body care (rev 2015)

BODY CARE

Merupakan sediaan kosmetika yang ditujukan untuk perawatan badan. Biasanya yang dimasukkan dalam kategori ini antara lain adalah- Pembersih badan (body wash, soap, shower gel, lulur, body scrub, dll- Pelembab bdan (body lotion, body cream, body gel, dll)- Pewangi (body cologne, body spray, dll )- Masker- Bedak- Deodorant/antiperspirant- dll

Berdasarkan type sediaannya, dibagi atas- Emulsi (body lotion, body cream) - Gel (body gel, cologne gel)- Larutan (body cologne, body wash)- Powder (body talk, antibody odour, masker- Emulsi-suspensi (Lulur kocok)- Aerosol (body spray)

BODY LOTION

Merupakan sediaan kosmetik berbentuk emulsi yang ditujukan untuk perawatan kulit tubuh

(lengan dan kaki). Biasanya body lotion lebih ditujukan untuk menjaga kelembaban kulit dan

mencegah dari sengatan matahari (SPF). Selain itu body lotion juga harus mempunyai nilai estetika

misalnya memberikan aroma yang menyenangkan. Seiring dengan kebutuhan pasar maka sekarang body lotion juga ditujukan untuk

whitening

Syarat-syarat umum-Mempunyai daya melembabkan yang bagus-Meninggalkan kesan lembut dikulit-Tidak menyebabkan iriitasi pada kulit atau aman digunakan

Syarat-syarat estetika-Tidak memberikan kesan lengket-Aroma dan warna yang sesuai dan menarik-Spreading bagus saat diaplikasi

Syarat formulasi-Stabil dalam penyimpanan dan saat dijual-Sebaiknya mempunyai pH sekitar 4-7

BODY LOTIONSeperti halnya pelembab pada wajah, body lotion merupakan pelembabpada badan. Biasanya diaplikasikan pada tangan dan kaki. Rata-rata bodylotion mempunyai viskositas yang tidak begitu tinggi, sediaan masihmengalir jika dituangkan

Komposisi

Utama:

Phase dalam (Internal)/ Phase discontinuous/Dispersed phase

Phase luar (External)/Phase Continuous

Zat pengemulsi (emulsifier)

Tambahan:

Viscosity modifier (zat pengatur kekentalan)

Pengawet

Pewarna

Perfume

Zat aktif

BODY LOTION

BODY LOTION

Biasanya untuk body lotion mempunyai tipe emulsi O/W jadi:1. Phase luar adalah air (jumlah terbanyak). Biasanya kedalam phase

air ini ditambahkan pengental seperti turunan selulosa (carbopol, dll) dan humectant seperti gliserin atau propilen glikol. Jikamenggunakan pengawet yang larut dalam air maka pengawet iniditambahkan ke phase air

2. Phase dalam adalah minyak (biasanya menggunakan minyak nabatiseperti minyak zaitun, minyak kedelai, dll). Untuk memberikansensasi yang enak pada saat diaplikasi biasanya ditambahakansilikon seperti dimetichone atau cyclometicone.

3. Emulsifier harus dipilih yang cocok dengan tujuan penggunaanbody lotion, milsalnya jika body lotion mengandung tingkatkeasaman yang ditinggi maka pilihnya emulsifier yang tahan asam. Sama seperti surfactant maka emulsifier juga dibagi atas beberapatipe

Surfactant chemical class Typical generic example

AnionicCarboxylic acid SoapsCarboxylic acid ester Lactylate, PEG alkyl carboxylateSulfate acid ester Alkyl sulfate, Sulfated monoglycerideAmino acid amides Sarcosinate. Acylated peptides

CationicAmines PEG alkyl amineQuaternaries Tetraalkyl ammonium salts

AmphotericPhospate PhospolipidAmine derivative N-alkyl amino acids

NonionicAlcohol Fatty alcoholEther Alkoxylated fatty alcohol, PEG-phenol ethersEster Acyl sorbitant, PEG-derivative, Acyl glyceridePolymers PEG block polymers, PEG-silicone derivative

TIPE EMULSIFIER

EmulsifierRelation between HLB range and Surfactant applications

HLB Range Use

0-3 Anti foaming

4-6 W/O emulsifying agent

7-9 Wetting agent

8-18 O/W emulsifying agent

13-15 Detergent

10-18 Solubilizing agent

Sensorial performances

Heaviness

2,53

3,53,74

4,75

5,96

0 10

Dimethicone

Very high MW hydr.Polydecenemineral oil

Medium-high MWhydr. Polydecene2 Octyl dodecanol

Medium MW hydr.PolydeceneIPM

Low MW hydr.PolydeceneIsohexadecane

greasy feel

11,6

23,1

3,54

4,45

9

0 10

castor oil

sweet almond oil

nexbase2008FG

olive oil

panalaneL14E

nexbase2006FG

nexbase2004FG-vaseline oilnexbase2002CG

arlamol HD

High MWhydr. polydecene

medium MWhydr. polydecene

medium MWhydr. polydecene

Low MWhydr. polydecene

Mineral oil

isohexadecane

Common oil (CTFA name) Polarity index Common oil (CTFA name) Polarity index

Non Polar Polar

Isoparafin (C12-C14 grade) 53 Isopropyl stearate 21.9

Squalene 46.2 Caprylic/Capric triglyceride 21.3

Isohexadecane 43.8 Isopropyl isostearate 21.2

Mineral Oil 43.7 Jojoba oil 20.8

Cyclomethicone 20.6

Polar Peanut oil 20.5

Cetostearyl octanoate (Purcellin Oil) 28.6 Almond oil 20.3

Dimetichone 26.6 Sunflower seed oil 19.3

Isopropyl palmitate 25.2 Decyl oleate 18.7

Octyl dodecanol 24.8 Avocado Oil 18.3

Dioctyladipate 24.5 Olive oil 16.9

Isopropyl myristate 24.2 Castor oil 13.7

Octyl Palmitate 23.1 Calendula oil 11.1

Hexamethyl disiloxane 22.7 Wheat germ oil 8.3

POLARITY BEBERAPA OIL

Ingredients Chemical name % FunctionsOIL PHASEPolar/Non-polar type Mineral oil, Isopropyl

Merystate, olive oil total 10% Oil BaseFatty alcohol Cetyl alcohol 0.5-1 Viscosity modifierFatty acids Stearic acid 0-3 Viscosity modifierEmulsifier PEG-100 sterate and

glycerol stearate 2-5 EmulsifierOil soluble active Vitamine, vegatable

extract, UV-Filter, dll qs ActiveTexture modifier Dimethicone 1-5 anti lengket, silky feelAntioxidant Vitamin E atau BHT qsPerfume qsWATER PHASEHumectant Gliserin, PG 2-5 menjaga kelembabanViscosity stabiliser Carbopol 0.1-0.3Water soluble active

Vitamine, plant extract, dll qs ActiveWater to 100Preservative qs

CONTOH FORMULA BODY LOTION

SOAP

Merupakan sediaan kosmetika yang digunakan untuk membersihkan badan dari pengotor. Secara umum soap dibagi atas1.Conventional Soap (soap)2.Soap based surfactan

Hal dasar yang membedakan kedua sabun diatas adalah sumbersabunnya. Conventional soap didapatkan dari reaksi penyabunan antaraNaOH atau KOH dengan fatty alcohol/fatty acid atau vegatable oil seperticoconut, palm, castor, olive,dll. Sabun yang dihasilkan dengan cara inimempunyai keuntungan yakni derajat busanya yang banyak tapimempunyai tingkat iritasi yang cukup tinggi. Soap based surfactant adalahsabun yang dibuat berdasarkan penggunaan surfactant sebagai basesabunnya. Sabunnya mempunyai busa yang kurang banyak dibandingkansoap base tapi tingkat iritasinya lebih rendah

Syarat-syarat umum-Mempunyai daya bersih yang bagus-Tidak menyebabkan kulit jadi kering-Tidak menyebabkan iriitasi pada kulit atau aman digunakan

Syarat-syarat estetika- Berbusa banyak-Aroma dan warna yang sesuai dan menarik-Enak saat digunakan

Syarat formulasi-Stabil dalam penyimpanan dan saat dijual-Sebaiknya mempunyai pH 7 atau sedikit basa

Soap based surfactantKebanyakan berbentuk cairan atau larutan kental bening atau translucence. Biasanya dikenal sebagai body shower, body wash atau sabun cair

Ingredients utama1.Surfactant2.Viscosity modifier

Ingredients tambahan1.Pewarna2.Pewangi3.Pengawet4.dll

Ingredients active1. Zat yang bersifat sebagai antiseptik2. Deodorant3.dll

Soap based surfactantUmunya sediaannya berbentuk larutan seperti halnya shampo

Surfactant

Chemistry of surfactantsFrom the molecular structural point of view, they are dividedinto 2 groups

1. Compunds having one or more hydrophobic and hydrophilicgroups with a general molecular weight several hundreds.Hydrophobic groups containg 8 to 22 carbon atoms. Typicalhydrophilic groups are Anionic, Cationic, Amphoteric,Nonionic

2. Oligomers having a molecular weight of thousands to tens ofthousands which are usually prepared by polymerization ofseveral to hundreds of monomer units.

SurfactantAnionicAll members or this class of surfactant carry negative charge onthe hydrophilic group. As a group, anionics are not compatiblewith cationic amphiphiles. Carboxylate COONa+ Sulfate -OSO3-Na+Phosphonate -PO32-2Na+ Sulfonate -SO3-Na+

TaurateIsethionateAlkylaryl SulfonateOlefin SulfonateSulfosuccinate

Acylated Amino Acids and PeptidesSarcosinate

SurfactantCationicHydrophilic head carries a possitive charge. This group ofsurfactants includes a variety of amines since neutralization ofthe amino group with an acid yield a positively chargeampholyte

Amine (Alkylamine) -CNH3+Quaternary ammonium compund -N+(CH3)3Alkoxylated aminesAlkylimidazolinesPyridinium saltSulfonium salt -S+(CH3)2Cl-

Surfactant

AmphotericIn this group there are two charges possitive and negative in a molecule surfactant.

Amino acid -NHC2H4COOHBetaine -N(CH3)2C2H4SO3Aminosulfate -NHC2H4OSO3Sulfobetaine -N(CH3)2C2H4SO3

Surfactant

NonionicAmphiphiles that possess no charges at pH normallyencoutered in cosmetics. Their water solubility depends onthe presence of polar head groups, primarily hydroxyl orether.AlcoholsAlkanolamidesAmine OxideEsters

GlyceridesEthoxylated GlyceridesPolygluceryl estersCarbohydrate estersEthoxylated carboxylyx acidsPhosphoric acid triester

Surfactant

Nonionic

EthersEthoxylated alcoholEthoxylated (Propoxylated) polysiloxanesEthoxylated polypropylene oxide etherAlkyl glycoside

2. Viscosity modifier

Digunakan untuk memberikan kekentalan pada sediaan sabun cair-Golongan Cellulose (Metolose, HPMC,) digunakan sekitar 0.2 1%-Golongan Polimer (Acrylate copolimer, Carbopol 2020) digunakan sekitar 0.2 1%- Golongan surfactant modified (Cocomide DEA, Comparland KDT) digunakan sekitar 1-3 %- Garam (NaCl) digunakan sekitar 0.2 3%

Body wash

No Ingredient name Trade name% of

usage function1 Water Water ad 100 Base

2 Methylcellulose Metochel 1 Thickener

3 Sodium laureth Sulphate (70%) Texapon N70 25 Main Surfactant

4 Coco betaine Dehyton HB 5Co surfactant, foam booster

5 Cocamide DEA Comparland KDT 4Co surfactant, viscosity modifier

6 NaCl NaCl 1 Viscosity modifier7 Preservative qs8 Coloring agent qs9 pf qs

BODY COLOGNE

Merupakan sediaan yang ditujukan untuk memberikankesegaran dan keharuman pada tubuh/badan. Bodycologne umumnya berbentuk cairan atau larutan jernihdan disemprotkan (body spray) atau dipercikkan (bodysplash) ketubuh.

Selain mengandung perfum sebagai ingredient utama, bodycologne kadang-kadang mengandung bahan aktif yangbersifat sebagai antiperspirant atau deodorant, pelembab dll.

BODY COLOGNE

Syarat umum-Larutan jernih-Tidak menyebabkan iritasi pada kulit-Memberikan aroma yang enak

Syarat estetika-Tidak memberikan kesan lengket- Aroma dan warna yang sesuai dan menarik- Memberikan kesan segar pada kulit

Syarat formulasi- Stabil (tidak menjadi keruh selama penyimpanan dan penjualan)- Sebaiknya mempunyai pH 4-7

TINJAUAN FORMULASIKarena body cologne merupakan larutan, maka formulasinya sangat sederhana dimana semua bahan yang dimasukkan kedalam pelarut harus terlarut sempurna. Bisa juga menambahkan solubiliser untuk meningkatkan kelarutan

KOMPOSISI

1. Pelarut (biasa air atau dicampur dengan alkohol)2. Humectan3. pH adjuster (asam atau basa), jika perlu4. Solubiliser5. Active6. Pengawet (jika diperlukan)7. Estetika warna, parfum

BODY COLOGNE

Part Komposisi Ingredient %A Pelarut Aquadem ad 100

Humectant PG 2

Aktive Ekstrak anggur 1

B Solubiliser Tween 20 0.2

Pelarut Alkohol50

Fragrance Pf 5

Pewarna Zat Warna qs

CONTOH FORMULASI BODY COLOGNE

BODY SCRUB

Merupakan sediaan berbentuk cream kental yang umumnya dihasilkan dari proses saponifikasi dari fatty acid (biasanya asam stearat) dengan basa (TEA, NaOH, KOH) ditambah dengan butiran-butiran halus yang berfungsi sebagai scrub.

Secara umum ada 2 fungsi yang harus dimiliki oleh body scrub1. Daya bersih yang didapatkan dari base lulur sendiri atau dengan

tambahan co-surfactant untuk meningkatkan daya bersih2. Daya exfoliating yang didapatkan dari scrub yang digunakan.

Umumnya ada 2 jenis scrub yakni alami (biji apricot, jagung, batu apung, dll) dan sintetis (PE, silica, dll). Daya exfoliating scrub ditentukan oleh ukuran scrub. Semakin kecil ukuran scrub maka semakin kurang terasa pada penggunaannya tapi semakin tinggi daya exfoliatingnya

BODY SCRUB

Syarat umum- Daya bersih yang bagus- Daya exfoliating yang bagus- Tidak kasar- Tidak membuat kulit kering

Syarat estetika- Spreading bagus- Pick up bagus - Aroma, warna, performance menarik

Syarat formulasi- Stabil (tidak pecah selama penyimpanan)- Sebaiknya mempunyai pH < 7

Komposisi

Utama:

Phase dalam (Internal)/ Phase discontinuous/Dispersed phase

Phase luar (External)/Phase Continuous

Zat pengemulsi (emulsifier) atau saponifikasi system

Bead (Scrub)

Tambahan:

Viscosity modifier (zat pengatur kekentalan)

Pengawet

Pewarna

Perfume

Zat aktif

BODY SCRUB

Ingredients Chemical name % FunctionsOIL PHASEPolar/Non-polar type Mineral oil, Isopropyl

Merystate, olive oil

Deodorants are substances applied to the body mainly toreduce body odor which is caused by the bacterial breakdownof perspiration.

Body odour develops when perspiration, which itself isodourless, is broken down by microorganisms. From thecomponents of the perspiration, sebum and dead skin cells,Gram-positive organisms in particular form substances whichsmell unpleasant.

Gram-positive bacteriaMicrococcus luteus Corynebacterium aquaticum Corynebacterium flavescens Corynebacterium callunae Corynebacterium nephredi

DEODORANT DAN ANTIPERSPIRANT

Antiperspirant An antiperspirant, as defined by the Department of Health and

Human Services in the final antiperspirant monograph published in 2003, reads as follows:A drug product applied topically that reduces the production of perspiration (sweat) at that site

There has always been some confusion in the industry that consumers do not always relate to the basic difference between antiperspirant and deodorant products.

Antiperspirants, because of their ability to reduce perspiration and thus diminish the medium that is a factor in the development of axillary odor, can also claim to be a deodorant.

However, because a deodorant product only reduces the body odor and does not reduce perspiration it can only be labeled as a deodorant

Regulation antiperspirant

In the United States an antiperspirant is categorized as an over-the-counter (OTC) drug product and therefore subject to regulations by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA).

In the European Common Market antiperspirants are considered to be cosmetic products and are therefore subject to the European Cosmetic Directive

Antiperspirant products in Japan are regulated and classified as quasi-drugs. A quasi-drug is an article used only for certain purposes that are specifically designated by the MHW (Ministry of Health and Welfare)

Body odor is primarily generated in the area under the arms where there is a high concentration of sweat glands. While sweat from these glands is initially odorless, it contains natural oils, called lipids, that provide a growth medium for bacteria living on the skin. These bacteria interact with the lipids, converting them into compounds that have a characteristic sweaty odor. Isovaleric acid, for example, is one chemical compound that gives sweat its smell.

Kelenjer keringat1. Ekrin- Berukuran kecil terletak di dermis atas- Cairannya encer- Terdpat diseluruh tubuh (telapak tangan, kaki dan dahi)- Muara langsung kepermukaan kulit

2. Apokrin-Ukuran besar terletak didermis bawah-Cairan kental, mengandung air, elektrolit, asam laktat, glukosa-pH 4-6.8-Terdapat diaksila, putting susu, daerah genital, saluran telinga luar-Didapat mikroorganisme----dekomposisi---bau-Sekresi dipengaruhi suhu panas, stress emosional


3. Kelenjer sebasea-Terdapat diseluruh tubuh kecuali telapak tangan dan kaki-Bermuara pada folikel rambut-Mengandung trigliserida, asam lemak bebas, squalane, wax ester, kolesterol-Dipengaruhi hormon androgen-Usia pubertas ---berfungsi aktif

There are two primary types of products used to control body odor.

1.Deodorants, reduce body odor by killing the odor-causing bacteria. These products do not affect the amount of perspiration the body produces.

2. Antiperspirants, inhibit the activity of sweat glands so less moisture is produced. In addition to avoiding unpleasant wetness, these products also decrease odor because there is less sweat for the bacteria to act upon.


Consumers want underarm products that meet their unique needs and lifestyles.

1. Form: roll-on, aerosol, pump spray, cream, gel, stick and wipes 2. Function: deodorant, antiperspirant, moisturization, non-staining, low

cost and easy-to-make 3. Feel: soft and dry to rich and nourishing, non-tacky and non-irritating

Antiperspirant Aluminium chloride, aluminium chlorohydrate, and aluminium-zirconiumcompounds, most notably Aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrex gly and Aluminium zirconium trichlorohydrex glycine

Deodorantscan be formulated with other, more persistent antimicrobials such as triclosan, or with metal chelant compounds that slow bacterial growth. Deodorants may contain perfume fragrances intended to mask the odor of perspiration. A popular alternative to modern commercial deodorants is ammonium alum, which is a common type of alum sold in crystal form


Stick

The bulk of the formulation consists of waxy or fatty materials that are gelled to form a solid stick. Common examples include stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, hydrogenated castor oil, and glyceryl stearate. These waxy materials are blended with lubricating oils and emollients such as cyclomethicone, which is a volatile silicone compound. These silicones are liquids at room temperature, but they quickly evaporate and are used because they leave the skin feeling smooth and dry. In addition, talc, starches, or other powders may be added to control stick consistency and to give the product a dry feel and a smooth payoff.

Formulation


Ingredient Phase A1. Cyclopentasiloxane & PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer 12 2. Cyclomethicone 8 3. Phenyl Trimethicone 2 4. Bis-Hydroxyethoxypropyl Dimethicone 2 5. Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil 1 Phase B6. Deionized Water 36.457. Water and Tritucum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Extract andSaccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract and Sodium Hyaluronate 1 8. Camelia HS 0.3 9. Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract (and) Alcohol 1 10. Water and Aluminum Sesquichlorohydrate 30 Phase C11. Triclosan 0.2 12. Dipropylene Glycol 5 Phase D13. Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl p-Cresol 0.05 14. Fragrance 1 Procedure1. In the main mixing vessel, add ingredients of phase A and mix.2. In a separate vessel, combine phase B ingredients in order.3. In a separate vessel, combine phase C ingredients and warm gently while stirring until clear.4. Add phase C to phase B while mixing.5. Begin rapid, turbulent mixing of phase A. Use a dual blade configuration.6. Add phase B / C to phase A very slowly using a seperatory funnel while maintaining turbulent mixing of phase A.7. After the addition is complete, mix for an additional 10 minutes.8. Reduce mixing speed and blend in phase D until uniform.

Emulsion

Thickening Agents In Cosmetics

Principles involved in Thickening

Stokes's law - is the basis of the falling-sphere viscometer, in which the fluid is stationary in a vertical glass tube. A sphere descends through the liquid. it reaches terminal velocity, which can be measured by the time it takes to pass two marks on the tube.

Thixiotropy - It is a property of certain gels which tend to flow on the account of stress applied on it.

Classification Of Thickening Agents

Lipid Thickeners- (Beeswax, Cetyl alcohol, Steryl alcohol )

Naturally Derived thickeners- (Modified Cellulose, Guar gum, Xanthan Gum, Gelatin )

Synthetic Thickeners- (Carbomers, Polyethylene Glycol)

Ionic Thickeners- (Salt)

Carbomers A family of Cross-Linked Acid Polymers

They are essential ingredients in Cosmetics and Pharmaceuticals

They are Excellent Rheology Modifiers

Carbopol Polymers They are High Mol.Wt Polyacrylic acids,

Cross-Linked with polyalkenylether

They provide Thickening with a wide range of flowproperties

ThickeningMechanism

Ingredient Weight % Function

Deionized Water 61.2 Diluent

PVP 2.5 Hair Settling Resin

Aminomethyl Propanol 0.30 Neutralizing Agent

CARBOPOL 0.5 Rheology Modifier

Wheat Protein 0.5 Conditioner

Methyl Paraben 0.5 Preservative

Ethanol 34.5 Solvent

Hair Styling GelFormulation

Hydroxy Ethyl Cellulose It is derived from cellulose

It is a non-ionic water soluble Polymer

It can 1) Thicken2) Bind3) Emulsify4) Form Films5) Retains Water

Salient Features OfH.E.C

Provides a smooth and silky feel to product

It has high ionic tolerance

It gives an extremely high clarity in gels

It offers good compatibility with surfactants

Wide range of viscosities can be achived with HEC

A purified cellulose is treated with NaOH to form a swollen alkali cellulose

This swollen alkali cellulose is treated with ethylene oxide to get a long chains of hydroxy ethyl cellulose

Physical Properties

Problems with HEC

CLOUDINESS tends to appear in clear solution in a short span of time

It gives a sticky feeling on the hand over a period of time.

It consists of 5% of volitile matter which is not accepted worldwide.

Ingredienta % weight

Gelling agent (HEC) 1

Humectant(Glycerine) 10-30

Abrasive(CaCO3) 15-40

Sweetner(Saccharin) 0.1-0.2

Flavour 1-1.5

Surface active agent 1-2

Presevative ,colour & Water qs

Toothpaste FormulationWith HEC

Slide Number 1Slide Number 2BODY LOTIONSlide Number 4Slide Number 5Slide Number 6Slide Number 7Slide Number 8Sensorial performancesSlide Number 10Slide Number 11Slide Number 12Slide Number 13SOAPSlide Number 15Slide Number 16Slide Number 17Slide Number 18Slide Number 19Slide Number 20Slide Number 21Slide Number 22Slide Number 23Slide Number 24Slide Number 25Slide Number 26Slide Number 27Slide Number 28Slide Number 29Slide Number 30Slide Number 31Slide Number 32Slide Number 33AntiperspirantRegulation antiperspirantSlide Number 36Slide Number 37Slide Number 38Slide Number 39Slide Number 40Slide Number 41Slide Number 42Slide Number 43Thickening Agents In CosmeticsSlide Number 45Slide Number 46Slide Number 47Slide Number 48Slide Number 49Slide Number 50Slide Number 51Slide Number 52Slide Number 53Slide Number 54Slide Number 55Slide Number 56Slide Number 57Slide Number 58Slide Number 59Slide Number 60Slide Number 61Slide Number 62Slide Number 63Slide Number 64Slide Number 65Slide Number 66

body care (rev 2015)

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