musty odor / smell of freshly

ploughed soils.

6. Many genera species and strains (eg. Streptomyces if

actinomycetes produce/synthesize number of antibiotics like

Streptomycin, Terramycin, Aureomycin etc.

7. One of the species of actinomycetes Streptomyces scabies causes

disease "Potato scab" in potato. 

_______________________________________________________

PANDUAN MENANAM TERUNG 

PENANAMAN Di Ladang

 Bajak dan gemburkan tanah sedalam 15 hingga 22 cm (6-9 in).

Sediakan batas berukuran 1.2 m ( 48 in) lebar dan 22-30 cm (9-12 in)

tinggi. Panjang batas mengikut keadaan kawasan. Jarak antara batas

ialah 45 cm (18 in). Gaulkan tahiayam reput ke dalam tanah

sebanyak 50 kg bagi 50 meter persegi ( 500 kaki persegi).

Dalam Pasu atau BekasGunakan tanah campuran mengandungi 3

bahagian tanah, 1 bahagian tahi ayam reput atau kompos dan 1

bahagianpasir. Isikan tanah campuran tersebut ke dalam pasu

sehingga 5 cm (2 in) dari permukaan pasu.

 

MENYEDIA ANAK BENIHBagi tanaman di ladang, sediakan

kotak semaian berukuran 45 cm ( 18 in) panjang, 22 cm (9 in) lebar

dan 10 cm (4 in) tinggi. Isikan kotak semaian dengan tanah

campuran yang mengandungi 3 bahagian tanah, 1 bahagian tahi

ayam reput atau compos dan 1 bahagian pasir. Semai 3 g biji benih

kedalam kotak semaian secara barisan dan tutup benih dengan

lapisan nipis tanah. Jarak antara barisan biji benih ialah 5 cm (2 in)

dan 2 cm (1 in) antara benih. Siram denganpenyiram yang

mempunyai semburan halus dua kali sehari. Kotak semaian mesti

dilindungi cahaya matahari dan air hujan yang berlebihan. Ubah

anak benih ke ladang 3 hingga 4 minggu selepas disemai. Sebelum

diubah ke ladang,dedah anak benih kepada cahaya matahari yang

penuh selama 3 hingga 4 hari untuk mengeraskannya. 

 

MENANAM 

Di LadangAnak benih yang berumur 3 hingga 4 minggu boleh di

ubah terus ke batas. Sebelum mencabut, basahkan kotak semaian

supaya anak benih senang di gali. Kemudian, gali anak benih dengan

segumpal tanah dan tanam terus kebatas. Jarak tanaman ialah 90 cm

(36 in) antara pokok dan 60 cm antara baris.Dalam Pasu atau Bekas

 Tanam terus 3 atau 4 biji benih ke dalam pasu sedalam 2-5 cm ( 1

in). Tinggalkan sepokok sepasu 2 minggu selepas menanam. 

 

42

[ ] August 21, 2015

PENJAGAANMenyiramSiram tanaman pada awal pagi dan lewat

petang setiap hari kecuali hari hujan. 

Membaja 

Di LadangTabur baja NPK 12:12:17:2 di keliling pokok dengan

kadar 1 sudu besar atau 10 g sepokok setiap dua minggu. 

Dalam Pasu atau BekasTabur 1 sudu teh atu 5 g baja NPK

12:12:17:2 sepasu di keliling pokok setiap minggu. 

 

Sungkupan 

Di LadangGunakan kepingan plastik atau rumput-rumput kering

atau pelepah kelapa sebagai sungkupan.

Dalam Pasu atau BekasGunakan rumput-rumput kerung atau sabut

kelapa.

 

MerumputBersihkan batas-batas daripada rumput rumpai dengan

menggunakan tangan, cangkul atau tajak.

 

Menyedia Sokongan

Di LadangSatu kayu sokongan sepanjang lebih kurang 1 ½ meter ( 5

kaki) dipacak berdekatan tiap-tiap pokok. Dahan-dahan pokok diikat

dengan tali rafia supaya buah terung tidak terkena permukaan tanah.

 

Dalam Pasu atau Bekas

Cara sokongan yang di amalkan adalah sama dengan sokongan yang

dibuat di ladang tetapi kayu yang digunakan berukuran 1.2 m ( 4

kaki ) panjang.

 

KAWALAN SERANGGA DAN PENYAKIT

Sembur racum serangga carbaryl (Sevin pada kadar 1 sudu besar

atau 10 g segelen air ) untuk mengawal ulat lipas daun, kumbang

daun dan pengorek buah.Gunakan racun kulat maneb ( seperti

Megamaneb pada kadar 1 sudu besar atau 10 g segelen air) untuk

mengawal penyakit reput buah dan racun kulat benomyl ( seperti

Benlate pada kadar 1 sudu teh atau 3 g segelen air) untuk mengawal

bintik daun.

 

MEMUNGUT HASILDi LadangMulalah memetik buah 6 minggu

selepas mengubah. Pungutan hasil dibuat setiap 4 hari. Anggaran

hasil ialah sebanyak 75 – 125 kg bagi 50 meter persegi. Denagn

harga purata 60 sen sekilo, pendapatan kasar adalah RM 45 –RM 75

.Dalam Pasu atau BekasMulalah memetik buah 10 minggu selepas

menanam. Anggaran hasil adalah 1 kg/pokok.

Kos Pengeluaran Timun Konvensional- oleh Nurwahidah

Hambali

By Nurwahidah Hambali on Thursday, 25 July 2013 at 08:38

43

[ ] August 21, 2015

KOS PENGELUARAN BAGI TANAMAN

TIMUN BAGI MUSIM 1 VARIETI : DOUBLE

BONUS 1199 LUAS 0.4 HA TAHUN 2010

 

BIL    PERKARA     KUANTITI        HARGA/ JUMLAH       UNIT

1. Benih 5                    37.00      185.00

2. Tali rambut               15                    6.00        90.00

3. Tali hijau                  30                    6.30       189.00

4. Furadan                   2                   22.00         44.00

5. Racun siput               3                     3.00           9.00

6. Baja(i) En Cal            1                    95.00         95.00(ii)

16:16:16              2.5                   110.00       275.00(iii)

13:10:21:TE        4.5                   120.00      540.00

7. Racun Seranggai.  Armada 680 0.08                                  

54.40ii. Cypermetrin 1080 0.02                                    

21.60iii. Mospilan 70 0.06                                            4.20

8. Racun kulati. Dithane 45 1030 0.03                                  

26.78ii. Daconil 820 0.02                                  19.68

9. Biogreen 9400 0.03                                             282.00

10. Racun rumputi. Basta 15                        1                156.00     

156.00

11. Kapur GML                      40                  10.00      400.00

12. Baja Organiki. Tahi ayam                    1                  300.00      

300.00

13. Upah pekerja                                                      3620.00

14. Gaji pengurus                                                     1150.00

15. Susut nilai                                                            100.00

16. Petrol                                                                   219.20

17. Diesel                                                                   129.00

18. Suratkhabar                100                     0.50      50.00

19. Penyelenggaraan mesin                                           30.00

20. Sewa                                                                   100.00                

 

TOTAL                                                                 RM  8,089.86

Kos Pengeluaran, Pendapatan kasar dan bersih

Tanaman Timun

By Norhisam Ramlan on Tuesday, 23 July 2013 at 10:00

Update Timun 747 100% Kawalan SRI ORGANIK- MUSIM 1

 

Bilangan Pokok : 3200 pokok

 Tanam : 29hb April 2013

Tuai : 2hb June 2013

Habis : 10hb Julai 2013

Jumlah hari menuai : 38 hari

44

[ ] August 21, 2015

 

PENDAPATAN

 

Jumlah kutipan hasil :25 MT ( Gred A - RM 1.00 )

2 MT ( Gred B - RM 0.20 )

 Jumlah Pendapatan Kasar : RM 25,400.00

 

PERBELANJAAN

 

Benih 2 tin @ RM 175.00 = RM350

Plastik silvershine : 15 gulung @ RM 65.00 = RM 975

Tali : 15 gulung @ RM 10.00 = RM 150.00

Tali jurai : 25 ikat @ RM 6.00 = RM 150.00

Baja Yara Liva 1 beg @ RM 85.00 = RM 85.00

Baja Yara 16 : 16 : 16 2 beg @ RM 130.00 = RM 260.00

Baja Yara 13: 11: 21 3 beg @ RM 130.00 = RM 390.00

SRI ANAK : 6 liter @ RM 20.00 = RM 120.00 (harga buat sendiri)

SRI BUNGA : 4.8 liter @ RM 20.00 = RM96.00

SRI BUAH : 5.6 liter @ RM 20.00 = RM112.00

Mol Ikan : 10 liter @ RM15.00 = RM150.00

Mol Kangkong : 4.8 liter @ RM 10.00 = RM 48.00

Mol Pisang : 5.6 liter @ RM 10.00 = RM 56.00

OHN : 3 liter @ RM 25.00 = RM 75.00

IMO 2 : 2 set @ RM 50.00 = RM 100

Dedak 2 beg @ RM 35.00 = RM 70.00

 

Petrol = RM 200

Diesel = RM 600

Jumlah Kos Bahan : RM 3987.00

Jumlah kos pekerja : 2 orang @ RM 1000 @ 3 bulan = RM

6000.00

Jumlah besar : RM 9987.00 

Pendapatan Bersih : RM25,400 - RM 9987.00 = RM 15,413.00

ORGANIC FURADAN DARI BUAH JERING -

sedutan dari Wizan Zaini

By عبدالرحمن on Saturday, 20 July 2013 at 05:33 محمد

 Tiga bahan utama, iaitu buah jering, belerang, dan pasir.Cara

pembuatannya mudah:ambil 10 biji buah jering (diambil isi jering)

dikisar, diparut atau ditumbuk halusmasukkan jering yang telah

dikisar, diparut atau ditumbuk halus ke dalam bekas/

besen tambahkan 4 camca/ sudu teh belerang/sulfurtambahkan 6

cawan pasir halusgaulkan bahan tersebut hingga sebatitutup

bekas/besen dengan pembalut plastik/ wrapper dan simpan di tempat

kering selama 1 minggufuradan organik boleh digunakan dengan

mencampurkan dengan tanah untuk tujuan pemasuan, semaian biji

benih atau tabur rata di keliling tanaman anda. 

45

[ ] August 21, 2015

 

Kawalan Tikus Dari Jering

Cara yang biasa dibuat petani di Selangor sebelum musim baru

bermula adalah dengan mengumpan tikus dengan padi yang

digaulkan racun tikus. Cara ini agak berkesan kerana tikus agak

terkawal walau pun akhir-akhir ini ada kedengaran kerosakan

disebabkan oleh tikus berlaku disana-sini. Tapi bagaimana kalau

saya katakan kita boleh jauhkan tikus dari sawah kita dengan

menggunakan jering?.

Pak Tam pernah memberikan cara membuat pencegah tikus

menggunakan jering dalam salah satu kursus yang dikendalinya.

Rupa-rupanya saudara Mohd Nor Saarani terus mencuba

disawahnya. Dengar apa kata saudara Mohd Nor semasa kami

melawat sawahnya tempoh hari. Sawah disebelahnya jelas nampak

diganggu tikus, tetapi tidak disawahnya.

Cara membuat air jering untuk mencegah tikus

Bahan:1 kg jering yang matang (semai hingga berakar)2 liter air

Cara:1. Hiriskan jering dan masukkan ke dalam bekas plastik.2.

Masukkan 2 liter air dan rendam jering tadi selama 2 hari.3. Tapis

dan ambil air rendaman jering tadi. (Nota: bau air jering sangat

busuk)4. Untuk disembur ke sempadan sawah, ambil satu liter air

jering untuk satu tong penyembur. Sembur dibatas sekeliling sawah

seolah membuat pagar jering. Cebisan jering bolehlah ditaburkan ke

dalam sawah jika mahu, atau tabur dikeliling rumah.

Cubalah di sawah anda atau kebun anda. Jika berjaya menangani

masalah tikus, tolong beritahu Mak Tam. Boleh kita panjangkan

untuk pengetahuan rakan tani yang lain.

Ladybugs | Kumbang Pemangsa (Coccinellidae

family)

By Wizan Zaini on Wednesday, 17 July 2013 at 23:14

Jom Bela Kumbang dalam Kebun!

 

Apa yang ladybugs makan? Biasanya deme makan serangga kecil

yang lain.. biasanya serangga yang kita tak suka (perosak)!

Contohnya aphids! Sebenarnya, larva si kumbang ni pun makan

aphids jugak. Kalau nak ladybugs hidup di kebun kita, jangan la

banyak meracun (kimia). 

 

Selain itu, kumbang ini juga makan serangga lain yang berkulit

lembut seperti kutu (mites) dan termasuklah lalat putih (whiteflies).

 

Ada juga jenis ladybugs yang makan

daun, TETAPI kebanyakkannya makan serangga (Coccinellidae

family)!

 

46

[ ] August 21, 2015

Macam mana nak panggil ladybugs datang kebun kita? Tanam bunga

dalam kebun.. buat pagar atau letak di celah-celah pokok di kebun.

Biasanya kalau ada bunga adalah kumbangnya. Sayang.. ekosistem

kita sudah rosak!

 

Antara pokok yang menarik ladybugs datang ialah:

1. Ketumbar - Coriander (Coriandrum sativum).

2. Kucai - Garlic Chives (Allium tuberosum) - Aphids tak suka

kucai! 

3. Fennel ( Foeniculum vulgare

4. Butterfly Weed (Asclepias Tuberosa)

5. Golden Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria)

6. Prairie sunflower (Helianthus maximilianii)

7. Rocky Mountain Penstemon

8. Yarrow (Achillia sp.)

Secrets to Hydroponic/fertigation Nutrients.

By Mmd Apis Ahmad on Sunday, 16 June 2013 at 12:43

Secrets to Hydroponic Nutrients.

 

In the time plants have evolved on Earth, they have adapted to utilise

five major resources in order to grow. These are

Light, Water, Oxygen, Carbon Dioxide, and mineral elements. From

these, plants can synthesise a wide range of

organic molecules required for life. Of these five factors, it is the

mineral element requirements of plants which we aim

to provide through the use of hydroponic or soilless culture, and

under optimum conditions of light and temperature the

productivity of crops is largely dictated by the mineral composition

in the root zone.

As hydroponic growers and suppliers, it is therefore worth taking a

look at what elements are actually required for

plant growth, what their purpose is inside the plant, and what levels

and ratios are most appropriate for optimising

plant growth in a range of conditions.

Hydroponic Elements - Why we need them ...

 

The elements required for plant growth include the following.

Nitrogen

 

47

[ ] August 21, 2015

Nitrogen is a component of all amino acids in proteins and enzymes

used in plant tissue, as well as flavour

compounds and lignin, and as a result the entire plant metabolism

depends on nitrogen supply.

Example of Amino Acid containing NITROGEN :HOOC-(CH)n-

NH2

Without nitrogen, plant growth ceases, and deficiency symptoms

rapidly appear. Most obvious deficiency symptoms

are yellowing or purple colouration of the older leaves, thin stems,

and low vegetative vigour. Nitrogen is readily

mobilised within the plant, so deficiencies first appear as symptoms

on the older foliage. Excess nitrogen, or specifi-cally

a high nitrogen to carbon ratio within the plant, predisposes the plant

to lush soft growth, usually undesirable for

commercial crops and can retard fruitset, promote flower abscission,

and induce calcium deficiency disorders as fruit

develop.

Nitrogen is supplied as nitrate in the hydroponic nutrient solution,

usually from sources calcium nitrate, and potassium

nitrate (Saltpetre). Occasionally, for example under low light

conditions, a small amount of nitrogen is supplied in the

ammonium form from compounds such as ammonium nitrate or

ammonium phosphate, but this should be limited to

less than 10% of the total nitrogen content of the nutrient solution to

maintain balanced vegetative growth and avoid

physiological disorders relating to ammonia toxicity. Urea should

never be used in hydroponics.

Potassium

 

Potassium is a key activator of many enzymes, especially those

involved with carbohydrate metabolism. Potassium is

also responsible for the control of ion movement through membranes

and water status of stomatal apertures.

Potassium therefore has a role in controlling plant transpiration and

turgor. It is generally associated with plant 'quality'

and is necessary for successful initiation of flower buds and fruit set.

As a result the levels of potassium in nutrient

solutions are increased as plants enter a 'reproductive' phase, and as

crops grow into lower light levels, in order to

maintain nutrient balance in solution. Symptoms of potassium

deficiency are typically, scorched spots towards the

margins of older leaves, along with generally low vigour and

susceptibility to fungal disease. Crops such as tomatoes

can almost double their uptake of potassium during fruiting. An ideal

source of potassium for hydroponics is

monopotassium phosphate, along with potassium nitrate. Potassium

sulphate can be used as an additive to boost

potassium levels without affecting nitrogen or phosphorous.

Potassium chloride should be used sparingly if at all, to

avoid excessive chloride levels in solution.

48

[ ] August 21, 2015

Phosphorous

 

The energy utilisation process within plants relies on bonds between

phosphate molecules - energy is stored and

released by the compound adenosine triphosphate (ATP).

ATP ---------> ADP + Pi + energy

Phosphorous is an integral part of the sugar-phosphate molecules

used in respiration and photosynthesis, and is a

major component of all cell membranes formed using phospholipids.

NUTRON2000 TM is a registered Trademark of Casper Publications

Pty Ltd and Suntec (NZ) Ltd.

 

The phospholipid Lechitin, a component of every living cell.

CH3-(CH2)16-COO-CH2

|

CH3-(CH2)7-CH=CH-(CH2)7-COO-CH2

|

CH2-OPO3-CH2N(CH3)3

Phosphorus is involved in the bonding structure of nucleic acids

DNA and RNA. Deficiency of phosphate appears as a

dull green colouration of the older leaves followed by purple and

brown colours as the foliage dies. Root development

becomes restricted as phosphorous deficiency occurs, due to sugar

production and translocation being impeded. The

main source of phosphate in hydroponics is monopotassium

phosphate, although limited amounts of ammonium

phosphate can sometimes be added. Compounds such as calcium

superphosphate should be avoided. Small amounts

of phosphorous are also supplied by the use of phosphoric acid for

pH control.

Magnesium

 

Magnesium is the central ion of the chlorophyll molecule, and

therefore has a primary role in the light collecting

mechanism of the plant and the production of plant sugars through

photosynthesis. Magnesium is also a co-factor in

the energy utilisation process of respiration in the plant.

Magnesium deficiency first appears as yellowing of the leaves

between veins on the older parts of the plant, although

under worse deficiency the symptoms can spread towards the newer

growth. Magnesium deficiency can also occur

during periods of low light intensity or heavy crop loading and when

excessive levels of potassium are provided in the

nutrient solution. The main, probably universal source of magnesium

for hydroponics is magnesium sulphate (Epsom

salts). Although limited use is sometimes made of magnesium nitrate

it is rarely an economical option. Soil fertiliser

salts magnesium phosphate or magnesium ammonium phosphate are

not suitable.

49

[ ] August 21, 2015

Calcium

 

Calcium is deposited in plant cell walls during their formation. It is

also required for the stability and functioning of cell

membranes. Calcium deficiency is common in hydroponic crops, and

is apparent as tipburn in lettuce, and blossom

end rot in tomatoes. Calcium is almost totally immobile in the plant,

as once deposited in cell walls it can not be

moved. Therefore the deficiency occurs in the newest growth.

Calcium transport is dependent on active transpiration,

and so calcium deficiency occurs most often under conditions where

transpiration is restricted, ie warm overcast or

humid conditions are often referred to as "calcium stress" periods.

Increasing calcium content in solution is unlikely to

improve uptake, and in fact, reducing CF is one way to improve

calcium uptake in most species by enhancing the

uptake of water. Calcium is supplied by default in most formulations

through the use of Calcium nitrate. Extra calcium

can be provided by calcium chloride.

Sulfur

 

Sulfur is used mainly in sulfur-containing proteins using the amino

acids cysteine and methionine. The vitamins

thiamine and biotin, as well as the cofactor Coenzyme A, all use

sulfur, and so this element also plays a key role in

plant metabolism. Sulfur deficiency in hydroponics is rare, usually

because sulfur is present in adequate quantities

through the use of sulfate salts of the other major elements

particularly magnesium and potassium, and plant require-ments

for the element are reasonably flexible within quite a wide range.

Where it occurs, sulfur deficiency shows up as

a general yellowing of the entire foliage, especially on the new

growth.

Iron

 

Iron is a component of proteins contained in plant chloroplasts, as

well as electron transfer proteins in the photosyn-thetic

and respiration chains. Deficiency occurs on the newest leaves, and

appears first as a yellowing of the leaves

between veins, and eventually the whole leaf becomes pale yellow,

even white, ultimately with necrotic (dead) spots

and distorted leaf margins. Iron must be supplied as chelated Iron

EDTA, EDDHA or EPTA in hydroponics, rather than

sulphate. Iron is the element most susceptible to precipitation at high

(>7) pH, so pH control to below pH6.5 is

necessary to maintain Iron in solution in hydroponics.

Manganese

 

Manganese catalyses the splitting of water molecules in

photosynthesis, with the release of oxygen. It is a co-factor in

50

[ ] August 21, 2015

the formation of chlorophyll and the respiration and photosynthetic

systems. Manganese deficiency appears as a dull

grey appearance followed by yellowing of the newest leaves between

the veins which usually remain green. Spots of

dead tissue become apparent on affected leaves. Manganese is

supplied by manganese sulfate, or manganese EDTA

in hydroponics. The content of manganese in these fertilisers can

vary widely between different sources, due to such

factors as different 'water of crystallisation' (MnSO4.nH2O), and

different chelating agents and raw ingredients as well

as manufacturing processes. Manganese, like iron, is less available to

plants at high pH.

Zinc

 

Zinc contributes to the formation of chlorophyll, and the production

of the plant hormone auxin. It is an integral part of

many plant enzymes. Zinc deficiency appears as distortion and

interveinal chlorosis of older leaves of the crop, and

retarded stem development. Zinc is provided by zinc sulfate, or zinc

EDTA in hydroponics.

Boron

 

Boron is required mostly for cell division in plants, and deficiencies

appear similar to calcium deficiencies, with stem

cracking and death of the shoot apex being the most significant

symptoms. Boron is supplied as either borax (sodium

borate) or boric acid in hydroponic production.

Copper

 

Copper is required in small amounts as a component in several

important enzymes . Toxicity is more common than

deficiency of copper in hydroponics. Copper sulfate is most often

used, although copper EDTA can also be used in

nutrient solutions.

Silica

 

Recently silicates have been reported to improve the growth and

development of some crops. When readily available,

silica is incorporated into the root system, and appears to enhance

nutrient uptake, improving the potential of crops to

produce higher yields. Silicates have also been implicated in

enhancing pollination, as well as providing increased

structural strength of stems and some resistance to foliar diseases.

It should be noted, that among the 110 or so known elements, many

more are likely to be implicated in plant growth.

Nickel, cobalt, chromium, titanium, iodine, selenium, lithium and

numerous others have been reported to have some

function in some species of plants.

Hydroponic Nutrient Basics

51

[ ] August 21, 2015

 

There are several important factors to decide when purchasing salts

for hydroponic nutrient formulae:

1. The salt must be completely soluble in water, that is the salt must

not contain additives or insoluble fillers, or

components (such as insoluble sulphates and phosphates) which

while useful for soil fertiliser are unacceptable in

hydroponics.

2. Contents of sodium, chloride, ammonium and organic nitrogen, or

elements not required for plant growth should be

minimised under normal use. These elements if not used by plants

tend to accumulate in recirculating hydroponic

nutrients to the extent that the measured CF includes a high

proportion of unusable salts.

3. The salt must not react with other components in the same mix to

produce insoluble salts, and it should not radically

alter the pH of the nutrient solution.

4. For commercial use, the fertiliser source must be economical.

There is no point using expensive fertiliser salts when

a cheaper source is perfectly adequate.

What Salts to Use

 

Macro Elements

 

Nitrogen

Recommended sources

 

Calcium Nitrate (15.5% N): Commercial calcium nitrate also forms

1% Ammonium-N in solution, and supplies 20%

Calcium

Potassium Nitrate (13% N): Also supplies 36.5% Potassium

Ammonium Nitrate (33% N): Nitrogen form is split between

ammonium-N and Nitrate-N, the total ammonium-N % of a

formula should be kept below 15% in most conditions.

Other sources:

 

Ammonium Phosphate (10%N): Supplies N and is soluble, but all N

is in the ammonium form, which limits its appli-cation

in hydroponics.

Ammonium Sulfate (21%N): As above, redundant if using

conventional salts. Urea (46%N): Can cause problems with

ammonia toxicity, and has no CF charge so difficult to measure.

Nitric Acid: Used often for pH control, but should not be considered

a nitrogen source, especially not mixed with salts

in stock solutions.

Phosphorus

Recommended Sources

 

MonoPotassium Phosphate (21% P): Also provides 25% Potassium.

Other sources:

52

[ ] August 21, 2015

 

Ammonium Phosphate (22% P): Not used as the main phosphate

source as too much ammonium would be produced.

Phosphoric Acid: As for Nitric acid above. Older formulations used

it as a P source in 'Topping-up" mixtures but this

approach is no longer valid.

Calcium Superphosphate (10% P): Phosphate is highly soluble (as

phosphoric acid), but produces an insoluble

calcium sulfate / calcium phosphate residue in hydroponics.

Potassium

Recommended Sources

 

Potassium Nitrate (37% K)

MonoPotassium Phosphate (25% K)

Potassium Sulfate (40% K): Also adds sulfur (17%). Useful as an

additive to existing formulae to boost potassium

levels.

Other sources:

 

Potassium Chloride (49% K): Can be added in small amounts,

although preferably omitted due to its chloride content.

Magnesium

Recommended sources

 

Magnesium Sulfate (10% Mg): Also adds sulfur. Is highly soluble

and universal Mg source

Other sources:

 

Magnesium Nitrate Expensive, and unnecessary

Dolomite (Magnesium carbonate) Insoluble residues

Fertiliser sources of magnesium used in agriculture (Dolomite,

Causmag etc) are generally very insoluble, and can not

be used for hydroponics.

Calcium

Recommended sources

 

Calcium Nitrate (20% Ca): Calcium is supplied almost entirely by

this salt in most nutrient formulations

Calcium Chloride (36% Ca): Useful to add extra calcium without

altering other elements. Limited use due to its

chloride content, so only used as an 'additive'

Other sources:

 

Calcium chelates: Expensive and unnecessary

Calcium Ammonium Nitrate: Not recommended due to ammonia

content

Calcium cyanamide: Release amine - N into solution which produces

free ammonia.

Calcium carbonate: Insoluble, and inherent pH problems

53

[ ] August 21, 2015

Calcium Sulfate: Highly insoluble.

Sulfur

Recommended sources

 

Magnesium sulfate (13% S): Potassium sulfate (18% S)

Other sources:

 

Ammonium sulfate

Sulfuric acid

Trace Elements

 

Iron

Recommended sources

 

Iron EDTA (6 - 14% Fe): Readily soluble, and stable form of Iron

for nutrient solutions. Ensure the element (Fe)

content of the chelate is known before making formulations.

Iron EPTA: Using different chelating agents the iron can be

protected in solution at higher pH levels.

Iron EDDHA " " "

Other sources:

 

Iron Sulfate (20% Fe): No longer widely used in hydroponics due to

its instability in solution. In nutrient solutions iron

sulfate tends to form iron hydroxides which are insoluble.

Iron Chloride: As above

Manganese

Recommended sources

 

Manganese Sulfate (24%): Different sources may vary in Mn% due

to being hydrated or anhydrous. In solution with

Iron EDTA, the manganese becomes partly chelated.

Manganese Chelate (*%): As for Fe EDTA * the content of Mn can

vary between sources.

Boron

Recommended sources

 

Boric Acid (18% B), Sodium borate (Borax) 11 - 14% B

Zinc

Recommended sources

 

Zinc Sulfate (23% Zn), Zinc EDTA (*%)

Copper

Recommended sources

 

Copper Sulfate (25% Cu), Copper EDTA (*%)

Molybdenum

Recommended sources

 

Ammonium molybdate (48% Mo), Sodium Molybdate (39% Mo)

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[ ] August 21, 2015

Ratios and Content of Elements in Nutrient Solutions

 

Once we have the source of elements (fertiliser salts) for a nutrient

formula, the next stage is to combine these into

ratios which give the acceptable element contents in solution. Plants

will take up nutrient elements roughly according

to their needs, this is especially true for the major elements, so

adding elements to solution when they are not required

results in the formula becoming unbalanced for plant growth. Adding

excessive quantities of some of the trace

elements can in fact lead to toxicities, while adding insufficient

amounts of any element will eventually lead to

deficiency and poor crop growth. As hydroponic growers it is

essential to have an understanding of acceptable ratios

for all the elements used in hydroponic formulations to ensure the

nutrient solution is supplying the plant's needs and

is neither toxic or deficient. Generally the range of acceptable

element concentrations is wider for the major nutrients,

than for the trace elements as can be seen from the table below.

Element Range in PPM for Nutrient Solution

 

N 100 - 450

P 10 - 100

K 100 - 650

Mg 10 - 95

Ca 70 - 300

S 20 - 250

Fe 0.5 - 6

Mn 0.3 - 4

B 0.1 - 0.8

Zn 0.1 - 0.5

Cu 0.05 - 0.1

Mo 0.02 - 0.07

Even within these ranges, nutrient elements can become very

unbalanced if the ratios are incorrect. Leaf analysis of

crops is a good indicator for acceptable ratios for a formulation

within the above range. The ratios for a hydroponic

nutrient for any new crop can be estimated from leaf analysis of a

well grown plant, as if a plant appears to be thriving

and producing well, then we can assume its nutrient mineral content

is optimum, hence tissue analysis will give the

nutrient ratios optimum for the root zone solution. This basic formula

can then be fine tuned during different crop

growth stages and seasons. Some indications for acceptable ratios of

major nutrient elements are given below.

Element Ratio Ratio

 

N: P 3 - 8

N:K 0.25 - 1.5

Ca:N 0.8 - 1.2

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[ ] August 21, 2015

Mg:N 0.1 - 0.4

P:S 0.6 - 1

CF and EC PPM.

 

'CF' or 'EC' is a commonly used measure to determine the strength of

a hydroponic nutrient solution. As salts disso-ciate

into ions in solution, they carry a positive or negative charge (eg

KNO3 --> K+ + NO3-,) which can transmit

electricity. Pure water will not transmit electricity, but as soon as

salts are added, the ability of the solution to conduct

electricity increases. This conductance increases with increasing

solution strength. CF (Conductivity Factor) and EC

(Electrical Conductivity) are a measure of this characteristic of

nutrient salt solutions.

While CF seems to be a very convenient measure, there are problems

associated with relying only on CF to control

hydroponic nutrient formulae.

I) The CF will be roughly the same regardless of the element content

of the solution. A nutrient solution with CF 20 can

not be distinguished from a sodium chloride solution with CF 20.

ii) Different nutrient salts show different capacities to conduct

electricity when in solution, so that depending on the nutrient

ratios and the individual salts used, the CF may give a very different

indication of the true ionic strength of the solution. A

solution of potassium nitrate at CF20 will be approximately half the

strength (in ppm) of a solution of magnesium sulfate at

CF20. This is because potassium nitrate conducts nearly twice as

much electricity at the same ionic strength.

 

iii) Even if the nutrient element content of the formula was known

accurately at the start, once the solution has been

recirculating through a growing crop for a few weeks, the element

content changes - the CF may well stay the same.

Conductivity of Some Common Hydroponic Nutrients at 2000 PPM

 

SALT mg/l CF EC

Calcium Nitrate 2000 20 2

Potassium Nitrate 2000 25 2.5

Magnesium Sulfate 2000 12 1.2

The CF of a nutrient formulation is a combination of the CF

contributed by all the dissociated nutrient salts from the A

and B stock solutions as well as impurities from the water supply,

and is not really any indication of the quality of the

formula, just an estimate of its strength. In hydroponics the only way

to determine the nutrient makeup of a formula is

either to have a complete mineral analysis done, use a range of

specific ion meters or to calculate the nutrients in

advance and use these in drain to waste systems. Any solution in

recirculating hydroponics will change over time.

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[ ] August 21, 2015

Outside of hydroponics CF may not even be a measure of the

strength of a formula, as a range of nutrients (eg Urea)

and compounds (eg fungicides) are added to water in fertigation or

spraying which do not conduct electricity.

PPM

 

The other common indicator for hydroponic nutrient strength is

PPM, or parts per million. 1 part per million is equiv-alent

to 1 mg per litre, or 1 g per m

3

. In theory, this is a measure of the actual strength of the nutrient

elements in

solution, and would seem to be an ideal measurement for

hydroponics. However, measuring this in practice is very

difficult for a grower in hydroponics.

Why Not TDS Meters?

 

An alternative to solve the problems with CF as a measurement may

seem to be to use 'TDS' or total dissolved solids

as a measure of nutrient solution strength, and if 'TDS Meters' in fact

did this, it would solve the problems. However a

'TDS' meter is simply a 'CF' meter with different calibration and

display - it still only measures electrical conductivity,

and in fact is less accurate because of the assumptions made

regarding the salt makeup of the solution - many

assume sodium chloride and have a fixed conversion factor (eg

70ppm per CF unit) which can not be adjusted for

different solution formulations. TDS meters which can be calibrated

for different formulations are a better alternative,

but still are only measuring CF in reality.

CF Effects on Plant Growth

 

If we assume that in hydroponics, the CF is a measure of the strength

of a nutrient solution, this has a significant

affect on the growth of plants, regardless of the mineral content of

the solution.

Osmosis describes the behaviour of ions in solution when separated

by a semi-permeable membrane, as for example

at the interface of root cells and nutrient solution. The concentration

of ions on either side of the membrane deter-mines

the net flow of ions through the membrane, as if ions are more

concentrated in solution than in root cells and

the membrane permits the transmission of ions, then ions will tend to

flow into the roots. This process is known as

'passive' transport or diffusion, and is assisted by the flow of water in

the transpiration stream of the plant. In fact, root

cells tend to maintain quite high 'osmotic potentials' but low

concentrations of ions which attract water and ions into the

roots. Some ions, Ca

2+

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[ ] August 21, 2015

and K+, NO

3-

, for example, are able to be transported into root cells, even against

a concen-tration

gradient by the energy requiring process of active transport. Once

water and ions are inside the roots they

diffuse through into the xylem vessels and flow with the

transpiration stream up into the stem. A natural reaction of

some plants to increasing solution strength, is to accumulate

assimilates in the leaves and fruit to equalise the osmotic

potential with the root zone.

This explanation may seem complicated, but it is the basis for the

effects noticed by increasing or decreasing CF in

hydroponics. CF influences the 'osmotic potential' of the solution in

the root zone, which influences the plant's rate of

water and nutrient uptake, and the adjustments made to osmotic

potential inside the plant. Increasing CF will reduce

water uptake by the crop, and cause many crops to concentrate

organic compounds in fruit and foliage. Increasing CF

tends to slow vegetative growth, and 'harden' plants. Conversely,

lowering CF will increase water uptake, and produce

lush soft growth. Consequently, the CF of solutions is normally

increased during winter and for fruiting crops, while

summer growing and leafy crops are normally run at a low CF to

maintain optimum quality.

CF can be maintained at higher levels in solution culture than in

media or drain to waste systems. In solution

culture there is a constant supply of water and the CF does not

fluctuate in the root zone, whereas in media

systems evaporation from the surface of the media and plant water

uptake can result in the CF becoming much

higher in the rootzone than in the 'feed' solution. The ratio of CF in

the feed to rootzone and leachate solutions

needs to be well regulated in drain-to waste systems, and CF 'in'

(feed) and CF 'out' (drainage) are standard

daily measurements.

pH

 

The pH of a nutrient formula is the measure of acidity below pH 7 or

alkaline above pH 7. It is defined as the "inverse

log of the hydrogen ion concentration". The practical implication of

this definition is that each pH reduction of 1 unit

actually means the formula becomes 10 X more acidic, a solution

with a pH of 4 is 10 x more acidic than pH 5, and

100 x more acidic than pH 6.

pH and Formulations

 

The strength (CF) of the formula does not affect the pH, but it does

affect the 'buffering capacity' at any pH. This is

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[ ] August 21, 2015

demonstrated by the amount of acid/alkali needed to change pH by 1

unit at different CF - as CF increases, more pH

adjuster is needed to alter pH by the same amount.

Different formulations will have different starting pH values,

because different salts become more or less acidic when

dissolved into water. Salts such as monopotassium phosphate lower

the pH more than salts such as calcium nitrate.

Most formulations will result in an initial pH of around 5.5 - 6.0,

which is ideal for the growth of most crops. This pH

results from only the commonly used salts being dissolved into stock

solutions, and so addition of acid or alkali to

stock solutions is usually unnecessary. However, these pH levels

assume neutral water supplies, if the water supply

has a high pH, along with high 'alkalinity' then the pH of the stock

solutions when diluted into water will be quite

different. 'Alkalinity' refers to the strength of the high pH, as a water

supply with high alkalinity will require more,

stronger acid, to reduce the pH by the same amount as a water supply

with low alkalinity. This inherent buffering ability

will carry on into the nutrient formulation. It is best to correct the pH

of unsuitable water before making up the stock

solutions

In hydroponics, some salts can be used to influence the pH control of

the nutrient solution, reducing the requirement

for acids during growth development phases of the crop. Ammonium

nitrate is one salt used for this purpose, and the

optimum amount seems to be that which provides 15% of the total

nitrogen of the formula in the ammonium form.

Ammonium in nutrient solution tends to be acidifying, as firstly

unlike nitrate it is a positive ion, and when taken up by

plants is replaced by hydrogen ions reducing pH in the root zone, and

secondly ammonium forms ammonium

hydroxide and hydrogen ions which produces a mild acidifying

effect when in solution.

pH and Hydroponic Crop Growth

 

Consideration of pH is important for hydroponic growers, because

the pH of the solution affects the solubility of

elements, and their availability to plants. Most problems occur where

pH becomes too high, above 7, resulting in

firstly iron then manganese and calcium forming insoluble salts

which precipitate out of solution. As the pH

increases above 7, plant uptake of some ions becomes less efficient,

so plants become deficient even if the ion

is present in solution.

As plants remove some ions from solution, the solution pH drifts,

upwards or downwards. If left uncontrolled,

typically the pH will drift downwards (to approx 4.5) for several

days after planting a new crop, after which the pH

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[ ] August 21, 2015

will steadily increase (to approx 7 or above). This feature is due to

the differential uptake of ions from solution,

with the release of hydrogen (H+) or hydroxyl (OH-) ions from the

root system. As positive ions, cations (Ca

2 +

, K+,

M g

2 +

etc) are removed from solution, hydrogen ions are released from the

plant root system to equalise the ratio

of anions to cations in the root zone. This lowers the pH of the

solution. As the crop commences active growth

anions (NO 3 etc) are taken up which increases pH through the

release of hydroxyl ions into solution.

Hydroponic Nutrient Formulation Basics

 

The range of hydroponic nutrient formulations available seems very

diverse, and yet if we look closely at their content

there are several underlying principles involved in formulating

hydroponic nutrient solutions. The following are some

standard features of hydroponic formulations:

Reason for ‘2-Part’ 'A' and 'B' mix.

 

In order to combine all the elements commonly needed for plant

growth into a concentrated form, the salts need

to be mixed into 2 separate solutions. The reason for this is that,

while in dilute solution all ions become soluble,

in concentrated solution certain ions react together to form insoluble

salts. If an ion is in an insoluble salt, it is no

longer available for plant growth. Once 'precipitated' it can only very

slowly dissolve back into solution when

diluted again. Precipitation is simply the result of two ions

combining in solution to form a salt which is insoluble,

eg when calcium nitrate and magnesium sulfate are added to water in

strong solutions the salts dissociate

producing magnesium nitrate along with calcium and sulfate ions

which then combine to form calcium sulfate or

gypsum which 'precipitates'. This occurs because compounds such as

calcium sulfate have very low 'saturation'

values (see later)and can not exist as concentrated solutions.

Generally it is necessary to keep the calcium

separate from the sulfate and phosphate salts. Therefore the calcium

nitrate and calcium chloride is kept

separate from the magnesium sulfate, potassium sulfate, sulfates of

trace elements, and monopotassium

phosphate, all other salts can be mixed in either A or B. There are

certain brands of nutrient which seem to

combine all elements into a single mix, but the manufacture of these

products is beyond the reach of most

g r o w e r s .

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[ ] August 21, 2015

Grow vs Bloom, Summer vs Winter, Drain-to-Waste vs NFT

 

Plants in nutrient solution culture will remove different ions faster

from solution at different stages of growth or

development, as well as during different light and temperature

conditions, and if left unchecked this quickly

results in formulations being unbalanced. Note that unbalanced does

not necessarily mean 'precipitated', or

' t o x i c ' .

While there are for example, 'Grow' and 'Bloom' formulae available,

it is important to note that using eg a

"Bloom" formula will not suddenly force vegetative plants to

commence flowering and fruiting, any more than

using a "Summer" formula produces fine weather. The differences

between the formulae is simply to allow the

nutrient solution to remain balanced for longer periods, while

estimating the likely rate of removal of certain ions

from solution under different conditions.

In general, as plants grow from being vegetative to flowering and

fruiting, the uptake of potassium and phosphorus

increases in proportion to nitrogen. Therefore a 'Bloom' formula will

typically have more potassium or a higher K:N

ratio than the equivalent 'Grow' formula. Other changes can result

from the increased K:N ratio, the pH of the formu-lation

can become slightly lower, the working CF may become higher, and

the amount of magnesium supplied can

also increase to avoid potassium induced magnesium deficiency,

common for example on tomatoes with heavy fruit

loads. Conversely a 'Grow' formula will provide a higher N:K ratio,

slightly lower CF at the same dilution, and less

extreme variation between the ratios.

Plants growing under low light conditions and cold temperatures

usually take up extra potassium, and tolerate a higher

CF. Therefore a 'Winter' formula may be similar to a 'Bloom' and

summer formula can be similar to 'grow'. The CF for

warm, high light conditions is usually lower to allow for increased

transpiration and water uptake.

The differences between the two sets of formulae becomes more

extreme the further the grower is from the equator,

and obviously depends on the crop being grown. For example a

Norwegian tomato grower is likely to make bigger

changes to their nutrient solution during the year, than a lettuce

grower in Singapore.

The difference between growing in media and drain to waste,

compared to recirculating solution as in NFT, is mainly

due to the CF and the fact that nutrients do not become unbalanced in

media systems to the extent that they can in

NFT. Generally solutions used for media and drain to waste are run

at lower CF than if the same solution was running

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[ ] August 21, 2015

in a recirculating solution culture system. For example a capsicum

grower using rockwool may apply nutrient solution

at a CF 16, whereas in NFT the same solution would be used at CF

25. This difference is due to the solution applied

being at a different CF to the 'root zone', and the drainage solution in

media systems. Some media are reported to

influence the retention or chemical nature of the applied nutrient

solution especially the pH, but this is often only a

minor problem when using new material, and in the case of pH

alteration is easily managed. In reality, there should be

no difference between nutrient solutions used for different growing

systems other than the working CF, and the

frequency of replacement.

Strength and Dilution

 

There is a physical and chemical limit to the amount of salts which

can be dissolved into nutrient stock solution. This

limit, the saturation value, is different for each salt, and restricts most

formulations to a maximum dilution rate of 500 -1000

times. This value varies depending on how the formula is split

between A and B, and the predominant salts used,

for example, much more calcium nitrate can be dissolved into 1 litre

of water than potassium nitrate. Above the

saturation value for a particular salt, the salt remains in crystal form

and does not dissociate in solution. A useful

practice to overcome this limitation is to split the potassium nitrate

requirement of the formula equally between the A

and B solutions - as potassium nitrate has the lowest saturation value

of the major salts, this increases the potential

concentration of the formula above what could be achieved if all the

potassium nitrate was in part A or B.

Solution ‘Balancing’

 

Under certain conditions, for example if alternating between 'A' and

'B' stock solutions in drain to waste, it is useful if

both stock solutions each have the same CF when diluted for use. In

this situation the ratio of potassium nitrate in A to

B is adjusted until the CF are the same. Normally, this is not

important, and the CF of 'B' is usually about 1.5 or 2

times the CF of 'A' if potassium nitrate is not divided between A and

B. When both are diluted equally the correct CF

will result.

Buying Pre-Made or Make Your Own

 

It was commonly suggested by nutrient manufacturers that it was

false economy if not disastrous for mere growers to

attempt to make their own nutrient formulations. Often these

suggestions were prompted by commercial interests, and

the few failures that occurred in growers making their own nutrients

were capitalised on and used as examples of why

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[ ] August 21, 2015

growers should only trust 'reputable' nutrient manufacturers.

However, there are significant cost benefits to making your own

nutrient formulations, there is great flexibility, and if

done correctly growers are likely to end up with a better formula.

There are of course advantages and disadvantages to both situations.

Buy Pre-Made If . . .

 

You can not obtain all the correct nutrient salts at an economical

price or acceptable quality.

You do not have weighing equipment capable of weighing down to

about 5g (small amounts for trace elements are

weighed out in large amounts and the stock solutions diluted into A

or B)

You do not have the time to weigh out salts and dissolve them.

Good brands are available which you have used successfully, and

the price difference to change isn't warranted.

You do not see the need to change your formula during growth.

You don't have the information or understand the calculations

involved in making your own nutrient formula.

You don't trust your own ability to make a correct decision.

You like to have someone else to blame if things go wrong.

Make Your Own If . . .

 

You can spare the time.

You want to save money, where salts are available and cheap

with good quality.

You want to optimise your nutrient solution so you are not

dumping so frequently - save money again.

You have the equipment to weigh and measure salts.

You would like to customise your solution to crop growth and

environment to get better results.

You can handle the calculations and you have the correct

information.

You want to maintain flexibility.

You get nutrient analysis done every so often and you are

confident you know what to do.

Memahami Kandungan Unsur dalam Baja

( Decoding Nutrient Solutions )- Mohammad

Abdul Rahman

By عبدالرحمن on Wednesday, 5 June 2013 at 12:00 محمد

Plants require nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K), along

with other elements known as macro- and micronutrients, to grow

well. In the wild, plants send out roots and try to find usable sources

of these elements. In a garden, these nutrients are usually supplied

(one way or another) by the gardener via fertilizers. With fertilizers,

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[ ] August 21, 2015

the gardener adds material that contains the desired elements in

forms that are either immediately available to the plant, such as is the

case with many nutrient salts, or will break down gradually over time

to become available to the plant, as organic materials tend to do. In

either case it is in the best interest of the gardener to have some idea

of the nutritional value of the fertilizer being added, both to make

sure that they don’t overfeed or insufficiently feed their plants, and

to make sure that they aren’t adding several sources of one element

and not enough of another.

Nutrient solutions are generally based on true solutions, although the

math works out the same even if they are mixtures instead.

A solution is made of at least two substances. The majority of the

solution will be the solvent (in aqueous solutions, like those used in

gardening, the solvent used is water). The substance dissolved into

the water is known as the solute. The amount of solute in a solution

determines the solution’s concentration. To put is simply, the more

nutrient added to the water, the stronger the solution becomes.

Knowing what elements (nutrients) a solute (the fertilizer) has, and at

what strength they are in, is important to calculating the final nutrient

solution given to the plants. To help with this, fertilizers are marked

with an N-P-K listing values to help gardeners get an idea of how

much N, P and K is in the bottle or bag.

Parts per hundred is a pretty common way to relate two things,

although it is more commonly referred to as percent. For example, a

fertilizer with an N-P-K rating of 10-5-14, is made of 10 parts N per

100 parts of fertilizer. Another way to express that is to say it is 10%

N. In the case of N, the N-P-K value listed and the amount of

elemental N are the same. For P and K, their N-P-K values are for

the oxide forms. Phosphorus oxide is 43.6 parts per 100 elemental P,

so—using the N-P-K value above—multiplying 5 by 0.436 will give

the elemental P value of 2.18 parts per hundred, or 2.18%. Potassium

oxide is 83% elemental K, so a final N-P-K value of 14 would

indicate a fertilizer that is 11.62% K (0.83 x 14 = 11.62).

While knowing that the composition of our solute is 10% N, 2.18% P

and 11.62% K tells us some useful information about the proportions

of what we are putting into the water to make our solution,

concentration is another critical factor. As this is a pretty potent

nutrient, the difference between mixing 1 mg per liter and 1 tsp (5

mg) per liter makes for a very different experience for the plants (this

is why I recommend at least reading the recommended feeding rates

even if you don’t follow them exactly). Just how big of a difference

can be shown with a little more math and the numbers we already

have.

1 liter of water weighs 1,000 g. If we add 1 g of solute, the total

weight becomes 1,001 g. Since our solute is 1 g of 10% elemental N,

we can calculate the weight of the element: 10% of 1 g = 0.1 g.

Since fertilizers are added to in small amounts, and the amount of the

desired elements are only a fraction of those small amounts, it is

common to use parts per million (ppm) to express how much of each

element is in the nutrient solution. Parts per million is used for

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[ ] August 21, 2015

concentrations smaller than can be easily expressed in parts per

hundred (percent), but larger than those commonly expressed in parts

per billion. To calculate ppm, simply divide the weight of element in

solute by the total weight of solution and multiply that total by one

million. So, using the data from our example for N:

(0.1 g N / 1,001 g) x 1,000,000 = 100 ppm elemental N.

We can also calculate the value of P and K using this same formula.

(0.0218 g P / 1,001 g) x 1,000,000 = 22 ppm elemental P

(0.1162 g K / 1,001mg) x 1,000,000 = 116 ppm elemental K

So, if 1 g of this nutrient is added per liter, the nutrient solution will

have 100 ppm N, 22 ppm P and 116 ppm K—which is in the ballpark

for many plants that aren’t actively fruiting. Since plants can survive

twice those values, going as high as 2 gm per liter would be

reasonable to work up to.

Note: if gallons are easier for you to work/mix in, simply multiply

the 1 g by 3.78541 to get the amount to add per gallon (in this case,

3.78541 g).

Back to our example, if you were to use 1 tsp per liter (or a heaping

tablespoon per gallon) instead of 1 g, calculating ppm shows how

dramatic a difference that makes for your plants. Here is the math:

1 tsp = 5 g.

Weight of N in solute = 0.5 g (10% of 5 g)

Weight of P is solute = 0.109 g (2.18% of 5 g)

Weight of K in solute = 0.581 g (11.62% of 5 g)

Total weight of solution = 1,005 g (1,000 g water + 5 g solute)

So,

(0.5 g / 1,005 g) x 1,000,000 = 498 ppm of elemental N

(0.109 g / 1,005 g) x 1,000,000 = 108 ppm of elemental P

(0.581 g / 1,005 g) x 1,000,000 = 578 ppm of elemental K

This will almost certainly cause overfeeding problems.

Also note that the equation can be reversed to estimate a dose from a

desired ppm. If a concentration of 150 ppm of N is the goal (and

we’re using our sample solute of 10% N), then:

150 ppm = 10% x 1,000,000 x amount to add / 1,000 g (ish).

This reduces to:

150 ppm = 0.1 x 1,000 mg x amount to add.

Leading to the answer of:

1.5 g = amount to add.

One of the most important statistics to consider in formulating a

feeding schedule is the ppm of each element of the final solution. By

running the numbers on paper, schedules can be evaluated (even if

they use several different components in concert). Also, not only can

current feeding schedules be analyzed, but they can be adjusted to

produce specific ppm solutions for different stages of plant growth.

For those that follow the manufacturer’s recommended application

schedule, these types of calculations should already have been into

account. However, for those gardeners who like to experiment while

trying to perfect their own feeding regimen concentrations, these

types of calculations can be critical.

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[ ] August 21, 2015

Oh, and if math isn’t your strong suit, or you would just prefer not to

do the calculations yourself, don’t despair! There are free nutrient

calculators online that can be used to compute the ppm values with a

minimal effort on your part.

PULVIC/HUMIC ACID- Mohammad Abdul

Rahman

By عبدالرحمن on Wednesday, 5 June 2013 at 12:06 محمد

A Golden Opportunity: Fulvic Acid/humic acid

Fulvic acid is one of the most well-balanced and vital minerals on

Earth. Dubbed the miracle molecule due to the sheer number of

functions it performs, fulvic acid is a truly unparalleled compound.

The plant and animal kingdoms rely on its benefits to support all life

on the planet.

Originating from the word fulvus (Latin for yellow), fulvic acid is

named for its natural golden honey color. Fulvic acid is a natural

acidic organic polymer. This means that it is not a single molecule,

but rather a combination of many different molecules with similar

chemical properties. Fulvic acids, along with humic acids, are

compounds found in humus— organic material that was metabolized

by fungi and microorganisms over millions of years—and are some

of the most biologically rich substances available. Thanks to its

molecular structure, fulvic acid has specific advantages over other

humic substances. In order to isolate fulvic acid, it must undergo an

additional extraction process using either acid or cold purified water

to separate it from humic acid. (For best results in the garden, use

only high-grade, non-chemical, cold-water extracted fulvic acid.)

Humic substances—such as fulvic and humic acid—commonly used

in hydroponic and horticultural applications are sourced from areas

rich with deposits known as humates. These humates include

materials like peat moss, lignite, Leonardite and humic shale, and

they are found in areas rich with mineraloid deposits, such as aquatic

ecosystems, bogs, marshes and dry lakebeds. The quality of the

products is directly related to the source of the humates from which

they were derived. Fulvic acids extracted from Leonardite prove to

be the best quality products on the market due to their high

percentage of fulvic content.

While fulvic acid is often recognized as an ingredient in several

horticultural products, many people might not realize what specific

features and benefits this powerful supplement has to offer. The

simple incorporation of fulvic acid into an existing nutrient schedule

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[ ] August 21, 2015

promotes a noticeable difference in the health, vitality and overall

productivity of indoor and outdoor gardens.

One of the most important features that fulvic acid offers the

horticulture industry is its natural ability to chelate nutrients. The

word chelate is derived from the Greek word chele, which literally

means claw. Fulvic acid acts like a claw to bond with macro- and

micronutrients that might otherwise be inaccessible to the plant.

Without the help of the fulvic acid, many of the larger molecules that

are unable to permeate cell walls would not make it into the plant

and get washed away in runoff water. However, once minerals fuse

with the fulvic acid, they become bioactive and chemically available

to the plant where they are needed most. This is because fulvic acid

—due to its low molecular weight—can easily penetrate the cell

walls of plant tissue, allowing the larger nutrient molecules to

piggyback their way into the plant. Once the chelated minerals are

inside the plant, the fulvic acid acts as a delivery system to transport

the nutrients to the parts of the plant where they will serve the best

functions.

The increased uptake of nutrients with the help of fulvic acid

maximizes the efficiency of the nutrients in any synthetic or organic

fertilizer (amazingly, one fulvic acid molecule has the capacity to

transport dozens upon dozen of minerals into the cells of a plant). It

naturally increases the plant’s metabolism and increases enzymatic

activity, making food more available to satiate the plant’s growing

appetite. Furthermore, it helps the plant retain and fully utilize

nutrients. This heightened efficiency results in fewer nutrients

needed over time, which saves money for gardeners!

Fulvic acid can be used indoor or outdoor in soil or hydroponic

systems, and is completely safe for organic gardeners. It can be

added to a nutrient solution and watered in as a root drench, or it can

be applied as a foliar feed. Fulvic acid also contains over 70

nourishing trace minerals and when mixed with water, these vital

trace elements and minerals become readily available to the plant.

When used as a root drench in soil gardens, fulvic acid helps

improve soil structure by delivering macro- and micronutrients

directly to the root zone, encouraging healthy growth. If used as a

foliar spray, fulvic acid will increase the amount of internodes or bud

sites on a flowering plant. It also promotes sturdy stalks and stems

while correcting minor deficiencies that might be present within the

plant.

Another benefit of fulvic acid is that it increases drought tolerance in

plants. By increasing the permeability of the cell walls in plant

matter, fulvic acid allows for plants to intake more water. With the

heightened capacity to retain water, plants stay quenched for longer

periods of time. This drought tolerance and water retention aid in

monetary, as well as resource, savings. Also, hydrated plants are

happy plants.

As if that is not enough, the list of functions that fulvic acid performs

goes on. It acts as a highly effective natural immunity booster for

plants. By infusing plants with an abundance of minerals and trace

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[ ] August 21, 2015

elements, fulvic acid helps to boost their resistance to a host of

environmental problems, such as disease, mold, fungi and insect

infestation.

Fulvic acid also works as a natural detoxifier and protective agent. It

removes toxicity from poisonous herbicides and pesticides from the

plant’s system. It acts as a natural antioxidant that neutralizes free

radicals by scavenging for unpaired positive or negative electrons

and supplying them with an opposite charge.

Fulvic acid is also an excellent pH buffer that will slightly lower pH,

help to stabilize drastic fluctuations and retain a steady pH balance.

This is important because plants rely on a specific pH range to make

use of vital nutrients. If the pH solution of a nutrient mix is too low,

or acidic, certain macro- and micronutrients are rendered useless to a

plant and it might become deficient in those minerals. If the pH level

of the feed solution is too high, or alkaline, the mixture could

potentially burn plants. An ideal pH range for most plants lies within

the range of 5.5 to 6.5.

Simple, yet complex, the myriad functions of fulvic acid is

astounding. In prehistoric times on Earth, the planet was rich with

humic substances and fulvic acid was abundant in the natural

environment. Dinosaurs roamed the land and lush verdant plants

grew to gargantuan sizes. Environmental conditions were prime for

oversized life forms. Through evolution, these legendary giant

species of plants and animals have gone extinct, but they left their

biologically rich remains locked within geological burial grounds.

Over the millennia, they have become the raw materials of the fulvic

acid we rely on and utilize in our modern gardens. Although plants

no longer grow to the mammoth proportions that they reached 65

million years ago, growers, gardeners and green thumbs worldwide

can mimic what Mother Nature perfected in ancient times. By

supplementing a normal nutrient regimen with fulvic acid, farmers

can increase the fertility of their crops and encourage bountiful

harvests that yield fruits and veggies rich with nutritional sustenance.

For yields that are worth their weight in gold, try fulvic acid—a

golden opportunity for your garden.

Root Growth Stimulation and Microorganisms -

Mohammad Abdul Rahman

By عبدالرحمن on Wednesday, 5 June 2013 at 11:54 محمد

There is no questioning the importance a healthy root system plays in

creating vibrant plants. After all, the root mass is the main channel

for nutrient absorption, the foundation for structural integrity and the

area where the largest population of beneficial microorganisms can

be found. The more we learn about the physiology of the plant’s

roots, the more we realize how vital these beneficial microorganisms

are—there would be virtually no plant life on the planet without their

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[ ] August 21, 2015

valuable symbiotic relationship with our plants. Throughout the

years, indoor horticulturalists have developed many products and

techniques to promote and enhance the root growth in their gardens.

Every one of these products or techniques is based on the same

philosophy: attempting to mimic, enhance or supplement

microorganisms found in the rhizosphere (the narrow region of soil

affected by root secretions). By using certain additives, a grower can

maximize the size of their plant’s root mass and provide a larger

surface area for moisture and nutrient absorption.

Additives that mimic 

One of the many things plants gain from their symbiotic partnership

with microorganisms is accelerated nutrient uptake. This is a result

of by-product enzymes produced by the microorganisms. Enzymes

are catalysts that accelerate the rate at which chemical reactions

occur. In this case, the chemical reaction is the uptake of nutrients by

the plants roots. Your favorite enzyme formula designed for root

enhancement is most likely a concentration of specific enzymes

secreted by beneficial microorganisms. Hydroponic horticulturalists

gain the largest benefit from these enzyme formulations, especially if

they use hydroponic systems that have no medium that would

naturally harbor beneficial microbes. Growers who supplement

enzyme formulas are essentially bypassing the microbes themselves

and directly placing specific enzymes in the root zone.

Additives that enhance

Both parties must benefit for a relationship to be symbiotic. We

know that beneficial microbes colonize on the root zone, thus

preventing infections from pathogenic fungus, and produce enzymes

that speed nutrient absorption. But how do the microorganisms

benefit from the relationship? The answer is sugars—more

specifically, carbohydrates that are translocated from the plant

(usually from the leaves) to the roots for the microbes to feed on.

The microorganisms use the carbohydrates for energy, which allows

them to function and reproduce. This is why carbohydrate

supplements are so popular in the indoor gardening industry. By

directly supplementing carbohydrates to the root zone, a grower can

accelerate the reproductive rate of beneficial microorganisms while

allowing the plant to retain a good portion of the carbohydrates

normally secreted through its roots. The carbohydrates that remain in

the plant can be used for other purposes like creating terpenes and

terpenoids, which are imperative for promoting flavor, smell and

essential oils. However, growers that supplement carbohydrates

should always be on the look out for any sign of a pathogenic

microorganism infection, as these microorganisms feed on

carbohydrates as well. Supplementing carbohydrates to pathogens

will accelerate their reproduction and can be devastating, so growers

should immediately stop supplementing carbohydrates at the first

sign of a potential pathogenic infection.

Supplying additional microorganisms

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[ ] August 21, 2015

The most logical way to promote additional microorganisms into the

growing medium is to directly supplement them. Almost every

nutrient manufacturer has designed some sort of beneficial

microorganism supplement, and the most common strains of

beneficial microorganisms used can be broken down into three

categories: trichoderma, mycorrhiza and beneficial bacteria. All three

types of supplements come as a liquid, a powder or in enclosed

packets that resemble tea bags. Liquid microorganism supplements

are usually designed, in both their composition and pH value,

specifically for hydroponic systems. The powder form

microorganism supplements have a longer shelf life than their liquid

counterparts, and they are more compatible with soil or coco coir.

The packets are suitable for both hydroponic and soil applications,

and have about the same shelf life as the powder formulas. No matter

which form you decide to use, always make sure to check the

expiration date. As with food expiration dates, this date is not an

absolute (not every one of the strains of beneficial microorganisms

will die on that date); however, the formula will be less effective if it

is way past its prime.

Trichoderma

Trichoderma is a genus of fungi found in all soils. Members feed on

other fungi and cellulose by releasing chitinase enzymes, which

break down chitin (the main component of fungal cell walls), and

cellulase enzymes, which break down cellulose. Trichoderma’s

symbiotic relationship with plants is directly related to those two

enzymes. In environments where there is an abundance of

pathogenic microbes, which could cause disease in plants,

trichoderma will produce more chitinase enzymes and rely on the

pathogens as their main food source. This is why many growers add

trichoderma to their medium as a precautionary measure against any

pathogens in or around the plants’ roots. The other enzyme,

cellulase, can be beneficial in two ways. First, it makes certain

nutrients available to the plant for uptake as it breaks down organic

material in the soil. Secondly, trichoderma’s production of cellulase

allows the fungus to penetrate the cells in a plant’s roots. When the

plant senses this, it turns on its natural defenses, which help boost the

plant’s immune system. Since trichoderma cause the plant no real

harm, both parties benefit—trichoderma gets sugars from the roots

and the plant gets a heightened resistance to unwanted pests.

Mycorrhiza

Mycorrhiza literally means fungus-root, and it is this fungus strain

that is the true definition of a symbiotic relationship (over 90% of

plant species in nature form a symbiotic relationship with these

amazing creatures). These specialized fungi are essentially

extensions of the root system, stretching far into the depths of the

soil. In fact, mycorrhizal fungi can increase the absorbing surface

area of a plant’s roots by 100 to 1000 times, which greatly improves

access to soil resources.

As with trichoderma, it is the enzymes mycorrhizae produce that

make them so invaluable to their plant partners. Mycorrhizae release

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[ ] August 21, 2015

enzymes that dissolve otherwise hard to capture nutrients, such as

organic nitrogen, phosphorus and iron. The intricate web of

mycorrhizal fungus captures and assimilates nutrients for the plant,

and in return, the plants’ roots secrete sugars or carbon for the fungi

to feed on. Mycorrhizae can be broken down further into

subcategories; of these, two are commonly used in indoor

horticulture: endomycorrhiza and ectomycorrhiza.

Endomycorrhiza

Endomycorrhizae are mycorrhizae whose hyphae (the branching

filamentous structures of a fungus) penetrate the plant cells. The

hyphae do not penetrate the interior of the cell, but essentially turn

the cell membrane inside out. This increases the contact surface area

between the hyphae and the cytoplasm, helping facilitate the transfer

of nutrients between them.

Ectomycorrhiza

Ectomycorrhizae are fungi that bear a hyphal sheath that surrounds

the root tip. Ectomycorrhiza also have a Hartig net, which is

basically an extended hypha that surrounds the outer layer of the root

mass. It is the Hartig net that allows the transfer of nutrients, carbon

and sugars, and completes the symbiotic relationship. An interesting

fact about ectomycorrhiza is that plants sharing the same soil can

actually transfer nutrients to one another through the ectomycorrhizal

mycelium network.

Beneficial bacteria

Beneficial bacteria have made a strong impression in the indoor

horticultural industry because they can be used as a foliar treatment,

as well as a soil or medium additive. When added to the soil or

medium, beneficial bacteria quickly colonize and feed off organic

matter or pathogenic microorganisms. As they break down organic

matter, they turn it into soluble compounds that are more easily

absorbed by plants. The consumption of the pathogenic

microorganisms is beneficial because pathogens that are eaten can’t

adversely affect the plant. Organic fungicide and pesticide

manufacturers have jumped on the beneficial bacteria bandwagon as

well, since certain bacteria (bacillus subtilis, for example) will

consume pathogenic fungus on the surface of a plant’s leaves as well

as in the soil. Many insects also refuse to feed or lay their eggs on

plants that have been sprayed with beneficial bacteria formulas.

Just as every garden is different, every gardener’s methods and

techniques will differ greatly. However, regardless of the technique

or method used, it is crucial for every indoor horticulturist to

stimulate the growth going on below the surface. Current innovative

horticultural products allow growers to mimic, enhance or

supplement microorganisms, or—better yet—combine all three

approaches to supercharge the complex microscopic ecosystem that

is the foundation for plant health and vitality.

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[ ] August 21, 2015

SENARAI BENIH / JENAMA / KOD / BERAT /

HARGA

By Wizan Zaini on Monday, 4 March 2013 at 23:48

CILI

 

Kulai 568 : 10gm (1600biji) : RM20/paket

Kulai 568 : 80gm : RM130-RM180/tin

Hup Nong : Cili 151:RM48

Known-You Seed : Cili S469 (1500biji) : 10gm:RM90

                                         (3000biji) :20gm:RM180

Leckat Seeds : f1 Abang Pedas 9000   :10gm:RM70

BENDI

 

Leckat Seed : 989 Jackpot (200gm) : RM95/tin

 

 

BENIH TIMUN

 

Leckat Seed : Symphony 747 (100gm) : RM180/tin

Hup Nong : Timun 108 : RM

Hup Nong : Timun 115 : RM

Known-You-Seeds:Timun S252 New Swallow 20gm:RM50(700-

800biji)

 

ROCKMELON

 

Sakata : Glamour:  100 biji : RM18-25 

Known-You-Seeds:Golden Langkawi 20gm:RM240(700-800biji)

Chiap Hup Seeds : Melon Appollo    20gm:RM190(700-800biji)

KAILAN

 

Leckat Seed : Kailan 11 : RM23/paket

Tips ringkas penanaman terung fertigasi

By Izam Ijam on Friday, 12 April 2013 at 20:54

semai biji benih dalam dulang semaian lebihkan 50% dari yang kita

nak tanam kerana kadar percambahan benih terung biasanya sangat

kurang.

atau semai terus di dalam polibeg sebaris dari baris2 yang kita mahu

tanam.

setelah 25 -28 hari semaian.pindahkan anak benih tersebut.kalau

yang semai dalam polibeg pisahkan anak benih tersebut,ambil yang

elok sahaja pembesaranya.

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[ ] August 21, 2015

dripkan baja AB pada kadar 2.0 sehingga agak lembab media

tersebut,siram 2 kali sehari pagi dan petang 2 minggu pertama

selama 5 minit sekali siraman.

ganti anak pokok yang rosak atau mati jika ada.

apabila masuk minggu ketiga tambah siraman ke 3 kali sehari dan

turunkan ec kepada 1.8..seterusnya jika pokok sudah mencapai

ketinggian 2 kaki,buang tunas air atau tunas ketiak sehingga cabang

Y..

setelah buang semua tunas,tambahkan siraman kepada 4 kali sehari

selama 5 minit pada kadar ec 2.5.

apabila bunga telah kelihatan,buang semua daun bawah,

dan apabila putik telah keluar perhatikan buah yang pada tangkai

yang pertama sahaja di ambil..yang lain buang.

1 tangkai bunga maksimum 2 biji sahaja di ambil kerana buah yang

lain agak kecil.seeloknya hanya 1 buah sahaja setiap putik..

tambahkan siraman mengikut keperluan pokok dan cuaca..

ec maksimum 3.5 ec..

apabila buah peringkat ketiga selepas 2 peringkat di petik,

masukkan mg dalam tangki siraman pada kadar 500g=600g air..

buat 2 minggu sekali bertujuan untuk mencantikkan warna buah

terung.

setelah usia pokok mencecah 6 bulan selepas tanam,kalau nak bela

lagi pun boleh.

cantas pokok dan kurangkan cabang2 nya..masukkan ammonium

nitrat atau urea pada kadar 1 kg= 600g sekali sahaja.

pokok terung akan tunas dan buah semula.akan tetapi buah pada gred

c lah...

serangga pula.

white fly..biasa bawah daun akan jadi jelaga hitam kalau banyak

sangat.

hamama merah..daun akan berkeruping keperangan

thrips..paling jahat.buah jadi karat dan daun rosak.

ulat daun..paling kuat makan daun..

ulat batang..batang akan mati lembik dan kemudian kering,patah

ulat buah..suka korek buah.

burung..kalau kebun banyak ulat burung makan ulat sambil jamah

buah.

_________________________________________________________

Nasihat berguna untuk petani cili fertigasi.

By Mohd Zaki Bin Yahya on Saturday, 18 February 2012 at 11:34

Dari Artikel Asal: http://mohdashraf.com

Tahukah anda, bahawa tanaman cili adalah tanaman yang sukar

untuk ditanam?Sebab tu harga cili mahal.

Jika cili mudah di tanam, maka harga cili mesti murah dari dulu lagi.

Tanaman cili fertigasi bukan boleh dibuat sebagai main-main. Anda

perlu sedar yang anda perlukan masa untuk belajar tanam cili ni.

Modal yang diperlukan juga agak tinggi. Ada yang sanggup

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[ ] August 21, 2015

keluarkan wang simpanan, tapi tiada wang untuk modal pusingan.

Kena buat perancangan yang teliti. Jangan hanya budget untuk

modal setup sistem fertigasi sahaja.

Tiada yang mudah. Walaupon meracun 3 hari sekali, tetapi tetap ada

yang kena serangan penyakit. Semua terserah kepadaNya. Kita dah

berusaha sebaik mungkin untuk jaga pokok tersebut.

Saya tanak ada yang sanggup melabur beribu-ribu ringgit hanya

kerana tertarik dengan hasil jualan yang akan diperolehi kelak.

Tidak semestinya anda dapat jual hasil dengan harga yang tinggi.

Harga cili pernah jatuh hingga RM0.80 / kg. Apa yang anda perlu

buat jika harga serendah itu? Bagi saya, cili ni bagaikan pasaran

saham yang turun naik harganya. InsyaAllah jika anda bersabar, akan

tiba masanya pokok anda akan mengeluarkan hasil yang tinggi dan

harga pada masa tu juga tinggi. Itu semua ketentuan pasaran dan

tuhan saja yang dapat berikah hasil yang tinggi atau rezeki yang

banyak kepada anda. Terserah kepadaNya.

Doa yang paling penting.

Saya tahu post saya kali ini akan sedikit menutup periuk nasik saya,

tapi, saya lebih gembira jika ramai yang tangguhkan dulu untuk

ceburi bidang pertanian kerana sedar tentang jenit perih untuk

memulakan sesuatu projek.

Jika anda tidak mampu bahagikan masa di ladang, atau tiada

pembantu yang dapat membantu anda, tangguhkan dulu projek cili

fertigasi anda. Seeloknya, simpan dulu wang anda di dalam saham

amanah.

Bila tiba masa yang sesuai, baru anda mulakan projek. Ada

dikalangan rakan-rakan saya yang gagal dalam pusingan yang

pertama saja kerana terpedaya dengan cerita penanam cili yang dah

berjaya (mesti ada cerita dia tak berjaya, tetapi hanya diceritakan

tentang kisah kejayaan saja).

Sedikit tips dari saya, jika anda kurang berjaya dalam tanaman cili

terutamanya dan projek agro khasnya,

Bila kita dah buat sesuatu projek, dalam masa pengetahuan kita yang

ada pada waktu itu, baja kita dah bagi cukup ikut pengetahuan pada

waktu itu, racun cukup, kawasan bersih, setiap langkah penjagaan

dah buat, sekarang ni semuanya bergantung kepadaNya.

Kalau dah rezeki kita, insyaAllah dapat la hasil yang tinggi.

Dalam masa yang sama, pencarian ilmu tu yang paling penting. Ilmu

yang kita tau ni, umpama setitik air di lautan. Banyak lagi ilmu yang

kita kena pelajari.

Bagi saya, tiada perkataan gagal, yang ada cuma belum berjaya.

Kalau dah berputus asa, masa tu la dikatakan gagal.

Thomas Edison pon kena buat 100 ribu percubaan baru dia berjaya

cipta lampu. Ada 99, 999 percubaan dia yang belum berjaya. Kalau

dia berputus asa, mesti kita tadak lampu sekarang ni.

PANDUAN SEMAIAN BIJI BENIH - oleh Icham

Rizqqah

By عبدالرحمن on Wednesday, 3 April 2013 at 16:27 محمد

74

[ ] August 21, 2015

Panduan semaian:

Benih direndam dalam Chitosan selama 4 jam...lepas tu toskan...air

chitosan tu dilarutkan lagi dan semburkan atas peatmoss...lepas tu

bubuh benih cili di dalam lubang tray dan ditimbus setakat

3mm...sembur lagi air chitosan supaya lembap sikit...dan tutup dalam

silvershine selama 4 hari...letak dulang di tempat yg redup...lepas 4

hari buka ss...mula dari dua daun kasi siraman baja anak SRI separuh

dose dua kali seminggu...setiap 10-12 hari sembur dgn Plantbac

campur chitosan...AACTdicampur air tahi cacing sembur seminggu

sekali....pencahayaan buat ikut peringkat pertumbuhan...last 3 hari

sebelum pindah baru buat pelasakkan full

sebaiknya sebelum di rendam , benih di rawat dulu jika tidak pakai

chitosan, rawatan buleh gunakan racun fungus spt provicur atau

mancozeb...rendan ikut dose 4 kali untuk spray rendan sekadar 20

minit. atau buleh gunakan clorox dengan kadar 3 chlorox, 2 sukatan

air....selama 20 minit juga...bilas dan rendam chitosan ..atau buleh

rendam multivitamin baby 5-6 jam bersama air bersih denagn kadar

4-6 titik untuk 1/2 lit air rendaman....benih cepat tumbuh dan sehat

MYCORRHIZAL FUNGUS-Mohammad Abdul

Rahman

By عبدالرحمن on Wednesday, 7 September 2011 at 23:46 محمد

Cara2 penghasilan fungus Mycorrhizal

bahan:

dua guni tanah dari akar pokok akasia dan juga dari pohon buluh

sediakan tapak tempat penghasilan

kawasan lapang di kebun, buat lah kotak kayu dinding saja empat

segi 3’ x 3’ x 4 -6 inci tinggi,atau besar terpulanglah, letak kotak tu

atas tanah, alas denagn guni, isi kotak tu denagn tanah yang 2 guni tu

di gaul sebati, campur pasir ½ guni setinggi 5 inci atau lebih. Buat

peneduh macam rph, korek parit sikit keliling peneduh supaya air

hujan tak masuk kat kotak.

 

Pokok yang nak di tanam kat kotak tu, ambil pokok rumput biasa,

biji gandum atau padi burung, biji kacang hijau, tabor jarang2 biji

tadi berselang nagn rumput sikit2…….siram pagi petang, biarkan

gandum dan kacang serta rumput tumbuh sendiri, boh baja sikit2 biar

naik subur sikit, baja organic. Biarkan pokok tu matang dan pupus

sendiri…3-4 bulan, dh nak matang jangan siram lagi, biar kering

sendiri, dah pupus, potong batang yang tertinggal separas tanah akar,

rumput pun potong atas jer biar semua akar2 dalam tanah….ambil

semua tanah berakar dan hancurkan, akar2 yang panjang cincang

biar halus, tanah hancur bersama akar tu di jemur biar kering sikit

supaya senang nak di hancurkan lagi, ayak dengan jarring dawai

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[ ] August 21, 2015

nyamuk hijau….ambil yang pass jarring tu………..yang kasar atas

jarring buang, kalu ada akr tas jarring, gumpal2 biar hancur sikit

serbuk yang kita dapat tu mengandungi banyak spores mycorrhizal,

simpan dalam bekas tempat kering, tutup bekas.

Bila nak guna tabor dalam lubang media yang kita buat untuk masuk

anak dari tray, tabor juga keliling sebelum tutup lubang…atau

lembabkan sikit media akar , golek2 akar anah benih pada serbuk

mycorrhizal  ( boh dalam pinggan atau dulang senang nak golek)

……..beres

 

kita guna tanah dari pada akar akasia dan buluh sebab mycorrhizal

selalunya banyak simbiosis pada akar pokok tu..jadi kita ambil

benihlah sebagai starter untuk di biakan dengan tanaman tadi.

 

 

Beneficial Fungi Boost Pepper Growth

By Jim Core

January 16, 2003

Beneficial fungi that live on plant roots increased green bell pepper

yields by as much as one-third in studies by Agricultural Research

Service scientists.

Arbuscular mycorrhizal (AM) fungi colonize the roots of most crop

plants and help plants take in phosphorus and other nutrients from

the soil. AM fungi have been diminished by modern agricultural

practices such as tillage, but in many instances can still make

important contributions to productivity, particularly in organic

farming and other systems where little if any chemical fertilizers and

pesticides are used.

David D. Douds, a microbiologist at the ARS Eastern Regional

Research Center in Wyndmoor, Pa., studied four different types of

AM fungi in three plantings from 1997 to 1999. He collaborated with

Carolyn Reider, a horticulturist at the Rodale Institute Experimental

Farm in Kutztown, Pa., to measure the fungi’s effects on pepper

yield.

They inoculated seedlings before transplanting them into field plots.

One treatment group contained only the AM fungus, Glomus

intraradices; another treatment comprised a mixture of three other

types of AM fungi; and a third, uninoculated group served as the

control. Plants were transferred into high-phosphorus-soil field plots

receiving either composted dairy cow manure or conventional

chemical fertilizer.

Results showed that inoculating peppers with AM fungi boosted fruit

yield. The best results were with the fungus mixture, which increased

yields each year by 14 to 23 percent in plots with added compost,

and up to 34 percent one year in plots with chemical fertilizers.

Proper selection of an AM inoculum is essential, according to

Douds, and a mixture of fungi increases the chance of having the

right fungus present for a given plant.

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[ ] August 21, 2015

Past studies have shown that AM fungi benefit plants grown in low-

phosphorus soil, and that high-phosphorus soils make it harder for

the fungi to grow on plant roots. However, this study’s results

suggest that using AM fungi in high-phosphorus soils is a

management option that shouldn’t be ignored.

BOOSTER SEMASA BERBUNGA/BERBUAH -

Mohammad Abdul Rahman

By عبدالرحمن on Wednesday, 30 January 2013 at 11:36 محمد

Boost When

the Time is Right:

Stage-specific Amendments

 

To get the most out of their plants, gardeners use nutrient additives,

soil amendments and foliar treatments

specifically designed for particular stages in a plant’s life cycle. Of

course there are plenty of choices available, but this author wants

you to know about the high-performance organic options

 

In order to increase production and optimise efficiency within their

indoor gardens, horticulturists use various stage-specific nutrient

amendments. The most common example of these is blooming and

ripening additives designed specifically to boost a plant’s fruiting or

flowering stage. Organic growers have also become more in tune

with the benefits of stage-specific feeding programs. As our

knowledge of organic supplements expands (along with our

technologies used to extract the vital compounds), more stage-

specific organic supplements are becoming available for the high-

performance organic grower.

 

Guano

Bat and seabird guano have been used to boost fruiting and flowering

since the beginning of indoor horticulture.

High-phosphorous guano helps trigger flowering hormones within

the plant and contributes to an increase in flower sets. There have

been much advancement in the harvesting and extraction methods

used by guano suppliers that help preserve the powerful elements

that were lost due to outdated methods. One extraction method is

guano tea, a liquid guano formula that is chock full of the beneficial

nutrients and micro-organisms found in the guano. Liquid guano

extracts like this one are more easily absorbed by the plants and give

growers the option to foliar or root feed. Unlike guano directly

amended to the soil or medium, liquid guano also gives gardeners

more control over dosage.

 

Kelp extracts

As with guano, kelp suppliers have made much advancement in

extracting and preserving the beneficial elements and hormones

found in kelp. Although kelp was once rarely used as a bloom

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[ ] August 21, 2015

booster, some of the kelp formulations available today are

specifically designed to do just that. Kelp extracts specific to bloom

stimulation encourage rapid cell division during flowering and

increase the production of specialised sugars found in fruit or

flowers. It is important to select a kelp formula that is designed

specifically for blooming, or you could end up promoting vigorous

growth during your plant’s ripening stage. Kelp extract, if harvested

at the correct time or in a particular manner, can also contain a

variety of hormones that help trigger flowering and ripening.

 

Alfalfa extracts

One of the newer organic extracts to hit the indoor horticulture

market is alfalfa extracts. Alfalfa has a great

nitrogen-to-carbon ratio, contains a variety of trace elements and has

been shown to promote larger flowers. Alfalfa contains triacontanol,

a growth hormone that is thought to speed up the rate of

photosynthesis by increasing the amount of CO2 that a plant can

process. Many studies have shown an increase in flower-site

production and overall yield with the use of alfalfa extract.

 

Protein hydrolysate ( FAA)

Protein hydrolysate is a recent advancement in organic stimulators.

Protein hydrolysate is essentially organic matter (usually soy protein)

broken down into the essential L-animo acids. Amino acids are the

building blocks for the proteins and enzymes that directly influence

the structure and metabolism of plants. Supplementing a protein

hydrolysate during a blooming period will enhance the utilisation of

other nutrients, boost the plant’s immune

system, increase plant respiration and reduce stress. Protein

hydrolysate is a multifaceted additive that increases fruit and flower

production in many different ways. If you are going to try one

organic stimulator, I recommend a protein

hydrolysate formula. Whether growing conventionally or

organically, bloom boosters play an important role in enhancing

yields. New and innovative products, teamed with advancements in

extraction  methods, allow organic growers to achieve harvests once

only obtained by conventional methods. As more is learned about the

intricate aspects of plant physiology, new products, methods and

technologies will be created, allowing organic bloom boosters to

even further evolve.

MASALAH DAN PENYELESAIAN DALAM

SISTEM HYDROPONIC FERTIGATION-

Mohammad Abdulrhman

By عبدالرحمن on Wednesday, 23 January 2013 at 15:15 محمد

From time to time, we all strike problems with our hydroponic

systems and plants. If we are lucky, it’s an easily resolved issue that

doesn’t cause too much stress. However, some things can baffle even

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[ ] August 21, 2015

the most experienced grower and that’s when a step-by-step

approach to troubleshooting is required…

Most common problems experienced in hydroponic gardens are

caused by one of four main things: nutrition, the plant’s growing

environment, pests and pathogens and—less frequently encountered

—genetic problems. Even though complete, balanced and well-

formulated nutrient solutions are used in hydroponics, nutrition can

still be a main area of troubleshooting and one that confuses many

inexperienced growers.

Nutrient troubleshooting

Hydroponic systems are reliant on the composition and formulation

of the nutrient solution to supply all the essential elements required

for optimal plant growth and yields. However, nutrient solutions are

complex and their composition changes as mineral ions are extracted

when they flow through the root system. Deficiencies in hydroponic

production are more common than toxicities, as plant uptake of many

elements has the potential to strip out nutrients at a rapid rate,

particularly from recirculating solutions. The most common

deficiency problems in hydroponic crops are potassium in fruiting

plants like tomatoes; iron under certain environmental conditions;

nitrogen in some readily growing, highly vegetative crops; and

calcium in many species, such as lettuce, tomatoes and peppers.

To complicate hydroponic plant nutrition further, deficiencies (as

they occur on different crops) might or might not be the result of an

actual deficiency in the nutrient solution. Potassium can certainly be

stripped from a nutrient solution rapidly as fruit develops and

expands, and because luxury uptake occurs in many crops. However,

iron, calcium and magnesium deficiencies on leaves and fruit occur

even when there is more than a sufficient amount of these elements

in a solution. These induced deficiencies often fool growers into

thinking there is a problem with the formulation of their nutrient

when the cause is often more complex.

Iron

Iron deficiency is common under cool growing conditions, where the

root system might have become saturated or damaged, or where the

pH is running high.

Magnesium

Magnesium deficiency on crops like tomatoes can be induced by

high levels of potassium uptake. 

Calcium 

Calcium deficiency, which shows as tip burn on lettuce and blossom

end rot on tomatoes and peppers, is a calcium transport problem

within the plant rather than a lack of calcium in the solution. It is

induced by environmental conditions like high humidity, which

restricts transpiration and calcium distribution.

Salt buildup and EC problems

Salt buildup appears as white or off-white crystalline crusts or

residues on the surface of growing media and sometimes on the base

of plant stems, where it can cause salt burn damage. Certain types of

media are more prone to this nutrient problem than others—for

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[ ] August 21, 2015

example, those with porous structures and high rates of water loss

are more prone to salt crusting than others. Expanded clay granules

and similar media often develop a whitish coating on the surface

after a few months use, and this can be common in ebb-and-flow

systems. Media beds covered with plastic film—as in the case of

rockwool slabs—rarely develop these salt deposits on the surface, as

the film prevents excessive moisture loss from the media. 

Salt buildup occurs when a media, which has been thoroughly wetted

with nutrient solution containing dissolved salts, loses moisture to

evaporation faster than the minerals are taken up by the plant’s root

system. In this case, the moisture is lost to the atmosphere and the

minerals stay behind, thus increasing the EC in the media and around

the roots. This salt buildup in the root zone can cause damage both

through direct contact with the salt crystals around the delicate plant

stem, particularly in seedlings, and by increasing the osmotic

pressure around the plant roots. Luckily, salt buildup is easily dealt

with once growers recognize the symptoms: white crusting is the

first sign, as is plant growth becoming stunted, dark, hard and

unusually slow. As salt accumulation becomes more severe, the stem

area at the base of the plant and roots can be burnt and die back,

resulting in wilting during the warmer times of day and, later, disease

attack in these areas.

Regular monitoring of the EC of the nutrient solution draining from

the media helps prevent and diagnose salt accumulation problems.

Ideally the EC of the feed solution should not increase as it flows

through the root system. If the EC is increasing as its flows through

the root system and out the base of the growing container, then salt

buildup is likely to occur. However, even plants fed a low EC

solution can develop salt accumulation where the atmosphere is dry

and high rates of water loss from a porous media occur. In this case,

the media will benefit from some leaching from time to time and a

thorough clean between crops (or even replacement in severe cases).

Some growers prefer to leach excess salts from growing media using

plain water; however, this can have negative effects when an actively

growing crop is present, as the sudden drop in osmotic pressure in

the root zone triggers a large influx of moisture into the root cells,

which can result in fruit splitting and soft, weak vegetative growth.

Flushing growing media with either a specifically designed flushing

solution or a nutrient one-third its regular strength is recommended

to remove excess salts from the root zone. Carrying this process out

every few weeks might be required in certain hydroponic systems,

such as shallow flood-and-drain or tray systems in warm climates

with high evapotranspiration rates, and often between crops if media

is to be reused

Algae

Most hydroponic growers come across algae sooner or later. It can

appear as a green, brown, reddish or black, slimy growth that clings

to channels, gullies and pumps or spreads over the surface of damp

media. Long strings of algae are common in nutrient tanks and return

channels, and the speed at which this form of plant life can grow and

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[ ] August 21, 2015

multiply is often impressive. Algae usually have earthy or moldy

smells, and large volumes of decomposing algae in the nutrient can

be responsible for unpleasant odors. Algae is a nuisance to any

grower as it not only looks unsightly, but has the ability to block

drippers, emitter, pumps, return channels and filters. Heavy growth

can even seal off the surface of growing substrates, robbing the roots

of oxygen.

The problem with algae—apart from the appearance and smell

problems it can create—is not so much that it competes with plant

roots for nutrients, but that it sucks up dissolved oxygen from the

system it blooms, dies and decomposes. This increases the biological

oxygen demand (BOD) on the system and causes root suffocation

from a lack of oxygen. Decomposing algae might also release toxins

as it breaks down and provides a food source for plant pathogenic

fungi, which might then multiply to high levels in the system. Algae

directly attached to plant root systems can suffocate the roots,

making the plants prone to attack by opportunist pathogens like

pythium.

Control of algae, once established in a hydroponic system, can be

difficult. Still, most growers tolerate small amounts of algae in their

systems, provided it does not become excessive. A regular scrub

between crops will often remove stubborn algae and is often the only

control used by commercial growers. Some growers do add

algaecide products into the nutrient to kill off algae and there are a

number of these products on the market. However, since any product

that kills algae (a form of plant life) can also damage young or

sensitive root systems, care must be taken with the dose. Also, algae

will regrow very quickly after applications of most algaecide

products, thus requiring regular applications to maintain good

control. 

Root death

The major causes of root death in hydroponics are suffocation,

starvation, pathogens, chemical damage, temperature and EC/pH

problems. In hydroponics, suffocation is probably the leading cause

of root death and reduced growth rates. Often, any pathogens present

won’t attack a healthy root system until it is damaged or weakened

by adverse conditions (such as stagnation or suffocation in the root

zone). A lack of oxygen can be caused by flooding or ponding of the

nutrient solution, decomposing organic matter in the solution, slow

flow rates and too many plants robbing oxygen from the root zone,

which is accelerated as conditions become warmer. A lack of oxygen

reduces the permeability of roots to water, and toxins will

accumulate as the root cells die. Some plants, such as tomatoes, will

attempt to adapt to the lack of oxygen by producing adventitious

roots on the lower stem and swelling at the stem base.

Starvation

A lack of nutrients will affect the root system, just as it does the top

of the plant; however, the symptoms are more difficult to observe. A

phosphate deficiency will cause the roots to become brown with a

reduced number of lateral branches. A lack of calcium will induce a

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[ ] August 21, 2015

thin, poorly developed brown root system. Manganese deficiency

will cause a small root system that’s much shorter and finer than

usual, with some browning of the root tips. Copper deficiency results

in severe underdevelopment of the root zone. Boron deficiency

causes the root tips to become jelly-like in appearance.

EC and pH

An electrical conductivity (EC) level that is too high for the crop

being grown will result in severe stunting of the root system. If the

EC reaches extreme levels, water will be lost from the root cells back

into the nutrient solution to the point where root death will occur.

This is more common in crops that prefer a lower EC level, such as

lettuce.

Likewise, pH levels that are too high or low can induce root damage

and nutrient uptake problems. (Still, the pH range that plants can

tolerate without any negative effects is fairly large.) It has been

found that the appearance of the root system differs in hydroponic

plants that have been grown at different pH levels. Plants grown at a

pH of 7.5 and above have a shorter, coarser root system than those

grown at a pH of 5.5. Higher pH levels reduce the availability of

certain elements in solution, mostly iron and manganese, and could

induce deficiency symptoms.

Root problems

Root diseases are a major concern for hydroponic growers. This is

particularly true of growers who use NFT and other recirculating

systems that could quickly transport pathogens to a large number of

plants. Some pathogens that can attack roots in hydroponic systems

have symptoms that make them easy to identify (with some practice).

However, others might not have any symptoms at all. One aspect

these pathogens all have in common is their ability to reduce plant

growth and yield. The most common pathogens that effect roots in

hydroponic production are pythium, phytophthora, fusarium,

olpidium, plasmopara, didymella and verticillium. Others have also

been reported to cause crop losses; in fact, about 20 fungal, four viral

and two bacterial pathogens exist that are commonly associated with

root diseases in hydroponic vegetable crops. Root pathogens can

infect hydroponic crops from a number of sources, including air,

water, media, insects, infected plant material, seeds and dust.

Airborne root pathogens are rare, but have been known to occur. A

more common source of infection is soil, which hosts a huge number

of inoculum. Soil can enter a hydroponics system on shoes, as dust in

the air, in media, on equipment or in water (particularly from

exposed sources, such as reservoirs, rivers and streams). Insects,

such as shore flies and fungus gnats, can also carry pathogens.

Since many root problems and odd symptoms are caused by

pathogens, and such attacks are often induced by stressed plants,

cultivating a healthy crop is always a grower’s first line of defense.

Ensuring adequate oxygen is present in the root zone throughout the

hydroponic system is essential. Sometimes environmental or cultural

problems exist that stress the plants without the grower’s knowledge.

Therefore, observing the root zone on a regular basis is vitally

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[ ] August 21, 2015

important. In media-based systems, a grower who notices a plant

showing signs of wilt or discoloration should pull it out and examine

the root system. Once any plant has been identified as potentially

having a root disease, it should be removed from the cropping area

and destroyed. Proper sanitation and hygiene in hydroponic systems

is also important for pathogen control. Root pathogens can carry over

from one crop to the next, so many media or substrate that contained

an infected plant should be discarded. In areas where there are high

populations of root disease pathogens, commercial growers need to

consider some form of control, such as treating the water supply with

UV light, H2O2 or ozone. 

Fruiting and flowering problems

Fruiting crop problems in hydroponics can range from a simple lack

of fruit development to more complex physiological disorders like

blossom end rot. Many growers have experienced fruit with skin

disorders, such as uneven coloration, blotching, crazing, streaking,

silvering and other unidentified spots. Fruit splitting can be common

in crops like tomatoes. Bell peppers and cucumber can become

grossly misshapen. These disorders are largely physiological,

environmental and cultural. 

Flower and fruitlet drop

Most common hydroponic crops will flower when they have reached

their appropriate point in development. One frequent problem is

flower drop. There are many potential causes of flower and fruitlet

drop in hydroponic crops; some are internal and caused by plant

stress, and some are environmental. In many crops, flower drop in

induced by high air temperatures. However the point at which this

thermal stress occurs varies for each crop and cultivar. Low light

levels that limit the growth of the whole plant can also induce drop,

particularly where low light is combined with high temperatures.

Although not as common in hydroponic crops as those grown in soil,

mineral deficiencies, such as low levels of nitrogen or phosphorus in

the nutrient solution, can slow flower and fruit development and

cause drop. Flower drop can also be caused by water stress (either a

lack of irrigation or high EC levels).

 

With the development of high-yielding cultivars, another major

cause of flower and fruitlet drop has become heavy fruit load or

excessive vegetative growth. Young, newly developed leaves

compete for assimilates with the flowers and fruitlets already on the

plant. If assimilates are transported to these new leaves at the

expense of the flowers, drop can occur. This is more common in

situations where assimilate production is limited due to low light or

other reasons. Lowering plant density and using CO2 and suitable

cultivars less prone to drop both assist growers in preventing these

types of problems (which often occur in winter). The presence of a

heavy fruit load developing on the plant has the same effect; new

flowers and fruitlets can be sacrificed in favor of the rapidly

developing, larger fruit already present. In certain crops, a lack of

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[ ] August 21, 2015

pollination could be the cause of flower and, more commonly,

fruitlet drop.

TIPS2 PERTANIAN....adaptasi dari Fuad fertgasi

oleh Mohammad abdul Rahman

By عبدالرحمن on Saturday, 5 January 2013 at 06:55 محمد

tip untk penanam melon... rugi x baca..

 

Nah !.. satu lagi maklumat untuk peminat MELON fertigasi.. Saya

sarankan " Penanam melon fertigasi... jangan tanam melon untuk

keluarkan sebiji sepokok lagi.. ok!..) Bukannya apa.. nak tambah

keuntungan.. Sebiji besar berat > 2.0 kg dan cantik masih tak dapat

juala macam harga di Jepun. Orang jepun menilai dari sudut

berlainan sebab itu sangat pentingkan kualiti dan sanggup bayar

sehingga ratusan ringgit sebiji.. Mereka hargai kecantikan bentuk

dan netting (deria lihat), mereka hargai keharuman dari aroma yang

dikeluarkan (deria bau), mereka hargai keenakan rasanya (deria

rasa). Pasaran di Malaysia tak sampai tahap tu... cukup berat, manis,

bentuk ok, netting lebih kurang ok.. dah!.. HABIT POKOK MELON

FERTIGASI - Jangka hayat sekitar 70 - 85 hari di ladang. Mula

berbunga 25 - 30 hari di ladang. Bunga jantan keluar dulu... bunga

betina 2 - 3 hari lewat. TIP PANDUAN: 1. Kepekatan baja sentiasa

bertambah setiap minggu dari 1.5 hingga lebih 3.0 mS/cm. 2. Umur

seminggu, getu pucuk utama - galakkan cabang dan banyak daun. 3.

Umur 20 - 25 H di ladang kepekatan lebih 2.0 mS/cm. Lebih baik

tambah Ca. 4. Umur 20 - 25 H sapu pangkal batang dengan racun

kulat cth: antracol dll - elak gummy stem 5. Umur 20 - 25 H boleh

juga cucuk pangkal batang dengan lidi atau pencungkil gigi... 6.

Kawin bunga seawal mungkin sebaik sahaja bunga betina keluar ( 26

- 30 H) diladang. Lakukan berturut-turut dan buat kepada semua

bunga betina yag keluar. Waktunya 7.30 - 11.00 pagi je.. 7. Umur 38

- 45 H buat pemilihan buah yang sama besar sahaja. Tinggalkan 2 - 4

biji sepokok. Buah yang lain buang. Jumlah buah yang dikekalkan

bergantung kepada bilangan daun subur & sihat. 20 helai utk 1 biji,

40 helai utk 2 biji, 60 helai untuk 3 biji dst.. 8. Nak besarkan buah...

boleh celup dengan GA (giberillic acid). 9. Kawin awal, buah ada

peluang untuk membesar lebih lama (30 - 60H) 10. Ingat !.. daun

subur, sihat .. adalah kilang untuk buat makanan pokok tersebut.

Lebih banyak daun, mampu besarkan buah dan tampung keperluan

pembesaran buah. 11. 7- 10 H sebelum pungut hasil pekatkan baja

lebih 3.0 mS/cm dengan Hi-K untuk tambah kemanisan CUBA

ELAKKAN POTONG PUCUK UTAMA KECUALI 10 HARI

TERAKHIR... Pucuk sulur patut buang. Jika pucuk utama dibuang,

pokok kurang daya serapan baja/air.

 

TIP TAMBAH BERAT BUAH (CILI & TERUNG) - 1 - 2 jam

sebelum petik hasil cili atau terung, lakukan siraman terlebih

dahulu. Kalau kaedah fertigasi - titiskan air baja lebih kurang

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[ ] August 21, 2015

10 - 15 minit pada 7.30 pagi. Petik buah jam 9.00 pagi.

InsyaAllah berat buah bertambah ( kadang capai 20 - 30%)

berbanding tidak berbuat demikian. terung pun begitu juga...

INI BUKAN TIPU BERAT TAPI TAMBAH

BERAT..Cubalah !...

 

TIP CILI BERTERUSAN KELUAR PUCUK BARU - Habit

pokok cili berbunga dan berbuah di cabang. Cabang akan

terbentuk bila ada pucuk baru keluar. Setelah beberapa bulan

pertumbuhan kadangkala pokok cili seolah-olah berhenti

membesar (tak de pucuk baru). Ini boleh diatasi dengan

memberikan air dan nitrogen yang banyak daripada kebiasaan

yang diterima. Oleh itu penanam boleh memberi tambahan baja

N (seperti Urea atau SA atau Amm nitrat) setiap 7 - 10 hari

kepada pokok yang telah berbuah atau berumur lebih 3 bulan di

ladang. Bagi pengamal fertigasi tambah Urea atau Amm. nirat

0.5 - 1.0 kg dalam tangki 600G dan titiskan 10 - 15 minit sebelah

pagi ok... Cubalah...

COMPOST TEA ( AACT ) By Mohammad Abdul

Rahman

By عبدالرحمن on Saturday, 20 August 2011 at 13:20 محمد

Compost tea di gunakan untuk  mewujudkan hidupan microbes pada

daun dan zone akar dalam media, dan memebri nutrients yang terlaru

pada daun dan akar.

Compost tea adalah cairan yang di keluarkan dari bahan ccompost

yang mengandungi bacteria, fungus, protoazoa dan nematodes dan

element baja untuk penyuburan dan ketahan penyakit pokok.

Compost tea tiada sama dengan komersil BM dari segi kandungan

bacteria dan fungus, dimana  Activated Aerated Compost Tea

( AACT) mengandungi pelbagai bacteria dan fungus yang terhasil

dari pengoposan  dan juga dari tahi cacing yang mengandungi

pelbagai enzymes dan hormones

 

Antara kebaikan AACT adalah :

meningkatkan pertumbuhan pokok hasil dari  tambahan baja daun

dan akar dan pengawalan microbes terhadap microorganism perosak

yang menyebabkan penyakit pokok.

Perkembangn pokok meningkat bila serapan dengan activity

microbes pada akar memudahkan serapan dari baja kompleks ke baja

yng mudah di serap, dan ini menjimatkan penggunaan baja, baja juga

tidak mudak tersejat atau leaching kalau hujan atau siraman berlebih

Menurunkan kadar kerosakan tanah/media hasil penggunaan racun

dan baja kimia, serta menstabilkan pH dan mengurangkan stress

bilamana keadaan amat kering.

Meningkatkan kadar serapan nutrients dengan meninggikan serapan

pada daun kerana dengan adanya microbes, stomata akan membuka

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[ ] August 21, 2015

lebihlama berbanding ketiadaan microbes dan mengawal peruapan

air dari daun.

Mengurangkan kehilangan air dari media dan mengekalkan

kelembapan media , jadi kehilangan air di minimisekan.

 

Cara2 Membuat Compost Tea ( AACT) untuk 20 lit

a) Bacteria Dominant AACT

½ lit baja compost  ( compost buat sendiri atau buleh beli kat kedai)

½  lit tahi tanah tahi cacing dari tempat tak tercemar spt hutan atau

belukar

1 cawan molasses atau gula merah dicair pekat

½ cawan baja ikan atau fishmeal atau serbuk ikan

¼  cawan habuk kuari ( buleh ayak dari quarry dust, buleh bubuh

juga serbuk kulit kerang atau kulit telur)

 

sediakan karung di buat dari kain jarang spt kain langsir atau panty

hose wanita bersaiz untuk muat 1.5 lit bahan. Isi karung dengan

bahan compost, habuk kuari dan baja ikan.

gantung karung 6-8 inci dari dasar tong 20 lit, isi air bersih tanpa

klorin ( kalu guna air paip, bagi bubble dulu dalam sehari atau biar

terdedah dua hari supaya klorin meruapa), air telah atau hujan amat

baik

masukan gula merah dan kacau kejap. Pasang kan 2 biji batu angin

akuarium pam angin, biar batu didasar tong……….jalankan pam

selama 24-36 jam……..siap

Bila di gunakan ( dalam masa 3 jam selepas pam di matikan ) gunkan

kadar 1:20 untuk foliar spray dan 1:30 untuk siraman media. Semasa

menggunakan buleh campur bahan lain spt FAA, FPJ , FFJ dengan

kadar ½ dari AACT, buleh juga bubuh ½ botol yakult dan juga air

peraman basuh beras. kalu ada humic asid buleh tambah 1 sudu

makan, kalu tak ada humic tak mengapa sebab dalam kompos

memang dah ada humic. AACT ni amat sesuai  untuk semburan

foiliar untuk melawan penyakit daun

 

b) 50:50 bacteria –fungi AACT

untuk ini kita banyakna sikit source untuk fungi terutama

trichoderma fungus amat baik untuk melawan penyakit akar.

buleh gunakan sedikit tanah dari pokok buluh, atau kulapuk putih

yang terhasil dari bungkah cendawan.

BUleh gunakan juga dedak halus atau dedak ayam halus di basah

lembab dengan air dan di biarkan sehingga Nampak kulapuk, campur

dalam bahan compost atau air sebanyak ½  cawan. AACT ni amat

sesuai untuk siraman pada akar denagn kadar  1: 30, buleh campur

bahan lain juga spt AACT dia atas

SOP PENGGUNAAN PLANTBAC DAN

CHITOSAN

By Faridwajdi Sakimin on Friday, 7 October 2011 at 15:04

86

[ ] August 21, 2015

PROGRAM MENGHASILKAN TANAMAN SAYURAN YANG

SIHAT DAN MENINGKATKAN HASIL PENGELUARAN

TANAMAN          

 

(Plantbac dan Chitosan)

 

Rawatan biji benih:

-Bagi biji benih yang ditanam di dalam tray semaian,langkah

rawatan seperti dibawah:

 

a)Setelah biji benih di letakkan di atas tanah peatmoss ,lakukan

semburan larutan

   chitosan keatas biji benih tersebut(5ml chitosan/ 1 liter air).

b)Kemudian isikan peatmoss menutupi biji benih tadi sehingga

memenuhi lubang tray

    semaian tersebut

c)Kemudian lakukan semburan sekali lagi dengan larutan chitosan(5

ml chitosan/1 liter

   air) ke atas peatmoss sehingga keseluruhan peatmoss di dalam tray

lembab

  Contohnya biji benih cili,bendi,terung,timun dsbnya)

d)Hari kedua selepas tanam biji benih,lakukan semburan cecair

Plantbac(10gm 

   Plantbac/1 liter air) ke atas peatmoss sehingga keseluruhan

peatmoss lembab.

e)Hari berikutnya lakukan semburan dgn air kosong sahaja bagi

tujuan mengekalkan

   kelembapan peatmoss

Sekiranya biji benih direndam dlm ceair chitosan dgn dosage

5ml/1liter air selama 20~30minit sebelum menanam biji benih ke

dalam tray semaian adalah digalakkan sebelum langkah (a)

 

 

Rawatan anak benih:

a)Semburan air kosong perlu dilakukan setiap hari daripada hari ke 3

hingga ke 10 ditray

   semaian

b)Pada hari ke 11,lakukan semburan cecair chitosan (5ml

chitosan/1liter air) ke atas anak

   benih dan peatmoss di tray semaian

c)Pada hari ke 12 hingga hari ke 19 ,lakukan semburan air kosong

sahaja ke atas anak

   benih dan peatmoss

d) Pada hari ke 20,lakukan lagi semburan cecair chitosan (5ml

chitosan/1liter air) ke atas

    anak benih dan peatmoss di tray semaian

e)Pada hari ke 21 hingga hari ke 25 ,lakukan semburan air kosong

sahaja ke atas anak

   benih dan peatmoss

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[ ] August 21, 2015

f)Pada hari ke 26,pindahkan anak benih ke polibeg(Sebelum

pindahkan anak benih

   tersebut ke polibeg,lakukan sekali lagi semburan cecair

chitosan(5ml chitosan/1 liter

   air) ke atas anak benih dan peatmoss di dalam tray

***Untuk rawatan yang lagi baik,campurkan 5gm Plantbac dan

chitosan(5-10ml/liter air)semasa rawatan biji benih dan semasa

peringkat semaian tu.

 

Rawatan tanah atau media di dalam polibeg:

a)Dalam tempoh 4 atau 5 hari sebelum proses tanam anak benih ke

tanah atau media

   polibeg,tanah atau media tersebut mestilah dirawat dgn cecair

Plantbac(3gm Plantbac/1

   liter air pencairan)

b)Siraman cecair Plantbac tadi boleh dilakukan secara drip atau

semburan ataupun

   manual tuang ke atas tanah iaitu tempat  dimana anak benih akan

ditanam

c)Lakukan semula ,penggunaan cecair Plantbac ke atas tanah atau

media semasa anak

    pkk berumur 2 minggu di tanah atau media

 

d)Penggunaan seterusnya bergantung kpd pengusaha tanaman

tersebut,nak lagi baik

   surelah kena guna lebih lagi,ikut budget masing2

 

 

Rawatan anak pokok dalam pembesaran dan penghasilan hasil:

a)Apabila anak pkk sudah di tanam di tanah atau

media,penyemburan cecair chitosan

   perlulah dilakukan pada hari ke 4 anak pokok selepas ditanam

b)Penyemburan cecair chitosan perlulah dilakukan sekali setiap

minggu ,utk memberikan

    tahap pencegahan penyakit dan penghasilan hasil yang

tinggi(pencairan 5~10ml

    chitosan/1 liter air).Kalau guna 10ml/liter atau 20ml/liter lagi baik

c)Cecair chitosan dgn dosage 5ml/1liter air boleh didripkan atau

disiram pada tanah atau media 

   untuk menggalakkan lagi pembentukan cabang2 baru pkk

tersebut.Dgn penggunaan Plantbac

   utk tanah atau media akan mepercepatkan uptake nutrient melalui

akar pokok

###PENGGUNAAN CAMPURAN PLANTBAC DAN GTR

CHITOSAN SECARA SEMBURAN KE POKOK DAN DRIP

ATAU SIRAMAN KE TANAH ATAU MEDIA ADALAH

MEMBERIKAN KESAN PENCEGAHAN YANG LEBIH BAIK

Kebaikan rawatan di atas:

Plantbac:

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[ ] August 21, 2015

a)Memberikan perlindungan kpd zon akar tanaman daripada

penyakit yang berpunca

   daripada bakteria jahat dan kulat merbahaya

b)Jika disiram di tanah,akan menguraikan kandungan zat mineral

dalam tanah dimana

   akan menambahkan uptake zat tanah melalui akar tanaman

c)Memperbaiki sistem pengudaraan tanah dan menambahkan

kesuburan tanah melalui

   tindakan bakteria baik yg terkandung dalam Plantbac

 

Chitosan:

a)Mempercepatkan pencambahan biji benih

b)Menambahkan sistem imuniti tanaman

c)Bertindak sebagai pertahanan daripada serangan serangga perosak

d)Meningkatkan tumbesaran tanaman dan menyihatkan tanaman

e)Meningkatkan pegeluaran hasil tanaman dan kualiti hasil tanaman

 

 

Kesimpulan:

Dengan perawatan Plantbac,akan mengekalkan kesuburan tanaman

dan mencegah daripada penyakit yg berpunca daripada tanah

Dengan penyemburan chitosan,dapat menambahkan imuniti tanaman

dan meningkatkan hasil tanaman

Calcium: Masalah Pembajaan dan Pengagihan

By عبدالرحمن on Friday, 27 January 2012 at 19:54 محمد

Calcium: Masalah Pembajaan dan Pengagihan

 

by Mohammad Abdul Rahman

27 Jan 2012 - PNSB

Kita sebagai pekebun berkonsepkan fertigasi menganggap bahawa

air baja yang sesuai dan seimbang dengan kadar bahan2 nutrients

akan menganggap bahawa pokok kita tumbuh subur tanpa

menunjukan sebarang kekurangan nutrients, amat baik sekali jika

andaian kita itu benar, tapi sesetengah unsur akan menunjukan

kekurangan juga walaupun pokok di beri pembajaan yang

mencukupi. Salah satu bahan unsur yang menjadi penyebab utama

ketidaksuburan pokok dan menjejaskan kualiti buah adalah Kalsium

( calcium), berlakunya ‘tip burnt’ dan rapuh pada pucuk, BER pada

buah dan juga rasa pahit terutama timun.

 

Kebanyakan kita tidak dapat memahami atau menilai keadaan pucuk

merapuh atau ‘dieback’ atau terbakar berwarna perang emas

berpunca dari kekurangan calcium kerana biasanya air baja kita

sudah ada calcium yang berlebih. Kadang2 kita menganggap bahawa

berlakunya keadaan pada pucuk adalah akibat serangga, panas

melampau atau pun  keadaan sekitar amat kering.

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[ ] August 21, 2015

 

Kebakaran atau tip burnt berlaku pada pucuk muda yang baharu

membentuk daun, tisu pucuk yang akan menampakan lecur berair

berwarna perang emas dan menjadi kehitaman dan mereput jika amat

serius. Keadaan lecur di sebabkan kebocoran pada sel daun dan

mengeluarkan cecair sap dan mengundang penyakit pathogen untuk

berkembang. Kadang2 kita juga terkeliru denagn kekurangan boron,

yang mana kelihatan agak sama.

 

Blossom end rot atau BER yang kerap berlaku pada buah cili dan

tomato yang seakan penyakit antraknos berpunca kurangnya calcium

dalam pokok serta buah, sel buah pecah dan mengeluarkan cecair di

sebabkan kekuatan dan ketahanan sel amat kurang,  buah melecur

mulanya  dan lekuk kedalam berwarna hitam dan kering , tangkai

buah tetap hijau, selalunya terjadi pada bahagian tengah ke hujung

buah. Manakala antraknos buah lecur lembik berair dan tangkai serta

kelopak kekuningan, di sebabkan oleh fungus bacterial.

 

Calcium terbentuk dan di gunakan oleh sel daun untuk perteguhkan

dan menstabilkan lapisan sel dan bertindak sebagai agen semen atau

gam untuk menghubungkan antara sel2 daun di kenali sebagai

calcium pectate, kekurangan calcium menjadikan penghubung gam

lemah dan tidak stabil dan sel berkecai...terjadilah BER atau tip

burnt.

 

Calcium adalah immobile atau tidak dapat di pindahkan dari satu

bahagian ke bahagian yang di perlukan seperti pucuk baru, dan perlu

di beri pembajaan Ca berterusan untuk pertumbuhan. Konsentarasi

calcium pada daun tua adalah tinggi berbanding pucuk muda, jadi

simtom amat ketara pada pucuk dahulu.

 

Calcium memainkan peranan untuk mengaktifkan enzimes,

mengimbangi aliran air dalam sel dan amat perlu untuk

perkembangan dan pembentukan sel baru dan tisu pembesaran.

Bertindak sebagai penampan atau buffer bila berlakunya kelebihan

unsur nutrient lain pada zone akar dan menjadikan salah satu

komponen dalam akar sebagai penyaring bahan berlebihan lain.

 

Simtom Tip burnt atau BER berpunca dari masalah pengagihan

pengangkutan calcium dalam pokok. Dalam pokok terdapat 2 jenis

tisu pengangkut, xylem dan phloem bertindak sebagai sistem

sirkulasi membekalkan mineral, carbohidrat, protein pada

keseluruhan pokok untuk pertumbuhan pembesaran.

 

Saluran xylem mengangkut air dan garam nutrient terlarut dari akar

ke atas dan di agihkan  pada daun2. Kehilangan air dari daun semasa

proses perspiration atau perkumuhan akan membentuk hisapan dan

air dari saluran2 xylem yang mengandungi unsur nutrient termasuk

calcium akan di bawa kedaun untuk proses fotosintesis.

 

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[ ] August 21, 2015

Apa2 faktor yang membuatkan kehilangan air dari daun ( aliran

angkutan xylem) akan mempengaruhi edaran calcium dalam pokok

bila mana air pembawa ion calcium mengalir ke daun untuk

menggantikan air yang hilang. Calcium merupakan immobile akan

mengalir secara perlahan jika transpiration amat kurang berlaku pada

buah dan juga pucuk baru yang kecil berbanding dengan daun besar

yang tua. Hal sedemikian akan menampakan dengan mudah simtom

kekurangan Ca yang senang berlaku pada buah dan pucuk. Dalam

keadaan berangin dan penyejukan serta kelembapan di bawah 90%,

daun amat aktif transpiration dan xylem menarik air dan ion calcium

denagn baik untuk di bawa pada daun dan di simpan.  

 

Untuk mengelakan buah dari terjadi BER, pembajaan Calcium amat

di titik beratkan semasa pembentukan buah yang masih hijau sebagai

langkah pertama pengawalan, kejadian BER dapat di hindarkan

dengan menggunakan foliar pada buah hijau dan daun  sekeliling

serta pucuk yang menampakan simtom kekurangan menggunakan

larutan  baja CaNO3 dengan kadar  0.2% atau 2.0gm/lit air. Memberi

foliar pada daun saja dan tidak pada buah tak memberi kesan pada

rawatan BER kerana Ca tak buleh berpindah kepada buah dari daun,

jadi direct spray pada buah amat perlu.

 

Dalam sistem hidroponik fertigasi, unsur baja calcium di dapati dari

calcium nitrate  (CaNO3) dan kuantitinya amat mencukupi mengikut

kehendak pokok. Jika terjadi kekurangan calcium pada pokok ianya

bukan di sebabkan kurangnay Ca dalam baja, tapi di pengaruhi oleh

faktor lain yang menghalang atau menyekat pengambilan Ca oleh

akar dan juga penghantaran dalam pokok.

 

Pengambilan atau serapan Ca oleh pokok berkurangan di sebabkan

berlakunya persaingan serapan oleh konsentrasi cations yang tinggi

dari potssium (kalium), magnesium atau ammonium yang

terkandung dalam air baja. Oleh kerana calcium bergerak dalam tisu

xylem, serapanya juga terhalang oleh kepanasan atau kesejukan

melampau dari zone akar dan juga bila keadaan media yang di

pengaruhi oleh konsentrasi garam yang tinggi, ( salt built up dan ec

baja tinggi) dan juga di sebabkan keadaan sekitaran yang amat

lembab terutama musim hujan.

 

Menggunakan air baja yang EC nya tinggi akan mengurangkan

serapan air dan Ca oleh akar pokok, berbeza dengan N dan K dimana

konsentarsinya pada daun akan tinggi jika EC tinggi. Merendahkan

sedikit EC air baja akan meningkatkan serapan air baja oleh akar dan

secara tak langsung bahan nutrient lain termasuk Ca akan di serap

dengan banyak dan baik untuk di agihkan pada tisu2 pembesaran

pokok.

 

Pemberian air baja pada ec rendah pada waktu malam meningkatkan

serapan Ca kerana xylem sap dapat membawa Ca kepada tisu2 yang

kurang aktif transpiration nya seperti kucupan pucuk dan juga buah

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[ ] August 21, 2015

dan putik buah baru. Kajian umum mendapati kebanyakan calcium

di bekalkan pada daun dan buahan amat banyak pada waktu malam

berbanding siang hari. Jadi amat berkesan jika di beri injeksi air baja

sekali atau dua pada waktu malam sekitar 9.00-10.00 pm. atau 2.00-

3.00am.

 

Untuk menghindarkan berlakunya tip burnt dan juga BER,

pembajaan Ca hendaklah  di beri secukupnya dan berterusan,

melaraskan EC (2.4-2.5) dan pH ( 5.8-6.2) dengan betul dan tidak

tinggi , memberi baja waktu malam, mengurangkan kelembapan

melampau ( sistem RPH elak hujan) dan mengurangkan pokok dari

stress air ( maintain kelembapan 30-40% min). Pembajaan dengan

biofertilizer yang mengandungi amino acid atau FAA amat

membantu membuka calcium ion channel dalam akar dan

meninggikan serapan calcium beribu kali ganda berbanding dengan

cara osmosis biasa.

PLANT GROW PROMOTING RHIZOBACTERIA ( PGPR ) -

Mohamad Abdul Rahman

By عبدالرحمن on Tuesday, 4 December 2012 at 10:11 محمد

MEMBUAT PGPR (PLANT GROW PROMOTING

RHIZOBACTERIA)

PGPR atau Plant Growth Promoting Rhizobakteri adalah sejenis

bacteria yang hidup di sekitar zone akar tanaman. Bacteria ini

hidupnya secara berkoloni menyelaputi akar tanaman dan memberi

kebaikan dari microbes. Bacteria atau microbes ini memberi

kebaikan untuk  proses fisiologi tanaman dan pertumbuhannya.

Fungsi PGPR bagi tanaman mampu mempercepatkan  pertumbuhan

dan fisiologi akar serta mampu mengurangi penyakit atau kerosakan

oleh serangga. Selain itu PGPR juga meningkatkan daya serapan

unsur  baja seperti phosphate, potash, sulfer, Fe dan juga Cu. PGPR

juga boleh menjanakan hormon tanaman, menambahkan microbes

spt bacteria dan fungus yang baik dan mengawal pathogen dan

penyakit tumbuhan.

 

Cara membuat PGPR :-

 BAHAN:

1. 100 gm akar buloh

2. 200 gm gula pasir,

3. 200gm gula merah

4. 200 gm belacan

5. 1 kg dedak halus ( boleh guna dedak ayam serbuk juga jika

tak ada dedak padi )

6. 10 lit air

7.  1 sudu makan bahan perisa “ajinomoto”/MSG,  kandungan

monosodium glutamate sebagai hormon perangsang

pertumbuhan dan mempercepat kan penghasilan giberellin.

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[ ] August 21, 2015

CARA MEMBUAT:

1. Rendam akar buloh dalam air bersih 1 lit tanpa klorin 2-4

hari

2. Rebus bahan no2 – no 6  sampai mendidih selama 20 minit

dalam air 10 lit

3. Setelah sejuk masukkan semua bahan kedalam tong bertutup

( tong air 20 lit) dan tutup rapat

4. Buka dan goncang2 sehari sekali

5. Satelah 15 hari PGPR siap digunakan

CARA MENGGUNAKAN:

1. Tapis PGPR

2. Campurkan  ( 1:15 ) 1 lit PGPR ke dalam air 15 lit ( 1 tong

racun )

3. Spray atau siram pada batas tanah atau media polybag 1-3

hari sebelum pindah tanam anak pokok.

4. Ulangi spray atau siram hujan setiap 15-20 hari sekali

 

Bahan yang tertinggal dalam tapisan masih boleh di recycle

denagn menambahkan air dan sedikit gula merah untuk

kegunaan kedua kalinya.

Semoga tuan2 mendapat manafaat dan penghasilan tanaman yang

baik

UNSUR BAJA FOLIAR- Mohammad abdul rahman

By عبدالرحمن on Wednesday, 28 November 2012 at 23:59 محمد

Foliar Nutrition

Foliar Nutrition of Plants

    It has been known for many years that plants are able to absorb

essential elements through their leaves.  The absorption takes place

through the stomata of the leaves and also through the epidermis. 

Movement of elements is usually faster through the stomata, but the

total absorption may be as great through the epidermis.  Plants are

also able to absorb nutrients through their bark.

 

    The following elements have been successfully use to supply

nutrients for plant growth by apply them as foliar sprays to the

leaves:

 

Primary Nutrients : Nitrogen ,Phosphorus, Potassium

Secondary Nutrients : Magnesium, Calcium, Sulfur

Micronutrients : Iron, Zinc, Boron, Copper, Molybdenum ,

Manganese, Chlorine

   One difficulty in using foliar sprays to supply essential elements to

crops is that translocation of the applied element may not be rapid

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[ ] August 21, 2015

enough for increasing crop yields.  With some plants this problem is

more difficult than with others.  For example, the relative mobility of

essential nutrients in bean plants when applied as a foliar spray in

order of decreasing mobility, was as follows:

 

Mobile : Potassium, Phosphorus, Chlorine, Nitrogen

Partially Mobile: Zinc, Copper, Manganese, Molybdenum,

Magnesium

Immobile : Boron, Calcium, Sulfur, Iron

 

    Nitrogen fertilizer compounds have been used for several years as

foliar sprays.  Sodium nitrate, ammonium sulfate, potassium nitrate,

and urea have all been used experimentally, but only urea gives

satisfactory results.  The other fertilizers cause the burning of leaves,

due partly to the high osmotic concentration of the spray solution.

    Urea has been successfully sprayed on apple trees, tomatoes,

celery, lima beans, potatoes, cantaloupes, cucumbers, and sugar

cane.  Amounts up to 15 pounds of urea per acre at one spraying

have been used with beneficial results on apple trees.  Higher

concentrations burn the leaves.  The usual concentration for apple

trees is five pounds of urea per 100 gallons of water.  This is

commonly mixed and applied with the regular spray materials at

weekly intervals early in the growing season.

 

    The application of urea fertilizer to leaves of plants has given

response approximately equal to that of fertilizer applied to the soil. 

The uptake of urea is faster when it is sprayed on the leaves, but it is

cheaper to apply it to the soil.

    Phosphorus is capable of being utilized by the plant when it is

sprayed on the leaves.  Although the practice is not common, there

are many good reasons for predicting that there may be an increase

in the foliar application of phosphorus.

 

    One reason is that in most soils only a small percentage of

phosphorus fertilizers is recovered by the plant (averaging about 20

percent for the first year); whereas, when phosphorus is sprayed on

the leaves, nearly all of it is absorbed.  In one experiment,

approximately three pounds of P2O5 sprayed on tomato leaves gave

a greater early growth than did 135 pounds of P2O5 applied to the

soil.  The yield of tomatoes, however, was 12 percent greater when

the 135 pounds of P2O5 was sprayed on the leaves.

    Potassium applications as foliar sprays have been made, using

potassium sulfate fertilizer.  Some leaf injury resulted, and the

conclusion was reached that soil applications are far more

satisfactory.

    Magnesium is now commonly applied to plant foliage as solutions

of magnesium sulfate (Epsom salts).  One reason for the popularity

of the practice is that soil applications of magnesium commonly take

three years to correct magnesium-deficiency symptoms of such

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[ ] August 21, 2015

perennials as apple trees, whereas foliar sprays are effective within a

few days after application.

 

A foliar application of a two per cent solution of MgSO4 to

tomatoes, oranges, and apples has relieved magnesium deficiency

and has increased crop yields.

    Calcium is seldom applied as a foliar spray because it can be

efficiently applied to the soil.  If CaCO3 is too slow in reaction, then

CaO or Ca(OH)2 can be applied to the soil. CaCl2 is primary method

of applying Ca to foliage.

    Sulfur sprayed on leaves is readily absorbed by the plants.  This

fact was demonstrated, however, in connection with the study of the

influence of certain sulfur sprays when used as a fungicide. 

Although there have been no reports of a sulfur deficiency being

relieved by sulfur sprays, the practice may become established

because it is physiologically sound.

    Iron has been sprayed on foliage since about 1916 to relieve

chlorosis.  The first of such research work was carried out with

chlorotic pineapples growing on highly alkaline soils in Hawaii. 

Periodic sprays of five percent ferrous sulfate are now common

practice on Hawaiian pineapple  plantations.  The biggest obstacle to

this practice is the fact that, even though the iron moves readily into

the leaves, it is translocated very slowly.  As a result, after spraying

with ferrous sulfate, chlorotic spots may still be in evidence in places

which did not receive some of the iron spray.  Iron chelates have also

been successfully used as a spray.

 

    On alkaline soils where iron chlorosis is common, applications of

iron compounds to the soil have not been very successful because the

iron is soon rendered insoluble.

 

    The leaves of chlorotic grain sorghum on calcareous soil in Tulare

County, California, were sprayed with 40 gallons per acre of three

percent ferrous sulfate solution about one week before heading, at a

cost for materials of 50 cents per acre.  The yield of grain sorghum

was increased from 540 pounds of grain on the untreated plot to

1,774 pounds on the treated plot, an increase of 222 percent.

 

    Applications on the soil of more than 3,000 pounds per acre of

ferrous sulfate were required to accomplish similar increases in

yields.

    Manganese.  While soil manganese becomes less available in

alkaline soils, many states in more humid regions of the country

often report manganese deficiencies in peat and muck soils and in

local areas of alkaline soils.  Manganese deficiencies are frequently

corrected by spray applications of manganese sulfate, usually five to

10 pounds per acre.  Manganese sulfate is also applied to the soil at

rates of from 20 to 150 pounds per acre.  Manganous oxide is also

used to correct manganese deficiencies.  In alkaline soils an acid-

95

[ ] August 21, 2015

forming material, usually fertilizer, is applied to prevent fixation of

the applied manganese.  NH4+ applied H+ released.

    Zinc is often sprayed on the leaves of apple and pear trees to

relieve "leaf rosetting," a symptom of zinc deficiency. 

Approximately 25 pounds of zinc sulfate in 100 gallons of water

(roughly a three per cent solution) applied to apple trees just before

the buds open has corrected zinc deficiency.  Zinc sulfide, zinc

oxide, and zinc carbonate have all been successfully used as sprays. 

Driving galvanized (zinc-coated) nails in trees also relieves zinc

deficiency.

    Boron, as boric acid or borax (sodium tetraborate), used as a foliar

spray has proved to be a successful method of application.  Internal

cork of apples has been controlled by spraying the foliage with eight

pounds of borax in 100 gallons of water.  As little as two pounds of

borax per 100 gallons of water has checked "cracked stem" of

celery.  Boron has been satisfactorily applied to the soil, either alone

or in mixed fertilizers.

    Copper deficiency has been controlled by spraying the leaves with

a mixture of eight pounds of CuSO4 plus eight pounds of Ca(OH)2,

in 100 gallons of water.  Without the calcium hydroxide, the copper

sulfate injures the foliage.  Copper oxide has also been used

successfully as a spray.

    Molybdenum, as sodium molybdate, 1 ounce in 100 gallons of

water, has eliminated deficiency symptoms in citrus trees. 

Somewhat like iron, however, molybdenum does not seem to be

readily translocated within the plant.  Spraying only the lower half of

a citrus tree that showed molybdenum deficiency did not cure the

deficiency symptoms on the upper half of the tree.

 

    In highly acid soils, molybdenum is sometimes fixed in an

unavailable form, thus causing deficiencies, particularly for

legumes.  The amount of molybdenum in soils and the amount

required by plants is very small.  In addition to sodium molybdate

soil application of 0.5 to two pounds per acre, a commercial seed-

coating preparation (Molygro) for some legumes, applied at about

two ounces per acre, is used to correct deficiencies.  Broadcast

applications are best mixed with limestone on very acid soils to

prevent fixation.

RACUN SERANGGA BUAT SENDIRI...AMAT MUDAH DAN

BERKESAN: detai kat sini

:http://www.abc.net.au/gardening/stories/s2281115.htm -

Mohmmad abdul Rahman

By عبدالرحمن on Tuesday, 27 November 2012 at 16:15 محمد

(VERSI BAHASA MELAYU KAT BAWAH ARTIKEL BI )

Horticultural oils are among the safest and most effective ways of

controlling a range of sap sucking and chewing pests in the garden.

These days there are two options - traditional white oil, which is

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[ ] August 21, 2015

based on a vegetable oil, and modern horticultural oils, which are

thinner and based on petroleum oil.

 

The lighter coloured, modern oils spread faster than the old

fashioned vegetable oil. This is important because it means that the

modern, less viscous, oil doesn’t clog leaf pores when the

temperature is over 30 degrees. So in hot weather the newer oil

won’t damage your plants.

 

The other difference is that the modern horticultural oils are based on

petroleum and are expensive to buy. White oil is cheap and better

still, you can make it yourself.

 

White oil recipe:

 

• Use two cups of vegetable oil (I’m an organic gardener, so I use

sunflower oil because there’s no chance that it could be genetically

modified) and half a cup of washing up liquid.

 

• Put those into a jar. Put the lid on and give it a good shake and

you’ve got concentrated white oil.

 

• Label it and store this in a cool, dry place and it should last about

three months. Remember to also label it with the dilution rate - two

dessert spoons per litre of water.( bersamaan 20ml/lit)

 

Gardeners have been using oils for about 200 years so it’s been

thoroughly road tested. Use these oils on broad leaved trees and

shrubs. Don’t use them on hairy or soft leaved plants like lettuce,

because it will burn the leaves. The best spraying action is to cover

both sides of the leaves and the bark and it’s best to spray in the cool

of the morning.

 

Horticultural oils will control aphids, scale, mealy bug and citrus leaf

miner as well as caterpillars. It works by blocking their breathing

pores and this suffocates the pest. There is no way that pests will

ever become resistant to white oil – so it’s good forever.

Information contained in this fact sheet is a summary of material

included in the program. If further information is required, please

contact your local nursery or garden centre.

Copyright Restrictions: This fact sheet is for private and domestic

information purposes only. It may not be copied, reproduced, sold or

used for any other purpose without the express permission of the

ABC.Alihbahasa oleh MAR :

Minyak Hortikultur adalah antara cara yang paling selamat dan

paling berkesan untuk mengawal pelbagai serangga penghisap sap

dan pemakan daun dan perosak tanaman di ladang.  Disini terdapat

dua pilihan - minyak putih tradisional, yang berasaskan minyak

sayur-sayuran, dan minyak moden hortikultur, yang cair ,nipis yang

berasaskan minyak petroleum yang lebih ringan dan merata dengan

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[ ] August 21, 2015

lebih cepat berbanding minyak sayuran tradisional. Ini adalah

penting kerana ia , kurang likat, minyak tidak menyumbat liang daun

atau stomata apabila suhu melebihi 30 darjah C. Jadi, dalam cuaca

panas minyak yang baru tidak akan merosakkan tumbuh-tumbuhan

anda.

Perbezaan lain adalah bahawa minyak hortikultur yang bersaskan

petroleum agak mahal untuk membeli. Sementara minyak putih

adalah murah dan lebih baik lagi, anda boleh membuatnya sendiri.

Minyak resipi Putih

• Gunakan dua cawan minyak sayuran , minyak jagung atau minyak

bunga matahari atau seangkatan dan ½ cawan sabun basuh pinggan

( palmolive, sunlight atau setara)

• Masukan dalam balang. Tutup tudung dan goncanglah supaya

membentuk emulsi  minyak putih pekat. Botol mineral 1 lit pun

buleh di gunakan untuk menggoncang.

• Label dan simpan di tempat yang sejuk, kering dan ia di gunakan

dalam masa  kira-kira tiga bulan. Tandakan label dengan kadar

pencairan - dua sudu pencuci mulut seliter air (bersamaan 20ml/lit).

Para petani sudah menggunakan cara ini sejak kira-kira 200 tahun

dahulu . Di gunakan minyak ini sebagai foliar semburan pada pokok

rene pokok renek berdaun. Jangan gunakan pada tumbuhan berbulu

atau berdaun lembut seperti salad, kerana ia akan membakar daun.

Tindakan semburan terbaik adalah untuk meratakan kedua-dua belah

daun dan batang ,  yang terbaik semburan waktu pagi.

Minyak Hortikultur baik untuk kawalan scales, aphids, mealy bug

(pepijat bertepung )dan ulat pelombong daun serta beluncas. Ia

berfungsi dengan menyekat liang pernafasan mereka dan dan

melemaskan serangga itu . Menggunakan minyak putih ini tidaka

akan menjadikan kekebalan pada serangga , jadi ianya boleh di

gunakan berterusan selama-lamanya.

FORMULA UNTUK SALAD, KAILAN, SAWI- Mohammad

Abdul Rahman

By عبدالرحمن on Thursday, 22 November 2012 at 22:40 محمد

LETTUCE

The formula below is a standard hydroponic lettuce formula using

standard hydroponic fertilizer salts. Some of these, such as iron

chelate and monopotassium phosphate, may need to be imported or

sourced from fertilizer suppliers. However, they prevent the growth

problems that could develop from the use of ammonium phosphate

and avoid the use of expensive magnesium nitrate.

Lettuce Hydroponic Nutrient Formulation (Grams of Fertilizer Salts

To Be Dissolved Into Two 100-Liter Stock Solution Tanks; When

Diluted 1:100, This Will Give an EC of 1.2, a TDS of 840, and a pH

of 5.9, Water Supply Permitting)

Note: This formula is for good quality, low mineral water sources

and does not take into account any minerals that may already be

present in the source water.

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[ ] August 21, 2015

 

Part A

Calcium nitrate 7,505.4

Potassium nitrate 1751

Iron chelate 500

 

Part B

Monopotassium phosphate 1,191.3

Magnesium sulfate 2,552.8

Manganese sulfate 80

Zinc sulfate 11.01

Boric acid 39

Copper sulfate 3.02

Ammonium molybdate 1

 

The Editor replies:

Here is the general lettuce nutrient formulation I have (to be added to

100 liters of stock solution):

Part A Calcium nitrate 7,549 grams (g)

Iron EDTA 260 g

Part B

Potassium nitrate 1,703 g

Monopotassium phosphate 1,198 g

Magnesium sulfate 2,571 g

Copper sulfate 2 g

Manganese sulfate 41.7 g

Zinc sulfate 2.6 g

Boric acid 25 g

Ammonium molybdate 1.02 g

When diluted 1:100, this formula gives a CF of 12 (EC 1.2 mS/cm)

and results in parts per million (ppm) levels of N=140.9, K=96.4,

P=25.2, Ca=151, Mg=25.3, S=33.3, Fe=2.5, Mn=1, Zn=0.06,

B=0.45, Cu=0.05, Mo=0.05.

More potassium should be provided during summer for red lettuce

varieties.

FORMULA BAJA FERTIGASI STRAWBERRY- Mohammad

Abdul Rahman

By عبدالرحمن on Thursday, 22 November 2012 at 20:07 محمد

Formula untuk strawberry.

Nutrient Solution Formula untuk Hydroponic Strawberries (berat

bahan  untuk di larutkan dalam  50  lit stock , dan kadar bancuhan

untuk dipakai 1:100, dan memberi EC 1.7 dan pH 5.80

 

Part A

Calcium nitrate 2.94 kg

Potassium nitrate 2.10 kg

Iron EDTA 240gm

 

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[ ] August 21, 2015

Part B

Monopotassium phosphate 1.60 kg

Magnesium sulfate 2.40 kg

Manganese sulfate 38gm

Zinc sulfate 5gm

Boric acid 18gm

Copper sulfate 2gm

Ammonium molybdate 0.5gm

Jika mau gunakan stok 100 lit, gandakan berat bahan tu

FORMULA BAJA UNTUK TIMUN...Oleh Mohammad Abdul

Rahman

By عبدالرحمن on Sunday, 14 October 2012 at 21:00 محمد

1. Untuk Pertumbuhan awal vegetative ) EC 1.2-2.4 pH 6.0-6.2

CaNO3 ( Calcium Nitrate ) 8.80 kg

 KNO3 ( Potassium Nitrate 5.80 kg

 KH2PO4 ( Monopotassium Phosphate ) 1.00 kg

 K2SO4 ( Potassium Sulfate ) 0.50 kg

 Mg SO4*7H2O : %Mg 9.80 or0.098 5.10 kg

% S 12.9 or 0.129

Diammonium phosphate 1.8 kg

 

Chelated Iron ( 13% Fe ) 462 gm

Boric acid ( H3BO3 ) 40.0 gm

Manganese Sulfate ( MnSO4 ) 55.0 gm atau

Manganous Chloride ( MnCl2 4H2O ) 58.0 gm

Zinc Sulfate ( ZnSo4 7H2O ) 7.66 gm

Cupric Chloride ( CuCl2 2H2O ) 1.86 gm

Molybdenum Trioxide ( Mo O3 ) 0.75 gm atau

ammonium molibdate 1.00 gm

 

Untuk Perkembangan pembungaan dan production )

EC 2.4 - 2.6 ) pH 5.8-6.0

 CaNO3 ( Calcium Nitrate ) 10.25 kg

 KNO3 ( Potassium Nitrate 3.50 kg

 KH2PO4 ( Monopotassium Phosphate ) 3.40 kg

 K2SO4 ( Potassium Sulfate ) 3.30 kg

 Mg SO4*7H2O : % Mg 9.80 or 0.098 8.10 kg

% S 12.9 or 0.129

NH4NO3 nil

 

Chelated Iron ( 13% Fe ) 462 gm

Boric acid ( H3BO3 ) 40.0 gm

Manganese Sulfate ( MnSO4 ) 55.0 gm atau

Manganous Chloride ( MnCl2 4H2O ) 58.0 gm

Zinc Sulfate ( ZnSo4 7H2O ) 7.66 gm

Cupric Chloride ( CuCl2 2H2O ) 1.86 gm

Molybdenum Trioxide ( MoO3 ) 0.75 gm atau

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[ ] August 21, 2015

ammonium molibdate 1.00 gm

Jika menggunakan bahan lain spt EDTA untuk micro, kira baliklah

berat di perlukanberdasarkan kandungan % bahan.

NATURAL FARMING With ORGANIC & BIOLOGICAL

TECHNOLOGY - PART 2

By Haris Versi Baru on Thursday, 11 October 2012 at 10:33

 NATURAL FARMING With ORGANIC & BIOLOGICAL

TECHNOLOGY - PART 2

 

      HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN SUGAR

 

      Materials: 

      Sugar cane juice or fresh coconut juice (tuba)

      Big cooking stainless steel basin

      Wooden mixing ladle

      Stove and fuel 

      Procedure:  

      Press fresh sugarcane to extract juice  - 08.0% sucrose content

      Or gather fresh coconut juice (tuba)     - 16.8% sucrose content

      Place in the cooking basin

      Boil to dehydrate

      Mix continuously until totally dry and dehydrated with wooden

ladle.

      Place the dehydrated brown sugar (moscovado) in clean dry

containers.

      Ready for storage and use. 

      Uses:  

      May be used for food, food preparation and processing

      Feed additive for poultry and livestock

      For bioorganic preparations and additive.   

HOW TO MAKE VIRGINE COCONUT OIL 

      Processing virgin coconut oil right in your own home and kitchen

is

      very easy and simple.

      Grit the meat of freshly opened mature coconut.

      Pour a little water and mush the greeted coconut meat.

      Press to extract the coconut milk.

      Let the milk stay overnight or for 10 to 12 hours.

      The water will settle down the container and the oil will float.

      Drain out the water.

      Heat the oil in stainless steel kettle in 45 to 70 degrees

temperature for 15 to 30 minutes to remove and evaporate remaining

water in the oil. Better heat oil in double kettle where the first has

water in direct contact with fire and the other with oil inside the

casserole with heated water.

      Place the virgin coconut oil in bottle and seal.

      Store in room temperature away from sunlight.

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Another way of preserving virgin oil is by freezing instead of

heating.

Virgin coconut oil is used for various purposes. It is used for

medication, beauty and body skin ointment, cooking oil, lubricant,

fuel, etc. It does not get rancid when the right procedure is done.  

 

 

 

TAKING CARE OF YOUR SOIL THE NATURAL WAYS 

      Several researches have found that declining crop yield is related

to the loss of soil quality. Soils are threatened by water and wind

erosion, salinisation, and nutrient depletion, chemical interference

that kills microbiological soil born organisms and other things. 

      Soil depletion is causing sever impact on agriculture like what is

now happening in the Philippines. We are just now waking up to the

growing magnitude of soil depletion in most agricultural lands using

conventional farming, heavily dependent on chemical fertilization,

herbal, pest and disease control. The Ecological Society of the

Philippines headed by its president Antonio M. Claparols is very

much concerned on the deteriorating soil condition of the country. 

      Global warming makes things worse. As the ground heat up,

organic matter decompose more rapidly, reducing soil fertility,

releasing carbon dioxide which increase the warming effects. High

priority for soil restoration through carbon sequestration or storing

carbon in the soil securely so that it is not easily re-emitted through

soil conservation and incorporation of organic fertilizers. 

      Composts are natural fertilizers that supply soils with vital plant

nutrients helping to retain water and air. It restores soil structure, soil

carbon anti-biotic activity. Compost or organic fertilizers improves

soil texture, helps to control weeds, pest and diseases. 

      The prices of commercial chemical fertilizers price are

skyrocketing, beyond the purchasing power of the marginal farmers.

Attention is now focused on teaching and encouraging farmers and

entrepreneurs to invest on the production of organic fertilizers.  

      Organic fertilizers can easily be made by farmers from readily

available materials such as plant leaves and residues, animal waste

and other biodegradable substances. They do not have to buy or get

credit to make their own fertilizer and soil conditioners. Soil fertility

and health can also be restored with resting the soil for a year or two,

green manure, incorporating crop residue with soil during land

preparation or cultivation, and planting of trees along farm boarders

and banks of waterways.  

      The Philippines is among the 17 most bio-diverse countries in the

world. Part of the Philippines treasure are the large forest trees which

are rapidly vanishing. Trees are contributing to the ecological

balance as they help clean the air and conserve water. One hectare of

forest is needed to supply the fresh nitrogen needed by 40 persons.  

      Trees and wild vegetation are not only needed in the countryside

and farming areas, but more so in communities and urban areas

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where population density is high. Urban gardens and soils can be

improved by growing trees and using organic compost fertilizers. 

 

 

 

 

USE OF ORGANIC COMPOST FERTILIZER

AND BIO MICRO INOCULANTS 

Organic compost fertilizer is the closest we can return to natural

farming. The emerging farming system is towards the use of organic

fertilizer in combination with chemical fertilizer. 

There are now available in the market several Pro-biotic like BYM

and Tricograma that helps hasten the breakdown and decomposition

of organic cellulous materials to convert them into organic fertilizer. 

Simple way of preparing organic compost: 

The old practice is the sandwich type where different organic

materials or waste are pilled layer after layer like plant residue +

animal waste + soil and repeat the process until reaching a meter

high. Keep it moist and insert a bamboo with ventilated holes to

aerate until the material decomposes. Then mix the material and keep

it moist until totally decomposed. Aerate and expose to sunlight

before applying as fertilizer. 

The new practice is chopping or hammer-milling the organic

materials then spraying pro-biotic to the mass, keep it moist and

cover with plastic sheet to avoid dehydration. Mix the mass at least

once a week. With sufficient digester (microorganism or pro-biotic)

it will take less than a month to convert organic materials into ready

to use fertilizer. 

Mixing a combination of different organic materials both plant and

animal source will insure a more complete nutrient content of the

organic fertilizer. Pro-biotic spray or inoculation of the compost will

present destructive and undesirable microorganisms to grow. The

odor becomes pleasant.   

      COMPOST 

      Composting, essentially a rapid self heating process by which

organic material is decomposed and stabilized, was practiced by

ancient Egyptians, Greeks and Romans and is even mentioned in

religious texts. During the past 20 years, this time honored practice

has developed into a robust waste-management technology that

generates valuable organic soil amendments. 

      Biological treatment technologies may be either aerobic or

anaerobic. Aerobic systems use oxygen, but anaerobic ones don’t.

Both may use heat to fuel the reactions that break down organic

matter in manure. In composting, heat is generated by microbes that

digest organic matter. After decomposition, it will be good to

sanitize the organic compound by drying or exposing it to sunlight

for a day or

two.                                                                                                         

                                                                                                                                                                          

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      “Nutrient stabilization in composted manure allows soil microbes

and plants to use the nutrients in a slow-release and beneficial

manner. Compost may even help reduce demand for nitrogen in

certain crops.” Says Patricia Miller of the Environmental Microbial

Safety Laboratory in Beltsville, Maryland

      Composting is one of several technologies used to treat animal

manure, sewage sludge, and other organic residuals, which may

contain pathogens or parasites of public health concern. In any

manure slurry system, solid can be composted. Liquids can be

further processed to stabilize nitrogen and phosphorus in soluble

forms compatible with current nutrient-management requirements.

      Soil structure is easy to improve with compost. Organic matter is

the most important source of plant nutrients contributing to the

fertility of the soil. Compost material sustains healthy plant growth

by providing food for both living microorganisms, speeding up their

multiplication and absorption of the roots. Organic matter ha also

dual role that helps water move through the soil and at the same time

improve the soil’s water holding capacity. Unlike depleted soils of

organic matter, soils rich in humus retain a good surface and do not

crust or clod after heavy rains. Aeration is good in humus rich soils

and this important factor means root growth is good. Organic matter

also acts as storage for nutrients, increases cat ion exchange capacity

and acts as a regulator for nutrients, so they are not all releases at one

time. 

 

 

 

HOW TO PREPARE YOUR OWN LACTO BASILLAI 

LACTO BASILLAI is one of the beneficial microorganisms called

pro-biotic. It helps in the breaking down of cellulose fibers and

converts organic materials into humus and fertilizer. Producing your

own stock of lacto bacilli can easily by done using the following

procedure: 

1. Use rice wash or finely grounded grain preferably brown rice

mix in water.

2. Place in a wide plastic basin and cover loosely to allow

ventilation.

3. Allow it to ferment for 7 days. Bacteria including lacto

bacilli in air will infect solution.

4. Strain liquid and place in bigger plastic container.

5. Add 10 parts milk (skim, powdered, condensed or fresh)

Milk is best feed for lacto bacilli will multiply rapidly and

overgrow other bacteria in solution. .

6. Cover loosely to allow ventilation and ferment for another

one week.

7. The flotsam consisting of fats, carbohydrate and protein

contain lacto bacilli.

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8. Scoop the flotsam and mix with food or feed materials. A

yellow colored liquid will form containing a great

concentration of lacto bacilli.

9. Store in refrigeration or room temperature.

10. Mix liquid in equal quantity of rough brown sugar,

moscovado or molasses.

11. Mix stock solution in 20 parts water. Use to is with compost

materials.

12. Dosage: Use 2-4 tbs. per gallon water and spray to plants.

 

 

 

 

HOW TO MAKE COMPOST 

      The sandwich method: 

 

1. Organic materials such as animal waste, plant waste and

topsoil are placed in layers one on top of the other until they

reach a high of 3 feet.

2. The material is watered moist and covered with coconut

leaves or plastic sheet in order that moisture will be retained.

3. Mix the compost pill after two weeks, moist and cover again.

4. Repeat mixing once a week, until the compost materials are

totally decompose with the appearance of soil.

5. Dry in direct sunlight to kill or eliminate unwanted

microorganisms such as fungus and bacteria.

6. The material is now ready for use or placed in sacks for

storage or shipment.

 

   Biological fast composting: 

1.  

1. Gather the organic material, chop or hammer mill

and mix thoroughly.

2. Water them moist with pro-biotic microorganism

(lactobacilli or trichoderma) mixed in the water.

1.  

1. Cover the compost pile with plastic sheet.

2. Mix the material every week.

3. It will usually take only 4 weeks to totally

decompose the material with the aid of the

microorganisms that help digest the cellulose

materials.

4. Sundry the decomposed organic material (fertilizer)

to kill unwanted microorganisms.

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[ ] August 21, 2015

5. The material is now ready for use or bagging for

storage or shipment.

 

   Field composting: 

1.  

1. After harvest and just before plowing and land

preparation, gather the organic materials, chop or

hammer mill.

2. Spread the materials evenly in the field. In case the

plant waste residues are in the field, then step a. will

not be necessary.

3. Spray the organic material in the field with pro-

biotic microorganism.

4. Plow and disk-harrow the field to mix the organic

material with the soil.

5. If possible do the above operation just before an

expected rain or irrigate the field after the plowing

of cultivation. This will allow the microorganism to

work fast, and multiply. In the process, digesting the

organic material into organic fertilizer or soil

amendment.

 

      Note that the pro-biotic organisms will continue working in the

soil, as long as favorable conditions like adequate soil moisture and

presence of organic materials. 

 

 

Steps in composting with wild sunflower: 

1. Look for a suitable area, partly or fully shaded.

2. Gather compost materials such as rice straw, animal manure,

and other farm waste.

3. Collect wild sunflower and chop the young stem and leaves

into small pieces.

4. Stick a bamboo with holes to serve as ventilator of the

compost pile.

5. Pile crops residue and farm waste in the following sequence:

rice straw, sunflower, manure, soil and repeat the layering.

Proportion: 2-3 parts fresh sunflower, 1 part rice straw, 2

parts manure and 1 part soil.

6. Water the pile until thoroughly wet.

7. Cover pile with leaves, sack or plastic sheet to minimize

evaporation.

8. Check the moisture every 2 days, and wet in case compost

dry up.

9. Check also the temperature. If it is warm, then

decomposition is taking place.

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[ ] August 21, 2015

10. After 3 to 4 weeks, check the compose pile and if it has turn

into soil humus physical form it is most likely ripe.

11. In case the compose will not immediately be used, air dry

before placing into sacks or in a shady dry place.

 

Farmers are encouraged to implement simple and inexpensive ways

of producing organic fertilizers through the use of indigenous

technology. They may adopt other methods of composting by using

other materials and plant waste available in their respective farms. 

VEMICOMPOSTING 

VERMICOMPOSTING is composting plant materials with worms.

The advantage of vermi-composting to that of the usual conventional

compost pile is that the process is faster and the resulting organic soil

is richer in certain nutrients provided by the earthworms themselves.

It is rich in Humic acid, which is a growth promoting. 

      African Night Crawler (Eudrilis eugeniae) earthworm are

incredible eaters and will eat and expel their own weight every day

when conditions are right. It takes 60 days or less for fresh organic

waste to be converted into compost fertilizer. Our native earthworm

may also be employed.  

Steps in Vermi-composting: 

1.  

1. Have a shed for the composting site to protect the

worms from direct sunlight and from torrential rains

to be able to do their work undisturbed. The worms

need a good living condition, dimly lit area to live in

with enough moisture.

2. Construct a storage area for digested compost before

it is screened and bagged.

3. Construct the compost bed for worms to digest with

concrete hollow blocks three blocks high with a

depth of 30-45 cm., 1 meter wide by 2 meters long

or longer. Be sure that the soil bed is well drained

under the composting bed. The worms will not

escape into the soil if there is available food to

digest.

4. Use a shredder or hammer mill to crush the organic

materials into small particles easy to decompose and

eaten by the earthworms. Good food: They need

25% nitrogen from legumes like madre de cacao and

ipil-ipil leaves, chicken droppings and cattle dung,

etc. and 75% carbon source like grasses, rice and

corn stalks, cogon and sugarcane tops. 

5. Mixing old animal manure and chicken droppings (2

months old) with shredded vegetable waste will

improve the nutrient content of the finish product.

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[ ] August 21, 2015

Do not use fresh manure for the ammonia produced

will give discomfort to the worms.

6. Water the bed from time to time to keep them moist

but not flooded so as not to drown the worms.

7. Fence off or screen in the beds to keep out chickens,

birds, rodents and other pest that will eat or bother

the worms in the wormery.

8. Mix a little ordinary soil to the fresh shredded

vegetable materials before introducing the worms.

9. Place one kilogram of worms per square meter for

fast composting. 10-20 pieces may do to start with

but it will take longer time to compost while the

worms breed to increase their number. A kilo of

worms are sold for P500 and they breed fast in two

months.

10. Inoculating and spraying the compost materials with

pro-biotic bacteria will help fast tract decomposition

and the worms to digest the compost in much shorter

time.

11. When the compost is digested, the worms become

less active. It is time to herd them to another

compartment with fresh food materials. As they

leave, the digested compost is ready for harvest and

transferred to the stocking or holding area for

screening, drying and packing.

12. Harvesting will be easier by allowing the bed with

completely digested compost material to dry up so

the worms will move to the next compartment with

moisture and fresh shredded vegetable food

materials.

13. Screen the material with ¼ inch mesh before

weighing and bagging for sale. A 50 kilo bag humus

is sold for P150 to P300 to gardeners. If you use it in

your own farm, there is no need of screening. (Note:

Commercial imported chemical fertilizer today

prices have gone over P600 per 50 kilo bag)

 

The worm’s feces are called vermin-casting or humus. Compost

takes 2-3 months to decompose, while shredded materials fed to

worms takes only 15-21 days.  

Advantages of Vermicomposting: 

1. Environment friendly. The use of organic fertilizer, vermin-

casting of humus is one, revives the soil fertility level and

brings back life to soil environment, improves soil texture

and improves water holding capacity.

2. Economical. Investment on vermicomposting is only about

P2.00 per kilo while commercial chemical fertilizer cost P8-

15 per kilo.

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3. Higher Crop Yield. Humus have shown its potency in

inducing higher crop yield for a longer period. Vermi-casting

humus is found to be more effective compared to ordinary

compost and chemical fertilizers.

4. Market Potential is Very Big. Organically grown food crops

are increasing in market demand. Organic fertilizer has

likewise increase in use as imported commercial fertilizer

have been increasing its prices.

5. No imported inputs required. Farmers can make their own

organic fertilizer from farm waste materials. This means no

dependence on imports and oil price fluctuations.

6. Healthful. Organic farming is considered as healthful way of

growing food crops.

7. Lesser risk. Producing your own fertilizer will make you

unaffected by exchange rates and fluctuation changes in the

prices of other commodities. There is less or no risk at all

producing your own fertilizer and even selling excess

requirement of your own farm.

8. Undemanding laborers. The worms themselves them selves

are the workers converting farm waste materials into organic

plant food nutrients.

9. Big savings. Producing your own fertilizer is a big savings

and cost cutting for the farmers.

10. Income-earner. This technology can help farmers earn more

from their farm waste

 

MAGGOT COMPOSTING 

Instead of using earthworm, a simple natural process has been

discovered in fast composting. A mixture of sawdust and chicken or

quail droppings are placed in a compost pile covered with shed. The

maggots eat up the cellulose in a few weeks instead of several

months. To prevent the maggots to complete its cycle to adult flies,

chickens are allowed to scratch and peak the growing maggots, a

source of animal protein. Spraying or drenching the compost pile

with pro-biotic microorganisms (beneficial bacteria and fungi) will

help hasten decomposition and prevent foul odor.        

      SLUDGE FERTILIZER

 

      Liquid sewage sludge being disposed as communal waste contain

essential elements needed by crops, making it a potential organic

fertilizer and soil conditioner for sugarcane farms, corn fields, rice

lands and even fruit orchards and vegetable gardens. 

      In a research conducted by Luzon Agricultural Research and

Extension Center (LAREC) of the Sugar Regulatory Administration

(SRA) in cooperation with Manila Water Company, Inc., the use of

liquid sewage sludge for agricultural purposes was assessed to

determine its effects on the growth and yield of sugarcane. The study

was conducted at LAREC R&D Farm at Floridablanca, Pampanga.  

      It was confirmed the application of liquid sewage sludge in the

barren sandy lahar deposits of Floridablanca, Pampanga the soil

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became richer and sustain healthy and productive sugar cane,

compared with untreated field.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

COMPOSTING CROP RESIDUE IN THE FIELD 

      Rice and corn are among the traditional crops grown by Filipino

farmers. As the usual practice is removing the debris and burn them

to clear the land and cultivate for next planting. Tones of organic

materials are wasted and lost. 

      Organic farmers spread rice straw and corn cubs back to the field

immediately after harvest. They are sprayed with beneficial

microorganisms or pro-biotic or bacteria and plowed under. In 4

weeks, they are decomposed and the field is ready for land

preparation for new planting. 

      This practice is also being started with big pineapple and banana

plantations in Mindanao. Some sugarcane planters found the benefit

of composting cane residue in the field instead of the usual practice

of burning after harvest then cultivating and fertilizing. Field

composting of crop residue help retain and improve soil fertility, at

the start reduces the use of chemical fertilizer to the time that no

more synthetic fertilizer is needed. 

      Coconut trees and other fruit trees have lots of leaves, bracts,

twigs, flowers and fruits that fall to the grown. When these materials

are allowed to decompose beneath the trees, they turn into humus

and fertilizer to the trees. Unfortunately, because of clean culture,

they are removed and burned. Teaching the farmers to return the

crop residue to the soil from where they came from will both enrich

the soil and sustain productivity of the trees without relying solely on

chemical or synthetic fertilizers. 

 

 

GREEN MANURING 

      Green manuring is the is the planting of seasonal crops usually

legumes like beans and plowing them under at their tender age

during flowering and early fruiting when they are rich in nutrients.

Plowing under weeds and grasses, allowing them to decompose is

also green manuring. Spraying them with pro-biotic will hasten their

decomposition. These practices have long been done by farmers’

century back, until commercial chemical fertilizers have been

introduced to the market. 

 

 

COVER CROPPING 

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      Cover cropping is the growing of low crawling plants usually

leguminous vines like centrocema pubisence and kudsu to protect the

soil surface from water erosion, prevent the growth of noxious weeds

and help increase soil fertility. These are grown beneath fruit trees

and taller crops.  

 

 

 

INDIGENOUS POTTING MATERIALS 

      Garden soils have been the usual potting materials for gardeners.

However there are different Potting mix and indigenous materials

that gardeners and nursery operators may use. Here are some of the

suggestions offered to readers by Anthony Gaw of Aim Trading

Corporation, Calihan, San Pedro City, Laguna with Telex (049) 800-

1572: 

 

A mixture of fertile garden or topsoil decomposed organic materials

and fine river sand at 1:1:1 ratio.

Rice hull charcoal is half burned rice hull. It contains a high level of

carbon needed by plants for normal growth. It makes the mixed

medium looses and easier for root development. It helps retain

fertilizer and releases to plants in a longer time. Rice hull charcoal is

mixed in 1:4 ratios with other potting materials. It is good for

seedling trays, potted plants, vegetable pots and herbs in pots.

Washed coco peat comes from the husk of coconut. The coconut

hush is shredded and soaked in water for several days and washed

with fresh clean water. It has a good water holding capacity. It is

mixed with other materials at 1:1 ratio. Very good for seedling trays,

vegetable plots, potted plants and fruit bearing trees.

Fermented Bagasse and garden soil at 1:4 ratios Bagasse is

sugarcane pulp. Decomposed bagasse is rich in humates providing

plants with essential trace elements. It is suitable for fast growing

vegetables like peachy, mustard and lettuce.

Pumice Stones are small volcanic rocks with other materials at 1:5

ratios. Pumice stones prevent panning or the compacting of the

medium due to strong watering. They are good for seedling trays,

potted flowering plants, and orchid community pots.

Granulated charcoal comes from coconut shell. It is a good material

for drainage that prevents excessive moisture that damaged the roots.

It is a source of carbon a plant nutrient needed in maturing. A layer

or two is placed at the bottom of the pot before potting materials are

place into the pot.

Powdered charcoal. The coconut shell or wooden charcoal is

pulverized into powder. It helps absorb foul odor of decomposing

organic materials. It helps beneficial bacteria hasten decomposing

process. Spread at leas an inch thick on compost pills or

decomposing materials.

Short coconut fiber from coconut husk is separated through

decortications. It is a good mulching material for sensitive plants. 1

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to 2 layers is place on top of soil or partly mixed with soil to prevent

erosion.

Granulated Zeolite are chipped from boulders and used as absorbent

material. Fertilizers and plant nutrients absorbed by seolite are

released to the plant roots slowly and continually for a longer period

of time. It controls the growth of molds and fungus, especially in

nitrogen rich medium. 

Cubed coconut husk The husks are sterilized and then chopped to

produce uniform sized cubes, It has a good water holding capacity

and ideal for aerial plants tike anthuriums, bromeliads, dendrobiums,

and other high value aerial plants.

 

      SOIL CONDITIONERS 

      There are many kinds of soil conditioners, depending on the

different soil conditions and deficiencies. Progressive farmers should

know them and how to use them properly to make their soil rich and

highly productive as the years go by. Among them are: 

 

Agricultural lime, to correct very acid soils and brings the pH level

to near pH-7, which is neutral and suitable to most plant growth and

availability of plant nutrients for root absorption.

Organic fertilizers, to both improve the soil texture and increase its

fertility.

Chemical fertilizers, to supply the nutrient deficiency of the soil and

meet the nutrient requirement of the crops grown.

Organic composts are decomposed or partly decompose or plain

organic materials place or incorporated into the soil to improve its

texture and later through the action of microorganisms are fully

digested and converted into soil nutrients that are readily absorbed

by the plant roots.

Probiotics or Microbes are beneficial bacteria and microorganisms

that helps digest and decompose organic materials and convert them

into soil nutrients made available to root absorption. There are now a

lot of available preparations of these microorganisms sold in the

market. They are usually mixed in water and sprayed into the soil or

organic compost to help hasten decomposition and fight the bad or

undesirable microorganisms in the soil. Probiotics can help reduce

the use of chemical fertilizer and help improve the texture of the soil.

 

      MICROORGANISMS ENHANCES CROP PRODUCTIVITY

      (As reported by Bengie P. Gibe, S&T Media Service)  

      Microorganisms, also known as microbes, are microscopic

organisms like bacteria, protozoa, algae, fungus and virus. They are

found in soil, water and atmosphere, and inextricably intermingled in

the environment. There are bad and good organisms. Some of them

can enhance crop productivity. 

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      The National Institute of Molecular Biology and Biotechnology

(BIOTECH) of the University of the Philippines Los Banos (UPLB)

produced two, Biological Nitrogen Fixers (BNF): Bio-N and Nitro

Plus. 

      Bio-N is solid inoculants in powdered form that contains any of

the two important strains of bacteria isolated from the roots of talahib

grass that can convert the nitrogen from the air into ammonia. It can

substitute 30-50% of the nitrogen requirement of rice and corn.  

      Bio-N increases the yield of rice and corn by as much as 35%

compared with unfertilized treatments, maintains the natural soil

properties and fertility, and makes plants healthy and green even in

drought and in the presence of pests.  

      Nitro Plus is legume inoculants, which can substitute for nitrogen

chemical fertilizer at a much cheaper cost. This is a bacterium

called rhizobia, which are specific for legumes such as soybeans,

peanut, mungbeans, cowpea and pole sitao. 

      The bacteria reside inside the nodules of leguminous plants

where they can fix nitrogen directly from the air. Nitro Plus can

replace 30-50% of the nitrogen requirement of the crop. 

      Mycorrhiza is a symbiotic association between the roots of plant

and fungus. The association provides many benefits to plants. It

increases the absorption of nutrients like phosphorous and water,

serves as a biological control agent against infection, improves soil

properties, increase the tolerance of the crop to environmental

stresses (drought, diseases, mineral imbalances). 

      BIOTECH has come up with two Mycorrhiza products:

Micogroe and Mycovam. 

      Mycogroe is a soil based bio-fertilizers tablet form that promotes

survival and growth of forest species like eucalyptus, pines, agoho

and dipterocarps. The tablet is inoculated into tree seedlings during

their nursery stage. Some 60-80% of the fertilizer requirements of

the trees in the fields are replaced by using this microb inoculant. 

      Mycovam on the other hand, is in powdered form, soil inoculant

effective for agricultural crops like rice, corn potatoes, eggplant, fruit

trees and forest trees.  

      It is also added during the nursery phase of seedling or

inoculating seeds just immediately before planting. It can replace

fertilizer requirement by as much as 60 to 80% nitrogen. 

      Bioorganic microorganisms can decompose agricultural residues

and convert into bioorganic fertilizer, which enhances the growth of

plants. 

      BIOTECH has likewise produced an organic fertilizer technology

that uses two microorganisms:

      Trichoderma harzianum or compost fungus activator (CFA),

brand BIO-QUICK.

      The other is Azotobacter sp., free-living nitrogen fixing bacteria,

brand BIO-FIX.

      BIO-QUICK enhances the process of decomposition by reducing

the composting period from 5-6 months to only 3-4 weeks, after

which the resulting compost is inoculated with BIO-FIX. Inoculation

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of one week produces nitrogen-enriched compost that can be applied

to field crops, vegetables and fruit trees. 

      These materials are available at BIOTECH, UP, Los Banos,

Laguna at very reasonable price. Reservations and orders have to be

made at least one month before pickup or need.   

       MULCHING 

      Mulching is the covering of the soil surface to slow down soil

moisture evaporation or conserve soil moisture, prevent growth of

weeds and keep the soil soft and friable. In the process, beneficial

microorganisms digesting cellulose are protected from the sun and

continue their work of converting organic materials in the soil into

organic fertilizer. 

      There are different methods of mulching:

 

Covering soil with cut grasses, weeds, straw, sawdust, rice hull or

other vegetative materials that eventually decomposes and mix with

the soil to add to its humus or organic content.

Covering soil surface with plastic sheet, usually black with silver

surface.

Cultivating or breaking soil surface before summer to break moisture

evaporation.

New technology of mulching is the use of greenhouses or covering

the plants with nets to both reduce sunlight intensity and break the

force of raindrops. This is coupled with the use of ultra violet ray

plastic transparent roofing. These practices are the emerging

conventional technologies that help farmers grow high value

commercial crops in compact and limited areas.

 

      The higher the organic content of the soil particles, the more

moisture holding capacity it has. There are jells from seaweed when

incorporated with the soil improves its water holding capacity and

releases moisture slowly to the roots. This is one advantage in using

humus and decomposed organic fertilizers. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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ISSUES AND FACTS ON ORGANIC FERTILIZERS

 

ISSUES

FACTS

Organic materials after undergoing decomposition, especially when

applied in large quantities, could cause groundwater pollution.

Inorganic chemical fertilizers are more pollutants to groundwater

even in smaller quantity than organic materials.

Plant do not use directly the nutrient found in organic materials since

this has to first undergo mineralization.

This is true to all types of fertilizers and plant food nutrients. Plants

absorb them in the simplest mineral ion forms.

The amount of essential plant nutrients in organic materials are very

low compared with synthetic chemical fertilizers.

This is true, that is why bigger volume of organic materials is applied

to the soil. However organic fertilizers carrying the 17 nutrients

needed by plants while chemical fertilizer may only carry 2 to 5

nutrient elements.

Organic fertilizer releases the plant food nutrients within a few days

slowly and last at a longer stretch of time that takes years

Chemical fertilizers on the other hand may have immediate and fast

release of nutrients and is dissipated in only 3to 4 months.

Organic materials are claimed to improve physical properties of soil

but this could only be true in aerobic soil condition,

This claim is not entirely true as irrigated lands where organic

fertilizers have been incorporated during land preparation show

outstandingly better crop growth and yield.

Soil organic matter will not increase significantly in just one or two

years of applying organic materials.

This may be true if the quantity of organic fertilizer applied is

minimal, however, periodic application will be improving soil

capacity of sustaining increasing crop productivity as the years go

by.

Organic fertilizer is not the sole factor in improving the quality of the

food product such as increased anti-oxidant content.

Yes there are mineral soil conditioners that will help enhance your

soil with organic fertilizer to improve food crop quality.

Using purely organic fertilizers/materials will not make your crop

productive as when chemical fertilizers are used solely.

This is not true. Organically grown fruits and vegetables without

chemical fertilizers have been producing commercially well.

Organic fertilizers/materials incorporated in the soil improves the

soil texture, nutrient content and feeds microorganisms and keep the

soil alive.

This is one big benefit in using organic materials. The heavy use of

chemical fertilizer have the tendency to make the soil acidic and kills

microorganisms and life forms in the soil making it barren.

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FARMERS’S EXPERIENCES, OBSERVATIONS AND

PRACTICES WORTH SHARING AND EMULATING 

      In the September 2003 issue of Agriculture Magazine, we read

the experience of a mango grower who turned to natural organic

farming after experiencing big losses due to the high cost of

chemical pesticides. He is Col. Virgilio Ecarma of Batangas with

5,000 bearing trees. 

      Here is what Col. Ecarma did. On his 2000 trees he stopped

using chemical pesticides and replaced them with his own

concoction of organic preparations. His organic concoction did not

only control pest and diseases, but also invigorated the trees.  The

materials he used are neem tree leaves, garlic, vinegar, coconut

water, gin (alcohol), molasses, trash fish, rice brand and effective

microorganism (Pro-biotic). 

      He prepared his concoction in three 100 litters plastic drums. In

the first drum he filled it 1/3 with neem leaves, added 5 kilos of

molasses, 10 kilos of crushed garlic, 24 bottles of gin (alcohol), 1

gallon of vinegar and filled the drum with water, then covered.

Allowed it to ferment for 15 days, opening the cover to relish

methane gas accumulating. 

      The second drum was filled half with trash fish, 20 kilos of

molasses and filled the drum with water. Cover and allowed to

ferment for 15 days. 

      The third drum was filled wit 20 kilos of molasses and 2 litters of

pro-biotic (Effective Microorganism), 5 kilos of rice brand and

coconut water to fill the drum. Cover and allowed to stay for 15

days. 

      After 15 days, ½ litter of liquid was taken from each drum and

mixed to 100 litters of water and sprayed on the mango trees on a

weekly interval. 

      The result, fruit flies and mango hoppers were driven away. The

2000 trees sprayed with the organic preparation had a very striking

contrast with the 3000 trees not treated. The prayed trees were very

fruitful, and the fruits were unblemished by fruit fly or anthracnose;

while the 3000 trees untreated were attacked by hoppers and fruit

flies and were unproductive. Col. Ecarma also observed the treated

trees were much healthier. He surmised that the fish emulsion with

Probiotics supplied nitrogen amino acid essential for plant growth.

 

      The organic preparations can also be used to other plants like

ampalaya, patola, guava, macopa, papaya, caimito, banana,

balimbing, siniguelas, pechay and other fruit bearing plants and

vegetables.      

      -o-o-o-   

      Organic vegetable growers, Jef and Lydia van Haute bought a

2000 sq. m. land in Balubad Dos, Silang Cavite where they built a

greenhouse and grew organic vegetables, free from toxic chemical

pesticides. They use organic fertilizer. 

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      When insect pest come into the greenhouse, they spray the plants

with concoction of pepper. Overall, they grow disease free and insect

free healthy vegetables. 

      They follow a system of crop rotation. They have classified their

vegetables into the Cabbage group, Foliage group, Fruit Vegetable

group, Root Crop group and the Legumes group. 

      The different groups have their own peculiar pests and diseases,

explains Jet. To avoid pest and disease problems, they rotate the

different groups. For instance, legumes are planted where tomato and

eggplants were planted previously. Pechay and lettuce on the other

hand may be grown where carrots were planted before, and so on. 

      Another technique in avoiding pest and diseases is to intercrop

plants that repel insect pests such as marigold. Besides repelling

insects, its roots also secrets a substance that kills nematodes in the

soil.   

      In cases where the vegetables are still infested, the couple, spray

them with organic pesticide like Basilus thoringensis (Bt)

commercially prepared in powdered form and mixed with water for

application to plants.

ORGANIC MANGO

   There is now a growing market demand for organically grown

fruits and food crops especially in Europe, and slowly influencing

the world markets. PREDA (Peoples recovery, Empowerment and

Development Assistance Foundation, Inc.) is working on the

commercial production of Certified Organic dried mango. PREDA

agriculturists are working with mango farmers all over Central

Luzon on the first phase of “going organic´ training. We have to take

note however, with the chemical pollution of the soil, air and water

worldwide, we cannot say that crops are grown 100% organic. What

we can do is produce fruits and food crops without toxic chemical

residue when harvested or consumed.

BOTANICAL PESTICIDES for MANGO

 

   Studies on botanical plants with, pesticidal properties against

mango leafhoppers were done by Dr. Hernani Golez and Nenita F.

Zamora of Guimaras Island’s National Mango Research Center

(NMRC). Field test of different crud extracts showed that tobacco

plus detergent and combined extracts of kakawati, tubli and ripe sili

plus detergent (KTRD) were effective against mango hoppers.

Furthermore, KTRD as bio-spray was also effective in the control of

mealybugs attacking the flowers of mango. Incidence of borer

damage was also minimized by spray application of different extracts

(tubli, tobacco, lagundi, atis and makabuhay).  

   A comparative study is conducted by mango growers assisted by

the Agricultural Training Institute (ATI), at Tukawal, Alabel,

Sarangani Province. The study consist of  comparing practices of

1. Mango Grower Contractor practice

2. Chemical Company Recommendations

3. Integrated Pest Management (IPM)

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4. Natural Organic and Biological practice

5. With Control trees

   Initial observation shows the Chemical Company

recommendations and the Natural Organic and Biological practices

are competing in excellence. The study shows that growing chemical

free organic mango is commercially attainable.

POST HARVEST TREATMENT

There are several post harvest treatment being employed:

 

1. Plain warm water washing with 1% salt solution or detergent

and chlorine. Dry fruits after washing as re-infection occur

when fruits are moist.

 

1. Hot Water Treatment (HWT) where fruits are dipped in 52-

55 degrees water for 10 minutes. A new innovation dip in 59

to 60 degrees water for 30 seconds to one minute. The

temperature range should be strictly maintained and

monitored to avoid scalding if it rises, and if it drops, may

not control the pest and diseases of the fruits. Air-dry

immediately after dipping. Adding chlorine to the water

helps control diseases

 

      The author designed and fabricated a simple HWT tank made out

of one sheet stainless steel plate heated by LPG. Dimension is 20 x

30 inches and 18 inches high. It has a capacity of 2 crates of 20 kilos

per crate per loading. The unit can easily be transported to the site of

harvest. It cost P8,000 to P10,000 per complete unit with stand, gas

stove burner, LPG tank with hose, regulator and thermometer.  A

bigger stainless steel tank with 6 crates capacity cost P20,000.00

fabricated by a machine shop in Gen. Santos City. 

1. Extended Hot Water Treatment (EHWT) – Dipping the fruit

in 46 - 48 degrees Centigrade for 90 minutes. This treatment

is practiced in Mexico for mango exported to the USA.

 

1. Vapor Heat Treatment (VHT) where fruits are subjected to

heated vapor until the inner flesh of the fruit reaches 46

degrees for 10 minutes. This treatment is required for

mangoes exported to Japan, and Korea. It is non toxic and

non chemical disinfectant.

 

1. Chemical Treatment – Using fungicide to control fruit rot.

Fungicides are dissolved in water where the fruits are

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dipped. Benomyl (500-1000 ppm) and other suitable

fungicides are used.

2. Fumigation with Ethylene dibromide (EDB) at the rate of 16

grams per cubic meter for 2 hours at 25oC is done for

mangoes exported to Australia and New Zealand. This will

control and destroy the insect eggs in the fruit. The

Australian government has now banned the use of EDB. The

Philippine government is negotiating to replace ir with VHT

to control fruit fly. Irradiation seems to be more favored by

Australia.

 

1. Irradiation – This is a new introduction to access fruits and

food preparation to USA and other countries requiring such

quarantine procedure.

 

      These treatments tend to control fruit born diseases like

Anthracnose and Stem End Rot as well as kill insect eggs like Fruit

Fly. Be sure to fully dry the fruits after treatment, before packing

because wet and moist fruits are easily re-infected by fungal rot

diseases.

STEPS IN HOT WATER TREATMENT

 

1. Heat water up to 55*C and main the temperature range at 52-

55*C during operations. A 59-60 degrees for fast treatment.

 

1. Place mango in perforated plastic crate or basket that fits

into the hot water tank to maximize the number of fruits that

can be treated in one dipping. In the absence of plastic crate,

any other suitable containers that will not cause bruises on

the fruits may be used.  This will avoid direct contact of the

fruits with the hot metal bottom of the tank that can cause

heat injuries or scalding.

 

1. Dip the mango into the hot water submerged for 5 to 10

minutes, checking the temperature is between 52-55*C. A

faster procedure is 30 to 60 seconds dipping in 59 to 60

degrees water. It is advisable to move the crates now and

then to equalize the heat and help remove the dirt from the

fruits.

 

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1. Use electric fan to hasten drying. When fully dried, sort

them and pack carefully in fruit boxes or crates for storage or

shipment to the market.

 

1. Some buyers do not want chemically treated fruits, so HWT

or VHT are done without using fungicide of chemicals.

 

      The above operations should be done within 4 to 8 hours after

harvest. It is even preferable for small quantity harvest to do the

whole operation right in the field or farm. Treat fruits within 4 hour

of picking while latex are still wet. 

      Harvested mangoes should never be exposed to direct sunlight,

wind, rain and other contaminants, either in the farm or during

transport to the processing plant and packaging site. If this cannot be

avoided, thorough washing and hot water treatment should be done

and completely dried and packed avoiding re-contamination.

 

ORGANIC FARMERS 

      Mr. Jose (Batchoy) and his life partner Mrs. Pamela (Pam)

Henares of Sitio Balugo, Bry. Alangilan, Bacolod City are practicing

organic farming. They grow black pepper and lettuce organically.

They do not want to contaminate the drinking water of the city which

comes from their farm area.

      Besides the vegetables and flowers, raise 50,000 heads of broiler

from where they source their organic fertilizer, chicken droppings,

3,000 sq. meters rice field, calamansi, pineapple, fruit trees and

different variety of vegetables. 

      Mr. Ramon Uy, owner of RU Foundry & Machine Shop Corp. in

Bacolod City is a new convert of organic farming. He was requested

by Mr. Jose ”Bachoy” Henares to repaid his imported shredder.

Because of the encounter, RU Foundry is now manufacturing his

own version of shredders for groups of farmers and local government

units converting their organic waste in public markets into organic

fertilizers.  Mr. Uy realized that agriculture and industry have to

progress together to support one another. He himself is now engage

in vermi-composting and organic gardening. He also set up a model

organic farm at Bago City with a partner to showcase how integrated

organic gardening. It can be adopted by small farmers and earn more.

Mr. Ramon Uy is willing to teach farmers and LGU sponsored

groups and learn how they can produce their own fertilizer without

relying so much on imported chemical fertilizers whose price is

going up beyond the purchasing power of most Filipino farmers.   

      Mr. Uy observed that using chemical fertilizers may be cost

effective at first, in the long run the cost increases because the soil

gets depleted (as friendly microorganisms are eliminated) so more

and more fertilizer will be needed. On the other hand, the application

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of organic fertilizer may progress slowly, but the cost of production

will decrease and soil productivity increases as the years go by.  

      Lina Adoracion, a retired teacher at Malungon, Sarangani

Province grow organic rice, banana and other crops. She produces

superior quality rice seeds. Their organic rice sell more than rice

grown conventionally with chemical fertilizer and pesticide spray.

She finds the farm environment healthy as she makes more money

selling organic crops. 

      Rue R. Ramas, Manager and proprietress of SEED WORLD in

Gen. Santos City grows organic vegetable in here demo vegetable

garden. She introduces the use of compost fertilizer and pro-biotic to

counter pathogens. Rue have been conducting trainings and seminars

on organic farming in cooperation with LGUs, NGOs and interested

farmer groups. 

      Mr. Pat Acosta, a Horticulturist and Businessman has been

growing strawberry for the last 12 years. He now grow different

variety of lettuce in his 3,000 sq. meter greenhouse farm at Lamtang,

La Trinidad, Benguet. Pat is one of the pioneering organic farming

practitioners. He has a shredder and compost pile, designed to turn

shredded plant residue into organic humus. He uses this material in

growing his vegetables. He uses probiotics and enzymes to speed up

raw materials. Pat says, he work his land the natural way as his

Master, the Lord God wishes.

ORGANIC BANANA GROWING

 

      Carlos Impang, a Latundan Banana farmer at Talaytay, Publacion

Malungon, Sarangani Provice has this to share. His farm is 3 hectares

planted to Latundan Banana at a distance of 3 x 6 meters. He

practices clean culture, with the weeds and banana leaves left to

decompose in between hills. He uses organic mulch and organic

waste as his fertilizer. He does not spray chemicals or bagging of

bunches as done with Lacatan and Cavendish banana growing. He

prunes off diseased leaves and brack to prevent spread of fungal

diseases.

      It takes 10 t0 12 months from planting to flowering. Fruit

emergence takes 14 to 16 days, and 2.5 months from flower

emergence to fruit maturity and harvest.

He maintains 2 to 3 suckers per hill at different stages of growth.

Excess suckers are removed to concentrate nutrient to fruit

development.  Provide good drainage and aeration to keep the plants

dry with maximum sunlight exposure. Soil moisture is maintained

with the mulching. He does not plow to avoid damaging roots that

will serve as entry point of diseases.

      The average production is 10 to 35 kilos per bunch. He markets

at the local Public Market of Malungon at P10.00 per kilo whole sale

to retailers. He has a weekly harvest of 100 to 130 kilos from ¾

hectare. He is expanding his area to 6 hectares. He observed that his

yield increases during the rainy season and drops during summer

months.

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      Replant after 3 to 5 years with 1 year rest or planted to legume

crops. It is a good practice to rest the land for one year and allow the

growth of natural vegetation and microorganisms that help

decompose and turn plant residue and convert them to organic

fertilizer and readily available plant nutrients. 

 

 

ORGANIC FISH CULTURE 

      Inland fish culture has been originally practiced in lakes and

ponds the natural way. They just building the pond and allow fish to

live, tribe and grow. As new technology are introduced, many

fishpond operators were feeding the fish with ready mixed and

milled commercial fish feeds. They also use chemical fertilizers to

induce growth of algae fish food. Aerators are used to help introduce

oxygen into the waters as heavy pollution depletes the air in water.  

      Loven Vilches of Sibunag, Guimaras started using 1 ton organic

fertilizer per hectare of fishpond instead of chemical fertilizer. They

decompose the organic fertilizer (chicken droppings) with pro-biotic

or beneficial microorganism. It takes 3 weeks from treatment of

bacteria before the organic fertilizer is applied on the pond. After a

few days the pond is filled with water and side dressed with liquid

algal booster. His harvest increased by 25%. He uses fingerlings

caught from the wild and limits fry population so as not to over stock

the pond. The biological fish culture technology was introduced by

Aidine Galvan of Growbio Farming System of Bacolod City. 

      Bangus is harvested in 2.5 months instead of the usual 3 months.

The fish size are 4 pieces to a kilo. After harvest, there is rich algae

supply in the pond, that there was no need to add fish feed. There is

no need for another month pond preparation for the next cropping.

15 days is enough. They add more pro-biotic bacteria for enzymes to

continue the production of fish food. The dead algae, fish litter and

other organic waste in the pond are converted into nutrients by the

enzymes and become fish food again. It is recycling waste.   

HERBAL PLANTS

 

      Plants were created for animals. While we also use them for plant

nutrition and protection, they are more used as food and medication

to keep man and animals healthy productive and have a long life.

Here is one. (A bonus to our readers) 

      HYDROCELLA ASISTICA or CENTELLA

Common name – Gotu Kola, Payong-payong, Takip-kuhol

It is referred to as Indian Ginseng. Another variety is Koto Kola.

“Two leaves a day keeps sickness and old age away”

Herbalist calls Gotu Kola as the finest herbal tunic.

The leaves appear to act as brain food. 2-3 leaves a day eaten raw

strengthen worn out body tissues and the brain to a remarkable

degree. 

 

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1. It prevents Brain fatigue and nervous breakdown. Two to

three leaves a day will keep old age away provided that the

body is exposed to the sun for a time being for each day.

 

 

1. It cures the nervous and mental problems, heart problems,

age spots, and thyroid stimulant.

 

 

1. It improves skin and relieves skin problems, leprosy,

tuberculosis, and venereal diseases.

 

 

1. It assists in healing depressions, impotence, and menopausal

problems.

 

 

1. It also serves as an aphrodisiac.

 

   The Indians use the plant as a diuretic to remove excess fluid from

the body and stimulate stimulants to the kidney and bladder as a

blood purifier. 

Gotu kola has also been used as cancer treatment, and herb used by

Jason Winters as told in his story in his inspiring book “KILLING

CANCER” that is usually available in health and food shop.  

      Because Gotu Kola (Hydrocella asistica) is an Asian herb, it is

not mentioned in European herbals, as they do not grow naturally

there.  

      It was renowned Chinese herbalist PROF. LI CHANG YUN,

who lived to the age of 256 years as a user of that herb that awoke

the Western World as to its value. He was born on 1677 and in 1933

the New York Times announced the death of the remarkable oriental

whose life span had reach over two and a half-century. The Chinese

government officially recorded his age. At 260 years of age Prof.

Yun still gave courses of lectures (Its lecture lasting 3 hours) on

longevity at the Chinese University. Those who saw him declared

that he did not appear older than a man of 72 did. He stood erect and

strong and had his own natural hair and teeth. 

      After Li Chung”s death, the French government has done

extensive studies. They found out that there is unknown vitamin that

they called Vitamin Y for the youth vitamin because it was found to

have a beneficial effect on the brain and endocrine glands. 

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      Another French Bio-Chemist Jules Lepino who undertook

extensive researches of the plant and found out that it had a rare tonic

properties that had marked energizing effect on the nerves and brain

cells to keep them functioning well.  

      Many people who took Gotu Kola daily tell how they no longer

feel brain fatigue. Their memory is strengthened and a feeling of

mental and physical well being and energy had been experienced. It

is considered as brain food. 

      The lady who took the herbal for six weeks said that she did not

feel fatigue despite heavy schedule and she was more relax and her

arthritic pain gone. For years she had not been able to take the ring

off her finger because of arthritis. But after taking the herb for

several weeks, she was able to remove her ring again. 

      Recently a lady from Brisbane came to pick up her friend who

has been sick and also troubled with high blood pressure. She started

taking the herb. In her next checkup, the doctor took her pressure

three times as he could not believe that her blood pressure for ten

years normalized due to her taking Gotu Kola daily with in two

weeks.  

      Goto kola (Hydrocella asistica) can be eaten straight from the

plant or added to salad or chopped as a last minute garnish or meal

like parsley. It has a slight bitter flavor. The leaves can be used as

fresh or died for iced fruit juice sweetened with honey.  

      But do not over eat. It may result to headache, dizziness, or too

much energy and sleeplessness at bedtime. 

      Gotu kola is a rich source of chlorophyll, Vitamins A, B, C, D, K

and particularly minerals and magnesium. The plant is easy to grow

and adapts in most soils.  

      A 95 years old lady in wheel chair at the General Santos City

Home for the Aged has now left her wheel chair after

eating Hydrocella asistica for two months. She was suffering from

sever Arthritis with high blood and diabetes. Now she can walk and

move around with a cane. Soon she says, even the cane may no

longer be needed as she feels progressively getting stronger and

active. Other old folks in the home for the aged also say their health

and strength are improving as they daily eat fresh Hydrocella asistica

leaves. They claim that three (3) leaves a day is enough. Too many

intakes cause headaches to some. It tastes pleasantly bitter when

chewed fine and juicy. 

      The plant is a soft tender crawling vine with roots and a leaf at

every node. Hydrocella asistica leaves are shaped like umbrella with

al long pistil. They grow well on moist soil partly shaded areas. It is

fast growing, ideal to replace noxious weeds between fruit trees in

orchard farms. It appears to help enrich the soil as green manure

plant.  

      Planting materials are now available in tray pot.

      Contact Marietta H. Rivera  at 30 Lapu Lapu St., General Santos

City.

      Tel  (083) 301-0117 

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=================================================

========================================= 

      There are more Natural and Organic and Biological Farming

systems that have not yet been included in this manuscript. This

technology we have just presented are sufficient for beginners,

farmers and enthusiasts to start on the road on natural farming and

producing safe and healthful food crops. We suggest that our readers

embark on your own research, study, trials and readings to learn

more and be a part of a new movement of environmental and

ecology friendly farming.  

      The new movement hopes to bring back the birds of the air, frogs

and reptiles on the land, and fishes of the waters and streams that

disappear because of the unrestricted use of toxic chemicals in

agriculture. The lost bio ecological balance and diversity of nature

will be back with the rich fertile soils that can sustain crop

production and renew the face of the earth nearer to its primal

origin. 

Let us study and learn natural laws for they are God’s laws that will

help us farm the natural ways. In the process, we will be producing

safe, healthful food while protecting the environment, sustaining

balance ecosystem and preserving bio-diversity in our farms. Good

luck and happy productive Natural Farming.   

      ACKNOWLEGEMENT 

      The lifetime works, research, and studies of Pedro D.

Sangatanan, BSA, MSc. And Ronel L. Sangatanan, BSA, MAgr.

They have been an inspiration in promoting organic farming to the

Filipino farmers, and help produce safe and healthful organically

grown food at lower cost and self-sustaining natural farming

system.   

      Mr. Zac B. Sarian, Editor of Agriculture Monthly Magazine, who

has a wide source of information on agricultural technology, and has

been unselfish in sharing them to help fast tract the development of

several Philippine agricultural industries and ventures.

 

      Miss Lina Adoracion a retired teacher now a full time farmers

adopting the Masikap way of natural and organic farming at her

Malungon farms. She produces organically grown rice and fruits. 

      Ms. Rue R. Ramas, proprietor of Seed World and currently busy

educating and conducting training’s on organic farming with the use

of pro-biotic. Her demo-vegetable crops are organically grown.

SEED WORLD, V.G. Rivera Farm, Nat. Hwy. Lagao. General

Santos City. Telex. 083-302-0444, Tel. 083-302-0456 Cell: 0917-

951-5364) 

 

     Mr. Antonio “Toto” Marin III, Pathologist and practicing farmer.

He is an advocate of organic and biotechnology who makes his own

researches and studies which he shares with farmers in seminars and

training. Cell No. 0918-329-2033. 

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[ ] August 21, 2015

      To the farmers who encourage this writer to continue improving

and promoting this manuscript to help and guide them in returning to

natural farming. 

      The Department of Trade and Industry (DTI) Region 12 Who

facilitated the early printing and reproduction of this manuscript, and

conducted special forum to launch the handbook on Natural Farming

on October 21, 2004 at Koronadal City.  

      Government and none government agencies and educational

institution supporting this trust and development of natural farming

to include: DA-ATI, FPA, DTI, DOST, GENSAFCO, MINFRUIT,

GEM, MSU-GSC, USM-KABACAN, UDP. 

 

Tanah Yang Subur

By عبدالرحمن on Friday, 15 June 2012 at 10:18 محمد

Question: Is there anything I can do to loosen up the clay soil in my

front lawn?  When it rains, it has the consistency of pottery clay, but

when it stops raining, it dries out quickly. I have been in this house

for seven years and aerated once. Any suggestions?

Answer: All of the organic amendments directly or indirectly help

loosen and soften the soil. The key to friable, productive soil is

abundant life in the soil. When the soil is healthy by being rich with

biological activity, it will not erode or compact during rains, it will

hold moisture at just the right level - thus cutting water costs, and it

will create excellent crop production. Healthy soil contains

significant microbiotic life. The microbes create organic matter that

helps build the glue in the soil that creates the texture that allows

rain and irrigation to soak in, oxygen to breathe in and carbon

dioxide to breathe out. 

 

 

Use this thought model. Before choosing a product to use on your

property ask this: if I purchase and use this product, will it help or

hurt the life in the soil? When the beneficial bacteria, fungi,

protozoa, insects, earthworms and others are healthy, growing, and

reproducing, the soil's chemistry, biology and structure will be soft,

crumbly and productive.

 

Best for Soil Health

  Compost and organic fertilizers

Rock minerals - lava, granite

   greensand, zeolite, gypsum, etc.

Sugars – molasses, cornmeal, etc.

 Mulch covering all bare soil

 Infrequent deep irrigation when needed.

 

 

Worst for Soil Health

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[ ] August 21, 2015

 High-nitrogen, synthetic fertilizers

Toxic pesticide

  Bare soil

  Excessive tilling (rotor)

Foot and vehicle traffic

Overwatering and frequent light watering 

Nutrients

By Izam Ijam on Monday, 23 May 2011 at 23:35

Primary Nutrients: Nitrogen (N) N > 10ppm Pre-plant N generates

vigorous seedling growth, which ensures a 

well-branched plant by the first fruit set. Pre-plant N is not needed if

a soil test shows the soil has 20ppm nitrate or more  Broadcast 20-

30lbsN/ac before discing of N is needed, otherwise, band N

(2-5lbs/ac) 3-4 inches below the seed. Apply a  steady supply of N to

the plant during first set to produce greater yields. While plants

develop first fruits, analyze plant  tissue samples to keep nitrate

concentration in the plant stem and petiole between 7000-8000ppm.

High N rates may  depress total yields, delaying crop maturity and

decrease the proportion of red pods. 

 

 

Symptoms of Nitrogen DeficiencySlow growth; stuntingYellow-

green color (chlorosis)"Firing" of tips and 

margins of leaves beginning with more mature leaves. hPhosphorus

(P) N > 30ppm Helps young seedling grow, 

especially when soil warms in spring. Not needed if levels of soil P

are between medium and medium-low. Add 50-100lbs  P2O5/ac

before discing of levels are lower. Alternatively, band 30lbs P2O5/ac

3-4 inches below the seed. P increases  total yield and increases the

proportion of red pods. Important for good root development and

fruit production. 

Symptoms of Phosphorus DeficiencySlow growth; stunting.Purplish

coloration on foliage of some plants.Dark 

green coloration with tips of leaves dying.Delayed maturityPoor fruit

or seed development. 

 

 

Potassium (K) N > 150ppm Encourages root growth and increases

plant resistance to disease. Increases size 

and quality of fruit and vegetables and increases winter hardiness. It

is mobile in the plant Fertilizer form is K2O 

Symptoms of Potassium DeficiencyTip and margin "burn" starting

on more mature leaves.Weak stalks, plants 

lodge easily.Small fruits or shriveled seed.Slow growth. Secondary

Nutrients: Calcium (Ca) A 

 

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[ ] August 21, 2015

 

structural nutrient, it is an essential part in all walls and membranes

and must be present for the formation of new cells.

 

 -Non-mobile in plant tissue Symptoms of Calcium Deficiency "Tip

burn" of young leaves-celery, lettuce, cabbage.  Death of growing

points (terminal buds). Root tips also affected. Abnormal dark green

appearance of foliage. 

Premature shedding of blossoms and buds. Weakened stems. Water-

soaked, discolored areas on fruitsblossom-

end rot of peppers. 

 

Magnesium (Mg) Essential for photosynthesis. Serves as an activator

for many plant enzymes required in growth 

process.

 -Mobile within the plant and can be readily translocated from older

to younger tissue. Symptoms of Magnesium 

Deficiency Interveinal chlorosis in older leaves. Curling of leaves

upward along margins. 

 

 

Sulfur (S) A constituent of three amino acids (cystine, methionine,

cysteine), therefore essential for protein synthesis. 

 

Symptoms of Sulfur Deficiency Young leaves light green to

yellowish color. Small and spindly plants. Retarded 

 

 

 

 

 

 

growth rate and delayed maturity. Micronutrients: Even though they

used by plants in very small amounts, they 

are just as essential for plant growth as the larger amounts of primary

and secondary nutrients. Care must be exercised  in the use of

micronutrients, since the difference between deficient and toxic

levels if often small. Micronutrients should  not be applied as a

ÒshotgunÓ application to cover possible deficiencies. They should

be applied only when the need has  been demonstrated. Zinc (Zn) An

essential constituent of several important enzyme systems. Controls

the synthesis  of indoleacetic acid (IAA), an important plant growth

regulator. Symptoms of Zinc Deficiency Decrease in stem 

length and a rosetteing of terminal leaves. Reduced fruit bud

formation. Mottled leaves (interveinal chlorosis). 

Iron (Fe) Required for the formation of chlorophyll in plant cells.

Serves as an activator for biochemical processes 

such as respiration, photosynthesis, and symbiotic nitrogen fixation.

Symptoms of Iron Deficiency Interveinal 

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[ ] August 21, 2015

chlorosis of young leaves. Veins remain green except in severe

cases. 

Manganese (Mn) Serves as an activator for enzymes in growth

processes. Assist Fe in chlorophyll formation. High 

Mn concentration may induce Fe deficiency. Symptoms of

Manganese Deficiency Interveinal chlorosis of young 

leaves. Gradation of pale green coloration with darker color next to

veins. No sharp distinction between veins and  interveinal areas as

with Fe deficiency. 

 

Copper (Cu) An activator of several enzymes. May play a role in

vitamin A production. A deficiency interferes with  protein synthesis.

Symptoms of Copper Deficiency Stunted growth. Poor pigmentation.

Wilting and 

 

eventual death of leaf tips. 

 

Boron (B) Functions in plants in differentiation of meristem cells.

With B deficiency, cells may continue to divide, but  structural

components are not differentiated. Also, apparently regulates

metabolism of carbohydrates in plants. Once  assimilated, B is not

remobilized in plants, and a continuous supply is necessary at all

growing points. Deficiency is first  found in the youngest tissue of

the plant. Symptoms of Boron Deficiency Death of terminal growth,

causing lateral  buds to develop and producing a ÒwitchesÕ-broomÓ

effect. Thickened, curled, wilted, and chlorotic leaves. Reduced 

flowering or improper pollination. 

Molybdenum (Mo) Required by plants for utilization of nitrogen.

Plants cannot transform nitrate nitrogen into amino  acids with Mo.

Symptoms of Molybdenum Deficiency Stunting and lack of vigor.

Marginal scorching and 

cupping or rolling of leaves.Chlorine (Cl) Required in photosynthetic

reactions in plants. Deficiency is very rare due to  its universal

presence in nature. Symptoms of Chlorine Deficiency Wilting

followed by chlorosis. Excessive 

branching of lateral roots. Bronzing of leaves. Chlorosis and

necrosis. 

 

129