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A R T | C U L T U R E | E N T E R T A I N M E N T | J U N E 2 4 , 2 0 1 1

The Buffalo Roam

In Santa Ana

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Fito Páez Hits San

José This Weekend

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Parque La Libertad

Mural Unites All Ages

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et Down With

ownward Dog

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INSIDE

Meg YamamotoTimes Staff

Palms swaying in the warm, Caribbeanbreeze. Clear, turquoise waters lappingon golden sand. Toucans, iguanas,

wler monkeys and sloths peeking fromtreetops. This postcard from the tropics

mes to vivid life on the beaches of Costaa’s southern Caribbean coast.Some of the most beautiful beaches of ta Rica’s nearly 1,300 kilometers of coast-

can be found strung along the shoreween the towns of Puerto Viejo and Man-illo. Depending on the beach, visitors canm, sunbathe, surf or snorkel the reefs,take refuge from the noonday heat in the

de of palm and almond trees.The Caribbean vibe, culture and cuisineke the region unique in the country.u’ll find no megaresorts here, with mostels consisting of only a few rooms or

ngalows. Also unique is the weather; theibbean doesn’t follow the rainy-or-dry-son pattern of the rest of the country, andtors should be prepared for rain anytime.e best weather of the year is usually intember and October – the height of the

ny season in most other parts of Costaa – when clear blue skies and calm seaske the region a haven from the torrentialns falling elsewhere in the country.The town of Puerto Viejo, where most

vices are centered, abuts Playa Negra, ack-sand beach with gentle surf whereal kids can nearly always be spottedashing about. But the best beaches lietheast of town, along the 13-kilometertch between Puerto Viejo and Manzanil-The picturesque, flat coastal road makesaccess easy, but don’t miss the experience

beach hopping by bicycle. You can rent aycle in town for about $5 a day, and get-g around on pedal power allows you to seere details, smell the flowers and exchangeves and smiles with the locals.

cles Beach Breakance from Puerto Viejo: 2 km

ess: Off the coastal road, or via a footpath from town

d for: Surfing, swimming when currents allowProximity to town and surf action makeone of the most popular beaches in the

on. The wide expanse of sand ensuresnever crowded. Swimmers should use

tion: Beach Break is known for powerfulcurrents that claim lives every year. For-ately, this is one of the few beaches in thentry with a lifeguard program, paid for by 

al businesses. A colored-flag system warns

of dangerous currents and indicates where itis safe or unsafe to swim. The beach is rightoff the road, the first one you see headingsoutheast from town. A pleasant, tree-shadedtrail leads from town to the beach (about a15-minute walk). Robberies, though uncom-mon, have been reported along the trail, sostay alert and try not to walk alone.

Cocles SouthDistance from Puerto Viejo: 2 to 4 km

Access: Off the coastal road, or along the beach from

Beach BreakGood for: Surfing, swimming when currents allow,

long walks or jogging

Cocles beach extends southeast another 2km from Beach Break, luring visitors to walkor run the sandy expanse and making it easy to find a secluded stretch to yourself. Note:Lifeguards do not patrol past Beach Break,and the currents can be dangerous. Shadecan be difficult to find on this stretch.

Playa ChiquitaDistance from Puerto Viejo: 6 km

Access: Footpath access across the road from Playa

Chiquita Riding StablesGood for: Swimming, snorkeling

As its name implies, this beach is small,but charming. Small coves beg swimmers totake a dip in the clear waters. The reef closeoffshore serves as an effective wave breaker,

and offers the opportunity to go exploringwith mask and tube. The beach’s diminutivesize can sometimes make it feel crowdedwhen others are present, but if you luck outand find yourself alone … paradise.

Punta UvaDistance from Puerto Viejo: 8 km

Access: Turn left off the coastal road at the “Punta

Uva” sign for the beach before the point; turn off at the

“Arrecife” sign for the beach after the pointGood for: Swimming, snorkeling, kayaking, hiking trail

to viewpoint

The two Punta Uva beaches, dividthe promontory of Punta Uva, vie fodistinction of best beaches in the coun

The western Punta Uva is a scene o“Blue Lagoon,” with calm, turquoise wbacked by the wall of tropical grethat swathes the promontory. A thatroof restaurant offers food and drinkkayaks can be rented to paddle aroun

point and take in the arch at the tip opromontory. A short trail traverses the between the two beaches, allowing hikwalk over the arch to a viewpoint offa spectacular 180-degree sea vista. In seas, intrepid swimmers can enter thefrom the east and swim through – but wout for sea urchin spines, and never ustimate the current.

The eastern Punta Uva is known fclear waters and calm surf. The whitebottom makes the waters a beautiful

Call of the Caribbean: Head to the Beach

Personal Paradise: Playa Chiquita, between Puerto Viejo and Manzanillo on the southern Caribbean coast.

  Meg Yamamoto | Tic

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lue, fringed by abundant reef for snorkel-Just a few steps from the beach, Arrecifeel and restaurant ( www.arrecifepuntaa.net) offers ice-cold beer and good food,well as snorkel and kayak rentals. Lodgingbeachfront cabinas and camping are alsoilable here. Hammocks strung betweenpalms in front of the restaurant offer themate shady napping spots.

nzanilloance from Puerto Viejo: 13 kmess: Off the coastal road, which ends at Manzanillod for: Swimming, snorkeling, diving, kayaking,access to Gandoca-Manzanillo National Wildlifege, Maxi’s restaurantThe coastal road ends at Manzanillo, atbeachfront Maxi’s restaurant, famed for

Caribbean cuisine. Colorfully paintedchas, or motorboats, dot the shoreline innt of the restaurant, but there is plenty open beach for swimming in the calmf. The reef off Manzanillo stretches formeters and is great for snorkeling anding. Aquamor (2759-9012, 8835-6041), asteps from Maxi’s, rents snorkel gear andaks and offers off-the-beach and boate trips. Wade across the estuary east of xi’s to access the trail through the Gando-Manzanillo National Wildlife Refuge forther promontory viewpoint and a stringecluded reef-fringed beaches.n

ng ThereFrom San José, take Route 32 to the Caribbean port

of Limón. Turn right (south) at the Texaco station and

w signs to Puerto Viejo. The drive is approximatelyhours. Buses to Puerto Viejo leave San José from

Caribbean bus terminal at Calle Central, Avenida 11nsportes Mepe, 2257-8129, ₡4,545/$9, 4.5 hours),a.m., 10 a.m., noon, 2 p.m. and 4 p.m. The noon busnues to Manzanillo.Reasonably priced accommodations abound in townalong the coastal road to Manzanillo. Just a fewmmendations: in Puerto Viejo, Hotel Banana Azulya Negra, www.bananaazul.com), Cashew Hillle Lodge (www.cashewhilllodge.co.cr), Escape

beño (www.escapecaribeno.com); in Cocles, Laa de Papito (www.lacostadepapito.com), Cari-Hotel (www.cariblue.com), Finca Chica (www.

achica.com), Le Caméléon Hotel (www.lecamenhotel.com); in Playa Chiquita, Playa Chiquitage (www.playachiquitalodge.com ), Shawand-

Lodge (www.shawandhalodge.com); in PuntaTree House Lodge (www.costaricatreehouse.m), Casa Viva (www.puntauva.net), Korrigan Lodge

(www.korriganlodge.com); in Manzanillo, Almondsand Corals Lodge (www.almondsandcorals.com),

El Colibrí Lodge (www.elcolibrilodge.com), CongoBongo (www.congo-bongo.com).Visitors will find great international cuisine at a

variety of restaurants in the area, but be sure to try thelocal Caribbean fare, such as coconut-infused rice and

beans, lobster, whole red snapper or chicken in Carib-bean sauce, and rondón , a seafood soup made withcoconut milk. Recommendations: in Puerto Viejo, SodaTamara, Soda Miss Sam, Soda Lidia’s Place; in Cocles,Soda Johanna’s; in Punta Uva, Selvyn’s; and in Manza-nillo, the famous Maxi’s.

Beaches Beckon on Southern Caribbean Coas

| WEEKEND | THE  TICO  TIMES – June 24, 2011

Exploring Costa Rica

Roy Arguedas Arias | Tico Times

 Beaches of the Southern Caribbean: Clockwise from top left, Cocles Beach

Break, a popular surf beach two kilo-meters southeast of Puerto Viejo; east 

Punta Uva, great for swimming, snor-

keling and lazing; west Punta Uva,view from the trail to the promontory;

arch at the tip of Punta Uva; local kids

 play on the beach at Manzanillo, at theend of the coastal road.

Photos by Meg Yamamoto | Tico Times 

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Southern Caribbean Beaches

Cocles

PlayaChiquita

Punta Uva

Gandoca-ManzanilloNational Wildlife Refuge

Caribbean Sea

To Limón

SanJosé

EnlargedArea

Secondary road

COSTA RICA

PuertoViejo

Manzanillo

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